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Discussion Starter #1
Can anybody tell me how are the dash speakers wired, i will be using pac amp pro, aftermarket amp for the subs and aftermarket amp for the doors, deck, and dash..so iam not wanting to blow the dash, so should i put capacitors on, or do they have some sort of factory crossover already connected to the speaker wire....I have a non amp. 6 speaker no name brand system...Also in using amp pro... and say there are crossovers somewhere in the factory system, would amp pro cancel them out and will i have full range on all speakers...excluding sub channel of course
 

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The Pork Wagon (‘14 Cop Charger)
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Can anybody tell me how are the dash speakers wired, i will be using pac amp pro, aftermarket amp for the subs and aftermarket amp for the doors, deck, and dash..so iam not wanting to blow the dash, so should i put capacitors on, or do they have some sort of factory crossover already connected to the speaker wire....I have a non amp. 6 speaker no name brand system...Also in using amp pro... and say there are crossovers somewhere in the factory system, would amp pro cancel them out and will i have full range on all speakers...excluding sub channel of course
If your stock audio setup does not have a factory amp, you will not be able to use the PAC AmpPro device. It is meant to plug inline to the wiring that the amp uses. Without the amp, I do not believe there is a way to hook up the AmpPro.

Assuming you do have the base audio system, the dash speakers will be wired in parallel with the door speakers on the head-unit's front 2 channels. They have capacitors soldered onto their hot wires at the speaker. So if you are adding an amp to power them, they will still have the bass blockers inline on the speaker.
 

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If you still have the stock speakers I'd consider replacing them before trying to power them with an aftermarket amp. Aside from the fact they're cheap 15 watt speakers, they also have no tweeters so you probably won't get any kind of decent highs.

The PAC AP4-CH41 R.2 revision will work with un-amplified base 6 speaker models. You have to make sure you have the R.2 revision though. Also, you will have to have an aftermarket amp for all speakers because the factory radio will cease to output any power for speakers on the base 6 speaker system. Sounds like you have that covered though.

I decided to run new wires to my dash speakers so they can be controlled independently from the door speakers. My rear speakers are now disconnected.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited by Moderator)
If your stock audio setup does not have a factory amp, you will not be able to use the PAC AmpPro device. It is meant to plug inline to the wiring that the amp uses. Without the amp, I do not believe there is a way to hook up the AmpPro.

Assuming you do have the base audio system, the dash speakers will be wired in parallel with the door speakers on the head-unit's front 2 channels. They have capacitors soldered onto their hot wires at the speaker. So if you are adding an amp to power them, they will still have the bass blockers inline on the speaker.
R.2 version works with amplified and non amplified vehicles


Thanks for the reply...That pretty much answers my ?. Thx
 

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Discussion Starter #5
If you still have the stock speakers I'd consider replacing them before trying to power them with an aftermarket amp. Aside from the fact they're cheap 15 watt speakers, they also have no tweeters so you probably won't get any kind of decent highs.

The PAC AP4-CH41 R.2 revision will work with un-amplified base 6 speaker models. You have to make sure you have the R.2 revision though. Also, you will have to have an aftermarket amp for all speakers because the factory radio will cease to output any power for speakers on the base 6 speaker system. Sounds like you have that covered though.

I decided to run new wires to my dash speakers so they can be controlled independently from the door speakers. My rear speakers are now disconnected.
So just to be clear, if i run aftermarket dash speakers 4ohms and keep the same config. keeping them in parallel with doors...which will be 4ohms 6.9s, that should give me a 2ohm signal from amp rite? Do you think i will need to change the size of the capacitors fused to the factory dash wires...then running aftermarket 6.5s 2ohms on rear deck....That should give me the best sound or wattage from a 4channel amp keeping all channels 2ohms correct...In other words iam just trying to get the best sound without over extending dash speakers working with a 4 channel amp and still getting pretty much full range out door speaker as well, since there in parallel(rears will have own channel so no prob there)...My other choice was getting a 6 channel amp rewire dash indep. to amp and just put capacitors
 

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Discussion Starter #6
If you still have the stock speakers I'd consider replacing them before trying to power them with an aftermarket amp. Aside from the fact they're cheap 15 watt speakers, they also have no tweeters so you probably won't get any kind of decent highs.

The PAC AP4-CH41 R.2 revision will work with un-amplified base 6 speaker models. You have to make sure you have the R.2 revision though. Also, you will have to have an aftermarket amp for all speakers because the factory radio will cease to output any power for speakers on the base 6 speaker system. Sounds like you have that covered though.

I decided to run new wires to my dash speakers so they can be controlled independently from the door speakers. My rear speakers are now disconnected.
So just to be clear, if i run aftermarket dash speakers 4ohms and keep the same config. keeping them in parallel with doors...which will be 4ohms 6.9s, that should give me a 2ohm signal from amp rite? Do you think i will need to change the size of the capacitors fused to the factory dash wires...then running aftermarket 6.5s 2ohms on rear deck....That should give me the best sound or wattage from a 4channel amp keeping all channels 2ohms correct...In other words iam just trying to get the best sound without over extending dash speakers working with a 4 channel amp and still getting pretty much full range out door speaker as well, since there in parallel(rears will have own channel so no prob there)...My other choice was getting a 6 channel amp rewire dash indep. to amp and just put capacitors
 

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The factory dash speakers have a capacitor on the speaker itself. I forget the value of it so I'm not sure where they're crossed over. Almost any aftermarket 3.5 coax speaker will have something similar. With that said, 3.5's are usually still susceptible to being blown by feeding them bass so you'll want to engage the hi pass crossover on the amp so that nothing below 250hz or so gets to them. If you leave the dash speakers bridged with the 6x9's that makes it difficult to do. That's why I ran new wires to the dash speakers. They require different treatment than the door speakers.

You're correct regarding the 2ohm load.
 

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If you need pin-outs for the amp/radio go here.

Complete wiring diagrams and images showing how cabling is routed found here.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The factory dash speakers have a capacitor on the speaker itself. I forget the value of it so I'm not sure where they're crossed over. Almost any aftermarket 3.5 coax speaker will have something similar. With that said, 3.5's are usually still susceptible to being blown by feeding them bass so you'll want to engage the hi pass crossover on the amp so that nothing below 250hz or so gets to them. If you leave the dash speakers bridged with the 6x9's that makes it difficult to do. That's why I ran new wires to the dash speakers. They require different treatment than the door speakers.

You're correct regarding the 2ohm load.
Thats makes perfect sense...I take since you have rear speakers disconnected your running a 4 channel amp, which let you run the dash separately, which allows you to run a crossover and or highpass filter, I'am trying to utilize all 6 speakers, i was thinking the capacitor would do the job{and to avoid buying a 6c amp}, but running a highpass would take away from the 6x9s, so maybe the 6 channel amp, and keep everything on separate channels and highpass and capacitor the dash...Thx for the help
 

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So just to be clear, if i run aftermarket dash speakers 4ohms and keep the same config. keeping them in parallel with doors...which will be 4ohms 6.9s, that should give me a 2ohm signal from amp rite? Do you think i will need to change the size of the capacitors fused to the factory dash wires...then running aftermarket 6.5s 2ohms on rear deck....That should give me the best sound or wattage from a 4channel amp keeping all channels 2ohms correct...In other words iam just trying to get the best sound without over extending dash speakers working with a 4 channel amp and still getting pretty much full range out door speaker as well, since there in parallel(rears will have own channel so no prob there)...My other choice was getting a 6 channel amp rewire dash indep. to amp and just put capacitors
The factory dash speakers are 8 ohm and the door speakers are 4 ohm, giving each front a combined nominal impedance of 2.67 ohm. But what is more important about those specs is that the door speakers represent a larger portion of the load seen by the amplifying source. This means they will get a higher percentage of the wattage sent down that channel.

So while you don’t normally want to send too much to the 3.5” speakers in terms of power or bass, the reality is they will only see about 1/3 or 1/4 of the power and bass sent down that channel. The door speakers will get the majority of it, and they are better able to handle it usually, so that okay.

Any upgraded speakers should be spec’d with this in mind. If you replace the dash and doors with speakers of equal impedance (say 4 ohm and 4 ohm to equal 2 ohm at the amp), the ratio of power (and therefore bass) each speaker gets is now 50/50. The 3.5” speakers will get just as much power and bass as the doors. That can lead to problems at maximum, or near maximum, volume listening levels.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thats makes perfect sense...I take since you have rear speakers disconnected your running a 4 channel amp, which let you run the dash separately, which allows you to run a crossover and or highpass filter, I'am trying to utilize all 6 speakers, i was thinking the capacitor would do the job{and to avoid buying a 6c amp}, but running a highpass would take away from the 6x9s, so maybe the 6 channel amp, and keep everything on separate channels and highpass and capacitor the dash...Thx for the help
The factory dash speakers are 8 ohm and the door speakers are 4 ohm, giving each front a combined nominal impedance of 2.67 ohm. But what is more important about those specs is that the door speakers represent a larger portion of the load seen by the amplifying source. This means they will get a higher percentage of the wattage sent down that channel.

So while you don’t normally want to send too much to the 3.5” speakers in terms of power or bass, the reality is they will only see about 1/3 or 1/4 of the power and bass sent down that channel. The door speakers will get the majority of it, and they are better able to handle it usually, so that okay.

Any upgraded speakers should be spec’d with this in mind. If you replace the dash and doors with speakers of equal impedance (say 4 ohm and 4 ohm to equal 2 ohm at the amp), the ratio of power (and therefore bass) each speaker gets is now 50/50. The 3.5” speakers will get just as much power and bass as the doors. That can lead to problems at maximum, or near maximum, volume listening levels.
Understood..Since i already have a 4 channel amp, and yes iam replacing all speakers, gonna use approp. capacitor(Bassblocker), if not satified, then ill get a 6 channel amp and run each set of speakers on its on channel, run new dash wires and crossover or highpass as necc...Thx
 

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Nuke is right.

One more thing to add is you really want to be able to band pass the mid bass speakers in the doors. Before I installed a DSP I was constantly having issues with the mid bass speakers stepping on the subwoofer. It was hard to dial the sub in unless I low passed it way to low to be effective. I was looking for a new 5 channel amp that had high, low, and band pass crossovers but I found a good deal on an old DSP so I just went with that instead.

Something to think about when you decide to amp the front speakers separately from each other.
 

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Just a heads-up - if you are looking for relatively low-cost, but good-sounding replacement speakers, check out the Kenwood KFC-XP6903 component set. They come with a 6x9 midbass speaker and a 3.5 coaxial. They run a little over $200 for the set. Then even include in-line crossovers for between the door/dash speakers if you want to run them off the same amp channel.

These speakers sound much better than their price. They get great reviews from everyone that tries them. I originally had Infinity Reference speakers and I MUCH preferred the Kenwoods.

Just a recommendation. :)
 

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Just a heads-up - if you are looking for relatively low-cost, but good-sounding replacement speakers, check out the Kenwood KFC-XP6903 component set. They come with a 6x9 midbass speaker and a 3.5 coaxial. They run a little over $200 for the set. Then even include in-line crossovers for between the door/dash speakers if you want to run them off the same amp channel.

These speakers sound much better than their price. They get great reviews from everyone that tries them. I originally had Infinity Reference speakers and I MUCH preferred the Kenwoods.

Just a recommendation. :)
Thanks for the info...as i am actively looking ...will check them out...Kenwood has never let me down!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Nuke is right.

One more thing to add is you really want to be able to band pass the mid bass speakers in the doors. Before I installed a DSP I was constantly having issues with the mid bass speakers stepping on the subwoofer. It was hard to dial the sub in unless I low passed it way to low to be effective. I was looking for a new 5 channel amp that had high, low, and band pass crossovers but I found a good deal on an old DSP so I just went with that instead.

Something to think about when you decide to amp the front speakers separately from each other.
Yea the amp i have have those filters..Iam still on the fense if iam going to go with another amp, but will make sure i have those features..what would you recommend for a 6 channel amp on a budget...lol
 

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Please don't confuse DC resistance with AC impedance. Placing a capacitor in series with a high frequency driver blocks DC, but passes AC. The load on the head unit would be the DC resistance of the low frequency driver only. Impedance matching balances sensitivity on speakers that have the same AC impedance. If you choose an 8 ohm impedance high frequency driver w/ cap with a 4 ohm impedance low frequency driver, the DC resistance is low driver only, and high frequency sensitivity is reduced. It's when you omit the cap on the high frequency driver (not recommended) that DC load increases.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
If understand that if i run a 4ohm mid and a 4ohm tweet in paralell i will get a 2ohm signal...But if i use a 2way passive crossover(audiopipe) is it the same as running them in paralell, and will i still get a 2ohm signal...or will the crossover keep both a 4 ohm's
 

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The Pork Wagon (‘14 Cop Charger)
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If understand that if i run a 4ohm mid and a 4ohm tweet in paralell i will get a 2ohm signal...But if i use a 2way passive crossover(audiopipe) is it the same as running them in paralell, and will i still get a 2ohm signal...or will the crossover keep both a 4 ohm's
The wires between the door and dash speakers are already wired in parallel, the crossover won’t change that. Just wire it in with the tweeters and you are good to go.
 
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The wires between the door and dash speakers are already wired in parallel, the crossover won’t change that. Just wire it in with the tweeters and you are good to go.
Thx. wasn't sure, to close to install to mess things up now...lol.
 
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