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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

This is my first post on this forum. I've been debating posting this issue at all but I'm at my wit's end here.

I've been having problems with my 2013 Challenger R/T classic since January 2018.

After five to ten minutes of driving, if I stop and idle anywhere, the car goes into limp mode... or what I think is limp mode. Once idling, the car shakes slightly while the RPMs go below 600. I hear a constant beep from the dash and the stability control, ABS, and check engine light come on (although not consistently). It will then not go over 15-20MPH. Sometimes it seems like I'm in second gear and can go 35-40 MPH. The problem takes longer to occur if I'm in park or if my AC is turned off.

I take it to the Sumter Dodge dealership and they can't figure it out. They checked wiring and throttle body. Eventually they had me replace the battery. Cost over $300 for that. Then they had me replace the TCM. Cost over $950 for that. I eventually left the dealership because they wanted me to pay more for troubleshooting. I didn't feel comfortable paying them to just throw parts at the issue.

I went to another mechanic in town and they double checked the harness (pulled out the dash and went over every wire). He replaced the speed sensors in the tires, this got rid of the ABS light. He then said the engine wasn't getting enough power. So I take it back to the dealership to get the alternator replaced under recall. Now the engine is getting proper power but problem still remains. About three weeks ago, my wipers would not shut off. This occurred while I was limping home from work. I have to remove the fuse to get it to shut off.

So, now, the mechanic says to replace the PCM. I buy one pre-programmed and install it myself. It drives a little better but it still limps after 5-10 minutes. Now he's thinking it's the TCM again and to go back to the dealer and have them go over it. I don't have codes on me, but one of the codes said "Lost communication with TCM".

The dealer is looking at it again, for the millionth time, and their guess is the TIPM now... I'm extremely fed up with the back and forth and paying money for uneeded parts. I can't take my daughter to a Mcdonald's drive through! It's dangerous to be on the road with no wipers and low speeds! I've wanted this car since 09 and now that I'm in a position to afford it, I can't drive it. FCA said I don't have any "loyalty points" because it's my first Dodge... what kind of crap is that? Why can't they help me? Feeling pretty hopeless right now... paying on a car that doesn't work. I didn't get the warranty because, who would have thought I'd have a serious issue on a 2013 car??

Anyone have any ideas? Should I try to trade it in? I really love this car and the body style. I really don't want to have to get something I don't enjoy looking at or driving.
 

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2015 Dodge Challenger R/T Scat Pack
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Have you tried calling the Dodge customer service line? Seems like someone should be able to help you somewhere. Sounds like some sort of electrical glitch somewhere. Maybe a harness not fully plugged in, bad connection somewhere, etc.

Or maybe you could just trade it in and get a different Challenger and let someone else deal with it. If they're not willing to help you out, how much more BS do you have to take? Not sure if the lemon law would apply here or not as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Have you tried calling the Dodge customer service line? Seems like someone should be able to help you somewhere. Sounds like some sort of electrical glitch somewhere. Maybe a harness not fully plugged in, bad connection somewhere, etc.

Or maybe you could just trade it in and get a different Challenger and let someone else deal with it. If they're not willing to help you out, how much more BS do you have to take? Not sure if the lemon law would apply here or not as well.
The lemon law wouldn't apply here. I live in SC and bought the car used. SC doesn't care.

I called FCA... I'm guessing Dodge Cust Service is different? I'll look it up and give them a call.
 

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2020 Dodge Challenger Hellraisin Scat Pack
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These kinds of problems are the hardest to trouble shoot and can be expensive to put right.

Couple of things come to mind.

Insufficient electrical power due to a failing alternator/voltage regulator. In one case I watched a Panamera idling in a service bay with no problems after a few minutes and out of the blue illuminate dash warning lights, display warning messages, the engine begins to run rough, the CEL comes on, and shortly thereafter the engine dies. The tech turns off the ignition and lets the car sit 15 minutes and restarts the engine. All is fine at first but shortly things go downhill just like before.

Bad alternator and at some point the battery was being called upon to supply all electrical power required by the car and engine. A good battery can rise up to this challenge (I had a battery suffice for 15+ miles once in my VW Golf TDi when the engine lost a V-belt. But I turned off all electrical loads.)

More recently with a previous car the voltage gauge reading was in the normal range but after some miles of driving had dropped and when it reached 12V I got the car to the dealer pronto. Bad alternator.

It would be interesting to monitor battery voltage before, during, and after the car started manifesting the behavior you report to see if there is any change in power.

I believe the car is used, and thus somewhat of an unknown to you. It can be worth the effort to check all major electrical wiring/connections. The battery connections are almost always good but where the battery leads go to from the battery those connections are just as important. Any ground connection between the engine and chassis needs to be checked. In some areas of the country salt can really take a toll on these grounds.

You probably don't know what might have been done to the car before you bought it and someone might have left a connection loose.

While you are at the car check the cabin, door bottoms, trunk, under the dash (the carpets), everywhere for signs of moisture. In some cases water backing up in a body water drain can overflow and water gets where it shouldn't and havoc ensues. Be sure the engine controller area is dry, dry, dry.

From under the car follow all harnesses and check for any signs of damage -- from the car being lifted wrong to running over something or some road debris flying up. Be sure the harness wiring is properly routed and secured so the wiring can't flop about in the wind blast.

Check all exposed wiring harnesses for any sign of rodent damage. In some cases the insulation has something in it that seems to really encourage gnawing attacks not that the little buggers require any encouragement.

Be sure the under dash wiring is ok. In some cases an aftermarket stereo is installed -- even though it might have been removed before the car was sold -- and often these installations bring with them electrical gremlins.
 

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I experienced limp mode in my 2010 R/T for two reasons. The week I purchased the car it dropped into limp mode, the dealership found the problem right away, it was a bad solenoid in the transmission that they figured was bad from the factory. Later at the drag strip I found the car dropping into limp mode periodically. I would run drag radials at the track that weren't the same height as stock (only a bit shorter) which was apparently enough to confuse the PCM and cause it to go into limp mode. I talked to a lot of people when I was trying to figure out that problem and at the time others were running the same size drag radial and not having a problem, so of course they were saying tire size most likely wasn't the issue. But a new set of taller drag radials did the trick and no more limp mode.



Now most likely neither of those is your problem but there must be a very long list of things that it could be. My advice it to check with some other dealerships, sometimes it's just a matter of talking to the right mechanic. Good luck, I hope you get things straightened out soon.
 

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2018 Hellcat. 2017 Scatpack.
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sounds a lot like low voltage condition. seen it many times,exactly as you describe.
failing alt/volt reg/batt/heavy abnormal volt drain after start up.
just because the batt is new, doesnt mean its actually good or that its holding/has full charge.
have you checked for codes?
I would certainly start at the battery as its easier and cheaper to diag and rule out, then stripping out PCM, harnesses etc..which sounds a bit extreme to me.
Once you can confirm engine is getting good volt, work backwards from there.
 

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Years ago, I had a similar problem with my 1997 Thunderbird (4.6L). After driving the car for about 10-15 minutes, all of the warning lights on the dashboard would light up like a Christmas tree. If I continued to drive it, the engine would die. After having it diagnosed, it turned out that my alternator was not charging the battery. As a result, when I drove the car, I was running solely on battery power. Even though the battery was new, it couldn't handle all of the electrical loads. As the battery discharged, key systems, like ABS, starting shutting down.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the replies, guys.

The car is still at the dealership. They warrantied the TCM and replaced it after checking out the wiring behind the dash. No dice. Still doesn't work.

So it's still there. The mechanic said there was a problem with the C bus, which I assume is the CAN BUS? I couldn't ask him directly because he left early today. Worse part is, when I called to check on their progress, they said the car was ready. I get there and they say "oh, our mistake. It's not ready"

Not sure what else I can do.
 

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Thanks for the replies, guys.

The car is still at the dealership. They warrantied the TCM and replaced it after checking out the wiring behind the dash. No dice. Still doesn't work.

So it's still there. The mechanic said there was a problem with the C bus, which I assume is the CAN BUS? I couldn't ask him directly because he left early today. Worse part is, when I called to check on their progress, they said the car was ready. I get there and they say "oh, our mistake. It's not ready"

Not sure what else I can do.
Hello BlackGoku,

We're sorry to hear you're having a tough time. We're going to keep our eyes peeled for your future updates. At anytime, if you need an additional layer of assistance, don't hesitate to send our team a private message.

Jasmine
Dodge Social Care Specialist
 

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Hello BlackGoku,

We're sorry to hear you're having a tough time. We're going to keep our eyes peeled for your future updates. At anytime, if you need an additional layer of assistance, don't hesitate to send our team a private message.

Jasmine
Dodge Social Care Specialist
Thanks Jasmine. Hopefully, I'll have an update by the end of the week.
 

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So good news and bad news!

They found the issue... it was due to two cables behind the engine block that got fried. They repaired the cables and said it's better than brand new. No need to buy another wiring harness.

onto the bad news: They notified me of this last Wednesday. I still don't have my car. The manager said he has to adjust the price on the ticket so I'm not charged thousands of dollars. ok cool. He tells me the cost would be $315 for the labor and he cut the diagnostic fee to $95. But he hasn't done it yet until this morning.

I call in asking what the price would be, and they said it's over $700! Reason being, they provided a rental to me on their behalf. I've had it for 6 weeks and now Dodge wants to charge me over 300 for the rental when they provided it to me! I don't see how that's fair.

Perfect, BlackGoku.

Jasmine
Dodge Social Care Specialist
Jasmine, is there anything you can do with this? I would like to pay for the work they provided and not the rental. They did not let me know it was possible to incur charges. I received no calls on the days that I owe. I paid this dealership a lot of money for the TCM and battery that I didn't need.
 

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Dude, that dealership is straight ASS.COM. Those guys are ripping you apart.

1) Unless you signed a contract for the rental stating a daily/weekly charge, fight it.
2) You need to be reimbursed for the first two failed items that they convinced you to pay them outrageous amounts of money to install. They cannot install new parts that you pay for that do not fix the problem. You don't pay for those.

Go to corporate. Ask for a supervisor, and then a manager, and then a higher manager. Take the initiative and be very nice and courteous to those you speak to, and you'll likely get that money back and probably owe them nothing for all of this. Stress the time and inconvenience to your work/personal life due to that dogshit dealership's behavior.
 

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Good luck dude.
 

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So I had a nice, long conversation with the manager. He adjusted the price so I didn't have to pay for the rental.

I drove it around for 20 minutes and the issue didn't reoccur. I'll drive it some more tonight after work to further test out my ride.

Thanks guys for the kind words and advice. I'll now be able to fully participate in this forum! Just need to detail my car first.
 

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You need to call corporate to get your money back for the TCM and the other bogus shit they fixed. This issue was electrical from day one.
 
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You need to call and recoup some of that money. They should have caught those wires well before now. I know some of that stuff is hard to catch but dude you've been through the ringer with that car. I understand you are just happy to have it back but if that was me... I'm not half as nice as you.
Good work getting the rental free.
Glad your ride is back to normal. I hate hearing these stories. A great mechanic should have caught this without having to throw parts at it continuously then be like we don't know whats wrong with it..... It should have been brought to Dodge's attention to see if they could bring in someone with more knowledge.
 
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