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Reviving this since I just did a similar test with the stock filter and box on my 6.4 compared to the newly installed Hellcat box w/grill intake and Hellcat filter.

My results for the stock setup were essentially the same +~10-12 degrees at the MAP, compared to ambient air. The Hellcat box and filter has been reading +7-9 degrees over ambient while driving. This makes sense to me since you're pulling more cold air in (bumper and grill vs. bumper only), and the filter flows better over the stock setup.

My results are averaged over multiple days of driving in low 70's to low mid 80's outside temp.
 

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2011 R/T 6M Bright White, 590whp 490wtq, Whipple 10psi, 274 cam, 1 7/8 LT headers, 429 gears
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Reviving this since I just did a similar test with the stock filter and box on my 6.4 compared to the newly installed Hellcat box w/grill intake and Hellcat filter.

My results for the stock setup were essentially the same +~10-12 degrees at the MAP, compared to ambient air. The Hellcat box and filter has been reading +7-9 degrees over ambient while driving. This makes sense to me since you're pulling more cold air in (bumper and grill vs. bumper only), and the filter flows better over the stock setup.

My results are averaged over multiple days of driving in low 70's to low mid 80's outside temp.
Revived a really old one! Nice to see the difference with the healamp/grill intake.

Take a look at the intial post on this one. That test proved 10 years ago that the stock airbox is just as good if not better than an aftermarket CAI. Just adding a high flow filter is all you really need.
 

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Yeah sorry about that. All of this is new to me, so I was happy to share corroborating results!
 

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Here is picture of mine. 2013 with a hellcat air filter box. The outside air is the same as the incoming air at the throttle body entrances.
 

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Here is picture of mine. 2013 with a hellcat air filter box. The outside air is the same as the incoming air at the throttle body entrances.
Im apologizes for the lateness. Here is my layout a whole Hellcat air box assembly wrapped in an aluminum foil installation with a 4" air tube sprayed with heat resisted paint, wrapped with header wrap, Hellcat throttle body and adapter. The heat soak is very little. On hot day while driving the intake air is the same as the outside temp, 30 to 142 mph. It will raise when i set at a light or drive thru but not much more then 20 degrees on average. Not the prettiest girl on the but it keeps the temp down. Any ideas on how to improve, let me know.

20200308_172936.jpg
20200308_172941.jpg
 

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2015 Challenger R/T Plus 8 Speed
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Old thread I know but why start a new one. I noticed Yesterday, it was 87 out and my intake air temp was 140+since my Whipple install on my 5.7L, is this freaking normal? The intercooler is full and the pump is running. I turned the car off and put it in "run" with the engine off and using the "Cool Down" feature on the Tazer, the temp only went UP! Does anyone know of anyone in N.E. Ohio area that would install a Killer Chiller set up? My tuner says they are "junk". Should I install 2 "pusher fans" on my intercooler?

EDIT: I run the stock Hellcat Lower box and the stock R/T lid and the Hellcat air catcher tube.
 

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2011 R/T 6M Bright White, 590whp 490wtq, Whipple 10psi, 274 cam, 1 7/8 LT headers, 429 gears
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Old thread I know but why start a new one. I noticed Yesterday, it was 87 out and my intake air temp was 140+since my Whipple install on my 5.7L, is this freaking normal? The intercooler is full and the pump is running. I turned the car off and put it in "run" with the engine off and using the "Cool Down" feature on the Tazer, the temp only went UP! Does anyone know of anyone in N.E. Ohio area that would install a Killer Chiller set up? My tuner says they are "junk". Should I install 2 "pusher fans" on my intercooler?

EDIT: I run the stock Hellcat Lower box and the stock R/T lid and the Hellcat air catcher tube.
On the Whipple the IAT sensor is actually in the intake so you are measuring actual air temp going into the cylinder not ambient air temp. Whipple has one of the best intercooler setups on the market. I don't think you can do any better. Assume you seen the 140 not really running the engine very fast/hard? 140 isn't a crazy hot reading at the intake manifold.
 

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On the Whipple the IAT sensor is actually in the intake so you are measuring actual air temp going into the cylinder not ambient air temp. Whipple has one of the best intercooler setups on the market. I don't think you can do any better. Assume you seen the 140 not really running the engine very fast/hard? 140 isn't a crazy hot reading at the intake manifold.
I took the free way, made a couple 60 to 110ish pulls, drove it normal on city streets for about 5 miles from the off ramp to my house. Pulling in the drive I brought the temp up and about had a heart attack. I know boost adds heat but I thought the inner cooler would keep it close to ambient????

I am still learning, this is my first boosted car and I only had it back for 2 weeks.
 

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2011 R/T 6M Bright White, 590whp 490wtq, Whipple 10psi, 274 cam, 1 7/8 LT headers, 429 gears
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I took the free way, made a couple 60 to 110ish pulls, drove it normal on city streets for about 5 miles from the off ramp to my house. Pulling in the drive I brought the temp up and about had a heart attack. I know boost adds heat but I thought the inner cooler would keep it close to ambient????

I am still learning, this is my first boosted car and I only had it back for 2 weeks.
I've been there!!!

I just pulled up one of my logs, I'm typically running between 130 and 140.
 

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2020 Dodge Challenger Hellraisin Scat Pack
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Old thread I know but why start a new one. I noticed Yesterday, it was 87 out and my intake air temp was 140+since my Whipple install on my 5.7L, is this freaking normal? The intercooler is full and the pump is running. I turned the car off and put it in "run" with the engine off and using the "Cool Down" feature on the Tazer, the temp only went UP! Does anyone know of anyone in N.E. Ohio area that would install a Killer Chiller set up? My tuner says they are "junk". Should I install 2 "pusher fans" on my intercooler?

EDIT: I run the stock Hellcat Lower box and the stock R/T lid and the Hellcat air catcher tube.
That is the best one can hope for with a liquid cooled charge cooler. The pro is the "plumbing" is easier and the charger cooler is not as big -- in the case of the Hellcat not as high/tall -- but the efficiency of lowering air temperature after the supercharger is lower.

With my Hellcat IAT was around 40F above ambient. In town was "harder" as the low speed driving caused the engine coolant and oil temperature to go up and the air through the radiator only heated up the intake/supercharger even more.

The charge cooler coolant temperature was low, about 10F above ambient. So at least the coolant to air cooling is pretty good and there's nothing to really gain there.

Have to mention at least one previous car with 2 turbos used air cooled charge coolers. One per bank/turbo.

These were much more efficient with the result the post turbo/post charge cooler air temperature was around 10F above ambient.

But the "plumbing" to route air from the air box/filter box to the turbos then from the turbos to the air to air charge coolers then from these back to the engine intake was a real complicated system. Each charger cooler was mounted in the air flow from a dedicated "scoop" located on either side of the car just ahead of the rear fender bulges. With the engine out of the car -- not mine but a representative car -- the amount of intake air tubing was huge. I've seen less air tubing in an air craft carrier.
 

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And from a KB running 12.5psi I am around 130F at start line holds 135F through 1/4 mile run, sneaks up a little to 138/140F at start of return road and back to 130F by the time back to pits.
 
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I was watching a Leah Pritchet video, they get theirs down to 55 degrees in the pits on her drag pack. I need that setup. :D
 

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I saw my IATs hit 160 at the track last Sunday. When you shut the car off it actually "cooks" the fluid that's now stuck in the intercooler bricks from the heat of the motor since it is no longer flowing. What you'll notice is once you turn the car back on and it starts flowing, IATs will drop around 30°F.
A lot of the interchiller kits are kinda garbage, but there is one that's good. It's very expensive though which makes it garbage lol
As long as IATs under boost don't exceed 40°F over ambient you're perfectly fine
 

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I saw my IATs hit 160 at the track last Sunday. When you shut the car off it actually "cooks" the fluid that's now stuck in the intercooler bricks from the heat of the motor since it is no longer flowing. What you'll notice is once you turn the car back on and it starts flowing, IATs will drop around 30°F.
A lot of the interchiller kits are kinda garbage, but there is one that's good. It's very expensive though which makes it garbage lol
As long as IATs under boost don't exceed 40°F over ambient you're perfectly fine
I was in my driveway with the key on so the pump was running and used the Tazer to run the fan (Cool Down Mode)
 

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I was in my driveway with the key on so the pump was running and used the Tazer to run the fan (Cool Down Mode)
Your pump runs with just key on? Magnuson had me wire mine to the injector fuse so it only runs with the engine running so you don't kill the battery. Either way once a positive displacement blower is hot, it takes a long time to cool down without an ice box. You could try burping the system again
 

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2011 R/T 6M Bright White, 590whp 490wtq, Whipple 10psi, 274 cam, 1 7/8 LT headers, 429 gears
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Your pump runs with just key on? Magnuson had me wire mine to the injector fuse so it only runs with the engine running so you don't kill the battery. Either way once a positive displacement blower is hot, it takes a long time to cool down without an ice box. You could try burping the system again
JD40... Do you mind sharing that connection setup? do you have a diagram? Mine runs as soon as the key is on I would like to change that. I either connect a battery charger or disconnect the pump when I load tunes. That drawl while loading tunes makes me nervous.
 

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JD40... Do you mind sharing that connection setup? do you have a diagram? Mine runs as soon as the key is on I would like to change that. I either connect a battery charger or disconnect the pump when I load tunes. That drawl while loading tunes makes me nervous.
Try to see if this link works, or just go on Magnuson website and download the instructions there. Steps 118-126 show how to set up the wire. You're just setting the remote wire to a fuse that is only powered when the injectors are firing.
 
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So now my car is running 147 (I data logged it) and is running rich, could this be because I switched to an open filter (T/A style) regardless I am swapping back tonight and I got ahold of my tuner 2 days ago.
 

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So now my car is running 147 (I data logged it) and is running rich, could this be because I switched to an open filter (T/A style) regardless I am swapping back tonight and I got ahold of my tuner 2 days ago.
What part of Ohio are you in?
 
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