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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well spent some time looking online with little info. The manual warns you about the bulb being high voltage and to disconnect the ground and to remove the front bumper to replace the bulb.

I have taken my front bumper off several times and it is at least a 30 minute job. So I gave it a try without doing it. It turned out to be simple. The bulb for HID is D1S for OEM replacement

#1 disconnect the ground as they say.
#2 remember do not touch the bulb.
#3 remove the plastic inserts can't remember what they are called.
#4 for drivers side if you have a stock air box remove it.
#5 remove the rubber cap
#6 you will then feel this metal tab as pictured below, spread the two ends apart and then it will pop free
#6 pull out the connect, there is no lock and ease out the bulb being careful to not let the connector fall.

Install
#1 using gloves or be careful not to touch the bulb, slide the bulb in towards the housing and when it is almost in, attached the connector to the bulb.
#2 Place the clip on the hook which you can fee on the far side and then on the side closest to you push down and outward and you will feel it snap into place.
#3 Once in place double check the plug to make sure it was firmly inserted.
#4 install the rubber book and put you car back together.

After figuring it out it took ten minutes to do.



Here are the rest of the picshttp://s1200.photobucket.com/user/Toddsmith33/slideshow/HID Bulb repalcementhttp://www.challengertalk.com/forum...bed/slideshow/HID Bulb repalcement"></iframe>
 

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Thanks for the instructions. Does the lamp slide into the housing only one way? I saw from the pics "top" was shown. Also, how much did the lamp cost?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The bulb goes in only one way with the wiring connector to the bottom. As for cost to go with a direct oem replacement it cost 70 dollars in Canada but I have seen them online for cheap I just couldn't wait to order it.

It is a fine to drive with a burnt out headlight and I didn't want to ticket myself ;)
 

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Does anyone know where I could get a replacement retaining clip? I have misplaced mine. Chrysler says you have to buy the whole headlight assembly. Thanks.
 

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I replaced the D1S headlight bulb on the passenger-side of my 2012 Challenger RT, and it was a huge pain in the ass, which I will detail for those attempting to do this yourself, just so you know what you are getting into if you are planning on doing it yourself.
Suggestions: I would suggest using plastic surgeon gloves or some other glove that does NOT have any lose particles on it, i.e. talcum power. I would wear a long sleeve shirt so as to prevent contact of the new bulb with body oils on your arm as you are installing it into the headlight assembly. If you have big hands and big fingers, this job is NOT for you. Access to the bulb is difficult and clearances are tight inside the headlight assembly.

I have read several procedures for the D1S bulb replacement, 1 for the Challenger, 1 for the Charger and a couple other for Non-dodge Vehicles (I used the Challenger procedure, for it is accurate, but details are missing) They all say disconnect the negative cable from the battery. I did this, but I don’t know why. If you disconnect all electrical connectors from the headlight assembly, you are isolated, but maybe it has something to do with re-installing the new bulb and its ballast. So I disconnected the negative battery as told. I also placed the head light switch in the off position.

There is a protective rubber cover that has to be removed to access the D1S bulb. Be careful and do not drop it, like I did, for you will have to remove all sorts of plastic to retrieve it. There is a metal clip that holds the D1S bulb ballast in place. I would start with the tab closest to the fender. Pull the tab towards the fender, once that is lose, you have more access to loosen the other tab closest to the engine. On the engine side tab, move the tab in the direction of the engine. Once both tabs are lose, you will have to pull this clip straight out, for if you **** it, it will snag on the headlight assembly. It took me about 5 minutes to figure out how to get this out of the headlight assembly.

The only way to remove the D1S bulb is to grab hold of the connector clip close to the D1S ballast and pull straight out; I rocked it back and forth a little to get a feel of how much effort I would need. The (D1S ballast is surrounded by a plastic housing, so you cannot get your fingers on the D1S assembly and pull it out.) THERE ARE 3 ISSUES AT THIS POINT.

1. The connector cable will only come out of the headlight assembly about ¾”. The D1S bulb is about 2” long, so you have to remove the connector from the D1S assembly, before you can completely remove the D1S assembly from the headlight assembly.

2. The second issue is that the connector wants to pull itself back into the headlight assembly. I had to fish it our several times. (This is where big fingers will work against you.)

3. The other issue, is that there is a circular spring clip that is attached to the plastic base of the D1S bulb. No mention of this was in any of the procedures I read, and the only reason I know about it is that it was on the bulb when I removed it from the headlight assembly. If I had dipped the bulb down while I was removing the D1S assembly, the spring would have fallen inside the headlight assembly, and I would not have known about it, for no literature said anything about it.

I placed the spring over the mounting base new D1S bulb. I had to use my right hand to hold on to the connector and my left hand to hold on to the base of the D1S bulb. I then inserted the D1S assembly into the headlight assembly, just enough to allow me to put the connector on to the D1S ballast. (This was a huge pain in the ass, for you are trying not to hit the bulb on anything, while at the same time trying to force the connector onto the D1S assembly, all the time your hands are in an awkward position.) Once the connector was on, I pushed the D1S straight into the headlight assembly. I re-installed the clip, putting the side closest to the fender on first, so I would have more clearance to move the engine side clip. You can feel and hear when the clips attaches itself. Just to be sure, pull on the clip to make sure it is seated. Then install the rubber cover, connect the battery cable, and you should be good. The whole ordeal took me 45 minutes and a cut finger due to the sharp edges of the clip and the awkward way I had to reach into the headlight assembly to push the clip on to secure it.

I used a Sylvania (certified) 4300K bulb at $99 from Advance Auto Parts. There is no difference in light intensity or color when compared to the older headlight bulb. I know they say replace both bulbs at the same time, but it is expensive and a pain in the ass. There are China copies for $29 that will not last long and may damage your headlight assembly. If you read reviews, the cheap bulbs emit different light frequencies and release more heat that will damage your headlight assembly over time. You can read about this on-line.
 

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Thanks. Your post helped me a lot. I still made some mistakes. However I would like to point out a couple of problems I had.

Taking the bulb out proved pretty easy and the wiring harness seemed to be a bit longer than some mentioned but not by much. Well then I accidentally pushed the harness back into the light and could not feel it. I took a metal hanger and cut out a piece about 8 inches long and put a hook on one end. I was able to fish out the harness after about 3 tries. I would suggest to everyone that you put a sting or a tie wrap on it temporarily to help you keep it in reach. I actually used my "hook" that I made and let it hang on the harness to keep the harness out where it was easy to reach.

I was actually able to put the wiring harness on and then still manipulate the bulb into place but it did take two hands as wcmachmer mentioned.

I also dropped the little spring down to the plastic under cover. Good thing for long pickups. I think the light would be fine without it if you just had to put it back without the spring. It seems to fit tight when I tested it to see.

Putting the clip back on was a bit of a pain until I figured out what I was doing wrong. If you notice the clip has to slots. Those slots have to go back over the raised embossed area on the assembly. I could get one side and not the other. Pushing hard did seem to work. So I put the one side in place and pushed hard on the little tab at the bottom on the other side while also pushing hard on the high section of the clip. Finally I heard it go clip.

Those are just a couple of additional items to be aware of and could help you out.
 

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Have to say THANK YOU for this post! Without the good descriptions I never would have been able to change my headlight bulbs. Dodge should have made this much easier!

I replaced the D1S headlight bulb on the passenger-side of my 2012 Challenger RT, and it was a huge pain in the ass, which I will detail for those attempting to do this yourself, just so you know what you are getting into if you are planning on doing it yourself.
Suggestions: I would suggest using plastic surgeon gloves or some other glove that does NOT have any lose particles on it, i.e. talcum power. I would wear a long sleeve shirt so as to prevent contact of the new bulb with body oils on your arm as you are installing it into the headlight assembly. If you have big hands and big fingers, this job is NOT for you. Access to the bulb is difficult and clearances are tight inside the headlight assembly.

I have read several procedures for the D1S bulb replacement, 1 for the Challenger, 1 for the Charger and a couple other for Non-dodge Vehicles (I used the Challenger procedure, for it is accurate, but details are missing) They all say disconnect the negative cable from the battery. I did this, but I don’t know why. If you disconnect all electrical connectors from the headlight assembly, you are isolated, but maybe it has something to do with re-installing the new bulb and its ballast. So I disconnected the negative battery as told. I also placed the head light switch in the off position.

There is a protective rubber cover that has to be removed to access the D1S bulb. Be careful and do not drop it, like I did, for you will have to remove all sorts of plastic to retrieve it. There is a metal clip that holds the D1S bulb ballast in place. I would start with the tab closest to the fender. Pull the tab towards the fender, once that is lose, you have more access to loosen the other tab closest to the engine. On the engine side tab, move the tab in the direction of the engine. Once both tabs are lose, you will have to pull this clip straight out, for if you **** it, it will snag on the headlight assembly. It took me about 5 minutes to figure out how to get this out of the headlight assembly.

The only way to remove the D1S bulb is to grab hold of the connector clip close to the D1S ballast and pull straight out; I rocked it back and forth a little to get a feel of how much effort I would need. The (D1S ballast is surrounded by a plastic housing, so you cannot get your fingers on the D1S assembly and pull it out.) THERE ARE 3 ISSUES AT THIS POINT.

1. The connector cable will only come out of the headlight assembly about ¾”. The D1S bulb is about 2” long, so you have to remove the connector from the D1S assembly, before you can completely remove the D1S assembly from the headlight assembly.

2. The second issue is that the connector wants to pull itself back into the headlight assembly. I had to fish it our several times. (This is where big fingers will work against you.)

3. The other issue, is that there is a circular spring clip that is attached to the plastic base of the D1S bulb. No mention of this was in any of the procedures I read, and the only reason I know about it is that it was on the bulb when I removed it from the headlight assembly. If I had dipped the bulb down while I was removing the D1S assembly, the spring would have fallen inside the headlight assembly, and I would not have known about it, for no literature said anything about it.

I placed the spring over the mounting base new D1S bulb. I had to use my right hand to hold on to the connector and my left hand to hold on to the base of the D1S bulb. I then inserted the D1S assembly into the headlight assembly, just enough to allow me to put the connector on to the D1S ballast. (This was a huge pain in the ass, for you are trying not to hit the bulb on anything, while at the same time trying to force the connector onto the D1S assembly, all the time your hands are in an awkward position.) Once the connector was on, I pushed the D1S straight into the headlight assembly. I re-installed the clip, putting the side closest to the fender on first, so I would have more clearance to move the engine side clip. You can feel and hear when the clips attaches itself. Just to be sure, pull on the clip to make sure it is seated. Then install the rubber cover, connect the battery cable, and you should be good. The whole ordeal took me 45 minutes and a cut finger due to the sharp edges of the clip and the awkward way I had to reach into the headlight assembly to push the clip on to secure it.

I used a Sylvania (certified) 4300K bulb at $99 from Advance Auto Parts. There is no difference in light intensity or color when compared to the older headlight bulb. I know they say replace both bulbs at the same time, but it is expensive and a pain in the ass. There are China copies for $29 that will not last long and may damage your headlight assembly. If you read reviews, the cheap bulbs emit different light frequencies and release more heat that will damage your headlight assembly over time. You can read about this on-line.
 

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Thanks to everyone who contributed to this. All of you were dead on. This was a little easier than I expected only because the drivers side was a snap that I did in under 2 minutes. The passenger side was the pain because the bulb was stuck and would not come out. I took a small screw driver and just slid it between the bulb and housing. Don’t twist, just slide on both sides to loosen it in the holder and it will slide right out if you need to. The driver I just slid it out with no effort. Also, they are right about the small wires on the connector. Thanks to the heads up I used some masking tape to tape it to the side of the housing so I could work on the bulb without the connector being in the way or playing go fish inside the housing.
 

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Just stumbled on to this thread. Does anyone know if the New 2019 Challengers are still using D1S or are they D3S?
 

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