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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey guys, I know I’ve been gone for a long time but recently my car has started to fall apart. I’ve got 97K miles on it and replaced the oil pressure switch 2 months ago. Everything was fine until this morning when I got in it and started it. The oil pressure is fluctuating at idle and in motion and my AC is red hot. I haven’t checked the oil level yet but do you guys have any idea what’s wrong or what I can do to diagnose it? I’m about ready to wash my hands of the car all together.
Please let me know what you suggest.
Thanks
-Hell Ride.
 

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2020 AWD GoMango SXT Blacktop
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I think it would definitely be good to check the oil level. When is the last time the coolant was changed? I do not think it would be the thermostat. Given the AC is running hot, issues with the radiator or AC system could be potential culprits. Any codes come up?
 

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When was the last time that you changed the oil (my guess would be two months ago when you changed the sender, but that's just a guess)? Have you checked to see if the gauge is bad?

My brain automatically goes to trying to take things apart (mostly in my head before physically doing it) but my Wife has given me the best advice that I've heard (and I'm embarrassed that I didn't think of it first) and that is to try the easiest and simplest thing first and then go to the advanced stage of diagnosis. I'm not ashamed to say that this isn't the first time that she's been right either! :D

Does the AC cool at any time that you use it? If not, then it could also be low on refrigerant or have a leak. I believe that they can hook up a gauge and check high and low pressures to see where it should be. At least that's how our HVAC Guy does when he does our yearly check up. I'd think that it'd work the same way.

By the way xDisturbz, Welcome to the forum and Congratulations on your soon to be Challenger!
 

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Thanks @FreddyG ! It will be in my local rail yard in a week.

I am a firm believer in trying the simplest troubleshooting first. Nothing worse than discovering your oil or other fluids were bad AFTER taking apart the whole front end and finding no issues.
 
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Are the cooling fans working? Could be compressor is cycling causing the idle to go up and down making the oil pressure fluctuate
 

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2018 Challenger R/T Plus - Billet Clearcoat
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When was the last time that you changed the oil (my guess would be two months ago when you changed the sender, but that's just a guess)? Have you checked to see if the gauge is bad?

My brain automatically goes to trying to take things apart mostly in my head before physically doing it) but my Wife has given me the best advice that I've heard (and I'm embarrassed that I didn't think of it first) and that is to try the easiest and simplest thing first and then go to the advanced stage of diagnosis. I'm not ashamed to say that this isn't the first time that she's been right either! :D

Does the AC cool at any time that you use it? If not, then it could also be low on refrigerant or have a leak. I believe that they can hook up a gauge and check high and low pressures to see where it should be. At least that's how our HVAC Guy does when he does our yearly check up. I'd think that it'd work the same way.

By the way xDisturbz, Welcome to the forum and Congratulations on your soon to be Challenger!
Always do the easiest first. Why tear things apart if you don't have to? Hec the next step probably isn't the advanced stage.
That's how i solved my fuel evaporator leak code.
Gas cap first....didn't work so on to the next step. Turned out step 3 solved it. All three were easy and only cost around $80 for all.
 
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Thanks @FreddyG ! It will be in my local rail yard in a week.

I am a firm believer in trying the simplest troubleshooting first. Nothing worse than discovering your oil or other fluids were bad AFTER taking apart the whole front end and finding no issues.
You're Welcome! (y)

I'm also a firm believer in that now too because it's saved me more times than I can count.

Always do the easiest first. Why tear things apart of you don't have to? Hec the next step probably isn't the advanced stage.
That's how solved my fuel evaporator leak code.
Gas cap first....didn't work so on to the next step. Turned out step 3 solved it. All three were easy and only cost around $80 for all.
I'd like to blame my inquisitive mind being the reason that I jump off of the deep end, but I have since learned to control that way of thinking (most of the time :D).
 

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The car sat all afternoon and the air conditioning was cold when I got back in it and drove for over an hour but then I stopped to pick a few things up and when I turned the car back on, it was red hot again. Any ideas?
 

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Always do the easiest first. Why tear things apart if you don't have to? Hec the next step probably isn't the advanced stage.
That's how i solved my fuel evaporator leak code.
Gas cap first....didn't work so on to the next step. Turned out step 3 solved it. All three were easy and only cost around $80 for all.
Its easier to diagnose a car then just throw parts at it and hope for the best. Waste of $$ and time. The 3rd step probably wasnt expensive so you wasted $$ on the first two and the time. If you would have diaged it you would have learned more and not wasted time/$$


The car sat all afternoon and the air conditioning was cold when I got back in it and drove for over an hour but then I stopped to pick a few things up and when I turned the car back on, it was red hot again. Any ideas?
Was the car red hot or the ac? Clarification would help.
If its just the ac, does it have dual climate? If not you need to look at the compressor to see if its on and radiator fan is working while ac is on. If both of these answers are yes, then you need to look at the blend door motor. It controls the heat/cool operation.
Information helps without a car in front of us to help you. Hard to diag in a forum without input from your end also. Help us help you.
 

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Its easier to diagnose a car then just throw parts at it and hope for the best. Waste of $$ and time. The 3rd step probably wasnt expensive so you wasted $$ on the first two and the time. If you would have diaged it you would have learned more and not wasted time/$$



Was the car red hot or the ac? Clarification would help.
If its just the ac, does it have dual climate? If not you need to look at the compressor to see if its on and radiator fan is working while ac is on. If both of these answers are yes, then you need to look at the blend door motor. It controls the heat/cool operation.
Information helps without a car in front of us to help you. Hard to diag in a forum without input from your end also. Help us help you.
Lol, well the gas cap($15 OEM) took me five minutes after I got it in the mail. Second part was $23 and took me 20 minutes. Last part, $35, 10 minutes. I diagnosed it with the code which said it could be these certain things so I went with easiest and cheapest first.
There was a couple, little more involved things but didn't need to deal with it which was the fuel filler throat and and charcoal cannister.
And I did learn something...... What is involved with the evap system. I do research on everything before I buy it or work on it.
 

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I just checked but I received a recall notice to bring Ruby in to have her Evap canister checked and replaced if needed. You might want to check and see if that's applicable to your year.
 

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I just checked but I received a recall notice to bring Ruby in to have her Evap canister checked and replaced if needed. You might want to check and see if that's applicable to your year.
Thanks, I’ll look into it
 
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The car sat all afternoon and the air conditioning was cold when I got back in it and drove for over an hour but then I stopped to pick a few things up and when I turned the car back on, it was red hot again. Any ideas?
The A/C can remain cool for a while after shutdown. But heat soak will of course heat up everything. If I let my Hellcat sit out in the sun for a while when I get back in the car it takes a while for the A/C to blow cold air again.

There is a lot of heat in the various A/C system components that have get cool before the cool air reaches the cabin.

For suspected A/C problems the first thing would be to ensue the system has the required amount of refrigerant in it, there is no leak. It does the compressor no good to run it with the refrigerant level low. The refrigerant flowing through the system carries compressor oil which is vital for the proper operation of the compressor.

Then a check to ensure the system can produce the called for cold air under controlled conditions. Briefly this involves setting the A/C system controls to emit air via the center vents only, and start the engine and raise RPMs to something above idle, like 1K or thereabouts, then with the A/C temperature control set to max cool measure the center vent outlet air temperature and based on the ambient temperature check the factory temperature chart to see of the A/C is performing up to spec.

You can easily check that with the A/C off the radiator fan is off and then when you switch the A/C on the radiator fan comes on.

You can also check that the various controls actually work to direct the air to the center, floor, and dash vents, that the dual controls -- if present of course -- allow some reasonable control over the temperature of the air to each side of the cabin.

In some systems the air is routed through the heat exchanger to cool the air and remove moisture. Then the air can be routed at least a bit of it through the heater core to bring the air up to the temperature desired. This is done via air flaps/doors. If a door hangs open or sticks closed this can have the air temperature wrong. I believe the system is designed to fail "hot".
 
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