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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone experienced something referred to as a "Limp Throttle Mode"? More specifically, have you noticed that when you punch the accelerator pedal, you experience a delay in throttle performance? For me, after a couple of weeks after first driving it off the lot, I've noticed a deterioration in throttle performance when "punching" the gas pedal. It seems like there's a momentary loss of power when I punch the gas pedal before the engine kicks in and gives me the acceleration I was expecting immediately. Some people have mentioned that this is an expected "learning curve" of my engine. I was just wondering if anyone else out there might be experiencing this same thing? Admittedly, I did have a few "Walter White" moments in some random parking lots after I first bought the car, and I seriously hope that I haven't somehow ****ed up the new engine before breaking it in. But after all, it *IS* a "muscle car", right? Isn't it built to do this kind of thing? This is my very first muscle car. To be honest, my previous vehicle was a new 2012 Nissan Juke with 187hp, and that was the most hp I've ever driven in my life. Okay, Okay... go ahead and laugh at me, I deserve it. I'll be the first to admit that I've had absolutely ZERO experience with muscle cars. I just turned 47, and I suppose it's safe to say that I'm more than likely going through a mid-life crisis. But I've recently realized that due to my age and some health issues, I've come to the realization that I should do what I really want to do and makes me happy while I still have time left on this planet. So yeah, I went ahead and bit the bullet and chose to treat myself to my dream car, even though I have no experience with it. Anyways, I'd be very grateful to hear of any other similar experiences. Thanks a lot for taking the time to read through this admittedly lengthy inquiry guys!

Peace out...
 

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I've read it on here before...about punching the accelerator and having a delay...I just got my challenger back from the dealership...and took my little brother for a ride today after he brags how fast his GTI is...mind you I have the challenger R/T with a supercharger...I pulled slowly out of my lotment stomped the gas...and no joke it was like I was in a gravity pull...the car oddly had a weird spot in it for like 2-3 seconds when the car went maybe 30-40mph max...which seemed like slow motion...needless to say my bro laughed his ass off...but after that things went smoothly... Just odd
 

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I've read it on here before...about punching the accelerator and having a delay...I just got my challenger back from the dealership...and took my little brother for a ride today after he brags how fast his GTI is...mind you I have the challenger R/T with a supercharger...I pulled slowly out of my lotment stomped the gas...and no joke it was like I was in a gravity pull...the car oddly had a weird spot in it for like 2-3 seconds when the car went maybe 30-40mph max...which seemed like slow motion...needless to say my bro laughed his ass off...but after that things went smoothly... Just odd
Hey “Jesusballer”,

Thanks for your immediate reply to my thread. After doing some experimenting with my R/T on my way home from work today, I happily discovered that if I press the “SPORT” mode button, I don’t get any delay in throttle response when gunning the gas pedal. It performs exactly the way I remember it performing when I took it for a test drive, and after driving it off the lot after taking possession of it. It is super responsive and “Punchy” in SPORT mode. Give that a try and lemme know what you think.

I really appreciate your reply. Take care buddy...
 

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Hey “Jesusballer”,

Thanks for your immediate reply to my thread. After doing some experimenting with my R/T on my way home from work today, I happily discovered that if I press the “SPORT” mode button, I don’t get any delay in throttle response when gunning the gas pedal. It performs exactly the way I remember it performing when I took it for a test drive, and after driving it off the lot after taking possession of it. It is super responsive and “Punchy” in SPORT mode. Give that a try and lemme know what you think.

I really appreciate your reply. Take care buddy...
Thanks Jason I'll have to try that out myself...quick question where exactly is the sport mode function?
 

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Thanks Jason I'll have to try that out myself...quick question where exactly is the sport mode function?
The “SPORT” mode button is located at the bottom of your center console right in between the “Hazard” button and the “Traction Control” button just in front of your gear stick. Pressing the “SPORT” mode button will display “SPORT” with a flag emblem on your EVIC.
 

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Your post made me laugh by how you went from reporting a problem to why you bought the car seamlessly... and I could recognize myself in your motivation (the MLC). :lol: Anyhoo, on to the problem:

I see you have an auto R/T. The transmission is very smart and does a lot of things to protect itself so don't worry too much about it. Now it is an older MBZ design and it can feel a little slow to downshift. And the car may be muscle, but if you drive it hard in Drive you may have other surprises by confusing it with your inputs. Thank microprocessors for that.

One thing to do is use Sport Mode, as you did, to tighten your shifts. The car feels more responsive. Another is to learn how to use the manual mode, AutoStick, via the shifter and paddles. Once you get the hang of it you'll enjoy engine braking and almost immediate downshifts (you can drop 2 gears at once). I'd personally use AutoStick for fun and use Drive for the boring commutes or lazy rides. The paddles are really fast.

Then you mentioned the 'learning'. The transmission is adaptive, which means that it analyzes how you drive and eventually matches its settings to your style. So that a car driven by a grandma will feel different from one driven by a street racer after a while. You can pull a fuse (#2) for a few seconds to reset the adaptives to the factory default if you feel that your car has become too sluggish. Or you can drive it hard and wait a few cycles for it to adapt to your new style. It will take some time.

Also, our favorite muscle car unfortunately has a fly-by-wire (electronic) throttle. Not the most responsive: just try blipping the throttle in Neutral. Again, it's so the computers can control and manage every aspect of your car's performance. And that, you can tighten with a tuner or a throttle booster. Eventually you'll want a tuner to get not only more throttle response, but also to do many other things (disable the MDS, adjust your computer to various wheel sizes, download engine tunes, and more).

Another observation since you're new to the platform: the electronic nannies rob you of some fun and performance. Their main goal is to save you from accidents and protect the car's components. When you drive for fun (burnouts, donuts, and other driving fun), turn off Traction Control (TC). Otherwise you may not notice the light flashing in your dash, but if you floor the car and get too much wheel spin, TC will pull timing, cut fuel, apply the brakes... in other words prevent the wheels from slipping and you from having fun. If you don't expect it, it can feel like the car dies on you.
And I don't know whether you have the STP (Super Trak Pak), but turning off the ESC (Electronic Stability Control or ESP for Program) will allow you even more latitude during aggressive driving. If the ESC starts applying the rear brakes while you're going for power slides, it may also feel like you don't have all the juice you should.
A word of caution: make sure you have the handling down before disabling the nannies. :icon_biggrin:

Now welcome and have lots of fun with this R/T! :cheers:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Your post made me laugh by how you went from reporting a problem to why you bought the car seamlessly... and I could recognize myself in your motivation (the MLC). :lol: Anyhoo, on to the problem:

I see you have an auto R/T. The transmission is very smart and does a lot of things to protect itself so don't worry too much about it. Now it is an older MBZ design and it can feel a little slow to downshift. And the car may be muscle, but if you drive it hard in Drive you may have other surprises by confusing it with your inputs. Thank microprocessors for that.

One thing to do is use Sport Mode, as you did, to tighten your shifts. The car feels more responsive. Another is to learn how to use the manual mode, AutoStick, via the shifter and paddles. Once you get the hang of it you'll enjoy engine braking and almost immediate downshifts (you can drop 2 gears at once). I'd personally use AutoStick for fun and use Drive for the boring commutes or lazy rides. The paddles are really fast.

Then you mentioned the 'learning'. The transmission is adaptive, which means that it analyzes how you drive and eventually matches its settings to your style. So that a car driven by a grandma will feel different from one driven by a street racer after a while. You can pull a fuse (#2) for a few seconds to reset the adaptives to the factory default if you feel that your car has become too sluggish. Or you can drive it hard and wait a few cycles for it to adapt to your new style. It will take some time.

Also, our favorite muscle car unfortunately has a fly-by-wire (electronic) throttle. Not the most responsive: just try blipping the throttle in Neutral. Again, it's so the computers can control and manage every aspect of your car's performance. And that, you can tighten with a tuner or a throttle booster. Eventually you'll want a tuner to get not only more throttle response, but also to do many other things (disable the MDS, adjust your computer to various wheel sizes, download engine tunes, and more).

Another observation since you're new to the platform: the electronic nannies rob you of some fun and performance. Their main goal is to save you from accidents and protect the car's components. When you drive for fun (burnouts, donuts, and other driving fun), turn off Traction Control (TC). Otherwise you may not notice the light flashing in your dash, but if you floor the car and get too much wheel spin, TC will pull timing, cut fuel, apply the brakes... in other words prevent the wheels from slipping and you from having fun. If you don't expect it, it can feel like the car dies on you.
And I don't know whether you have the STP (Super Trak Pak), but turning off the ESC (Electronic Stability Control or ESP for Program) will allow you even more latitude during aggressive driving. If the ESC starts applying the rear brakes while you're going for power slides, it may also feel like you don't have all the juice you should.
A word of caution: make sure you have the handling down before disabling the nannies. :icon_biggrin:

Now welcome and have lots of fun with this R/T! :cheers:
Hello "USRWDV8",

I'm not quite sure (but mostly sure) you were replying to one of my posts because the quote you included with your reply was not mine. However, it does indeed sound like you were replying to me, and for that, I would like to express my sincerest gratitude to you. You definitely sound as though you know EXACTLY what you are speaking about, and I must admit I've learned a LOT from just your single response, so I want to thank you for that.

So... Several questions immediately come to mind (and please forgive me if I seem uneducated about this stuff, because believe me when I say, I sure as shit am!:

1. What does "MLC" mean?

2. What does "MBZ design" mean?

3. By pulling "Fuse #2", will that reset my engines performance to the way it felt after I test drove it and eventually drove it off the lot for the first time after being handed the keys?

4. What does "MDS" stand for?

Dear God, if I've still got your attention thus far, I applaud you. You simply MUST be a saint. I'm such a "newbie" to all of this new car technology. I feel like such a complete idiot. I realize I'm really putting myself out there for an onslaught of hatred. So thank you man! SERIOUSLY!

5. I in fact do have the Super Trak Pak, and I think I've become pretty familiar with it. I know to hold down the traction control for 5 seconds to completely disable the ESP traction control when I want to pull a "Walter White", and trust me, it has been a helluva lot of fun (albeit quite espensive due to shredding the tires and having to replace them twice!).

I have to admit your first sentence made me cringe because I anticipated that you were going to jump up and down me for being a newbie. But after reading through your entire message, I realized that you were a decent human being just trying to help a buddy out. And for that, I sincerely thank you. I am going to take every single word of your advice to heart and apply all of it to my adventure in getting to know my sweet new ride!

Thanks again buddy. Take care man. :cheers:
 

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Hey, JasonQ. Yes, I was replying to you and didn't exactly quote you, but took the term 'learning' from your first post:
Some people have mentioned that this is an expected "learning curve" of my engine. I was just wondering if anyone else out there might be experiencing this same thing?
OK,

1. MLC = MidLife Crisis! Another thing I took from your post. :icon_lol:

2. MBZ design: Daimler owned Chrysler from '98 to '07 so many Chrysler/Dodge models have some MBZ (Mercedes Benz) DNA. In particular, the 5-speed automatic transmission is a Mercedes design built under license in the US (Kokomo, IN, plant). I experienced my first one on a Mercedes S500. It's dated now, but is tank-like and works very well.

3. Pulling fuse # 2 will reset the adaptives to factory default. I don't know how many miles your R/T had when you test drove it, how it was driven, or how you drove it after the sale (looks like you had some fun). So all I can tell you is that you go back to default and if it's sluggish now it should wake up. The difference is not dramatic, though.
Another thing: your engine's VVT (Variable Valve Timing = better fuel economy AND performance) is programmed to become active only after 3,750 miles. At that time you should also feel the engine waking up some more and see your gas mileage increase (I think mine went up about 0.5-1 mpg)!

4. MDS: Multi-Displacement System. It's what makes your V8 only run on 4 cylinders when you drive economically (under a certain load level, when you go easy on the throttle). It's only working when in Drive (automatic), not in AutoStick (manual mode), and it will save you some gas.
Many people disable the MDS for several reasons, like the fact that running on 4 cylinders causes an annoying vibration and exhaust drone, or that they feel a muscle car should always run on 8 cylinders, or that MDS has been creating some issues with the VVT resulting in some broken timing chains on cars before 2012.

5. Good on you for having the STP and enjoying ESP off! :bigthumb:

Now don't worry about being new to the forum or unfamiliar with the car, man: we already know that you at least have good taste! And don't be so formal: we're all here to learn and share and it's a (mostly) good group. I always 'liked' cars myself, but was never a 'car guy' or 'enthusiast' so before buying my Charger in 2010 and joining their forum, I knew almost nothing of all this. Moving on to the Challenger after 2 years I had learned a lot, but am still a student.
Now you'll find that all the above is common knowledge here and can be found in many stickies. If I were you, I'd catch up with a lot of old threads to get up to speed - this will greatly enhance your enjoyment of the forum. But feel free to ask all the questions you want. :icon7:

P.S. I am not a saint. :satan:
 

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That one went over my head, but I don't want to hijack JasonQ's thread. If it's about my OCD, I'd have you know I prefer to be considered detail-oriented or disorder-challenged! :eek:fftopic::D
 

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Discussion Starter #13
3. Pulling fuse # 2 will reset the adaptives to factory default. I don't know how many miles your R/T had when you test drove it, how it was driven, or how you drove it after the sale (looks like you had some fun). So all I can tell you is that you go back to default and if it's sluggish now it should wake up. The difference is not dramatic, though.
It had 48 miles on it when I bought it. Assuming those were all test drives, the salesmen tend to drive it pretty hard, just no donuts and other "fun stuff". And I can say that I've had my share of "fun" with it so far. :naughty:

Another thing: your engine's VVT (Variable Valve Timing = better fuel economy AND performance) is programmed to become active only after 3,750 miles. At that time you should also feel the engine waking up some more and see your gas mileage increase (I think mine went up about 0.5-1 mpg)!
I sure hope so. According to my EVIC, I'm averaging just 13.6mpg so far! That's well below the estimated 18mpg on the sticker.

4. MDS: Multi-Displacement System. It's what makes your V8 only run on 4 cylinders when you drive economically (under a certain load level, when you go easy on the throttle). It's only working when in Drive (automatic), not in AutoStick (manual mode), and it will save you some gas.
Many people disable the MDS for several reasons, like the fact that running on 4 cylinders causes an annoying vibration and exhaust drone, or that they feel a muscle car should always run on 8 cylinders, or that MDS has been creating some issues with the VVT resulting in some broken timing chains on cars before 2012.
How do I go about disabling my MDS? I don't particularly care for the 4 cylinder option. I specifically bought a V8 because I want to drive a V8. :yesnod: Thanks again for all of your super helpful advice man! :thanks:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
USRWD is a class act and one funny guy too. But he's no saint. Lol
Here's a picture of the fuse #2 he's talking about.
View attachment 162809
And welcome to CT.

Thanks for the nice BIG pic of fuse #2 HemiZSP! Now, here's probably the dumbest question of the day... Is there a fuse puller somewhere in the vehicle, or do I use my fingers or some needle nose pliers to remove it?
 

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How do I go about disabling my MDS? I don't particularly care for the 4 cylinder option. I specifically bought a V8 because I want to drive a V8. :yesnod: Thanks again for all of your super helpful advice man! :thanks:
Not a problem, JasonQ. Seems like your car is getting driven 'like it should be' so I doubt the adaptives are the reason for your sluggish throttle. Since you also hate the MDS a tuner would be the way to kill two birds with one stone. You should look into the most popular here, inTune or Trinity, from DiabloSport. In the meantime, if you want V8 power all the time you've got to put the car in manual mode, as explained earlier (using shifter and/or paddles).

As far as mileage, yours is low, but V8s can go from abysmal to surprisingly good, and it all depends on how much you flog them. Threads on mileage should give you an idea of what others get.
 
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