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Hello Guys,


I'm serious about purchasing a Dodge Challenger. New or used, preferably new if I can get the right deal. Currently drive a Dodge Ram 2500 and a 2014 Civic Si. I will be selling my Civic Si private sale to get the most out of it and use that money as a down payment for the Challenger.


Interested in a newer gen preferably, with the newer tail lights, I think 2015 and newer right? 6.4 liter 392, and manual transmission. Prefer black color and prefer leather interior.

What is your experience with these cars? Any factory recalls? Defects? Things you wish were different about the car? Problems? Reliability? I've been watching several youtube reviews, reading on forums, I absolutely love the body of the car and power and sound of the exhaust (aftermarket). I'm ready to get rid of this Civic Si and step into an American modern muscle car. Your input would be very much appreciated.

As for package, well I'm not too familiar with them all. I did look them up on Dodge website. Scat pack seems to be popular, I just want to make sure I get the 6.4 liter and stick shift and leather.


Thank you for your input!
 

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The Uconnect can be a bit buggy but I don't think that would stop me from buying again. and their seems to be a lot of water pumps leaking or with bearings going out fairly early and the dealers telling the owners the water pumps are on national back order. The only problem I have with my 2016 Scat Pack is the loss of the engine sport mode after a forced Uconnect update last summer. I am still waiting on a software patch to fix it. I am hoping it is released by spring. So far I have been very happy with My Challengers I also bought a Challenger GT for a DD and would not even consider trading ether one for something else.
 

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Hello Guys,


I'm serious about purchasing a Dodge Challenger. New or used, preferably new if I can get the right deal. Currently drive a Dodge Ram 2500 and a 2014 Civic Si. I will be selling my Civic Si private sale to get the most out of it and use that money as a down payment for the Challenger.


Interested in a newer gen preferably, with the newer tail lights, I think 2015 and newer right? 6.4 liter 392, and manual transmission. Prefer black color and prefer leather interior.

What is your experience with these cars? Any factory recalls? Defects? Things you wish were different about the car? Problems? Reliability? I've been watching several youtube reviews, reading on forums, I absolutely love the body of the car and power and sound of the exhaust (aftermarket). I'm ready to get rid of this Civic Si and step into an American modern muscle car. Your input would be very much appreciated.

As for package, well I'm not too familiar with them all. I did look them up on Dodge website. Scat pack seems to be popular, I just want to make sure I get the 6.4 liter and stick shift and leather.


Thank you for your input!
Look out for panel alignment issues on the trunk, the door, paint defects. If you take a close look maybe with a LED flashlight you'll probably find some paint defects. I know it's just a production car, but still a pain to deal with since I got mine this past October
 

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The Uconnect can be a bit buggy but I don't think that would stop me from buying again. and their seems to bee a lot of water pumps leaking or with bearings going out fairly early and the dealers telling the owners the water pumps are on national back order. The only problem I have with my 2016 Scat Pack is the loss of the engine sport mode after a forced Uconnect update last summer. I am still waiting on a software patch to fix it. I am hoping it is released by spring. So far I have been very happy with My Challengers I also bought a Challenger GT for a DD and would not even consider trading ether one for something else.


Thank you for sharing that. I have Uconnect on my 2015 Ram 2500 Laramie and have had no issues, so it may a Challenger thing and not all Uconnect.

Water pumps and wheel bearings going out prematurely? Have you had any of those issues? Any other known electronic failure issues? I'm looking at 2015-2018 models, most likely avoiding the 2018s to get a better deal hopefully on a 2017.
 

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Look out for panel alignment issues on the trunk, the door, paint defects. If you take a close look maybe with a LED flashlight you'll probably find some paint defects. I know it's just a production car, but still a pain to deal with since I got mine this past October

Wow really? Panels being misaligned from factory? Wow, thank you for pointing that out. Yeah my Ram 2500 came with a few paint flaws from dealer that I didn't spot the day I took it home. They buffed them out though, but yeah, a pain to deal with having to go back and forth and driving a loaner when you just bought the car too.
 

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I don't know about any wheel bearing problems I was saying that the bearings in the water pumps have been known to go bad fairly early I don't know if it is due to poor quality in general or a batch of bad parts. I only have just over 5,000 miles on my Scat Pack its a fair weather fun car only and I have 11,200 miles on my GT 3.6L AWD daily driver I got the GT in March of 2017 and the Scat Pack in March of 2016 and the GT already has more than double the miles of the Scat Pack.
 

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I've got 28,000 miles on my 2016 SP and have had no problems with it. Sure you will find minor panel alignment flaws if you look hard enough but let's be real these are production cars and it's not like it's way off or anything. Most you have to look hard to see. Common one that is visible is the taillights but those can be adjusted. I'm very happy with my car and it's a blast to drive.

Sent from my SM-S975L using Tapatalk
 

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I agree, just give the car a good looking-over to make sure it's fine, likely it will be, and enjoy that big-block horsepower and torque! I have had my 2015 Scat Pack for over 3 years now and still look forward to getting in it and driving!

I would just recommend driving an automatic to see if you like it. It sure is faster and easier to drive fast and keep the engine at or above 4k rpms - which is where this motor really gets fun!
 

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Ordered a '16 in the Fall of '15. 21k(s)miles on it so far, and it's been a great car. Zero issues.


Most fun that I've ever had with a "stock" ride!
 

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I can tell you that certain 2015s have a factory defect with the radiator. If you want to browse a list of known issues, the best place to look is over in the problems section of the forum. You'll find the Uconnect disaster there along with the radiator problem, panel fitment, etc.

All of that said, every manufacturer has issues. I would measure them by how they solve problems when problems arise.
 

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Just got my 2018 Challenger R/T Scat Pack Dec. 17, 2017. Have not quite 1300 miles on it so far.

Too soon for any defects or issues to appear. Well, they can appear at mile 1 or any mile after that but so far nothing has appeared.

My first comment/observation is the car is "huge". My previous cars were a 2003 Porsche 996 Turbo and a 2002 Porsche Boxster. Both cars are kind of "small" and easy to park. With the Challenger I'm finding it a bit of an effort sometimes to find a suitable parking space.

Maybe with your pick up truck the Challenger won't seem so big. But I suspect you'll miss the smaller Civic Si. (For my grocery getter, primary commuter car, Dec. 27, 2017 I bought a 2018 Mini John Cooper Works Hardtop 2-door with a 6-speed manual. The JCW is easy to park, nimble in traffic, no trouble at all in tight spaces and can hold its own on the highway.)

I got the 8-speed automatic. At a more distant dealer -- around 30/40 miles more distant -- there was a 6-speed manual available almost the twin of the car I did buy but a test ride/drive had me satisfied the auto was the way to go and I bought the automatic equipped car without even bothering to test drive the manual.

The automatic acts to cushion the drivetrain from the engine and likewise cushions the engine from the drivetrain. The auto has a manual shift mode where one can use the shifter to up or down shift or use the paddles on the steering wheel to up or down shift. I have gotten into the habit of mostly using the paddles.

I make little to no use of uConnect so I have nothing to report in that regard. I like the Performance Pages with the ability to create a display of coolant temperature, oil temperature, oil pressure, and battery voltage.

With the automatic I got remote start. I like that. The vehicle in the blind spot detection is nice. Half the state of CA is in my car's blind spots. Dual auto climate control is nice. Heated seats and steering wheel is nice. Didn't think much of this until one day I came out to the car and got in and after the engine was running noticed the seat cushion getting warm and the steering wheel getting warm. Learned that if the outside temperature gets 40F or colder these are turned on automatically. Nice.

Negatives? Well, I've already mentioned the size. About the only other thing -- and my passengers have noticed this too -- is the inside door handles are located in a rather awkward location. I find myself and I watch passengers too fumbling to find the handle to open the door.

Gas mileage ain't bad. Doing a bit better in this regard than my Turbo. But the Challenger is my "pleasure" car. So my 300 mile a week commute will be handled by the JCW, which gets around 10mpg better mileage than the Challenger. With the JCW's 11.3 gallon fuel tank I think I can easily go a week between fill ups. When I used my Turbo for this commute I was filling up several times a week.

Have to wait and see about reliabilty. I expect it will be ok although I worry about all the electronics.

I don't thrash my cars so I expect the Challenger engine/drivetrain to last a long time. (160K miles on my Turbo, 320K+ miles on my Boxster with no major engine or drivetrain issues, not even a clutch.)

Consumables should be reasonable. Tire life with my Porsches was pretty good and as long as I behave I expect to get good tire life from the Challenger's 20 inchers.

Brake component life was good. I managed 120K miles out of the Turbo's front brakes and at 160K miles the rear brakes were still good. (Oh, cast iron brakes, not those PCCB's...)

Mainly it will be oil/filter service every 5K miles or 6 months, which ever comes first, air filters, plugs, and tranny/diff fluid services. Oh and a brake fluid flush/bleed every 2 years. All but the tranny/diff fluid services I can do myself if I want to but will probably have them done at the dealer as I just don't have a lot of spare time.
 

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The only issue I had on my 2016 SPS was the water pump went bad at like 25k miles. It was fixed in two days. Once in a blue moon the uconnect would freeze up but again I think it happened 2-3 times in over 2 years. My biggest gripe is, I wish the sheetmetal was thicker. I think if you look at it too hard it'll get a dent LOL...
 

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Uconnect has definitely been an issue since Panasonic took over production in 2017. No issues with uconnect on previous vehicles I had. My 2017 SRT had to have the head unit replaced after an update fried it. Since being replaced it has worked flawlessly. Also, had to have the rear diff replaced at 500 miles for excessive noise. Ok for about 800 miles but is starting to make noise again. Will continue to keep an eye on it. Overall, even with the issues and 17 days of down time waiting for new head unit, the car is a blast.
 

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Picked up a 2015 SP last year, great car overall. As others have said, some body panels are slightly misaligned (hood) but I wouldn't have noticed if I wasn't looking. I haven't had any Uconnect issues. Only real complaint I have (besides the dash creaking when it's cold) is the active exhaust squeak, so be sure to check for that. You can hear it coming from the rear by lightly pressing and releasing the throttle. A small squeak or chirping sound would occur if you have a faulty active exhaust value. If youre in a parking garage or driving by some cars it's easier to hear the sound echo. There are some aftermarket kits that allow you to "delete" the active exhaust system, if you want to go that route, however. I'm currently unaware if there is a do it yourself fix outside of that.

As another poster said above, maybe this wouldn't be such a big deal if my service center handled things appropriately. The car is still under warranty, and in a ride along the service tech has confirmed he hears the sound but the service center refuses to do anything until it gets worse, even with FSA involved.
 

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I have a 2014 392 SRT Core and really enjoy it. Had a 2012 SRT 392 before it and loved that too. Solid drivers, very comfortable, great vehicles overall. The only downside I would say - and this is really only if you plan to do any aftermarket work to the car - is the bottom end on the motor. I have a Whipple 2.9L S/C on my 2014 and currently have it set to 580rwhp. They say going more than 600-610rwhp and you're in jeopardy of blowing the motor as the stock pistons and rods can't handle more than that. From my local research (Boise, ID) it's $6k+ plus for new pistons, rods, block work which makes it really not worth it IMO. The new Mustangs have stronger internals and can add power for days, much more than the Challenger, which makes me jealous. Because of this I plan to move to a Hellcat at some point, which has the stronger internals right from the factory (but more $$ obviously). So again, this may not be a downside for everyone, lol, but something to consider if you plan to go forced induction at any point. Aside from that fantastic vehicles IMO.
 

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I've had my 16 SRT since August and it's the best car I've ever had. It'll take a while before I get used to the power, and how to handle it right. It still puts a huge smile on my face. I do love the various settings for street, sport and track. That makes the car so versatile. Also love the A8 automatic transmission. I get minimum 15 MPG in the city, usually 18, and 28 sometimes on the highway. Also love the accident warning system, adaptive cruise, steering wheel and bottons, paddle shifters, laguna leather interior, the look, trunk size, back seat size, dash options, straight pipes with active exhaust (sounds amazing), and the list goes on...

Downsides:
It's a heavy car (I like that though).
It's wide and long (I like that too).
The Uconnect system isn't awesome, works though.
You will peel out like crazy with the stock rear tires (get drag radials).
Visibility isn't the best out the back or back corners.
Front brake pads dust like crazy and make a mess (switch to Powerstops)
You will hit 100+ on the on ramps and get tickets!

Got it new from the dealer for $43k + tax / license. Fricken deal and half for almost 500hp, and it'll do 180+.
 

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I ordered my 2016 Scat Pack August 2015, got her the end of Oct. 2015 and she has 41500 miles now. I had two problems both were around 30000 miles and both were fixed under warranty. The first was the Radio stopped working and number two was the water pump. I love this car and will not give her up! She is a BEAST!
 

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When I bought my 16 SP I went to the dealer with my mind set on a manual...I went home with an Auto. The manual gear spacing is TERRIBLE and the clutch feels like driving an old truck.

Get the auto...you won't regret it at all. I even track mine and aside from oil and water temp issues when pushed hard, the auto works better than an SMG from an early 2000's M3.

Biggest issues I have had in my 6000 miles have been the OEM tires are absolute CRAP. Whoever at FCA decided to put 440 TW, 245/20s on a car with 500hp is a MORON. Sure fun to hoon, but amazing these cars don't litter the junkyards all mangled to heck.
 

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I have used the Dodge.com site and CarGurus to look for new 2016/17/18 Challenger 392's all across the country. There are some areas that will give deep discounts on Challengers ($8-12K off sticker) if you are willing to fly and pick up a vehicle a long way from your home. I did this with my 2009 R/T Classic both to get the right color/options and a better price than the dealers in Denver would give. Use the Zip Code function to change the search area in Dodge.com. Expand to 150 mile radius. Select a limited number of options (say 392 and Manual Transmission). The site will search dealer inventory and list all available vehicles. Use CarGurus to check if the dealer offers a lower price on that site than on the dealer site. Some list the same price, some have different prices listed. Then negotiate the best deal.
I found a black SRT 392 in Detroit area for $43K (2017 MY). You can also take the internet deal to a local dealer and see what he will do to match the price. This is sometimes effective, but in Denver the dealers add $500-600 processing fee (AKA additional dealer profit), so I tend to not buy any cars in Denver.
 
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