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Recently had my 2018 SXT installed with 1600 max watt dual kicker subs with 2400w amp. After leaving the install place, I noticed sluggish acceleration, a significant vibration in break peddle when putting on brights, and MPG is markedly lower.

I don’t think weight is an issues, given the fact all the equipment was in trunk for over a week and no issue. I pulled fuse 29 to reset tranny and still the problem.

Is this something to do with the alternator? I don’t want the bass to hurt my baby, is there an easy fix to this?
 

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Unplug it and see what happens. Maybe they messed with something in the install.
 

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Pull the fuse on the main power line. See if that helps. Also, out of curiosity, did you have a capacitor installed? Maybe some more detail on the install would help-but hopefully you are headed back to the shop to figure out what the deal is.
 

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I'd be going back to the shop, unless they are incapable of a correct install. What does the battery voltage show while you are running and feel sluggish? It's possible the amp is drawing too much power for the alternator?

050.jpg

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I had a dual 10” kicker compR sub (800rms/1600max) installed with a pioneer 2400 max amp with LC2i line output converter. No capacitor as I hadn’t expected needing one or if needed thought I could add later. Didn’t expect to see and notice such a difference in performance and Best Buy was closed (I know what your gonna say, but they did install which is insured) and I brought my own parts.

The sound itself seems to be fine, now the car is the issue. If it is the alternator, would a capacitor give it some help to go back to normal? Or would alternator be best?

Also, would alternator effect the performance and such? Sluggish acell, mpg, etc?


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Your voltage is dropping to low which is affecting the way the car runs and feels.

Since it's a V6 I'm not sure it's the 220 Amp alternator in my V8.

I have a cap but sometimes mine does drop when driving around town at a low rpm, and the car will drop rpms when the bass would hit hard.

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Have you tried driving with the audio off? If you still have problems, it is probably not related to alternator not being large enough. Unless something got damaged during the install I can't see how it is related. Anything affecting everything you mentioned would probably throw a trouble code.
 

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Have you tried driving with the audio off?
Besides wanting to know the answer to this question, your car either has a 160 or 180 Amp alternator. So maybe the installer thought you had something more powerful to handle the additional load?
 

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All the SXT come with the 160 Amp alternators, as far as I know

A Guy
 

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Discussion Starter #11
All the SXT come with the 160 Amp alternators, as far as I know

A Guy


UPDATE: went around to multiple car audio places today and everyone says it looks to be set up fine. The Best Buy guy seems to think the problems are unrelated though after 3 months of ownership for it to suddenly start acting different seems unlikely.

Will include battery readings from today (14 was at start, 12 v was after some driving. My question is now, on the off chance they are unrelated, what would cause the sluggish acceleration (not a ton, but enough that I noticed it right away) and MPG loss? And my amp is pioneer while subs are kicker, could that make a difference in something? 2E6B1A18-8DC4-48C3-9DF0-DCD828A36815.jpg

New gear head so even the “obvious” answers are appreciated. I don’t want to hurt my baby, she’s too pretty (see pic lol) for that IMG_6019.jpg IMG_6015.jpg


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It's not able to keep the volts up car is more electronic so have you tired taking off the power to the amp and see if things go back to normal?

It should have a fuse from the battery to the amp that you can disconnect.

Brand really doesn't matter I have a Massive Audio HIPPOXL122 and a 5k amp which does like 1.5-2k rms at @1ohm

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Indeed disconnecting the new audio would be the way to go. Get the new amplifier draw off the system and see if the issue goes away. That would be my first step. If it doesn't, it's possible either something was affected during the install, or you coincidentally have a completely new issue.

I'll tell you, my voltage once the car is started is around 14.1-14.3v. I've never seen mine while driving at 12.5v. I know modern cars can use the PCM to monitor voltage and switch on/off the alternator voltage as needed. I've never seen mine below 14.1v when I have looked at it. Even just idling in a line, 14.1v consistently.

BTW, the different brands alone would make no difference.

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Thank you guys,

Been messing around with the set up but forgot to disconnect. I will be sure to do that tomorrow. Below us pics of the set up currently. Do you have your subs facing the trunk? Or front?

On the audio front, I just read that porter boxes need to have a subsonic filter, yet the pioneer amp only has gain and LPF adjustments. I also have the LC2i hooked up. Could I use these together to make a mock SSF? Don’t want the subs to die on me. Also, what is distortion and clipping sound like? I can get the car shaking, but worried I’m in distortion territory. IMG_6024.jpg IMG_6025.jpg


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Thank you guys,

Been messing around with the set up but forgot to disconnect. I will be sure to do that tomorrow. Below us pics of the set up currently. Do you have your subs facing the trunk? Or front?

On the audio front, I just read that porter boxes need to have a subsonic filter, yet the pioneer amp only has gain and LPF adjustments. I also have the LC2i hooked up. Could I use these together to make a mock SSF? Don’t want the subs to die on me. Also, what is distortion and clipping sound like? I can get the car shaking, but worried I’m in distortion territory. View attachment 948617 View attachment 948619


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I used to work for Law Enforcement turning Autos, 4 wheelers, Trucks, Boats and Motorcycles into Cop vehicles. The FIRST step is to create you own "stand alone" electrical system. I would go straight to the battery and run power to a fuse block that I provided. Everything would be powered off of that fuse block. Law Enforcement vehicles require a TON of electrical load. You HAVE to stay out of the Factory systems because there are so many electronics that require clean power. We also ran a "grounding block" off the NEG side of the Battery. Everything was grounded to that. Everything worked flawlessly. If you tap into one of the vehicles circuits....freaky weird stuff can happen.

So what is my point here? Make sure EVERYTHING that was installed is running DIRECTLY to the battery. At the Battery...the + wire coming off needs to be fused right there after the post. (install a fuse holder) The Grounds need to be directly to the NEGATIVE post.

A lot of people think the Body or Chassis is the Ground. It is NOT. The Earth is the Ground. The Body and Chassis are separated from the Earth by rubber tires. So there goes that theory. In a Vehicle with rubber tires...the NEG Battery post is THE GROUND.

A lot of people tap in anywhere it is easy for them. Stereo installers frequently use "self tapping" screws and tap into the Body under the carpet. Wherever is easy for them.....cuz "time is money". This can create "ground loops" that cause all sorts of weird symptoms.

So...if you power everything and ground everything directly to the Battery.....you should have zero problems as well as zero noise.
 

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I’ll post pic soon but installer wired positive and negative directly to battery as well. So he seems to have followed the separate system mindset. Why’s my girl gotta be difficult lol


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I’ll post pic soon but installer wired positive and negative directly to battery as well. So he seems to have followed the separate system mindset. Why’s my girl gotta be difficult lol


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Great!! If he did not tap into anything else....sounds like you have a charging problem. At rest...not been driven for at least an hour....a fully charged battery should read at least 12.75 volts. An alternator at idle should put out between roughly 13.8 - 14.3 volts. If you are showing in the 12 range while driving....you have serious charging / battery problems. Make sure your battery cables are clean and tight! If the alternator is bad......you cannot do a fair test to a battery. You would have to charge the battery......and do a voltage test...at least 12.75 volts after an hour off the charger. The other test is a "load test". An auto parts store will generally do that for free. If however your battery voltage at the battery post is low when running.....you need an alternator. Check the serpentine belt as well. A loose one can cause it to undercharge.
 

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You really need to do the disconnect/fuse pull and test with and without power to the system. Sure sounds like yo need an alternator.
 

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So what is my point here? Make sure EVERYTHING that was installed is running DIRECTLY to the battery. At the Battery...the + wire coming off needs to be fused right there after the post. (install a fuse holder) The Grounds need to be directly to the NEGATIVE post.
Don't want to derail this thread too far, but I was trying to get input to this in my audio upgrade thread (https://www.challengertalk.com/foru...-6-speaker-amplified-system-upgrades-671131/). I installed an amp in the trunk and ran both positive and negative wires directly to the battery (obviously, the positive wire is fused within 6 inches of the positive battery connection).

However, I then read online that it a BAD idea to run ANYTHING direclty to the negative battery terminal (other than the stock wiring that connects there). The reasoning was that if the factory connection between the negative battery terminal and the chassis were to get disconnected/severed somehow and then you tried to start the car, the negative wire to the amp would become the negative connection for the starter (or something along those lines) - and at minmum could fry your amp and worst case, start a fire. That made me kind of nervous. It was said that you should NEVER run ANY negative wires directly to the battery (and that fusing the negative wire is even worse).

I've also read that going directly to the negative battery terminal actually causes MORE noise issues than going to chassis.

Here is a link where that talks about how NOTHING other than the cars factory wiring should ever be connected to the negative battery terminal. It kind of scared me - I was going to change it to go to the chassis, but it worked perfectly going directly to the battery, so I haven't messed with it yet.

https://www.w8ji.com/negative_lead_to_battery.htm

Curious to get your input on this. I understand it would be a VERY rare "situation" for the connection from the negative battery terminal to the chassis to become damaged, but could this really be as bad as it is made out to be in the link above?

I honeslty don't know what to believe anymore. So much conflicting info on this online.
 

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Don't want to derail this thread too far, but I was trying to get input to this in my audio upgrade thread (https://www.challengertalk.com/foru...-6-speaker-amplified-system-upgrades-671131/). I installed an amp in the trunk and ran both positive and negative wires directly to the battery (obviously, the positive wire is fused within 6 inches of the positive battery connection).

However, I then read online that it a BAD idea to run ANYTHING direclty to the negative battery terminal (other than the stock wiring that connects there). The reasoning was that if the factory connection between the negative battery terminal and the chassis were to get disconnected/severed somehow and then you tried to start the car, the negative wire to the amp would become the negative connection for the starter (or something along those lines) - and at minmum could fry your amp and worst case, start a fire. That made me kind of nervous. It was said that you should NEVER run ANY negative wires directly to the battery (and that fusing the negative wire is even worse).

I've also read that going directly to the negative battery terminal actually causes MORE noise issues than going to chassis.

Here is a link where that talks about how NOTHING other than the cars factory wiring should ever be connected to the negative battery terminal. It kind of scared me - I was going to change it to go to the chassis, but it worked perfectly going directly to the battery, so I haven't messed with it yet.

https://www.w8ji.com/negative_lead_to_battery.htm

Curious to get your input on this. I understand it would be a VERY rare "situation" for the connection from the negative battery terminal to the chassis to become damaged, but could this really be as bad as it is made out to be in the link above?

I honeslty don't know what to believe anymore. So much conflicting info on this online.

Noise is generated by "ground loops". This means the negative electrons are flowing different ways and crossing paths back to the battery and generating noise. The best way is to ground directly to the NEG post....since it is the TRUE ground. In stereo...you want to run the speaker wires down one side of the car. Then you run the power wires down the other side of the car. I have done this many times....and NEVER had one spec of noise. That is the flat truth.

The proper way is to install a fuse holder on BOTH positive and ground. The reason is...electrons flow in both. If something happened to the system......the fuse would blow on either feed and protect the equipment. The law enforcement radio's and the computers we would fuse both of those grounds with a 10 amp fuse each. (sensitive equipment) Anyone that says fusing a wire is bad.....is misinformed. When you fuse a wire....you control how much amp draw goes through that wire.....period. I have never heard of a starter drawing through a stereo ground. Anything is possible. I just have never heard of it. Again...if you put a fuse on the ground......any problems would be averted.

Boats are a prime example. The only ground there is .....IS the NEG battery post. Ever try grounding to fiberglass or wood? You install a grounding block.....and EVERYTHING grounds to it. I have never heard of a stereo frying from a boat starter...and I was born and raised in Florida.
I'm not saying it has not happened....but it must be so rare that it is a non issue. Most modern boats have nice stereos/amps/ subs.

Hundreds of vehicles of all types I have built using this principle. I have never had one single problem related to going to the battery. In fact.....it has CURED most problems. Modern Law Enforcement vehicles have a massive electrical load that MUST be fed with it's own supply. I have never experienced any interference with the modern electronics of the vehicle when done in this manner.

The only difference is that we would install a big relay off the battery......instead of a fuse holder for the fuse blocks. I have installed a number of stereos as well for me and friends / family. People have marveled how clean the sound always is.....and never using or needing a noise filter.

Thats my best advice for ya......I promise you will never have a problem wiring this way. As a practice.....whenever I get a new vehicle....I take some time and go over the important connections. Normally I will get a turn or so on the battery post and grounds. I always follow the main ground and tighten it really well. Mass produced vehicles need some personal love to make sure things are right.
 
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