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OK, I stand corrected. I thought it was.
 

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Odometer mileage not showing up.

My odometer only shows when you open the door. Otherwise you can see trip A and trip B mileages. I can't seem to get the odometer to show the total miles while driving. anyone know a fix for this?
 

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My odometer only shows when you open the door. Otherwise you can see trip A and trip B mileages. I can't seem to get the odometer to show the total miles while driving. anyone know a fix for this?
You have to push the reset pin (in fuel gauge) this switches between odometer, Trip A / Trip B displays.

When the vehicle is off, and door is opened, odometer will display by default.
 

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Re-calibrating windshield wipers

My 2009 started having an issue where the windshield wipers would stop at a position 2-3 inches higher than normal when shutting them off. It was happening most of the time and required cycling the wipers until they stopped at the normal position. I decided to try and adjust/calibrate them by removing the relays for the wiper motor with the wipers in the full down position (I had to manually ease them down there). There are two wiper relays in the engine compartment fuse box, numbers 16 and 17. They are Omron 21911C, Mopar part #05269988AA . Relay 16 is for the wiper ON/OFF and relay 17 is for the wiper HIGH/LOW. First I tried pulling both of them with the power off, turned the key to ON, cycled the wiper switch, turned the key off, and reinstalled the relays. That had no effect. Next I started the engine, pulled the relays, cycled the wiper switch, reinstalled the relays, and after that the wipers worked fine (and have been for 3 days now). It might be possible reset the wipers by pulling only one of the relays and/or it may work with the key turned ON first without starting the engine. If it happens again I'll find out and update my post.
 

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**Oversight** Just seen this mentioned in your original post.

I learned the console lid slides forward. A plus for us 6M drivers who like to keep an elbow on the console and hand on the shifter.
 

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It's been a while since you posted and nobody replied.
I'm also looking for info on a 2011 and hope we're not out of luck.
On the 2011's you need to hold the arrow up button for 10 seconds and then the arrow down button for about 5 seconds until you see the EVIC menu change.
 

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On the steering wheel, if you press the arrow keys up, up, down, down, left, right, left, right and then hit okay, you get 30 extra horsepower!
 

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On the '16 R/T Scat Packs, at least mine, you can "see" when the MDS kicks in.


On the DID menu, arrow down and get the fuel economy meter to show. It looks like a regular analog gage, and has a black circle in the center of the gage.


In normal mode, when the MDS activates, a little green "4cyl" will appear in the center black circle. You now can see and hear when it's "activated"


So far, when I'm in "Sport" mode, the light doesn't appear, and I never can hear the MDS kick in either.


Stupid little thing, but at least there's visible knowledge that the MDS is activated. Found this out on a road trip playing around with the DID and the Normal/Sport modes on some long stretches.


YMMV on other models with the DID, but that's how my Scat Pack works, even though it's hardly ever in the Normal Mode! LOL
 

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miles per hour

did you know that some Challengers the odometer changes from mph to klm without touching anything on the dashboard? I have been to man websites and NO ANSWERS does anyone have an answer for me? if anyone has an answer please email me [email protected] thank you
 

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I parked my 09 challenger in the garage for the winter and did not start it for about 3 months. when i went to drive it again my battery was completely dead.
If your doors are locked use the regular key located inside your key fob. slide the release tab to the side to remove the key.
Luckily my windows were down a bit so i didn't have to worry about the windows lowering before the door could open. (not sure if that is a problem otherwise or not)
I had left my car unlocked because it was garaged, but i learned that if you put the key fob into the dash and try and start the car with a dead battery, the fob will get stuck and not come out until the car is started.
The battery is located in the trunk but the trunk release button is electronic.
I had to fold down the back seat and climb into the trunk to open it using the emergency release.
Now that i had my trunk open i was able to charge my battery.

If you plan to store the car for an extended amount of time. it might be a good idea to hook up a battery maintainer, it will prevent these problems, and extend the life of your battery.
If you will be away from electrical, you could use a solar maintainer.
note: there is two 12v accessory plugs in the car. the one next to the stereo is disconnected once the car is off. the one inside the center console remains active even of the car is off. use this one for the solar maintainer.
 

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The battery is located in the trunk but the trunk release button is electronic.
I had to fold down the back seat and climb into the trunk to open it using the emergency release.
Now that i had my trunk open i was able to charge my battery.

You don't have to get into the trunk, open the hood and the remote battery posts are on the passenger side, behind the fuse box.
 

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my 09 challenger has rusted through on the lower quarter panels, dodge decided to put some insulation between the splash guard and the quarter panel, i am assuming to reduce noise. however it absorbs moisture and promotes rust in that location..
i noticed my paint bubbling just above the trim on the quarter panels on both sides of the car. after removing everything i found that the entire quarter panel has some kind of foam inside it extending the entire length of the panel, mine happened to be completely saturated with moisture.
i squeezed it and water came out. this kind of foam is supposed to be closed cell foam to prevent that, but apparently is isnt. i also found that there is small holes in select locations at the bottom of the quarter panels at the lowest point to allow water to escape.. however mine were completely blocked with foam and some kind of factory glue that matches the color of the car.
I removed as much of this foam as possible but even after bodywork and paint its starting to rust again.

My tip is to remove that insulation behind the splash guards as soon as possible. and make sure that area is free of rust.
I tried the best i could but none of the body shops around here would guarantee their work. and quoted me about $1800.
 

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sxt plus

I purchased my 2013 sxt plus brand new and finally decided to add some new looks. I was hoping to get some opinions on how I did. Notice I painted that ugly alloy front grille black to match and did my own look on the gas cap. Please give some feedback. I have 43k now. I remove please donate level 4 units fused with silver blinding light or flames x10 silver minimum to alliance battles number 2 and 18 and yes It has been more responsive and it does work. Thank you, Cro
 

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Welcome to Challenegertalk Cronus. It looks great :thumbsup: Where are you from?

A Guy
 

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:zlurking:
 

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drive axles and drive line

I have a 2012 srt8 challenger I had a procharger installed with 9 psi boost making 659hp 590 ft/lbs torque at rear wheels. my question is will I need to change drive line and axles to keep from breaking anything?? Also wheel hop is bad heard of new rear stabilizer bars from speed logic that will help?? Any info u can give me would help!!!:nerd:
 

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Boosted 2014 R/T Shaker M6
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I have a 2012 srt8 challenger I had a procharger installed with 9 psi boost making 659hp 590 ft/lbs torque at rear wheels. my question is will I need to change drive line and axles to keep from breaking anything?? Also wheel hop is bad heard of new rear stabilizer bars from speed logic that will help?? Any info u can give me would help!!!:nerd:
Whiteline cradle bushing cured my wheel hop, and I am waiting for my DSS (been on order since December) driveshaft to arrive so I can add drag radials.
 
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