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I used to lift the front by the lift points (aftermarket lift pucks come in handy here)
http://www.challengertalk.com/forums/288523-post2.html

and then place the jack stand at the crimp weld (again aftermarket lift pucks come in handy here). For the rear I would lift by the diff (used a piece of wood to protect the fins) and place the stands at the rear rubber bumps.

But I now lift from the front cradle using a jack bar, and still place the stands at the crimp welds.
http://www.challengertalk.com/forums/8107298-post16.html

If I have to work under the car I use 12" wheel cribs.
 

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I put mine where the lower control arm meets the sub frame. This keeps the control arm hanging low for easier access to the caliper.

FYI, brake-pad change on this car is one of the easiest I've ever done. Not like Hondas and some of those GM cars from the 90's, where you needed a 1/2 lb of axle grease and an array of various sized hammers to gently coax the pads into the calipers.
 

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I put mine where the lower control arm meets the sub frame. This keeps the control arm hanging low for easier access to the caliper.

FYI, brake-pad change on this car is one of the easiest I've ever done. Not like Hondas and some of those GM cars from the 90's, where you needed a 1/2 lb of axle grease and an array of various sized hammers to gently coax the pads into the calipers.
If you are referring to this spot, yup I have used them as a spot for jack stands but now I use it as my lift points with my jack bar.
 

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Right behind those locations in the picture above there is a small triangle on the frame rail. This is the factory intended place to put a jack stand. I use the pinch weld to lift by and put the stand there. Works well.

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2015 SRT392 A8 in white pearl coat
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Is there something on the market that replaces the typical flat pad on a floor jack that allows it to be used on the Challenger jack points?
I have two jacks: a cheaper one that has lost its rubber pad, and a much better one with a rubber lift pad like what you were hoping for buy for your jack. However, I use this same idea on both. I don't want to cut up the rubber lift pad on my good jack, as lifting any car with it can and will cut up that rubber pad. It still looks new because I use a hockey puck to do my lifts. I ordered it online from Dick's Sporting Goods for 2 bucks.
[/url]image by gary house, on Flickr[/IMG]

Notice how it deforms under the weight of the car. This keeps it from slipping. This picture shows the front pinch weld lift point and my own homemade jack pad. A similar one is available here: CLICKY
 

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FRONT: On crossbeam...
REARS: on rubber puck...


This is on my 2015...
 

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Thanks of the pictures, Jack44.
One problem with pinch weld lift adapters might be the plastic rocker panel on our Challengers. It sits tight against the outside of the pinch weld and must be bent out of the way to accommodate any pinch weld adapter or lift pad. Part of why I made my own.
 

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Pictures, and my jacking up care, using the frame or on rubber jack point...Couldn't be more simple ...
 

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Right behind those locations in the picture above there is a small triangle on the frame rail. This is the factory intended place to put a jack stand. I use the pinch weld to lift by and put the stand there. Works well.
I tried many methods to raise and support the Challenger with floor jack(s). My ideas all had disadvantages, as a last resort I decided to try following instructions in the manual as stated by steve37887 and jack on the pinch weld points (using a home made hockey puck adapter similar to the one garyahouse made) and place the jack stands at the points at the points depicted in Jack44's photos. Fortunately I have 2 floor jacks which makes it easy to lift the front place the jack stands then lift the rear and place the jack stands. If jacking the rear to put on drag radials I will jack on the rear end cross member where the lower arms attach.

In any case, Challengers are not the easiest car to raise with a floor jack.
 
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