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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone that has done a cam swap in an RT 6 speed I have a few questions for you.

Please let me know if you are available to speak.

Thanks,

Ray
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I was one of the first to do the 6.4 cam. What do you want to know?
There are so many mixed reviews on this topic and it's confusing. Some say you lose torque etc. while other say the gains are great. I would just like to hear it from someone with a 6 speed that has personally done it.

1. Is the cam install worth it by means of power & torque?

2. What type of gains did you see?

3. Did your gas mileage drop?

4. Is the cam the only mod you have or do you have LT, Shorties, CAI, Cat-Back, etc?

5. Who tuned it and was it remote or on a Dyno?

6. Would you spend the money on it again or go in a different direction?

Thanks for your time!!

Ray
 
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I do not mean to hack your thread, but I was thinking about doing the same to my R/T also. My question is will the 6.4 cam work on a 2010 M6?

Thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I do not mean to hack your thread, but I was thinking about doing the same to my R/T also. My question is will the 6.4 cam work on a 2010 M6?

Thank you.
Not a problem at all... I just want to find out from someone that has done it without reading 15 - 20 different threads without what seems to be the answers I am looking for... Hope we both find out.
 

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If you already have the easy bolt on's and are looking for something extra than its worth it. (especially if you do the work your self and don't pay 3000$ labor!) I actually picked up just as much with this cam as all of my other bolt on's combined. I have a cold air, diablo tune, flowmaster cat back, jba shortys, not cats and polished combustion chambers and put down 375 on a dyno jet. I got my car tuned at fastlane in Houston on there dyno jet. It took the dyno operator about 6 pulls to tune the cam and cost 300 bucks. The car lost about 1.5 miles to the gallon and gained 2 tenths and 2 mph in the quarter. It did loose a little low end torque but not very much. The cam more than makes up for that when the tack hits 4000 and pulls hard to 6000. Before I ran at the track I thought it would have picked up more than that from the way it felt. And you can still mope around in 6th gear at 45 mph without the car bucking. If I had to go a different direction I would like to see more real world results from modern muscle and comp cams. If I were guaranteed they could deliver an honest 25 hp in a NA 5.7 over the 6.4 cam than I would be in. Only time will tell. But if you want good fuel economy and have a nice bump in power than the 6.4 cam is the way to go.
 
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If you already have the easy bolt on's and are looking for something extra than its worth it. (especially if you do the work your self and don't pay 3000$ labor!) I actually picked up just as much with this cam as all of my other bolt on's combined. I have a cold air, diablo tune, flowmaster cat back, jba shortys, not cats and polished combustion chambers and put down 375 on a dyno jet. I got my car tuned at fastlane in Houston on there dyno jet. It took the dyno operator about 6 pulls to tune the cam and cost 300 bucks. The car lost about 1.5 miles to the gallon and gained 2 tenths and 2 mph in the quarter. It did loose a little low end torque but not very much. The cam more than makes up for that when the tack hits 4000 and pulls hard to 6000. Before I ran at the track I thought it would have picked up more than that from the way it felt. And you can still mope around in 6th gear at 45 mph without the car bucking. If I had to go a different direction I would like to see more real world results from modern muscle and comp cams. If I were guaranteed they could deliver an honest 25 hp in a NA 5.7 over the 6.4 cam than I would be in. Only time will tell. But if you want good fuel economy and have a nice bump in power than the 6.4 cam is the way to go.

Did you have the JBA shortys and no cats when you did the before quarter mile run? Could the custom tune have had more to do with with the 2 tenths gain?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
If you already have the easy bolt on's and are looking for something extra than its worth it. (especially if you do the work your self and don't pay 3000$ labor!) I actually picked up just as much with this cam as all of my other bolt on's combined. I have a cold air, diablo tune, flowmaster cat back, jba shortys, not cats and polished combustion chambers and put down 375 on a dyno jet. I got my car tuned at fastlane in Houston on there dyno jet. It took the dyno operator about 6 pulls to tune the cam and cost 300 bucks. The car lost about 1.5 miles to the gallon and gained 2 tenths and 2 mph in the quarter. It did loose a little low end torque but not very much. The cam more than makes up for that when the tack hits 4000 and pulls hard to 6000. Before I ran at the track I thought it would have picked up more than that from the way it felt. And you can still mope around in 6th gear at 45 mph without the car bucking. If I had to go a different direction I would like to see more real world results from modern muscle and comp cams. If I were guaranteed they could deliver an honest 25 hp in a NA 5.7 over the 6.4 cam than I would be in. Only time will tell. But if you want good fuel economy and have a nice bump in power than the 6.4 cam is the way to go.
Thanks for your time. I currently have Kook's LT, Kook's Green High Flow Cats, Mopar CAI, Dynomax Cat-Back and Hemifever Tune. I am looking for something to compliment what I already have. I also wished their was a cam with a power band more in the 1500 - 4500 rpm range. 4000 - 6000 is too close to redlining for me. I know HHP has a VVT cam out that suppose to gain 70 - 90 HP but CMR tuning is limited on the 2013 Models so I am not sure if they can properly tune it. Decisions...Decisions....

I installed my LT headers myself but never a cam.... Is it hard to do?
 

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The stock cam will suit you just fine if you don't want to turn the rpm's. Horsepower is dependent on rpm. Its actually measured as torque at a given rpm. If you are hell bent on making power without spinning your motor than get a strocker shortblock and keep your stock cam. BTW, you shouldn't be afraid to hit redline with a 5.7! It will do it ALL DAY LONG!!! 5700 is nothing for this engine!!! I have an 2009 challenger with a 5700 redline and a lifetime (voided by now!) warenty) Dodge would not have done this unless they
had complete faith in there engines.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The stock cam will suit you just fine if you don't want to turn the rpm's. Horsepower is dependent on rpm. Its actually measured as torque at a given rpm. If you are hell bent on making power without spinning your motor than get a strocker shortblock and keep your stock cam. BTW, you shouldn't be afraid to hit redline with a 5.7! It will do it ALL DAY LONG!!! 5700 is nothing for this engine!!! I have an 2009 challenger with a 5700 redline and a lifetime (voided by now!) warenty) Dodge would not have done this unless they
had complete faith in there engines.
I did not for it to mean i was afraid to. I was just hoping the power band would have come in sooner. If the 392 Intake will help the I might add that as well?

Did you do the Intake swap - If so about what did it run?

Also how hard was it to change the cam?
 

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I did not for it to mean i was afraid to. I was just hoping the power band would have come in sooner. If the 392 Intake will help the I might add that as well?

Also how hard was it to change the cam?
I did all my own r & r, so it takes some time to remove all the stuff, but doable if you're mechanically inclined.

I'll chime in (cam and CMR remote tune, stock intake, stock exhaust) the cam swap is easy - spin the cam to knock the lifters up their bores and you don't need to pull the heads.

I didn't need to remove the front nose - there was plenty of room to pull the cam once you remove the radiator and lower the a/c - p/s combo condenser out of the way. The radiator drops out from below.

Get the spring compressor designed for the Hemi engine and it makes the job much easier. I used an air compressor with a air chuck/spark plug adapter to hold the valves shut while changing springs and its not bad.
 

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"Im using Manley springs 221431-16 with manley retainer part # 23612-16. These are the steel retainers. Im also using Manley spring cup 42324-16 and no cam phaser. If i would not have screwed up the rear bearing the cam itself would have been an easy install. Pull the radiator, move the powersteering pump, ac compressor, and alternator out of the way (just unbolt them an lay them to the side, no need to disconnect the ac lines or power steering lines). Also the condensor can stay in the car as well, just move it aside also. Pull the dampner and timing cover and your there. Make sure the mark on the top timing sprocket (not the hole) is pointing straight up and draw a mark on the oil pump to match the keyway on the crank. This is TDC. There are no marks on the crank or dampner to reference TDC. Remove the phaser/sprocket and spin the cam over a couple of times. This will push the lifters up. I did not use magnets to hold up the lifters. Remove the plate that holds the cam in and carefully remove the cam. The cam will come out with the front clip,grill, and condensor on the car."

If you've ever done a cam swap before than it's not that difficult. If you haven't then you might want to do a little more research. And for heavens sake don't do like me and try to hurry up the job. I had to pull my engine because I ****ed the rear cam bearing trying to force the new cam in. I did not have a bolt installed on the front of the cam to lift the back of the cam up. I would also say that any aftermarket cam you install is going to move the power band up from your stock cam.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I did all my own r & r, so it takes some time to remove all the stuff, but doable if you're mechanically inclined.

I'll chime in (cam and CMR remote tune, stock intake, stock exhaust) the cam swap is easy - spin the cam to knock the lifters up their bores and you don't need to pull the heads.

I didn't need to remove the front nose - there was plenty of room to pull the cam once you remove the radiator and lower the a/c - p/s combo condenser out of the way. The radiator drops out from below.

Get the spring compressor designed for the Hemi engine and it makes the job much easier. I used an air compressor with a air chuck/spark plug adapter to hold the valves shut while changing springs and its not bad.
Thanks for the feedback... I thought the heads had to be pulled as to why the shops wanted so much labor ($1200 just for cam install plus shop supplies and gaskets), but you and 340party have both confirmed it can be done without pulling the heads. I am mechanically inclined... I did install my own LT headers and surely it can be much harder than that... About how long did it take you for the install of the cam?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
"Im using Manley springs 221431-16 with manley retainer part # 23612-16. These are the steel retainers. Im also using Manley spring cup 42324-16 and no cam phaser. If i would not have screwed up the rear bearing the cam itself would have been an easy install. Pull the radiator, move the powersteering pump, ac compressor, and alternator out of the way (just unbolt them an lay them to the side, no need to disconnect the ac lines or power steering lines). Also the condensor can stay in the car as well, just move it aside also. Pull the dampner and timing cover and your there. Make sure the mark on the top timing sprocket (not the hole) is pointing straight up and draw a mark on the oil pump to match the keyway on the crank. This is TDC. There are no marks on the crank or dampner to reference TDC. Remove the phaser/sprocket and spin the cam over a couple of times. This will push the lifters up. I did not use magnets to hold up the lifters. Remove the plate that holds the cam in and carefully remove the cam. The cam will come out with the front clip,grill, and condensor on the car."

If you've ever done a cam swap before than it's not that difficult. If you haven't then you might want to do a little more research. And for heavens sake don't do like me and try to hurry up the job. I had to pull my engine because I ****ed the rear cam bearing trying to force the new cam in. I did not have a bolt installed on the front of the cam to lift the back of the cam up. I would also say that any aftermarket cam you install is going to move the power band up from your stock cam.
340party... I really appreciate your time with this... Like I mentioned above I do have mechanical ability and if I have the right guidance I feel I can do this. If your bearing would have not messed up about how long would it have taken you to do the job?
 

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Thanks for the feedback... I thought the heads had to be pulled as to why the shops wanted so much labor ($1200 just for cam install plus shop supplies and gaskets), but you and 340party have both confirmed it can be done without pulling the heads. I am mechanically inclined... I did install my own LT headers and surely it can be much harder than that... About how long did it take you for the install of the cam?
It did this over the course of a week (some days less time put in than others) - the biggest consumer of time is taking apart all the wire harness clips (you want them out of the way) and taking the time to avoid breaking the clips/retainers - they're on tight. On the passenger side, part of the large harness is clipped to the valve cover and that has to come off to remove the cover. It also helped to unclip it from the inner fender to have more access for bolts on that side as well.

I had not taken one of these engines apart before, but the next go around, it would go faster. There's nothing particularly exotic, but learning what it where on the fly makes you pay attention to those details when you go to to reassemble things.

The cam itself was probably the easiest part.
 
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