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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all, just got done pulling the heads off my Scat Pack Challenger. Lets just say the damage so far looks minor until you notice the pistons firing order is out of whack lol. Looks like I broke a rod or perhaps two. I wasn't doing anything crazy, just accelerating on the freeway. Engine let go in 3rd gear between 4-5K RPMs. I will have the engine out of the car tomorrow and will pull the oil pan to really survey the damage. Rod didn't go through the block, so I am hoping the block can be saved. Looks like the head could saved, but will get an expert opinion. I was planning to get a hellcat, but guess this pretty much grenades that idea lol.
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So this will be the start of my new build!
 

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Yikes that sucks man. Maybe a good time to go 426 or forged 392. Did the valve spring bust? Also what kind of fuel were you running? Do you run or have ever run any octane boost?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yikes that sucks man. Maybe a good time to go 426 or forged 392. Did the valve spring bust? Also what kind of fuel were you running? Do you run or have ever run any octane boost?
Not sure yet what caused the failure. Piston obviously contacted the intake valve on #5 cylinder, but didn't see any other pistons that hit valves. I did have some debris in Cylinder #6 and noticed it beat up the head a little. Piston didn't fracture, so I'm not sure how metal got all the way to cylinder #6 from cylinder #5. Octane was around 97 with a full tank of BP 93 + Boostane. Block comes out tomorrow so I will get a better idea of what happened internally. Unfortunately, it all comes down to money. I have a lead on a 426 hemi short block with 9.8:1 compression ready to go for a decent price and I already have a set of BGE 6.4l truck heads coming in. Don't know if I can afford to get the 426 right now. Really hoping my block checks out and the damage can be repaired. My cam and lifters were replaced within the last 25k miles, so I will transfer them over as long as they weren't damaged.
 
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2018 Dodge Challenger T/A Plus in Yellow Jacket w/5.7L and A8 automatic
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Beyond the powertrain warranty?
Look at his signature.......do you thick FCA would warranty anything with that modification list? :LOL:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Car was Dyno tuned and ran extremely well. I was able to spin the engine and found that it only dropped a valve (WHEW). The unnatural look of the piston locations compared to firing order threw me for a loop. Looks more like a material failure in the valve than anything to do with the tune or cam. Just unlucky this time around, but guess who is getting some drop in forged pistons and possibly a supercharger?!
 
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Okay - the additive is what caused the orange color throughout the combustion chamber.

when the valve head broken off and hammered around the debris probably went up into intake and got sucked into cyl #6

replace your intake with a new one - it will be pretty much impossible to get all of the metal debris cleaned out - since this has long and short runner paths.

Otherwise, you rebuild the engine put the old intake on, and run the risk of metal debris going through the new engine.

This happened with the 5.7s when the old plastic timing chain guides broke causing timing chain failure and broken valves and chipped up pistons and heads. Debris ended up inside the intake manifolds as well
 

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Didn’t see that LOL. Guess a good dyno chassis tune would have helped.
To me it looks like the valve may have dropped (either keeper let loose or valve spring broke). There have been posts here with busted valve springs. Not too long ago a member had several crap out after doing a cam/spring swap.
 

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Okay - the additive is what caused the orange color throughout the combustion chamber.
Yup that is why I asked if he ran any octane boost..that orange color was a dead give away but should not have cause any issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Okay - the additive is what caused the orange color throughout the combustion chamber.

when the valve head broken off and hammered around the debris probably went up into intake and got sucked into cyl #6

replace your intake with a new one - it will be pretty much impossible to get all of the metal debris cleaned out - since this has long and short runner paths.

Otherwise, you rebuild the engine put the old intake on, and run the risk of metal debris going through the new engine.

This happened with the 5.7s when the old plastic timing chain guides broke causing timing chain failure and broken valves and chipped up pistons and heads. Debris ended up inside the intake manifolds as well
As much as it pains me to throw it away, I agree on the intake

To me it looks like the valve may have dropped (either keeper let loose or valve spring broke). There have been posts here with busted valve springs. Not too long ago a member had several crap out after doing a cam/spring swap.
Spring snapped. Just glad the valve got pushed up into the head rather than fall and destroy the cylinder wall. Only found one keeper and imagine the other is in the oil pan.
 
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What type/brand of springs was it? This scenario is what worries me about the mopar performance springs. Yes i understand they will work for lift but the durability of the spring material scares me. Reason im saving for quality springs/retainers and locks for my cam swap instead of using the mopar ones
 

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Car was Dyno tuned and ran extremely well. I was able to spin the engine and found that it only dropped a valve (WHEW). The unnatural look of the piston locations compared to firing order threw me for a loop. Looks more like a material failure in the valve than anything to do with the tune or cam. Just unlucky this time around, but guess who is getting some drop in forged pistons and possibly a supercharger?!
Adding an F1x Procharger to my 426 build. Now I have to upgrade the transmission lol. Good thing I love my car.
 

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What type/brand of springs was it? This scenario is what worries me about the mopar performance springs. Yes i understand they will work for lift but the durability of the spring material scares me. Reason im saving for quality springs/retainers and locks for my cam swap instead of using the mopar ones
All the failures I have seen were on comp not mopar performance springs.
 

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Thats why i asked what type OP has. His failed and i was curious of the brand he used.
If it was mopar performance the springs are good for ~0.625" lift (no shims required). I believe the JG 226/232 cam is 0.581/0.558 lift and 112.5 LSA? Anyways I am interested to see what springs were used.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
What type/brand of springs was it? This scenario is what worries me about the mopar performance springs. Yes i understand they will work for lift but the durability of the spring material scares me. Reason im saving for quality springs/retainers and locks for my cam swap instead of using the mopar ones
They were PAC springs. Can't tell you the exact model since I threw the box out over a year ago.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
If it was mopar performance the springs are good for ~0.625" lift (no shims required). I believe the JG 226/232 cam is 0.581/0.558 lift and 112.5 LSA? Anyways I am interested to see what springs were used.
The lift was just over 0.600. He wouldn't release the LSA.
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