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Discussion Starter #1
My budget is: 11k
I just turned 17 and had gotten my license, but never got a car because of coronavirus. I spent past weeks looking online and eventually fell in love with the way the car looks.

After looking online it looks like I can afford a 2010 Challenger SE for 10.5k. It has 60k miles on it. Is this a good deal?
Should I avoid anything over 100k miles. I dont want to get a Challenger with 120k miles and have repairs that I cant afford.
 

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Reminds me of when I was 17 and looking at 1970 Challengers and Cudas :) Sounds like you may have room to negotiate that price down a little more. I would make 60K miles my limit too.

Don’t fall in love with one car. If the deal doesn’t feel right, keep looking. Make sure to have the car inspected by an independent mechanic before pulling the trigger.
 

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The Pork Wagon (‘14 Cop Charger)
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Two things come to mind reading your post:

1) don’t put so much stock in the 100K mile thing. If you find a good used one with 120K miles that has a good CarFax, get it if you want it. 200K is when things start falling apart nowadays (its the new 100K).

2) Don’t get any V6 older than 2011. That’s when they started with the 3.6L and it’s a great engine. The 2010 and below V6 (3.5L) was a dog and has few mods available to upgrade. Just steer clear IMHO (I say that after having owned one too).
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Reminds me of when I was 17 and looking at 1970 Challengers and Cudas :) Sounds like you may have room to negotiate that price down a little more. I would make 60K miles my limit too.

Don’t fall in love with one car. If the deal doesn’t feel right, keep looking. Make sure to have the car inspected by an independent mechanic before pulling the trigger.
I'll keep looking for a good condition around 60k miles. Thank you!
 

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My budget is: 11k
I just turned 17 and had gotten my license, but never got a car because of coronavirus. I spent past weeks looking online and eventually fell in love with the way the car looks.

After looking online it looks like I can afford a 2010 Challenger SE for 10.5k. It has 60k miles on it. Is this a good deal?
Should I avoid anything over 100k miles. I dont want to get a Challenger with 120k miles and have repairs that I cant afford.
A rule of used car buying is to buy the best example you can find and afford.

I am not current on what's available but you need to be. Use various web sites to see what cars are available and their mileage and price.

Use www.kbb.com and www.nada.com to plug in the numbers of cars you "like" and see what the trade in values are. This gives you an idea of what the seller "has" in the car and thus can help you avoid overpaying for the car.

Be sure you give the used car a thorough check out.

Also, keep in mind besides just the car purchase price which blows up some when tax, title, license is factored in, also is followed by the insurance premium hit. My advice is take a VIN of a car you are considering and get an insurance quote based on the VIN.

Last but not least the general advice is to have in reserve 10% of a used car's purchase price to have for just in case. While you can be the best used car appraiser this side of Detroit it is not unknown for a perfectly fine used car to develop an issue shortly after it has changed hands. A water pump can go bad. Or a battery. Or something like that. Probably nothing major -- or you suck at used car check out -- but something. You can even puncture a tire and have to replace 2 tires.

So, at $11K you need at least a spare $1K in reserve and more is better.
 

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2016 Scat Pack M6
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Congrats for having yourself in a position to do this. Like others have said, I'd rather have a 3.6L with a little more mileage than a lower mileage 3.5L. In your price range, FB Marketplace has replaced Craigslist for the place to buy & sell. Get a Carfax and ideally have it looked at by a mechanic. Could be the bets $$ you spend. Also, will help yourself if you are able to travel a little bit to see the right car. Also, if your budget is $11K make sure you are accounting for insurance, taxes, registration
If you have $11K to spend after accounting for those things, look @ cars up to $12.5K-$13K and go and negotiate. All they can do is say no.
If possible, have cash in hand. Its the great lubricant to getting a deal done

2013 Dodge Challenger Rallye Redline Coupe 2D

My budget is: 11k
I just turned 17 and had gotten my license, but never got a car because of coronavirus. I spent past weeks looking online and eventually fell in love with the way the car looks.

After looking online it looks like I can afford a 2010 Challenger SE for 10.5k. It has 60k miles on it. Is this a good deal?
Should I avoid anything over 100k miles. I dont want to get a Challenger with 120k miles and have repairs that I cant afford.
 

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The Pork Wagon (‘14 Cop Charger)
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Something to watch for on the CarFax reports of any 3.6L Challenger is an entry indicating it’s had a cylinder head replaced.

Don’t worry, that’s actually a good thing for those engines. Some had a bad head from the factory and would have been replaced under warranty for free if problems arose.

So if you see one that’s had this done, rest assured it was done by a qualified service tech, using all the proper tools, and ostensibly without any shortcuts taken (since it would have been a warranty job done at the dealership). No need to fear it, it’s already had the problem and been fixed. It’s those that havent had it yet that could be waiting to break down ;)
 
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2) Don’t get any V6 older than 2011. That’s when they started with the 3.6L and it’s a great engine. The 2010 and below V6 (3.5L) was a dog and has few mods available to upgrade. Just steer clear IMHO (I say that after having owned one too).

This ^

If it's feasible with your budget, I would suggest the 3.6 over the 3.5. I have owned both of them too.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Two things come to mind reading your post:

1) don’t put so much stock in the 100K mile thing. If you find a good used one with 120K miles that has a good CarFax, get it if you want it. 200K is when things start falling apart nowadays (its the new 100K).

2) Don’t get any V6 older than 2011. That’s when they started with the 3.6L and it’s a great engine. The 2010 and below V6 (3.5L) was a dog and has few mods available to upgrade. Just steer clear IMHO (I say that after having owned one too).
So Its looking like I can fit a 2011 Challenger in my budget if I can get the right price after all the fees and everything.

Thanks for all info, this was my first time posting to this forum.
 

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2016 SXT Plus Blacktop
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Welcome to Challengertalk ;) As mentioned, make sure you price out insurance before you buy. My 1st car was a 1978 Trans Am, and insurance was $1,500 and almost blew the deal for me. It's better to not be surprised on it. It may not be bad (older and V6 should help), but know up front

A Guy
 

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2018 Scat Pack SHAKER in Plum Crazy
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Look into all of the features/options for whatever year you are looking at. So you know what to look for when you see a car, and can recognize as a nice feature, or identity something that you might go "Man, I wish I found one with xxxx"
I use autoblog for this type of thing, and I look up pdfs of the official brochures. LIke for me, I would try to fine one with the Rallye Package.
993754

 

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A rule of used car buying is to buy the best example you can find and afford.

I am not current on what's available but you need to be. Use various web sites to see what cars are available and their mileage and price.

Use www.kbb.com and www.nada.com to plug in the numbers of cars you "like" and see what the trade in values are. This gives you an idea of what the seller "has" in the car and thus can help you avoid overpaying for the car.

Be sure you give the used car a thorough check out.

Also, keep in mind besides just the car purchase price which blows up some when tax, title, license is factored in, also is followed by the insurance premium hit. My advice is take a VIN of a car you are considering and get an insurance quote based on the VIN.

Last but not least the general advice is to have in reserve 10% of a used car's purchase price to have for just in case. While you can be the best used car appraiser this side of Detroit it is not unknown for a perfectly fine used car to develop an issue shortly after it has changed hands. A water pump can go bad. Or a battery. Or something like that. Probably nothing major -- or you suck at used car check out -- but something. You can even puncture a tire and have to replace 2 tires.

So, at $11K you need at least a spare $1K in reserve and more is better.
If at all possible, buy new!
I spent a small fortune on repairs on what was supposed to be a good used car.
 

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My budget is: 11k
I just turned 17 and had gotten my license, but never got a car because of coronavirus. I spent past weeks looking online and eventually fell in love with the way the car looks.

After looking online it looks like I can afford a 2010 Challenger SE for 10.5k. It has 60k miles on it. Is this a good deal?
Should I avoid anything over 100k miles. I dont want to get a Challenger with 120k miles and have repairs that I cant afford.
I mean would have to agree on the whole 2011 & up thing because I looked at a couple of older ones and I was not happy at all I got an 11 sxt with mods for 11k in February I'm 18 and I've always really liked Hondas still have one but I don't think the milage is as important as how well it was maintained mine had 140k I think it's the best purchase I've ever made
 

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My budget is: 11k
I just turned 17 and had gotten my license, but never got a car because of coronavirus. I spent past weeks looking online and eventually fell in love with the way the car looks.

After looking online it looks like I can afford a 2010 Challenger SE for 10.5k. It has 60k miles on it. Is this a good deal?
Should I avoid anything over 100k miles. I dont want to get a Challenger with 120k miles and have repairs that I cant afford.
where are you located?> i am trying to sell my 2011...has 105k on it tho
 

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How lucky you are to have parents that will let you get a Challenger. Have you thought about putting that money down on a leftover 19 or new 20. The V6 cars are selling in the mid twenties and I have seen some going for low twenties. I know payments are always not the best thing but it will give you a nice warranty and of course that new car smell is hard to beat. Just food for thought on your car hunt
 

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My budget is: 11k
I just turned 17 and had gotten my license, but never got a car because of coronavirus. I spent past weeks looking online and eventually fell in love with the way the car looks.

After looking online it looks like I can afford a 2010 Challenger SE for 10.5k. It has 60k miles on it. Is this a good deal?
Should I avoid anything over 100k miles. I dont want to get a Challenger with 120k miles and have repairs that I cant afford.
Use KBB-never pay retail!
 

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If your budget is $11k buy a car for $8k so you have money to perform repairs, especially if you don't have tools. Every automatic transmission vehicle I've owned has needed a rebuild between 100,000-140,000 miles; even those with documented maintenance.

You're probably going to need new shocks and struts, tires, spark plugs, fluid changes, brakes on any vehicle you're looking at in that price range.

If I had a limited budget I would get something like this MINI and auto-x or take it to road courses. Would be a blast and cheap to work on.

 

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I was seventeen once. My advice to myself, is to wait for the right deal for you. Cars depreciate really fast so your 11k dwindles over time. I would pick a V8 srt or R/T with a blown transmission and some body damage for less than you have. These two things drop your "buy in" price into the gutter. Body work can be done at your leisure and you can use it as a learning tool. The transmission you can change yourself, with help from friends and some pizza. Takes me 13 hours to do (I have all the tools) and some really long 1/2 extensions to get the bell housing bolts. or you can farm it out for a price to a very reputable shop (good rep, no do overs).

You now have a fully depreciated car, and do not need to carry expensive collision & comp insurance. You can drive it and actually afford to put gas in it.

Can you drive stick? Stick cars (7% of production)are hard to sell and guaranteed will need a clutch, but it opens up possibilities. Myself its stick only. Best of luck in your search.
 

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My budget is: 11k
I just turned 17 and had gotten my license, but never got a car because of coronavirus. I spent past weeks looking online and eventually fell in love with the way the car looks.

After looking online it looks like I can afford a 2010 Challenger SE for 10.5k. It has 60k miles on it. Is this a good deal?
My budget is: 11k
I just turned 17 and had gotten my license, but never got a car because of coronavirus. I spent past weeks looking online and eventually fell in love with the way the car looks.

After looking online it looks like I can afford a 2010 Challenger SE for 10.5k. It has 60k miles on it. Is this a good deal?
Should I avoid anything over 100k miles. I dont want to get a Challenger with 120k miles and have repairs that I cant afford.

to be honest do what I did . I bought a 2015 dodge challenger srt 392 from copart. they salvaged it because it smelled like weed, tow truck driver attached the hooks go the rear track bars and pulled making it look like the suspension was damaged. 40 bucks to fix thr rear. and the guy was doing burnouts and drove over a parking block. it hit the engine subframe and nicked the oil pan. i bought a new subframe replaced it and a new oil pan and it fired right up.. its a beautiful car.. saved thousands. look on copart . it wojld save you money and give you a project at the same time
Should I avoid anything over 100k miles. I dont want to get a Challenger with 120k miles and have repairs that I cant afford.
 

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With the SXT in mind, search through forums such as this and educate yourself on the issues the year/model you are looking at have experienced. Find out what recalls, if any, have been issued for your target car.

Then, as you look at individual potential cars, you'll know what documentation to demand verifying if such recall work has been performed, or what common repair issue may have been, or may need to be, addressed.

For the 5.7s and 6.4s for example, radiator seams, water pumps, and (IIRC) 2013 manuals had issues with the grease used on the shifter.

Once you feel you're familiar with the issues others have experienced (and posted about), you'll feel more comfortable when evaluating specific vehicles.
 
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