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Discussion Starter #1
So after about 4k miles with my KB (17k overall) my power steering pump failed. It was leaking like crazy. I thought it might have been just a hose leak but the techs at Dodge took a look at it and concluded that the pump failed. At first they were gonna try to do it under warranty but then higher up got involved and wanted to get Chrysler involved. I ended up paying cost for the job after the service manager saw my KB and wanted to call Chrysler for warranty approval, which we all know is more likely than not-not going to be approved.

Which brings me to: when the pump fails again I am not gonna go with an OE replacement. I was wondering if there is a heavy duty or performance replacement. I'm thinking the KB is just making the pump spin way to fast or maybe its possible the seal just failed. IDK. Either way, I feel like I have to putt around town so the **** doesnt brake.

Also, there was power steering fluid all over my belt. Is there any way to clean it up or should I just buy a new one? How easy is it to replace the belt?

Thanks in Advance fellas
 

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Does the KB run on it's own independent belt system like the Techo? I thought it did but never looked close enough at one to be sure. If so I'm not sure how the KB would have affected the PS.

Even if they share a belt, I don't see why it would affect it. The only thing that would make it spin faster is if you put on a smaller crank pulley or something, or raised the rev limit.

My Maggie shares the belt with all the accessories. I've got a 18% OD crank pulley AND I'm revving to 6800 RPMs. I've not had any issues thus far with anything.
 

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A larger crank pulley would cause the accessories to spin faster, whereas a smaller one would cause the accessories to spin slower. This is the first I heard of the issue. Might just have been a seal failure unrelated to the supercharger.
 

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I've had PS problems also. At first i thought it was "air" in the system due to the engine swap when we cracked the circuit during install. Went to the Dodoge Garage and we followed the procedure to bleed it. It seemed to get better but still a couple "flat" spots when you go lock to lock with the steering wheel. When summer rolls around and I can put a few more miles on it and bleed again, we'll see. My gut tells me I'll need a new pump.
 

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If you're runnign a stock KB setup with the stock crank pulley then no. If you're running an overdrive crank pulley then yes, it will cause it to fall over time.
Is there an upgrade one you'd recommend to those of us running overdrive crank pulleys?
 

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I replaced several p/s pumps that failed on SRT experience cars.The engines were stock,just driven hard at the track.The japenese pumps(Toyoda)don't hold up to abuse.Never seen one fail on a street driven stock NA engine.They should flush out the p/s lines & cooler when your pump is replaced.Make sure that your p/s lines aren't kinked around the intercooler area.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for all the input fellas. Hopefully this pump holds up
 

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mine has yet to fail at 14psi with 17% overdrive. I have heard of them failing also the ac compresser failing.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
gotta pay to play. next time I'm buying a factory supercharged car.
 

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If you're runnign a stock KB setup with the stock crank pulley then no. If you're running an overdrive crank pulley then yes, it will cause it to fall over time.

Yes sir, this is the one of the reasons Tim offers his 8 rib belt conversion package and why I built the KB stand alone drive system. Not only does it play hell on the PS, but the alternator as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Cam, as far as I know Adam at STM didn't say anything about about an overdrive cranl pulley. Should be a stock set-up.

So my alternator is next huh?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
hahaha, thats true. Lock to lock is not good
 

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Yes sir, this is the one of the reasons Tim offers his 8 rib belt conversion package and why I built the KB stand alone drive system. Not only does it play hell on the PS, but the alternator as well.
This makes no sense!

8 rib or stand alone drive are to address belt slip issues at higher boost not PS or alternator wear?
Unless your saying the angle of the belt causes bearing failure(sounds unlikely) Tim said no issues if stock crank drive is used. What am I missing?

No problems with mine but it's only been 5 months.
 

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This makes no sense!

8 rib or stand alone drive are to address belt slip issues at higher boost not PS or alternator wear?
Unless your saying the angle of the belt causes bearing failure(sounds unlikely) Tim said no issues if stock crank drive is used. What am I missing?

No problems with mine but it's only been 5 months.
Sorry, I was on a phone, so long drawn out replies suck.

It was my understanding from an affiliate of Mr. Norms that they made the 8 rib conversion pulley diameters smaller to compensate for the additional RPM of the larger damper pulley. Now for the PS pump and the water pump, that's easy. But for the alternator, not so much.

Your right, the system was designed to deal with the slippage issue, but other items were taken into account.

If you're runnning a stock size damper, there is no issue. But if you're increasing the size of the drive pulley, you will have issues at some point. Normal day to day driving will be fine, but stay at substained high RPM and it will become a problem.

Does that make a little more sense now?.

BTW, I've blown out 6 pumps to date and I don't run a blower. Lock to lock at max RPM will kill them in a heartbeat.
 

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I could deal with a PS pump or maybe even an alternator failure. I doubt those parts are that expensive to replace every so often.

AC compressor on the other hand....ugh. 1st time mine goes out I'll be going back to a stock dia crank pulley. I'm 17% OD now with the 7.53" ATI Super Damper. Had it almost a year along with a 6800 RPM rev limit for about 6 months.
 

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I could deal with a PS pump or maybe even an alternator failure. I doubt those parts are that expensive to replace every so often.

AC compressor on the other hand....ugh. 1st time mine goes out I'll be going back to a stock dia crank pulley. I'm 17% OD now with the 7.53" ATI Super Damper. Had it almost a year along with a 6800 RPM rev limit for about 6 months.

PS pump run from $120 RT- $220SRT
Alt $225 +
And you get lucky on the AC comp, it disengages the clutch at WOT.

The PS pump for the most part with survive normal and straight line driving. But substained high RPM with a load kills the high pressure O-ring, as in road racing or donuts.
 

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PS pump run from $120 RT- $220SRT
Alt $225 +
And you get lucky on the AC comp, it disengages the clutch at WOT.

The PS pump for the most part with survive normal and straight line driving. But substained high RPM with a load kills the high pressure O-ring, as in road racing or donuts.
If it's just the O ring can it be rebuilt?
 

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If it's just the O ring can it be rebuilt?


I was never able to locate the right one. And ya, after about #2, I looked but didn't have much luck finding something that was just right. So instead I just joined the power steering pump of the month club and pay my dues everytime. BTW, when the internal HP seal blows, it takes out the low presure shaft seal too, but that can be purchased aftermarket.

Luckly my budget hasn't allowed for any burn out comps or road course days the last couple of years. The last burn out comp I did was route 66 2 years ago which I won the $1,000 first prize. Problem was, I did 3K worth of damage to the car. And for some strange reason, the wife didn't like the math. :browsmiley:
 
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