Dodge Challenger Forum banner

1 - 20 of 56 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
34 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Ladies and Gents,

I'd like to know what move you would make (surely, some of you have already actually made a decision like this). I have completely stock a 6 Speed 2010 R/T with 20K on it. I'll explain what I want to accomplish at the bottom.

Option 1: Kenne Belle 2.8LC, Zoomers. That's it. KB intel suggests the S/C on an otherwise a stock Challenger like mine should produce at least 475 at the wheels (hope I'm not missing anything here), which should be more than enough to accomplish what I want. To be performed at High Horse in DE.

Option 2: NA set up. Probably Arrington's "Power Package" (TB, ported heads, CAM), tune, and probably something else I'm forgetting but you get the idea. Alleged to add "up to" 108 HP. I live in MD, so I'd drive to Arrington's and have them handle it.

Option 3: Go back to the lot and trade up to an SRT, with the intention of using either option 1 or 2 on the new SRT.

What I want to accomplish: Put up a good showing with cars in my weight class and handily beat those I'm supposed to, on the street only.

I know "beat cars I'm supposed to" is subjective. I've never been to the track and probably won't take it there, and obviously I'm not taking her to the Nordschleife or anything. But when I'm flying around town and I get run up on by an opponent that I think I should take (even its close) I want to win. These "races" only tend to last for .1 to 3 miles max, varying with the levels of traffic.

My typical opponents seem to be 3 and 5 series Bimmers, old Acuras, and Infiniti G35's and G37's. Example: I had a go with a G37 the other day, and just barely edged him out. His nose was right around my side mirror. First time I've ever hit the rev limiter... That Acura's haven't been a real problem with my stock set up, but the Bimmers, tend to be problematic.

For the the opponents that step that maybe shouldn't (95 Acura TL's, Lexus RX350's), I want to beat them handily. If it's too close they start getting confidence, and I'm going to have to deal with them over an over. Need to learn respect. There's a Z06 I often see on my way to work, but as I much as I love my Challenger, I'm not stupid.

Let me know what you guys think. I will start a separate thread to discuss typical "opponents" people see around the country, have some questions about that too.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,641 Posts
Option 4

Get an SRT and add a Supercharger.
 
  • Like
Reactions: CiscoKid

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
173 Posts
Sell it. Get a 6.1. 426 it or blow it. I went the blower route (Vortech) with a few other fun things. I would say a 392, but the price difference for 50 horse power can get you a blower kit with a tune.
 
  • Like
Reactions: CiscoKid

·
Registered
Joined
·
880 Posts
I'm in Maryland too, Central Ave has seen me hand out ass whoopings.lol

Buy a 392 because they're ready to run from the jump plus a all around car ! Can always add bolt ons to make faster.

SC is a big mod that has a high risk/high reward so be prepared if shit breaks or snaps.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
173 Posts
SCs depend mostly on boost and tunes. There's a guy from speedlogix on here with thousands of miles on his Vortech. If it's done right and you maintain it properly, you'll be fine.
 
  • Like
Reactions: CiscoKid

·
Registered
‘13 Challenger SRT 6M
Joined
·
2,817 Posts
Not because I have one, but if I were in your shoes I'd go the SRT route. The 392 is a stroked 5.7. That being said, start with the most available cubes offered. That's the first thing. Secondly, once you make that move, then look at your other two choices that are left and see which one fits best into your new 392. My reasoning is that if you rebuild the top end on your RT; ported intake, ported/larger throttle body, cam, ported heads, (at this point you HAVE to do some sort of headers), you'll have some great gains. But now think if you did the same thing on a ride that started off with 95 more HP/TRQ!! The same goes for super charging weather it be centrifugal, twin rotor, or turbo. Also, you won't need headers, they have shorties, although I'd personally go with long tubes. And you would have all the "other stuff" that comes with an SRT; handling, brakes, steering wheel, seats... Good luck.


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 
  • Like
Reactions: CiscoKid

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,840 Posts
Start looking for an srt in late summer. A leftover 13 can be had for a great price. That's what I did and with the redesign just around the corner there will be good deals. Not to mention u will have a beast of a base to start on when u want to upgrade.

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 
  • Like
Reactions: CiscoKid

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
34 Posts
Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Thanks to everyone for your responses!

Looks like it's settled then, 12 or 13 SRT it is. I kind of figured the "start with the biggest base" was the best option. Just trying to cheap it out. But I can afford it, so I'll do it right.

@Breeeze: What color SRT am I looking out for on Central so I don't get mashed on too? lol


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
267 Posts
Thanks to everyone for your responses!

Looks like it's settled then, 12 or 13 SRT it is. I kind of figured the "start with the biggest base" was the best option. Just trying to cheap it out. But I can afford it, so I'll do it right.

@Breeeze: What color SRT am I looking out for on Central so I don't get mashed on too? lol
...then you're choosing the WRONG way to go!!

Lets break it down --

YOUR OPT 1: S/C your 5.7 = ~470whp = call it $10,000.00

YOUR OPT 2: Built N/A 5.7 = ~450whp = approx. $11,000.00

YOUR OPT 3: Buy SRT+Mods = ~420whp = call it around $20,000.00 trade-in (+$10-$11k mods)

Clearly the best "cheap it out" option is to get boosted and call it a day!

My (conservative 5# tuned) 2012 S/Ced 5.7 beats Cadillac CTS-Vs and V-10 equipped BMW M5s....that's our weight class! Smokes Mustangs and Camaros (and SRT8s) all day long as well.....(watch the GT500s and LZ1s though)

....Edelbrock, Magnacharger, KB, Vortec....all are good options for >450 whp for under 10 grand!!

Shy away from the 6.4s too! Don't let these SRT owners tell you to get the 392....takes new pistons to boost it properly! Do your homework ( that means more than just collecting forum peeps' opinions! - yes, even mine ) ;) Maybe if you *really* want to go the SRT route, wait til 2015 and see what the Hellcat brings first.
 
  • Like
Reactions: CiscoKid

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
34 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Yeah Beas I did due diligence...I've been crawling these threads like a champ the past few days, and I ran across the threads discussing the forged internals requirement for the 392s, amongst others debating the merits of polished heads and cams, and whether they deliver the performance numbers desired. And still countless others...

Don't worry,I haven't gone to the dealer yet:D

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
155 Posts
I was making the same decision back at the beginning of 2012. Had a 2011 RTC. I went with the SRT so I'd get all the breaking and suspension goodies along with more HP. Take a look at my mods list below, it cost me a little over 4K to do that and I gained a half second in the quarter mile at the track. I won't quote my dyno numbers but I will tell you this set-up will take any of the Mustangs, Camaro's and the other cars you mentioned. I regularly run 12.2's & 12.3's. One guy with a moded CTSV shows up with Nitto DR's on his car and we go back and forth with who edges who at the finish. I've even beat Cobras, (2011 & 2012) and ZL1's on occasion as I've noticed it often depends on the driver's ability to row through the gears with proficiency but the best I've seen them run is 12.1 quaters. You'll find many of them blow the shifts when the adrenaline hits.
 
  • Like
Reactions: CiscoKid

·
Premium Member
09 RT Challenger auto
Joined
·
3,467 Posts
Option 1
Done right, Z06 you wont worry about.
I did option 1 and then kept adding and adding more mods.
Easy to upgrade pulleys ect. as time goes, you will want more HP. We always do.

Option 2 and 3 work also,

Option 2 its NA and will make steam. However with option 1 added, wow. So with option 1 you will go to option 2 in the furture anyway. Making option 1 work better with adding boost being it will be now forged with the biger motor.

Option 3 srt,, well what can we say. Great option, but you will need to feed the furture crave, and here comes option 1 and then again option 2 pops up, to make option 1 better yet.
It really never ends and this option 3$ will Cost more in a long run.

Part of the fun was the upgrades as time and money went. Then the feel of added power and knowing, "you" did it.
FlatTop
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
880 Posts
@Breeeze: What color SRT am I looking out for on Central so I don't get mashed on too? lol


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
Yellow Jacket. Where are you in Maryland?

Everyone says go FI but you say it won't be tracked right. What's all the glory of having a 500rwhp beast to race on the street that WONT hook!? "Spinning aint winning". I can go on about all 3 options but a 392 will be my first option.

SC the 5.7 then you'll need bigger brakes and want suspension on top of that 10k you spent making it fast. Way I look at it things.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
529 Posts
If you want the Brembo's, the upgraded suspension nav, etc. it's cheaper to start with the srt. Otherwise just mod what you have, forged pistons and a blower would be a good start, Flattop said that's just the beginning, it will snow ball from there as the next weakest link will break, axles, driveshaft, etc.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,809 Posts
Id say if you just running the 1/4 go Option 1, if your on a circuit or AutoX go Option 3… besides when option 1 gets boring… you can't say "oh ill add a S/C" but option 3 you can! ;D

Thats how i see it lol

Shifty
 

·
Registered
2009 Challenger R/T
Joined
·
2,991 Posts
Going to a 392, if you still plan to throw a blower on it, seems like a waste of money.

With the 392, drop in pistons are a must with FI. Where as the 5.7 and 6.1 are both proven to run with a fair amount of abuse at 8lbs on stock internals. Then once you feel the need for more power (which you will), you could always grab a forged short block and go from there.

Like previously said, the 392 'upgrade' will definitely cost you more in the long run. Just the difference in trading up will be enough to throw whatever supercharger you want on the R/T. And with the money you'd spend on supercharging the 392, you could easily buy a forged short block that'll handle whatever you want to throw at it.

The only pros I see of upgrading to a 392 is for the Brembo's (which I added to my R/T for $1800), and the suspension (which you could always buy a decent coilover set up).

With all that said, I'm not dogging the 392 at all. It's just if you already have a Challenger and your planning big mods, I see no reason to waste money 'upgrading' to a 392 when you'll end up needing to forge both blocks in the long run.
 
  • Like
Reactions: CiscoKid

·
Registered
Joined
·
85 Posts
I say throw blower on your 5. 7, or go find a 6. 1 SRT and enjoy that for few of saving up for blower. If you're going to build up the motor and change out the suspension there's really no need to 11-14. Just my. 02

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

·
Registered
‘13 Challenger SRT 6M
Joined
·
2,817 Posts
...then you're choosing the WRONG way to go!!

Lets break it down --

YOUR OPT 1: S/C your 5.7 = ~470whp = call it $10,000.00

YOUR OPT 2: Built N/A 5.7 = ~450whp = approx. $11,000.00

YOUR OPT 3: Buy SRT+Mods = ~420whp = call it around $20,000.00 trade-in (+$10-$11k mods)

Clearly the best "cheap it out" option is to get boosted and call it a day!

My (conservative 5# tuned) 2012 S/Ced 5.7 beats Cadillac CTS-Vs and V-10 equipped BMW M5s....that's our weight class! Smokes Mustangs and Camaros (and SRT8s) all day long as well.....(watch the GT500s and LZ1s though)

....Edelbrock, Magnacharger, KB, Vortec....all are good options for >450 whp for under 10 grand!!

Shy away from the 6.4s too! Don't let these SRT owners tell you to get the 392....takes new pistons to boost it properly! Do your homework ( that means more than just collecting forum peeps' opinions! - yes, even mine ) ;) Maybe if you *really* want to go the SRT route, wait til 2015 and see what the Hellcat brings first.
First off what 392 only makes 420 at the wheel WITH mods? Mines stock and I know I'm getting 416ish with NO mods, cause that's what a ton of guys are getting with their dyno results. Also, 416 is a 12% loose so it makes sense. Don't know about you but mine came with 470 from the factory at the crank. Secondly YOU CAN supercharge a 392 without replacing the pistons. The crank is forged, pistons not, rod are somewhat in between. Don't feel like looking for it but I do know they are stronger than cast but not as strong as forged. I've read on this forum and many others 6-8 pounds will not hurt the pistons on a 392. Now, think about this, if you were going to go higher on your boost level, let's say 12 or more, well you have more than the pistons to worry about because your achillies heal is now your drive train. On a manual clutch is good to 600 tranny to 700. Then you have to start looking at half shafts and a driveshaft. So, if it were me, I'd look to go SRT route, get all the "extras", hell your starting out with an ADDITIONAL 95/95 TRQ/HP right out of the hood without turning a wrench! That's almost what a supercharger will get you on a 5.7! Then, I'd rebuild the top end; bore the intake, throttle body (90mm), cam, port the heads, go long tubes...


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 
  • Like
Reactions: CiscoKid

·
Registered
‘13 Challenger SRT 6M
Joined
·
2,817 Posts
Going to a 392, if you still plan to throw a blower on it, seems like a waste of money.

With the 392, drop in pistons are a must with FI. Where as the 5.7 and 6.1 are both proven to run with a fair amount of abuse at 8lbs on stock internals. Then once you feel the need for more power (which you will), you could always grab a forged short block and go from there.

Like previously said, the 392 'upgrade' will definitely cost you more in the long run. Just the difference in trading up will be enough to throw whatever supercharger you want on the R/T. And with the money you'd spend on supercharging the 392, you could easily buy a forged short block that'll handle whatever you want to throw at it.

The only pros I see of upgrading to a 392 is for the Brembo's (which I added to my R/T for $1800), and the suspension (which you could always buy a decent coilover set up).

With all that said, I'm not dogging the 392 at all. It's just if you already have a Challenger and your planning big mods, I see no reason to waste money 'upgrading' to a 392 when you'll end up needing to forge both blocks in the long run.
Forge what blocks? What are you talking about. The only part of the rotating assembly on a 392 that's not forged are the slugs. And personally, and I'm laughing right know with a huge grin on my face, personally the only "upgrade" on a 392 IS NOT THE BREMBOS. I'm so tired of hearing that. I've driven both, and both in automatic and stick, I have the stick, there is more of a difference, it's not JUST the brembos. You can't feel the brembos when your driving. The two cars are night and day, I'm sorry. They are beautiful car, but night and day. That's why I say to the OP the old adage, "there is no replacement for displacement!"


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 
1 - 20 of 56 Posts
Top