Dodge Challenger Forum banner
  • Hey everyone! Enter your ride HERE to be a part of this month's Ride of the Month Challenge!

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Recently I swapped out my factory speakers with Infinity Reference speakers like many have posted here. I have SGII and I also replaced the rear deck 8" sub with a Pioneer sub. This worked out okay but seriously lacked good mids, too bright in the high frequencies and the sub is just useless in the deck even with sound deadening. Replaced the sub with a Kicker 12" enclosure powered with a LC2 and a Pioneer amp. Although the sub was a major improvement I quickly realized I had to go the rest of the way and bypass the Alpine amp.

I installed a Kenwood XR600-6DSP amp for the dash, door and rear deck speakers and ran channels 7 thru 10 to a Kenwood xr401-4 amp for the rear arm rest speakers and the sub. Sub is bridged. I used Audiotool RTA app with a Dayton Audio iMM-6 calibrated mic to tune. I am a novice in the world of car audio and so my first try at tuning this thing didn't turn out so well. So, I researched and tried to learn a few things and gave it another shot. This time around I ended up removing the rear arm rest speakers from the setup since my rear deck speakers are more than enough to fill in some sound to compliment the front staging. I dropped the gain on the rear speakers by 2 db. I crossed over my door speakers as mid bass with the dash speakers being mid high pass and the rear mid bass high pass. Now the sound is very dynamic and powerful. Completely smokes the stock setup. I'm blown away. If you take the time to tune with pink noise and an rta you will be amazed at how good you can make this setup sound. I'm sure a pro could get this even better but I'm extremely happy non the less. I built the amp rack myself determined to do this at a pro level. Here's a few pics.

976671

976672


If I can answer any questions just ask.
 

·
Premium Member
The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
Joined
·
8,476 Posts
Very nice! I would imagine that setup is in a whole 'nother realm of sound versus the stock "upgraded" audio setup.

What did you do with the hole in the rear deck where the factory 8" sub was?
 

·
Premium Member
The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
Joined
·
8,476 Posts
Not sure of your geographical location, but if it's anything like mine, the trunk tends to go into oven mode if left sitting in the sun for too long. I've been working on a cool(er) air circulation system for mine lately, and that 8" sub hole just happens to fit a 200mm computer case fan right nicely.

WP_20190801_08_00_07_Pro (2).jpg WP_20190801_08_00_37_Pro (2).jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Not sure of your geographical location, but if it's anything like mine, the trunk tends to go into oven mode if left sitting in the sun for too long. I've been working on a cool(er) air circulation system for mine lately, and that 8" sub hole just happens to fit a 200mm computer case fan right nicely.

View attachment 976681 View attachment 976682
That's nice! Are you going to leave the bottom tray out or cut it? I'm in Pennsylvania so we have a limited time of extreme heat but the amps seem to be handling it okay. The XR600-6DSP has a fan built in fan but the xr401-4 does not and it gets hotter. It is only driving the sub so only 2 of the 4 channels are being used so hopefully that will keep it from being too hot.
 

·
Premium Member
The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
Joined
·
8,476 Posts
I'm leaving it off for the time being. I'm constantly in and out of the trunk futzing with the slide-out amp rack and wiring, and that thing is just in the way...and rattles with the heavy bass notes. I may leave it off altogether once I finalize everything, or I may cut it and replace it up in there, I haven't really thought about it too much.

During this time of year, it only takes about 30 minutes sitting in the sun in a parking lot somewhere and both amps surface temps (topside and bottomside) are well over 100F. I'm averaging about 115F at startup if they've been in the trunk in the sun for an extended amount of time. Both amps are class D, so they aren't prone to overheating necessarily, but even still, I have been known to push the system pretty hard, and starting out at 115F to only go up is a little too disconcerting for me.

I've got a rudimentary air circulation/cooling system set up now using a couple 140mm computer case fans, a 6" squirrel cage blower fan, and 2 of those 200mm case fans, but it's less than ideal and needs to be redone...something which I am in the act of doing, if I could just decide on the final configuration. I've spent lots of time with pans of water and dry ice trying to figure out which setup yields the best airflow around the amps and through the trunk, but man it gets awful hot and sticky back there trying to work all this out during the dead of summer.

In hindsight, I believe I might have erred in waiting until the hottest part of the year to start all my sciences and redos. This would have been much less painful had I done it during the winter time, aka December around here. :unsure:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
I'm leaving it off for the time being. I'm constantly in and out of the trunk futzing with the slide-out amp rack and wiring, and that thing is just in the way...and rattles with the heavy bass notes. I may leave it off altogether once I finalize everything, or I may cut it and replace it up in there, I haven't really thought about it too much.

During this time of year, it only takes about 30 minutes sitting in the sun in a parking lot somewhere and both amps surface temps (topside and bottomside) are well over 100F. I'm averaging about 115F at startup if they've been in the trunk in the sun for an extended amount of time. Both amps are class D, so they aren't prone to overheating necessarily, but even still, I have been known to push the system pretty hard, and starting out at 115F to only go up is a little too disconcerting for me.

I've got a rudimentary air circulation/cooling system set up now using a couple 140mm computer case fans, a 6" squirrel cage blower fan, and 2 of those 200mm case fans, but it's less than ideal and needs to be redone...something which I am in the act of doing, if I could just decide on the final configuration. I've spent lots of time with pans of water and dry ice trying to figure out which setup yields the best airflow around the amps and through the trunk, but man it gets awful hot and sticky back there trying to work all this out during the dead of summer.

In hindsight, I believe I might have erred in waiting until the hottest part of the year to start all my sciences and redos. This would have been much less painful had I done it during the winter time, aka December around here. :unsure:
I hear ya. The heat makes it so difficult to do this work. I had to tune by shutting the engine off because of frequencies then stop tuning to cool down the car over and over again. Sucked. Seems your fan should help.
 

·
Premium Member
The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
Joined
·
8,476 Posts
So I'm curious, what were the rear arm rest speakers you ended up removing from the equation? Were they tweeters of some sort, or something a little bigger like the 3.5" speakers in the dash?

The only speaker setup I"ve had on any of the 3 LXs I've had is the base model. The 2010 Challenger had 4 speakers, and the 2011 Challenger and this 2012 Charger has the 6 speaker base setup. None were factory amped, and none sounded all that great in their stock form.

This Charger differs from the Challengers I had in that the rear deck speakers are supposed to be 6x9s (I've replaced the stock 6x9s with Focal 5.25" coaxials), and the Challengers I had both came with 6.5" coaxials in the rear deck. You would think the 6x9 drivers in the rear deck would be an improvement over the 6.5" speakers, but they are not. The infinite baffle enclosure and their low-quality build combine to make the stock 6x9s in the rear deck sound no better than the stock 6.5"s back there....and those didn't sound too good to begin with.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
So I'm curious, what were the rear arm rest speakers you ended up removing from the equation? Were they tweeters of some sort, or something a little bigger like the 3.5" speakers in the dash?

The only speaker setup I"ve had on any of the 3 LXs I've had is the base model. The 2010 Challenger had 4 speakers, and the 2011 Challenger and this 2012 Charger has the 6 speaker base setup. None were factory amped, and none sounded all that great in their stock form.

This Charger differs from the Challengers I had in that the rear deck speakers are supposed to be 6x9s (I've replaced the stock 6x9s with Focal 5.25" coaxials), and the Challengers I had both came with 6.5" coaxials in the rear deck. You would think the 6x9 drivers in the rear deck would be an improvement over the 6.5" speakers, but they are not. The infinite baffle enclosure and their low-quality build combine to make the stock 6x9s in the rear deck sound no better than the stock 6.5"s back there....and those didn't sound too good to begin with.
The stock speakers are the same ones as in the dash so I installed the same Infinity 3022cfx speakers there. I just turned them off in the dsp and I can turn them back on if I want to but everything I've been reading and seen in pro installs lead me to believe I would be better off without them. I found that to be true. I feel the front is much better staged now and the deck speakers are more than enough to help fill the cabin. Originally I put 6522ex speakers in the deck and they really sucked, grating sound. Changed to 6522ix with a tremendous improvement. I read many times that Infinity is not very good in the low frequencies and I would say that's true but I'm not trying to push too much bass out of them. I'm letting the sub take care of that.
 

·
Premium Member
The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
Joined
·
8,476 Posts
The stock speakers are the same ones as in the dash so I installed the same Infinity 3022cfx speakers there. I just turned them off in the dsp and I can turn them back on if I want to but everything I've been reading and seen in pro installs lead me to believe I would be better off without them. I found that to be true. I feel the front is much better staged now and the deck speakers are more than enough to help fill the cabin. Originally I put 6522ex speakers in the deck and they really sucked, grating sound. Changed to 6522ix with a tremendous improvement. I read many times that Infinity is not very good in the low frequencies and I would say that's true but I'm not trying to push too much bass out of them. I'm letting the sub take care of that.
Yeah, those are 3.5"...that seems like an odd decision to put more 3.5" speakers in that location, but whatever, they didn't ask me when they designed the Sound Group II package.

I'm not sure if I've heard the 6522ex Infinities, but I used to have some of the ix speakers in a different vehicle, and I loved those things. Those are the ones with the aimable tweeters, right? That's what I liked about these Focal 5.25" coaxials I put in my rear deck - I can aim the tweeters wherever I want them. I thought they might sound better if bounced off the back glass, but trial and error showed me just aiming them both at the driver's seat was the best way to go with them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Yeah, those are 3.5"...that seems like an odd decision to put more 3.5" speakers in that location, but whatever, they didn't ask me when they designed the Sound Group II package.

I'm not sure if I've heard the 6522ex Infinities, but I used to have some of the ix speakers in a different vehicle, and I loved those things. Those are the ones with the aimable tweeters, right? That's what I liked about these Focal 5.25" coaxials I put in my rear deck - I can aim the tweeters wherever I want them. I thought they might sound better if bounced off the back glass, but trial and error showed me just aiming them both at the driver's seat was the best way to go with them.
The 6522ex are the shallow mount version and crutchfield only showed those would fit. Of course that's incorrect and the 6522ix fit no problem. The ix has a tilted tweeter so you can kind of aim them. It would be better if you could actually rotate the tweeter independent of the basket. I believe it's usually better to avoid reflecting the tweeters or speakers in general so I also aimed them out away from the glass. Both of them are facing toward the center of the cabin.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
The 6522ex are the shallow mount version and crutchfield only showed those would fit. Of course that's incorrect and the 6522ix fit no problem. The ix has a tilted tweeter so you can kind of aim them. It would be better if you could actually rotate the tweeter independent of the basket. I believe it's usually better to avoid reflecting the tweeters or speakers in general so I also aimed them out away from the glass. Both of them are facing toward the center of the cabin.
What's your opinion of the Focal speakers vs the Infinity Speakers?
 

·
Premium Member
The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
Joined
·
8,476 Posts
What's your opinion of the Focal speakers vs the Infinity Speakers?
The Infinities would win in this particular comparison, but it's not exactly a fair fight. The Infinities are 6.5" and at least provide some midbase, whereas these Focals are basically overgrown tweeters. Plus these Focals aren't their normal top of the line models, they are the middle of the road, actually affordable model from them.

They sound great, and for what I"m asking of them (sit back there and fill in the frequency hole between my door drivers and dash speakers without distorting when I pour on the juice) they perform as well as I could hope. But if we're talking about a set of mid-base coaxials, the 6.5" Infinities provide more bang for the watts IMHO.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Recently I swapped out my factory speakers with Infinity Reference speakers like many have posted here. I have SGII and I also replaced the rear deck 8" sub with a Pioneer sub. This worked out okay but seriously lacked good mids, too bright in the high frequencies and the sub is just useless in the deck even with sound deadening. Replaced the sub with a Kicker 12" enclosure powered with a LC2 and a Pioneer amp. Although the sub was a major improvement I quickly realized I had to go the rest of the way and bypass the Alpine amp.

I installed a Kenwood XR600-6DSP amp for the dash, door and rear deck speakers and ran channels 7 thru 10 to a Kenwood xr401-4 amp for the rear arm rest speakers and the sub. Sub is bridged. I used Audiotool RTA app with a Dayton Audio iMM-6 calibrated mic to tune. I am a novice in the world of car audio and so my first try at tuning this thing didn't turn out so well. So, I researched and tried to learn a few things and gave it another shot. This time around I ended up removing the rear arm rest speakers from the setup since my rear deck speakers are more than enough to fill in some sound to compliment the front staging. I dropped the gain on the rear speakers by 2 db. I crossed over my door speakers as mid bass with the dash speakers being mid high pass and the rear mid bass high pass. Now the sound is very dynamic and powerful. Completely smokes the stock setup. I'm blown away. If you take the time to tune with pink noise and an rta you will be amazed at how good you can make this setup sound. I'm sure a pro could get this even better but I'm extremely happy non the less. I built the amp rack myself determined to do this at a pro level. Here's a few pics.

View attachment 976671
View attachment 976672

If I can answer any questions just ask.
Clean install bro!!! My plan is to mount the DSp on the back left. But this is beautiful!!! I'ma yse the Factory Sub location as a vent for an 'Infinite Baffle' setup. Way I see it is the trunk is a 16.5 cubic foot box. Anyway, What did you assign the channels to. Like the Left Door Panel = ch X? Does it matter? I cant play w/ the Kenwood amp until it is hooked up. You could save me much time & stress. I could wore the speakers in my nice warm house! Any help would be much appreciated!
983501
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Clean install bro!!! My plan is to mount the DSp on the back left. But this is beautiful!!! I'ma yse the Factory Sub location as a vent for an 'Infinite Baffle' setup. Way I see it is the trunk is a 16.5 cubic foot box. Anyway, What did you assign the channels to. Like the Left Door Panel = ch X? Does it matter? I cant play w/ the Kenwood amp until it is hooked up. You could save me much time & stress. I could wore the speakers in my nice warm house! Any help would be much appreciated!
View attachment 983501
I would avoid the factory sub location, you will battle controlling the bad vibrations. Doesn't matter which channels other than the fact that 1-6 is powered. I put the dash speakers on 1 and 2, doors on 3 & 4 and the rear deck on 5 and 6. I put the rear arm rest speakers on 7 and 8 which is powered by the xr401-4 but I currently have the off in the dsp because they really aren't needed and overkill. 9 and 10 are for the sub bridged. There's plenty of room to run the harness and speaker wires down the drivers side side door sill and under the rear seat to the trunk. If I remember correctly the dsp will be odd channel numbers drivers side and even passenger side. Hooking it all up is the easy part, its tuning that can be stressful. Good luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,775 Posts
Nice setup!

Just to add to this thread, here is my install:



I'm running a JL Audio XD600/6v2 6-channel amp and a Helix DSP.3 DSP - all mounted in the trunk styrofoam "organizer" where the spare tire would normally go. I'm using an AmpPro 4 for OEM integration and am using Kenwood Excelon speakers (KFC XP6903C component set for doors/dash and KFC-X174 for 6.5" coaxials in rear deck. Only subwoofer is a JBL BassPro SL under the passenger seat (didn't want a sub box in the trunk). No heat-related issues even though all of the equipment is basically in a sealed environment underneath the "trap door" in the trunk (love class-D amps!). :)

Originally, I used the Rockford Fosgate DSR-1 for OEM integration/DSP and Infinity Reference speakers all around. I definitely like the Kenwood Excelon speakers better than the Infinity Reference speakers they replaced. The Infinity speakers just got very "harsh" at higher volumes and I just couldn't tune it out with the DSP. The Helix DSP.3 was also a nice upgrade from the DSR-1.

I'm running a digital TOS link cable from the AmpPro 4 back to the Helix DSP in the trunk (so a single, thin TOS link cable instead of 6 thick RCA cables between head-unit and DSP!). Very short RCA cables between DSP and amp in the trunk.

The amp board is actually secured using a spare-tire hold-down bolt (******* engineering at it's best!). Works amazingly well at securing the amp board though.

LOVE this setup. The flexibility with the Helix DSP.3 is just insane - it's not cheap, but it's a great DSP.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
I would avoid the factory sub location, you will battle controlling the bad vibrations. Doesn't matter which channels other than the fact that 1-6 is powered. I put the dash speakers on 1 and 2, doors on 3 & 4 and the rear deck on 5 and 6. I put the rear arm rest speakers on 7 and 8 which is powered by the xr401-4 but I currently have the off in the dsp because they really aren't needed and overkill. 9 and 10 are for the sub bridged. There's plenty of room to run the harness and speaker wires down the drivers side side door sill and under the rear seat to the trunk. If I remember correctly the dsp will be odd channel numbers drivers side and even passenger side. Hooking it all up is the easy part, its tuning that can be stressful. Good luck.
Thanks for the info! Yeah, the wiring is nuts & I've been doing stereos since the 90's! I'm gonna build a second deck off the package tray. The factory location is just for a manifold vent. I fully expect rattle. Gonna start off w/ some rubber & clear silicone. Half the fun of Bass is finding the rattle... That & every nut & bolt will slowly loosen. Even w/ double nuts & a lock washer.
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top