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I purchased non-oem parts and installed them. Could there be a compatibility issue? Does anyone have an experience like this? Any help is appreciated.
 

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Welcome to Challengertalk ;) You were able to confirm one of the front sensors was the issue? Not one of the two in the rear? Non OEM could be a problem, but I don't recall anyone mentioning that specifically

A Guy
 

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I purchased non-oem parts and installed them. Could there be a compatibility issue? Does anyone have an experience like this? Any help is appreciated.
The codes may be stale. If the CEL is dark (or if the MIL active bit is set) then the code or codes are not stale.

But if the codes are read with the CEL dark or if the MIL active bit not set any codes obtained are stale.

There can be pending codes which do not need a CEL to be valid. And there can even be permanent codes which can only be cleared by the engine controller after so many warm up cycles with the error not present.

If the CEL is on and you read one or more codes then clear them then the codes come right back that is because the error condition is still present.

In this case the problem could be as A Guy said the sensors are not factory. OEM even doesn't necessarily equate to OE (original equipment). Often a parts supplier will make a variety of sensors (in this context) some specifically purchased by the factory for installation on the factory floor and for stocking parts warehouses for dealer to tap for parts.

But other sensors while still made by the parts supplier (the OEM) are not the same as OE sensors and maybe different enough to trigger a CEL.

Have you tried clearing the code or codes and then just driving the car for a while? Even if the CEL is on after you clear the codes driving the car may be what is needed. Of course if the vehicle is manifesting any untoward behavior you do not want to continue to drive the car.
 

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The codes may be stale. If the CEL is dark (or if the MIL active bit is set) then the code or codes are not stale.

But if the codes are read with the CEL dark or if the MIL active bit not set any codes obtained are stale.

There can be pending codes which do not need a CEL to be valid. And there can even be permanent codes which can only be cleared by the engine controller after so many warm up cycles with the error not present.

If the CEL is on and you read one or more codes then clear them then the codes come right back that is because the error condition is still present.

In this case the problem could be as A Guy said the sensors are not factory. OEM even doesn't necessarily equate to OE (original equipment). Often a parts supplier will make a variety of sensors (in this context) some specifically purchased by the factory for installation on the factory floor and for stocking parts warehouses for dealer to tap for parts.

But other sensors while still made by the parts supplier (the OEM) are not the same as OE sensors and maybe different enough to trigger a CEL.

Have you tried clearing the code or codes and then just driving the car for a while? Even if the CEL is on after you clear the codes driving the car may be what is needed. Of course if the vehicle is manifesting any untoward behavior you do not want to continue to drive the car.



I have cleared the codes and they are still present. Even after putting about 500 miles on the car.
 

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I also contacted the local dealership and spoke with the service rep and he said it could be the control module that the sensors are going to.
To get confirmation of this will probably require bringing the car to the dealer service. The tech should have access to some Dodge specific diagnostics computer which can query the control module the speed sensors feed data to.

Odds are if the control module is the problem it will report one (or more) error codes, or run an internal health scan and return a status report.

One doesn't want to throw control modules at a symptom if he can avoid it. Control modules can be expensive and in some cases can require they be paired to the car which requires the tech's time and the Dodge diagnostic computer.

How did the initial symptom come about? Did the speed sensors just up and die out of the blue?
 

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I did have sensors go bad. And the sensor by itself did not throw an OBDII code.

The traction control light came on as well as the ABS light-- but no codes that I could read.

So maybe you did not have bad sensors, but something else (like the control board as the tech suggested).
 

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I had the dealer replace a front sensor. A couple hundred miles later, the code came back, this time for the OTHER front sensor. Dealer replaced the second one free even though the car was no longer under warranty. He did this, he said, because they usually replace sensors in pairs (in my case that would be both fronts). He said this could have triggered the computer even though the new sensor was OEM, and the old one seemed to be within the normal range. He said the problem was they didn't match. When I asked for more details, he said sometimes the computer sees the new sensor as being different than it's older counterpart on the other side of the car, thus causing it to throw a code. It's all greek to me, but that's what he said.
Not sure if that helps, but who knows?
 

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Thanks for coming back to let us know the fix, may help someone else

A Guy
 
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