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My budget is: 11k
I just turned 17 and had gotten my license, but never got a car because of coronavirus. I spent past weeks looking online and eventually fell in love with the way the car looks.

After looking online it looks like I can afford a 2010 Challenger SE for 10.5k. It has 60k miles on it. Is this a good deal?
Should I avoid anything over 100k miles. I dont want to get a Challenger with 120k miles and have repairs that I cant afford.
I agree with the other postings. If the car was well maintained I wouldn't worry too much about mileage, and the 3.6 is far superior to the 3.5. You might look for a 5.7 manual trans--since fewer people are interested in manual transmissions the price should be lower than an automatic. It's that much more fun to drive, and can get better mpg too.
 

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None of us know if you're working or what your family situation is. Best advice, if your parents are around, listen to them. Talk to them about your budget and what you're looking to buy. They might offer you help with cash or tell you that they'll help with insurance or repairs. The Challenger is a fun car to drive but may not be the best first car as it is hard to judge the end of the hood and trunk for a new driver. Again, we don't know you but when I look back at what my parents were telling me at your age, I wish I would have listened more. You're smart enough to come here for advice so that's a good first step. Good luck, hope you find your dream car!
 

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Can't say that I agree with buying one damaged or needing repairs unless you have someone you know that is either a mechanic or a body person, or both. Especially on newer cars repairs are more technical, and unless you want your 1st car to sit in the driveway instead of you driving it, maybe save that for your second car when you have a beater to drive already

A Guy
 

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My budget is: 11k
I just turned 17 and had gotten my license, but never got a car because of coronavirus. I spent past weeks looking online and eventually fell in love with the way the car looks.

After looking online it looks like I can afford a 2010 Challenger SE for 10.5k. It has 60k miles on it. Is this a good deal?
Should I avoid anything over 100k miles. I dont want to get a Challenger with 120k miles and have repairs that I cant afford.
If you can afford it look for an R/T with at least a 5.7 litre HEMI V-8. You can't go wrong with additional horses.
 

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My budget is: 11k
I just turned 17 and had gotten my license, but never got a car because of coronavirus. I spent past weeks looking online and eventually fell in love with the way the car looks.

After looking online it looks like I can afford a 2010 Challenger SE for 10.5k. It has 60k miles on it. Is this a good deal?
Should I avoid anything over 100k miles. I dont want to get a Challenger with 120k miles and have repairs that I cant afford.
With the SXT in mind, search through forums such as this and educate yourself on the issues the year/model you are looking at have experienced. Find out what recalls, if any, have been issued for your target car.

Then, as you look at individual potential cars, you'll know what documentation to demand verifying if such recall work has been performed, or what common repair issue may have been, or may need to be, addressed.

For the 5.7s and 6.4s for example, radiator seams, water pumps, and (IIRC) 2013 manuals had issues with the grease used on the shifter.

Once you feel you're familiar with the issues others have experienced (and posted about), you'll feel more comfortable when evaluating specific vehicles.
Don't get in a hurry if you look a little bit longer you'll be able to find a 2011 the new body style and then you're really be in there! And a whole lotta horsepower. 1968 Dodge polara had A 388 ci in it, High output 330 horsepower 373 gears in the rear in positive track with snow treads, It's been said that you don't give a 17 year old kid a 330 Horse power car, I disagree!
 

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  1. Agreed on the 2011+ for the v6
  2. Run the VIN of the one you really think you like for an insurance quote
  3. 60k miles 2015 model is most likely someone selling because factory warranty is over and probably maintained, but due diligence is still on you. Out of warranty is a bargaining point in your favor if you could find and afford this situation
  4. If you can afford an extended warranty do it
  5. Pay the extra for a Carfax and a mechanics inspection when you find “the one” BEFORE you agree to buy
 

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My budget is: 11k
I just turned 17 and had gotten my license, but never got a car because of coronavirus. I spent past weeks looking online and eventually fell in love with the way the car looks.

After looking online it looks like I can afford a 2010 Challenger SE for 10.5k. It has 60k miles on it. Is this a good deal?
Should I avoid anything over 100k miles. I dont want to get a Challenger with 120k miles and have repairs that I cant afford.
Welcome to the forum, congratulations on getting your license!
FIRST, is the most important thing there is. There are tons of cars for sale out there, once you get hot for any car you are no longer objective in the deal. It’s an appliance like a toaster so get someone, an adult who has knowledge about cars and follow their lead. It’s so easy to get taken advantage of especially since most sell the car for a reason like it needs a bunch of maintenance that they don’t want to pay for or use that money to put into the next car. Pretty and shiny doesn’t tell the whole story. Definitely ask once you think you found a worthy example if you can have a mechanic or dealer inspect it, any hesitation on any question say thank you but I’m not interested. I’m talking put it on a lift and inspect it not in his driveway and you see if they readily agree. At seventeen I thought I knew everything but my uncle actually did and when looking at cars he saved my but from multiple potential bad decisions.
who is titling the car? Insure will vary between your parents and you, I own all the cars my kids drive and it’s way less costly for them as they called for quotes on their own. How long are you driving? How many miles have you driven? Maybe a beater as a starter to see if you like me at 17 make a poor choice and total a car, I got t-boned in my side and lucky I’m still here. Stuff happens.
Good luck in your search and remember this too, the seller NEEDS your money more than you WANT their car. Is your state DMV open? It’s not in NJ and I’m sitting on a motorcycle purchase that I can’t title or register so it’s a paperweight for the last 2 months.
Best of luck to you.
 

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I was seventeen once. My advice to myself, is to wait for the right deal for you. Cars depreciate really fast so your 11k dwindles over time. I would pick a V8 srt or R/T with a blown transmission and some body damage for less than you have. These two things drop your "buy in" price into the gutter. Body work can be done at your leisure and you can use it as a learning tool. The transmission you can change yourself, with help from friends and some pizza. Takes me 13 hours to do (I have all the tools) and some really long 1/2 extensions to get the bell housing bolts. or you can farm it out for a price to a very reputable shop (good rep, no do overs).

You now have a fully depreciated car, and do not need to carry expensive collision & comp insurance. You can drive it and actually afford to put gas in it.

Can you drive stick? Stick cars (7% of production)are hard to sell and guaranteed will need a clutch, but it opens up possibilities. Myself its stick only. Best of luck in your search.
Same here, I was 17 once too!
I am glad you think you have money for a challenger and it is a nice car, but... they are all depreciating assets.
My first car was a 1978 firebird with only primer, no paint. I had fun working on that car and learned about what to do and what not to do with a car.
If you can comfortably afford spending your money, then do it. Otherwise there are many options out there besides challengers. Look at the insurance and maintenance costs, look at other car models too so you know what your money can buy you.
I was interested in a Pontiac Fiero GT once (yeah, I know). It was nice go-cart, but I really did not have the money for it and I walked away and I am very happy to have done that.
Many people also recommended to take an older person with experience in buying cars to help with objectivity, great advice.

Good Luck!
cR
 

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If you can afford it look for an R/T with at least a 5.7 litre HEMI V-8. You can't go wrong with additional horses.
I completely agree. Unless your set on them v6 which is totally cool if you are IMO look for you want. I was 18 when I got my rt, was my second car. My dad told me to wait till I knew I found the one. Since it is your first car, the v6 will do for sure. But depending on what you want find the reasons and go find the car you want from there. For me I liked the r/t classic because of the stripes and wheels it had, with leather seats and the v8 so I knew what I was after . I just had to find the right one. You could always test drive different challengers to see.
 

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I bought my 2009 Dodge Challenger SE (3.5L) for $8,500. This was last November. It had 110k miles on it.

I would recommended getting a 2010 - 2011 + with a 3.6L or better. The 2009's and under were built by Chrysler and it's nearly impossible to get parts from the dealership now. I buy most my parts from RockAuto/Ebay. The reason is because Mitsubishi bought them out around 2009-2010 and stopped making the Chrysler parts.
 

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I bought my 2009 Dodge Challenger SE (3.5L) for $8,500. This was last November. It had 110k miles on it.
Oh man,

I bought an '09 SE in October of 2008. I loved the car. Didn't love that 4 speed transmission. There were bogs between gears at times. Thankfully, things improved over the years.
 
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