Dodge Challenger Forum banner

1 - 20 of 27 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Made an appointment and dropped off my 2010 R/T (33K miles) at the dealer yesterday morning right when they opened, after experiencing the same symptoms I have read on many thread here: stuck gear when parked, shifting getting harder over time, etc. This has been getting worse over for the last month or so. I Told them how to replicate the problem, gave them both Star Center case #K38556860 and #S1021000004, and even offered to show them in person. I also explained that after it gets stuck I can roll the car in neutral and drive around as much as I want and it will still not pop out unless I really force it out.

Late in the afternoon (9.5 hours later) they call back and say what I am experiencing is all normal and they all do this. I tried explaining its a common issue and doing a simple Google search with "Challenger Stuck Gear" will show pages upon pages of this issue already addressed. When I asked if they looked at the Star Center numbers, they said neither applied to my vehicle because they were about going into a gear and not out ?

The remarks on the invoice I got back says:
"INSPECTED AND FOUND THAT WHEN THE VEHICLE IS IN PARK ON INCLINE AND LEFT IN GEAR THE GEARS ARE LEFT IN BIND WHICH IS NORMAL CONDITION"

The dealer also inspected the parking brake and wrote:
"INSPECTED AND CHECKED HOLD OF PARKING BRAKE SYSTEM. BRAKES ARE HOLDING CORRECTLY"

Called another dealer the next town over and they said over the phone it was also normal, but would check it out anyways if I insisted. Currently have an appointment for them to look at in on 12/26.

Am I going crazy here or does something not seem right? I have driven manuals as a DD for 15+ years and never had these symptoms before. It just seems dangerous that if I were to have to park on the side of the road for an emergency, I wouldn't be able to shift and accelerate into traffic.

Any thought on how to get this resolved other than keep going to different dealers?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,492 Posts
If you can reproduce it getting stuck in gear then that will go a long way.

All I had to do was have the tech get in the car, pull forward about 10 feet so there was a slight incline, shut the engine off with it in gear, clutch out, e-brake off...and it wouldn't come out of gear with the clutch depressed. That isn't normal. I then showed him that with my feet off the brakes and clutch pedal depressed that the car would jump forward when started because the clutch wasn't disengaging.

The Star cases should be about getting stuck in gear, not being unable to get it in gear. It's "customer is dumb" syndrome combined with people not reading the cases properly. I had the same problem with the airbag lights, took it back 3 times (Not including the recall itself) and on the 3rd trip, after telling them the previous two times to look at the Star case, they finally listened and did the fix in the Star case (after replacing airbags twice) and, like magic, the problem never came back.

I didn't have any luck with the Star cases for my clutch (wrong model year), it took showing the tech the actual problem...and then they still made me pay for a new clutch kit. :(

Good luck!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
968 Posts
Did they check the slave cylinder for proper operation? Clutch fluid level ok and fluid fresh? Clutch system worn?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,492 Posts
Did they check the slave cylinder for proper operation? Clutch fluid level ok and fluid fresh? Clutch system worn?
The slave is actually a hydraulic actuator that's part of the throwout bearing, there's not much to check without removing the trans.

The clutch fluid is shared with the brake fluid reservoir and the clutch is also a self-bleeding system.

The short of it is that if it's getting stuck in gear then the clutch isn't disengaging properly and the trans needs to be pulled to inspect/clean/replace various parts.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,492 Posts
Here's the actuator/throwout bearing (#1 in the diagram).

 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
244 Posts
Mine did the same thing. I have a 2010 R/T and I 'am the original owner. Cluch went out over the summer with only 10513 miles on it....yes you are reading that correctly 10513 miles!!!!!! Anyways so I take it to a the dealership on a flat bed b/c the only way it would shift is when I turned the car off.


So the dealership took the transmission out and inspected everything and they found that the clutch was bad and not just bad but was the clutch fingers were not even inspec and should of never left the factory. The first thing the service rep at the dealership asked me was "you don't drive this car very hard do you" I told him no not really it is just something that I drive around in the summer time with the kids, he then goes on and tells me the clutch looks great and he could tell the car was never driven hard and beaten on. Since the car was out of warranty I had to fight with Chrysler to pay for evrything, we ended up coming to an agreement that I pay $500 and everythting else Chrysler would take care of.

I wish you the best of luck and I hope everything works out for you and please keep us posted.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
253 Posts
Well both those Star Cases involve pulling the transmission to complete and from reading them its either just greasing and replacing the pressure plate bolts. With that being said just a few questions...

1- Is your car still under 3/36? (In which case its sometimes difficult to get covered unless you have them duplicate in person) - not to mention your clutch is out of warranty based on year anyway.

2- If you are out of 3/36... its on your tab and if its a problem I personally would quote you to remove the transmission and replace the clutch components with what you want, either O/E or A/M.

So...at 33k just get the clutch replaced?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
253 Posts
You know whats hard working for a Dealer, when everyone expects its FREE and its NOT!
Talk about a No Win situation and the aftermarket people look like heroes!

I just keep swinging the bat. :icon7:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,492 Posts
Well both those Star Cases involve pulling the transmission to complete and from reading them its either just greasing and replacing the pressure plate bolts. With that being said just a few questions...

1- Is your car still under 3/36? (In which case its sometimes difficult to get covered unless you have them duplicate in person) - not to mention your clutch is out of warranty based on year anyway.

2- If you are out of 3/36... its on your tab and if its a problem I personally would quote you to remove the transmission and replace the clutch components with what you want, either O/E or A/M.

So...at 33k just get the clutch replaced?
The clutch, if covered (manual says never covered, but I guess others have had it covered), would only fall under the 12mo/12k warranty and the 2010 R/Ts have a 5/100 powertrain warranty. However, some people have been able to get the problem fixed, including a new clutch, outside of the 12/12 warranty if it's the grease issue since it's a documented problem for multiple vehicles.

Definitely worth trying to get covered under warranty, but if not then parts + labor will run about $1100-$1300 or so to have the trans pulled, things cleaned/lubed up, and a new OEM clutch kit installed (If needed. About $450 from Steve White, $650 or so from your local dealer).
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
968 Posts
The slave is actually a hydraulic actuator that's part of the throwout bearing, there's not much to check without removing the trans.

The clutch fluid is shared with the brake fluid reservoir and the clutch is also a self-bleeding system.

The short of it is that if it's getting stuck in gear then the clutch isn't disengaging properly and the trans needs to be pulled to inspect/clean/replace various parts.
That's similar to how the hydraulics were setup on my old SRT-10 Ram with the T56, 6 spd. The exception on the truck is they used a separate reservoir for the clutch and didn't share hydraulic lines with the brakes. The common failure on those trucks was the actuator (the truck crowd called it a slave cylinder...). It was made of plastic, yes plastic and the high temps quickly failed the unit. Mine developed a very small leak and one day after work I got in and depressed the clutch --- surprise, surprise, straight to the floor it went -- tow truck time. The T56's had a small inspection panel that could be removed at the bell housing but it too was worthless -- to small of an opening and you really couldn't see anything to pin point a problem. Pulling the trans was the only way to diagnose the problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
If you can reproduce it getting stuck in gear then that will go a long way.
I offered to get in the car and show them, but they refused. When I take it in to the other dealer next week, I will insist on it so we don't waste each others time. Thanks for tip!

Well both those Star Cases involve pulling the transmission to complete and from reading them its either just greasing and replacing the pressure plate bolts. With that being said just a few questions...

1- Is your car still under 3/36? (In which case its sometimes difficult to get covered unless you have them duplicate in person) - not to mention your clutch is out of warranty based on year anyway.

2- If you are out of 3/36... its on your tab and if its a problem I personally would quote you to remove the transmission and replace the clutch components with what you want, either O/E or A/M.

So...at 33k just get the clutch replaced?
The 3/36 ended back in June, but I still have the powertrain warranty. I honestly thought I would have problems getting them to cover this under the warranty, not whether or not the problem even exist. The impression I am getting so far is that the dealers just do not want to do the work, but I could be wrong. To me the clutch feels fine and I do not track or hoon the car, so unless it looks worn down after taking down the trans, I will probably keep whats on there right now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
84 Posts
I am currently fighting this battle with my 2010 R/T as well. It started doing it around 21K, but I couldn't ever get the dealer to acknowledge it. Now, at 42K it's getting bad enough that I have concerns with driving it in heavy traffic as it's not only hard to get out of gear, but hard to get into gear as well.

I called up the dealer and they said they had experience with it and that it would be covered by my power train warranty "no problem." However, once they looked at it and confirmed that this is indeed the problem, they changed their story and now tell me it will be $400 to fix.

Besides the irritation, I was surprised by their sudden change of heart as I figured my power train or at the very least, my MaxCare extended warranty would cover it since this is after-all, a manufacturer's defect. However, Dodge is saying I am on my own since the dealer has since changed their story to "there was no problem" (even though I have the service writer on tape telling me he agreed with me about the issue and would go to bat for me with Chrysler to get it fixed).

Gotta love dealing with a**holes...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
84 Posts
I am currently fighting this battle with my 2010 R/T as well. It started doing it around 21K, but I couldn't ever get the dealer to acknowledge it. Now, at 42K it's getting bad enough that I have concerns with driving it in heavy traffic as it's not only hard to get out of gear, but hard to get into gear as well.
I have a 2010 R/T and it started just now at 20K. Interesting you got away with it 'til 42K. I might just wait it out if it's not clear they're gonna cover this.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,224 Posts
This is what I did.

I have a 2010 R/T and it started just now at 20K. Interesting you got away with it 'til 42K. I might just wait it out if it's not clear they're gonna cover this.

Just had my 2009 R/T with 37K miles and sticky shifting fixed under lifetime powertrain warranty that came standard when I purchased the car new. Went to my local Dodge dealer with the above STARR case number and took the Service Manager for a ride. I got the shifter stuck in reverse and had the Service Manager try to pull back on the shift handle. That was all he needed see. After cleaning and greasing input shaft/splines, my car shifts buttery smooth, better than new. Big shout out to Troncalli Dodge in Cumming, GA for taking care of this. They did a great job. Below is the STARR case # info.



Case Number: S1021000004

Release Date: 2010-11-04

Symptom/Vehicle Issue:

Transmission is hard to shift into and out of any gear when stopped.


Diagnosis:
When the vehicle is running, but at an idle, verify the vehicle condition by depressing the clutch pedal and attempting to position the transmission gear selector into any gear. If there is difficulty when


attempting to shift into any gear, perform the outlined repair procedure. Excessive grease on the input

shaft splines collecting excessive amounts of dirt which does not allow smooth movement of the

clutch disc on the input shaft.




Parts Required:
1 P/N 05083150AA , (Grease) As required.
2 P/N 06508880AA , (Clutch Pressure Plate Bolts) 6 Required

Repair Procedure:


1 Remove the transmission as outlined in the service procedures.

2 Clean the transmission clutch hub splines and input shaft splines with mineral spirits.
3 Remove the pressure plate and clutch disc as outlined in the service procedures.


4 Clean the splines on the pressure plate with mineral spirits. Be sure to not allow clutch disc

to become saturated with cleaner.

5 Once the residual solvent has evaporated from the splines on the clutch hub, input shaft
and clutch disc, sparingly grease the entire length of the clutch hub and input shaft splines.
6 Install the pressure plate and clutch disc as outlined in the service procedures. Be sure to
use new pressure plate bolts during re-assembly.





Verification:


Bring vehicle to operating temperature. When at an idle, depress the clutch and attempt to move gearshift into each gear. There should be no resistance and the gearshift should move freely into all gear positions.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
So I went back in December to another dealer the next county over. When I got there, I parked it not even on an include and it got stuck right away. Went inside and explained to them a bit more about it getting stuck and not letting me shift into/out of gears while driving, but they refused to accept the 2 STARR cases. I did manage to talk them into a ride along though. They came back to me about 20 minutes later, after they test drove it, and found nothing wrong. Got the mechanic in the passenger seat and we went for a drive. Showed him what was going on, but he was pretty persistent that it was all normal. He then went on to tell me that they are design to lock in place and not let you shift when you are parked for safety reasons. When I asked him why it stays stuck after and i can still drive around with it stuck when not even parked/off, he tells me that these transmissions are different than the ones we are use to and to just rock it a little to get it out....right there I knew this was going nowhere so I said thanks and went back home.

To all of you that have had luck getting this fixed, mad props to you :thumbsup:. I guess I am just going to have to deal with this until it gets to the point I can't drive it anymore and have the job done at a local shop.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,224 Posts
How far away is the next closest Dodge dealer to you? Sounds like you need a different dealer!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Next couple are 40 and 65 miles is opposite directions. At this point, I think its more of finding a dealer that is already aware of this issue and willing to do the labor though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
An update on this....

In February, I sent a certified letter to Dodge explaining the problem,the responses from the dealers, and a copy of both cases. A month later I have not heard anything back,so I sent an email with a copy/paste of the letter and got a phone call the next day. Ended up making an appointment with another dealer (through the dodge rep) and dropped the car off on Monday.

Today I got a call back from the dealer saying they drove it for three days straight and found nothing wrong. Tomorrow I am planning on stopping by in the morning and showing them in person. They also mentioned that the cases were only in reference to a small batch of 2009 models and that my 2010 should not be affected.

I guess its looking more like I will just have to get it done myself...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
481 Posts
I am currently fighting this battle with my 2010 R/T as well. It started doing it around 21K, but I couldn't ever get the dealer to acknowledge it. Now, at 42K it's getting bad enough that I have concerns with driving it in heavy traffic as it's not only hard to get out of gear, but hard to get into gear as well.

I called up the dealer and they said they had experience with it and that it would be covered by my power train warranty "no problem." However, once they looked at it and confirmed that this is indeed the problem, they changed their story and now tell me it will be $400 to fix.

Besides the irritation, I was surprised by their sudden change of heart as I figured my power train or at the very least, my MaxCare extended warranty would cover it since this is after-all, a manufacturer's defect. However, Dodge is saying I am on my own since the dealer has since changed their story to "there was no problem" (even though I have the service writer on tape telling me he agreed with me about the issue and would go to bat for me with Chrysler to get it fixed).

Gotta love dealing with a**holes...
Mine was fixed under warranty, all covered w rental car called "Customer car" took a few weeks for them to say ok we'll fix it.. said it was a "safety issue"!:fight:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
329 Posts
These dealers are incredible. I had the problem of the transmission sticking in gear and moving with the clutch to the floor. I could not reproduce it at will, but did stop by the dealer and explained it to them. They had not heard of it happening at that time.
Left for Iraq for 90 days and kept up with the forum. Noticed the TSB on the sticking issue, called the service manager from IQ and then called their shop foreman/lead tech who is very knowledgeable and crazy about our cars. He went over to my place, got the keys from my wife, took it in - fixed the problem and had it back in my garage the same day. Absolutely no charge.
So I wish you luck with this and just keep calling Dodge because the problem does exist and they are aware of it.
 
1 - 20 of 27 Posts
Top