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Hi All -

My boss bought his son a 2010 SRT8 (i know, i know..he's 16... just move on (actually - he already nailed a curb..had to throw this in)).. came with the Kicker 322w amp, single sub on the left, 13 coaxs inside . Despite the fact that he is a preppy white boy, he feels that the bass delivered by the single sub is inadequate for the parking lot at his school. As such, he has requested from "Santa" that the stock system be given more balls.

My boss took car to dealership (insert groans of disappointment here) and THOUGHT they were adding the dual sub box on top of the single sub on left, and wanted for them to add a 4th single sub on right. Ultimate goal 4 x 10"s. One left (stock), dual mid (box), one right (upgrade). Obviously, amps all around.

Issue came when he dropped car off at dealership, they first told him they upgrade the front amp (under the glovebox) to the 77Kick30ac which boosted it to 368w from 322w. What this has to do with the sub upgrades is beyond my comprehension, however, there appears to have been some confusion and we think the fine woman the dealership may have thought the 77Kick30ac was in fact the single sub upgrade for the right.

In addition, the fine folks at the dealership told him that they could not install the dual box and keep the stock sub on the left, the harness would not support it - it was one or the other.

I am a member of this particular car's "upgrade advisory panel" for technical advice. Having very little experience in Mopar audio, but significant experience in other manufacturers, i turn to you for your guidance. My questions are:

A) it appears the 77kick30ac is an upgrade for the front amp. Accidental as it may be, for $200, probably worth keeping. Am i correct? It seems from the limited information that i can find on this amp, that it also pushes a little more mid and highs to the front speakers and is an overall better balanced amp. Is this accurate and are there any drawbacks i am missing?

B) The only reason i can guess that the factory drones would not install the dual box and leave the stock sub is power drain on battery. I don't understand the harness comment, well i guess i do... i'm assuming the harness only has one "plug" for sub output and the boys at the dealership are hesitant to modify or step outside the lines. I have to assume that if i don't think the battery is an issue and i'm willing to get someone to splice the sub output (or maybe there is a premade splitter) that i should be able to branch the sub signal to both the box and the stock sub. Hell... worst case, i could tap the rear speaker and line level convert it - right? Enough of this plug and play bull****.

C) Is there actually a matching single sub enclosure for the right side of the car? I've heard rumors of this mythical beast, but have had little luck locating anyone who has seen it or installed it.

Any guidance you could provide would be greatly appreciated by myself, my boss, and the preppy white boy.
 

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What if he were brown, yellow or black? Would you have referred to him as the preppy brown boy, the preppy yellow boy or the preppy black boy?
 

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Hey "tone" you're not helping here (troll attitude) - take it over to the mustang/camaro boards.


To answer your question mlockwood - try this link.

http://www.challengertalk.com/forum...sub-enclosure-install-review-lots-pics-14544/

It shows a splice is required for Surround Sound systems to get stereo feed over to the newly installed dual box subs that have their own built-in amp/power cords.

No manufacture has created the right-hand side sub enclosure yet (only backyard individuals) so maybe one day it will happen as time passes.
 

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The fall 2010 Mopar accessories catalog I have in front of me states that the 77KICK30AC is a "Subwoffer, single 10" with 200 watt amplifier".

Where does the 368w amp come from?


There is also a 77KICKAB which is a "subwoffer,dual 10" square with 400 watt amplifier".
 

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Yes. Happy Holidays. And before we start a **** storm, i'm black....lol.
I'm white, 52, have graying hair and I'm overweight! You can call me any of those and I'll laugh and ask you out for a beer! I knew exactly the type of person you meant when you said preppy white boy and I didn't even give it a second thought......Shame on me, a typical stereotyping conservative! Who cares what color any body's skin is....Why must some people jump on every word as if they are the offense police. Just get over it and enjoy the fact that we have all been blessed in life enough to live in America and have enough disposable income to be able to own a car like the Challenger. MLLOCKWOOD...rock on! Merry Christmas.....hope that didn't offend anyone. LOL
 

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The fall 2010 Mopar accessories catalog I have in front of me states that the 77KICK30AC is a "Subwoffer, single 10" with 200 watt amplifier".

Where does the 368w amp come from?


There is also a 77KICKAB which is a "subwoffer,dual 10" square with 400 watt amplifier".

Well I've done some digging and it appears that the accessory catalog has incorrect nomenclature. I printed of installation instructions for the 77KICK30AC and it is indeed a 368 watt amp.

Now I too am curious how much better it is than the 322 watt original amp.

Is it 210 bucks (published list) better?
 

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Hi All -



In addition, the fine folks at the dealership told him that they could not install the dual box and keep the stock sub on the left, the harness would not support it - it was one or the other.

... i'm assuming the harness only has one "plug" for sub output and the boys at the dealership are hesitant to modify or step outside the lines. I have to assume that if i don't think the battery is an issue and i'm willing to get someone to splice the sub output


Any guidance you could provide would be greatly appreciated by myself, my boss, and the preppy white boy.

You got one of your answers: .....boys at the dealership are hesitant to modify or step outside the lines (mostly because of warranty issues)

My advise: Go with an ALL aftermarket subwoofer/amp setup, it WILL be much louder than ANY factory setup. (wich sounds like the "driver" of the car wants) Most independent stereo shops can build/install a setup with just 1 or 2 subs that will be louder than a factory setup with 3 or 4 subs. (go with a ported/vented box):)
 

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Hey "Robo", I wasn't the one using the racial slur, yet I am the troll. Interesting.
Those who do not contribute to the original post insert personal attitude or bias and waste everyone's time scrolling for the answer.

Preppy white boy is not a racial slur - (One who is given anything and everything they want.) please look it up. Pretty Fly (For A White Guy) isn't a racial slur as well and falls into the same category ...


To the OP - my other post was for staying within the factory set-up.
I would just snag a nice Pioneer GM-D8500M Class-D Mono Amplifier and 2 dual 10" subs like Alpine SWR-1023D in a correct sized vented box and be done with it for $375.00
 

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I'm white, 52, have graying hair and I'm overweight! You can call me any of those and I'll laugh and ask you out for a beer! I knew exactly the type of person you meant when you said preppy white boy and I didn't even give it a second thought......Shame on me, a typical stereotyping conservative!
DITTO!!!

I too am White and 43, fat and love beer. I love it so much my brother has a brewery. I too thought the sub was for crap.

Anyway, why is this kid going to the 'DEALER' for audio upgrades??? Those guys are total numbskulls when it comes to audio. Go to a 'real' installer in your area. Adding sub after sub is not the answer. You can get away with one quality sub and amp, and no you cannot use the old encosure. I went with 2 because I had a vision for my trunk, and I like symetrical things. 2 12' subs are PLENTY, mine have to be adjusted from a knob in the dash, or sometimes they overwhelm.

My biggest advice is pay someone ONCE and have it done right, it usually ends up cheaper!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ok - so the exciting conclusion.... which may cause more hostility than my preppy white boy comment. The Mopar factory Dual Kicker box, well, is absolutely horrifying. Honestly, I can't have fantasized of a bigger waste of money - except maybe what the government spent on GM.

Boss ordered it, had the dealer install it, and after listening to it for the better part of an hour with every imaginable type of music, it did not sound appreciably better than the stock sub. I was stunned to see that the amps are inside the enclosure AND the enclosure isn't even ported! My God .....it made me want to club a baby seal. I'm surprised Kicker puts their name on such a silly excuse for a sub.

When I tell you LITERALLY the car went from the dealership to Best Buy. (I know, I know, insert groans about Best Buy here________. Listen, this was just an amp and sub, not brain surgery... and realize that getting the boss to let anyone beside a Chrysler tech work on the car was like pulling teeth.)

Anyway, for exactly the same amount of money as it cost for the Mopar Mess, we had a Dual 12" Kicker CVR 2 ohm enclosure and a 750w Kicker sub amp installed. That thing booms so loud they had to bump the amp down a few notches cause it was blowing the spot welds in the trunk. It makes the car vibrate so much the kid's girlfriend now spends all day just sitting in the car "listening" to anything with a bass line.

Moral of the story? If you're looking to upgrade your subs - your options are:
Dual 10s with (2) 200w amps in the equivalent of a cute "My Little Kitty" lunchbox OR a Dual 12inch, 750w earthquake machine - for exactly the same money.
 

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Well I've done some digging and it appears that the accessory catalog has incorrect nomenclature. I printed of installation instructions for the 77KICK30AC and it is indeed a 368 watt amp.

Now I too am curious how much better it is than the 322 watt original amp.

Is it 210 bucks (published list) better?

i know this is an older thread but I wanted to answer this question in case others are out there looking to upgrade their Kicker top of the line system in their SRT-8 with the 368w amp upgrade offered by Mopar. I ordered the RHR 730N system in my 2011 and while the cabin speakers sound decent to me, the subwoofer performance leaves much to be desired. I got an opportunity to trade for a 368w 77KICK30AC amp to replace the 322W RC5 amp that came with the factory Kicker package. IF you were to pay the 210.00 dollars for this unit I would say it is absolutely not worth your money. It is marginally better just as 368w vs. 322w would indicate. Because I traded for it, I have about 100.00 into the 77KICK30AC and that is about all I would say the difference is worth if even that.
 

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diffrence between the two amps is roughly 46 watts. on a 300 watt system you need to make 600 watts to add 3db's to the system. so even an extra 100 watts is only going to give you around a 1db diffrence. in general terms it takes around 3dbs for a person to feel like the system is noticably louder. so what does an extra 46 watts give you? maybe a .5 db diffrence, no noticeable gain and $200 less in your wallet. for $200 you can go out and buy a halfway decent aftermarket amp that will put out 400-600 watts and make a huge impact.


moral of story. never go to a car dealership for audio upgrades. they are never worth it.
 

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had my srt8 at the dealer the other day, and they say my front 322w amp is shot, and low stock in the country....this forum gave me the idea of trying to get them to install the 368w amp(77kick30ac), and I'll pay the difference. This way it gets fixed "faster" & "may" even sound better....we'll see what happens.(from what I've read, its a plug & play??)
 

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aftermarket amp swap

like a poster above said, using an aftermarket amp for the sub is a better option over the kicker system.

however.

The amp on the rest of the systems actually controls functions like balance, fade and eq, NOT THE HEAD UNIT. So unless you want to spend a thousand dollars or more on a box to put after the factory amp to clean up the signal then run that into another amp which will then have to be spiced into the wiring harness or run new wires to all of your speakers from the new amp....

the only solution is the 77KICK30AC upgrade amp. Honestly, Dodge goes above and beyond to make sure you use factory equipment. If you change the head unit, the factory wiring going from the head unit only sends 4 channels to the factory amp. The amp and computer do the rest. so repalcing the head unit with a harness kit and new amp will still cause you to lose balance, fade and eq on the new system.

To get it back you need to replace the head unit and run your own wires to the amp, skipping the factory harness all together, which will cause a warning light or two and the loss of all chimes, warning buzzers.

So, a little better sound with the 77KICK30AC or a thousand dollars or more for anything significant and it will have to be put on behind the intact factory amp.

i did it on a jeep. Used the aftermarket amp to control eq, fade and balance through gain. sucked. loud but sucked. the only way to make everything work properly is use factory equipment. wiring was just ugly when it was done too. wires everywhere. Vermin.
 
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