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2016 Challenger 5.7 6-speed
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101 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I recently lowered my car with mopar stage 1 springs and have had my car in 2 different alignment shops outside of St.louis, MO area and they have my car as close as they can in spec. My front camber is out of spec really bad on the right side and noticeable when taking hard left turns at slow speed in parking lots and at high speeds. It’s rubbing on the steering knuckle from the marks left on the tire. The rear is out of spec but just on the line of -.1 before it’s in the red on the left side.

My questions is installing the Upper front control arms looks a breeze since I have the proper tools but installing the rear camber bushings has me seeking advice on anyone that has done this install personally. Since they are a one time install when pressed in I don’t want to screw it up. I have the before adjustment and after alignment sheet, but will post up later when I get home. This is the post install mopar stage 1 springs.
 

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Ive installed both these parts on my car. Although i have all the tools to diy, i chose to take it to a buddys lift. The front control arms arent tonhard in the driveway. The rear bushings however require either removing the rear arm and using a press, or a specialty tool that clamps right on the arm and pushes the bushing out.

It is super important that you have reading of the alignment before you put the rear bushing so you can time the bushing properly
 

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2016 Challenger 5.7 6-speed
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101 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I’ve installed the front upper control arms and was going to have a local shop install the rear bushings but they did the alignment with the new front arms on and here is my alignment. They said there was no need for the rear bushings to be installed.

Left front camber: -1.0
Left front caster: 8.6
Left front toe: .08

Right front camber: -1.1
Right front caster: 8.9
Right front toe: .09

Cross camber: .2
Cross caster: -.3
Total toe: .17
Set back: .19

Left rear camber : -1.9
Left rear toe: .17

Right rear camber: -2.1
Right rear toe: .18

Total rear toe: .34
Thrust angle: -.01

I gave the tech the SRT spec’s and everything seems to be ok but my steering wheel is off centered to the left and the tech says his SNAP-ON tool is unable to get it any better and I will have to have the dealer rear center the steering wheel because it’s electronic steering. I sense bullshit because I thought an alignment process includes centering the steering wheel.

Can anyone look at my spec’s and give me any advice if I need the bushings and what I need to do about the steering wheel before I pay someone else.
 

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I know my vehicle was set with all the bushings to -2.0 in the rear and -1.7-1.8in the front

Also call bullshit.i sell snapon tools and our steering wheel alignment tool is indeed crap. But still doesnt give an excuse for him to be lazy and not adjust your wheel for the expensive alignment
 

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Every shop that I have ever had an alignment done at has a fixture that they use to hold the wheel straight before they adjust anything under the car.
1. Straighten steering wheel
2. Lock fixture
3. Align car

Rather straight forward.
 

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2016 Challenger 5.7 6-speed
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101 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Yeah I’m gonna stop by there again today and talk to the mechanic and tell him the dealership says there is no adjustment for electronic steering besides alignment. Looking at the rear toe on my alignment. Could it be out? My car pulls slightly the way the steering wheel is off center towards(left) so I’m constantly goin into oncoming traffic. I thought it was the crown in the road but I’ve found every flat and straight road to drive on. Still no better
 

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2016 SXT Plus Blacktop
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For my car, non SRT specs, rear toe range was listed as -0.05 to O.25

A Guy
 

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2016 Challenger 5.7 6-speed
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101 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
I’ve never did an alignment myself but just my suggestion on my own post it looks like they could of taken a lil more time on my rear toe. And I think that would of then dialed the front in while the steering wheel was centered. But this again is just my suggestion.
 

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Although im not proud to admit, my mechanics snap on tool that holds the wheel broke, so he tied my seatbelt to hold the wheel. Hell tell the mechanic you will sit in the car and hold it while he does it.
 
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