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Discussion Starter #21
x2......the key is good IAT's when you are idling at the tree after the burnout box.That will gain you max torque when it's time to launch the car at the track.Same as when you are sitting in traffic.
Engine temp was 183deg with fans running.

Definitely agree with good IAT's at idle and keeping those IAT's low rather than spiking like the BWoody did. Definitely looking forward to the Stack Performance bullet intake for testing.
 

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I went this route and couldn't be happier.....




My IAT's are always within 5* of ambient no matter what.The down side is it's not cheap and the install is not for the faint hearted.
 

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Just a few observations, I believe the BWoody IAT relocation might be getting heat from the radiator fan at idle. That is why you see the rapid increase of temperatures as the vehicle is not moving compared to the others. However, once the vehicle is at speed, the air temperatures are very consistent and smooth.
In comparison, the C&L without air box which is similar to the BWoody (no air box but IAT relocated), at 70mph, the air intake readings are, in general, lower.

More datalogging to follow as we await the Stack Performance Bullet intake.

Some of my expectations of the bullet will be a very smooth air flow reading and an air temperature reading that isn't affected by the radiator fan.
If you look at the ambient air temperature between the different setups you'll notice the BWoody done conciderably better for being higher ambient air temperatures compared to the other runs. Colder air is easier to keep or get down to the colder temperature rather than warmer air.

My main question though is why do you expect the Stack Performance Bullet to perform better than the BWoody. They both suck air from the same area, they both have the AIT sensor located in approx. the same location. The only difference is the BWoody is metal and the Bullet is composite which earlier in this thread has showed there is not much difference in temperatures between the two material. The Bullet has a nasty 90* elbow which I don't like about it while the BWoody has a smoother air flow with two 45 angles. The more I read about these systems the more I think I might have made the wrong choice by buying a Bullet intake. I might have to call and cancel my order but I'll explain why not later.

The stock air box sucks air from the same locations the long tube CAI suck their air from. The only difference is the SRT has better air flow down there then the RT has. The stock air system is a 4" system the same as the CAI. The only difference is the stock air system has the AIT located by the TB and the long tube CAI has it located down by the filter. One could easily relocate the stock AIT in front of the the engine cowl and behind the grill to read ambient air temperatures all the time.

If we read how run time can affect performance and run time between dyno tests along with how the dyno was run and then add in how each pull can be off are we really seeing believable numbers from the aftermarket world.

Now my question is are us consumers being lead down a path of deception by the aftermarket. Could us consumers actually build a better CAI using the stock air system. I've been reading on the LX, Charger, and various other forums lately and beleive we can build a better performing CAI system ourselves IF your willing to cut a 4" hole in the plastic cowling behind the grill.

The only true CAI system I have seen is a home made one and the Vararam system. Too bad the Vararam people have forgotten about the Challenger people. This would be the ultimate aftermarket system that would end the dispute about ambient air temperatures.

Sure wish I was willing to cut a 4" hole in my cowling behind the grill or I would have a true CAI along with forced air (didn't say ram air because that can not happen unless your traveling 300 MPH) using my stock air box and a better flowing air filter. Then relocate the AIT in front of the cowling and behind the grill for the ultimate CAI system and save a bundle of cash over buying a CAI that marginally performs above the stock system. I want to keep the body parts as close to factory for future purposes or I would build my own CAI.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
My main question though is why do you expect the Stack Performance Bullet to perform better than the BWoody.
I am thinking the Stack or Injen CAI's might be better because of the filter location and the accessibility to outside air, as you mentioned with the SRT. For kicks, though, the Stack does remove the driver side brake vent so I might remove it for testing purposes and see what results come of it prior to the Stack installation.

Of course, no telling until we can test it out. It'll be good to see the difference between a true ambient air intake and the short ram intake. According to Ryan at Stack, the next group of shipments will be finishing final inspection next Wednesday, so perhaps 2 weeks from now, we'll get to compare some results.
 

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Intake system

I went this route and couldn't be happier.....




My IAT's are always within 5* of ambient no matter what.The down side is it's not cheap and the install is not for the faint hearted.
Beautiful air intake system. Whose system is this, or did you fabricate it yourself?
 

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I went this route and couldn't be happier.....



My IAT's are always within 5* of ambient no matter what.The down side is it's not cheap and the install is not for the faint hearted.
Eric I have been curious where the IAT is located on the twins
 

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Beautiful air intake system. Whose system is this, or did you fabricate it yourself?
This is A CTP intake system....they are about $900 a pop,they are fully smoothed in and out and run 9" filters......they are custom built to order and are good for about 10hp over every other CAI so far.
 

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Eric I have been curious where the IAT is located on the twins
IAT is pretty much in the stock location Al.....so the readings I get are close to the TB.
I'm pretty sure he made it himself. There was a guy on the charger forums that did this and I think that was him.
You are thinking of RandysWay,and while his twin intake is quite the showpiece it flows nothing like this one does.
 

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You are thinking of RandysWay,and while his twin intake is quite the showpiece it flows nothing like this one does.

I thought the Y connection before the TB was a little different along with the bends before the Y. Couldn't find the picture I was looking for so I assumed it was you, I've seen your username and just assumed, sorry for the mix up.
 

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How come no one has thought of a way to get the hot air outta the engine bay quicker? If you want more cooler air, then you gotta get the hotter air out quicker than the cooler coming in. Sitting at a light or staging at idle just kills us with heat soak. I know that these cars are really bad about moving the heated air out. I swear that eggs can be fried on my hood.
 

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How come no one has thought of a way to get the hot air outta the engine bay quicker? If you want more cooler air, then you gotta get the hotter air out quicker than the cooler coming in. Sitting at a light or staging at idle just kills us with heat soak. I know that these cars are really bad about moving the heated air out. I swear that eggs can be fried on my hood.
It's been discussed on other threads just not this one.
Use functional hood scoops, remove the cowl cover over the brake reservoir, remove the engine cover, remove the belly pan, install a 180* thermostat and us the predator to lower your fan settings to 184* low fan and 188* high fan this will move the hot under-hood air out along with lower engine coolant temps. The factory thermostat is 203* and the high fan setting is something like 223* so you see lower the fan settings will really help in getting the hot under-hood temps out. I've been considering removing more of the plastic shields under the car also. I know I've missed something here, maybe I'll think of it later and add it.
 

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This is one car that should have come with standard cowl vents! :D
 

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The problem with cowl vents is that they let air in not out.....the base of the windshield is high pressure air.This is why cowl induction on the Chevys worked so well and why Nascar still uses the cowl for their air intake.Even the factory uses the cowl for the a/c air intake.If you want to evacuate hot air you want vents on top of the hood that will let hot air be pulled out if the engine bay......look where the vents are on the Viper.
 

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The problem with cowl vents is that they let air in not out.....the base of the windshield is high pressure air.This is why cowl induction on the Chevys worked so well and why Nascar still uses the cowl for their air intake.Even the factory uses the cowl for the a/c air intake.If you want to evacuate hot air you want vents on top of the hood that will let hot air be pulled out if the engine bay......look where the vents are on the Viper.
I thought about that when I typed it but didn't explain because I was lazy.

You are correct at higher speeds when air flow creates a bubble at the windshield cowling. City driving would not create this bubble or so little it wouldn't make much of difference. The air coming in from the radiator and other inlets would force more air out than the small increase of air pressure at the windshield. Sitting at a stop light would really let more air out and that's what your after to avoid heat soak and sucking under-hood hot air into your intake.

Another thing even if air is coming in from up top it has to evacuate some where which would be through the trans tunnel. This would create a low pressure situation in the engine bay which would help pull air out of the engine bay.
 

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I thought about that when I typed it but didn't explain because I was lazy.

You are correct at higher speeds when air flow creates a bubble at the windshield cowling. City driving would not create this bubble or so little it wouldn't make much of difference. The air coming in from the radiator and other inlets would force more air out than the small increase of air pressure at the windshield. Sitting at a stop light would really let more air out and that's what your after to avoid heat soak and sucking under-hood hot air into your intake.

Another thing even if air is coming in from up top it has to evacuate some where which would be through the trans tunnel. This would create a low pressure situation in the engine bay which would help pull air out of the engine bay.
There is already a low pressure area near the trans tunnel due to the belly pans.The air is drawn through due to the vacuum created. Unfortunately even though there is underhood heat the amount vented through the cowl would be so trivial at a traffic light you would never notice it.This is a subject that we have been trying to beat for 5 years now.I know you guys are just starting to with the Challengers but trust me when I tell you we have been there and done that.Basically it has come down to CAI's that draw from underneath to get cool air,phenolic spacers on the Intake Manifold to try and keep it from being heat soaked and thermal coatings on headers and manifolds.I wish you luck on finding another way but I think you will run into the same thing we have found in the past.
 

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Ok, I used the wrong term when I said "cowl", then. I was trying to refer to the side of the car. So I guess those would be the fender panels.

I'm not trying to suggest that it alone would make a big difference, though. I'm just thinking more exits can't hurt.
 

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I know this is a very old subject I found it doing a search. Has anyone done any other mods to help get the hot air out ?? I just installed a mopar CAI on my 2010 6.1 SRT. In the directions it says to remove the air deflector. I looked every where and I couldn't find it. I can notice a little after installing it but any other ways to get fresh air to it would be great. Also I had to relocate the sensor down to where the filter is.
 
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