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Discussion Starter #1
Can I use a jack stand with a pinch weld adapter in the middle of the car to lift one side and then place jack stands, then do the same on the opposite side to get all 4 wheels off the ground? When I tried jacking at each corner, i would get the jack as close to the lift point as possible then slide the jack stand under the point, but doing that didn’t seem to work very well.
 

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Also a huge decrease in safety in trying to put the car up on 4 jackstands. Just wondering why you want to do this?


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please dont.
jack front then rear, get both sides of the front end of the car on stands, then do the rear end.
its generally front to rear, wheels choked, never side to side. asking for disaster from a multitude of ways.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
please dont.
jack front then rear, get both sides of the front end of the car on stands, then do the rear end.
its generally front to rear, wheels choked, never side to side. asking for disaster from a multitude of ways.
Where do you position the jack to get the front end up? I know some people use the diff for the rear, which I’m not super comfortable with but I guess if other people do it without problem... but where do you jack the front from?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
2 pinch weld indents ea. side. One behind front wheel and other in front of rear wheel.
Those won’t life the entire front end or rear end unless you’re lifting from passenger and driver side at the same time.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I lift one side, place a jack stand then lift the other side and jack stand.
Gotcha. I misunderstood, thought you were replying to my question about lifting front end. Apparently you’re the only one who lifts the car one side at a time, according to everyone who responded to this thread.
so lifting at the front pinch weld location (just inside) will get the entire side off the ground?
 

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Normally you don't lift a Challenger by the pinch weld at all, unless you're changing a flat tire and using the car's provided jack which is small enough to avoid bending the rocker cladding. The best and strongest lift points are the black puck-shaped things ahead of the rear wheels, and the unibody frame rails for the front.

Let's suppose you want to get the entire car off the ground and on jack stands. You lift one corner at a time with a jack, place your jack stand and move to the next. Just don't go to the opposite corner next. Do one rear, then the other rear. Then the front. Just never lift by the middle of the pinch weld, or you will fold the car. If you don't know what you're doing or you're unsure, please don't attempt it without experienced help.
 

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Normally you don't lift a Challenger by the pinch weld at all, unless you're changing a flat tire and using the car's provided jack which is small enough to avoid bending the rocker cladding. The best and strongest lift points are the black puck-shaped things ahead of the rear wheels, and the unibody frame rails for the front.

Let's suppose you want to get the entire car off the ground and on jack stands. You lift one corner at a time with a jack, place your jack stand and move to the next. Just don't go to the opposite corner next. Do one rear, then the other rear. Then the front. Just never lift by the middle of the pinch weld, or you will fold the car. If you don't know what you're doing or you're unsure, please don't attempt it without experienced help.
THIS^ is how I do it as well.
never have lifted a car via pinch weld. yes I know many do. I lift by the craddle up front, one side at a time. then rear side puck on the back or (on the challengers) a center diff lift.
If you lift the rear off the ground 1st, at a certain point the car is only on the front tires with a (forward) shifted center of gravity, which even if chocked, can roll out &/or off chocks or roll on the fronts & jack.
Not a risk I want to take. Ive seen cars fall off jacks, racks and stands. normally not pretty.
I was taught to get the front end up 1st with rear wheels chocked front & back, car in gear/park, e-brake on for any rear wheel drive car, then lift the rear. Never once had a car unintentionally go to the ground on me.
A side to side lift off on all 4, is likley to go very badly with a 4000+ lb car.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
THIS^ is how I do it as well.
never have lifted a car via pinch weld. I lift by the craddle up front, one side at a time. then rear side puck on the back for the challengers (other cars vary) but always 1 side at a time - 1 lift point at a time until the car is up. If you lift the rear 1st, at a certain point the car is on the front tires, which even if chocked, can/could roll out &/or off chocks. Not a risk I want to take.
I was taught to get the front end up 1st, rear wheels chocked and car in gear/park, e-brake on for rear wheel drive cars, then lift the rear.
Right but if you lift with the jack on the “puck”, one at a time, how do you get the jack stand under the puck since your hydraulic jack is using it as a lift point? I know you said you lift by the cradle in front, but what about the rear?
 

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You can lift with a standard size floor jack right behind the factory pinch weld in the designated areas front and rear. Then put a stand inboard on the front and right next to the jack in the rear. Front then back.
Picture shows both. Lift at points circled in red then stands where the lift arms are.
Done for years on my challenger and charger...no problems. No need for pinch weld adapters or pucks.


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my problem is, if I put the floor jack on the lift point, I do not have enough roof to get the floor jack under the pinch weld. My jack and jack stands are just too big or something.
 

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As for jack points, IF there is room to get it under, I ALWAYS jack from suspension points, they hold the car up anyway, so no more body flex, and if the jack rub causes rust years later, it is on bolt on parts, not body seams. There are nice jack adapters to spread to 2 points for side jacking. If I was going to put on 4 stands (nothing wrong with that) I would do it end to end, not side to side, if I had room.
 

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Better idea to get the car up quicker


Floor jack goes under front subframe (frame bar closes to the nose) , and you can set jackstands on the same subframe tucked on the sides


Then jack up the diff from the back


I would not do one side at a time, rather front and back
 
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