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2013 Challenger SXT
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Discussion Starter #1
I'm getting ready to install some camber offset bushing and I measured my neg. camber and I'm coming up with -.9 degrees of neg camber, which translate into 5/16" of "tilt in" at the top.

I'm going to straighten this up closer to zero for better 1/4 mile traction and I just want to compare notes to the factory specs.

I did this to my 2013 challenger SXT and it had 1.75 degrees of neg camber and I installed the bushing and got it to -.3 degrees, the stated 1.5 degree offset bushing came up a tad short of it's full 1.5 degrees.

I just assumed the SRT 392 had same 1.75 neg. camber, but maybe it don't, it appears to be closer to -.9 degrees and I want to confirm with the factory specs to make sure all is well.
 

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I don't have a link, but I have all the numbers for 2011-14 SRT

Left front
camber -0.5° to - 1.6
Caster 9.3° to 7.3
Toe 0.05° to 0.15

Right front
Camber - 1.9° to -. 8
Caster 8.0 to 10.0
Toe 0.15 to 0.05


_____________

Cross camber -0.3 to 0.9
Cross caster -1.3 to - 0.1
Total toe 0.1 to 0.3

_____________


Left rear
Camber -0.2 to -1.3
Toe -0.05 to 0.25

Right is the same as left

____________

Total toe rear -0.1 to 0.5
Thrust angle -0.15 to 0.15

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

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2013 Challenger SXT
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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks so much! I looked around the internet and saw a couple of folks who had print outs of their stock cars. I was seeing -.8 degrees of camber as a target point on the rear tires.

So my math came out to -.895 degrees of camber on my SRT 392, just wanted to make sure it was good, I was expecting -1.75 or so. Thought maybe i figured wrong.

So things look good then. I was going to cut a half of coil off the rear to stiffen spring rate, which this will lower the car about 3/4" or so, this will cause the camber to get worse. So I think I might shoot for + 1.0 degree on the bushing and maybe I will come close to zero camber with outgoing into positive camber.

So the rear will come down about 3/4" and I'm sticking 295 tires under the rear so they will raise the car about a 1/4", so that will put my car at level. Since i have only 1/2" of rake from front to back.
 

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2015 Challenger RT/STP A8
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Hello All, can the Camber and Caster on these cars be adjusted when taken for alignment? The reason I ask is that I just took my car to Firestone to get aligned. The tech told me at the end that they adjusted the toe but could not adjust the camber or caster on this vehicle. Something along the lines of that's how it came from Dodge and they dont have an adjustment available.

Left me wondering if this is the case...any thoughts?
 

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0 degrees, or straight up, is not recommended, even for straight line acceleration, you would still want -.05 at the least.
 

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2015 RT 5.7 M6
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"If individual front camber or caster is found not to meet alignment specifications, each can be adjusted by shifting the engine cradle if cross-camber and cross-caster are within specifications, or by using an available service adjustment bolt package. Always try to shift the cradle first (if camber and caster are off slightly) to correct the misalignment before installing an adjustment bolt package. If an adjustment bolt package installation is necessary, inspect the suspension components for any signs of damage or bending first. Refer to the following procedures for adjustments.

If individual rear camber is found not to meet alignment specifications, repair camber links are available in Plus or Minus One Millimeter (1 mm) lengths. A Plus or Minus 1 mm repair camber link will change camber approximately 0.5-0.7 degrees in the preferred direction. Before installing non-standard length camber links on a vehicle found to be outside the specifications, inspect the suspension components for any signs of damage or bending. To install either repair camber link.
"
 

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They are correct that caster and camber aren't normally adjusted with factory hardware.

You can shift the cradle, get aftermarket bolts or control arms to make it adjustable, but you really shouldn't have to unless the car has been in an accident serious enough to bend things.

My car is a 2016 Scat Pack. No accident history. For whatever reason, these cars are on the edge of spec for camber and caster when new. I'm thinking as springs settle and ride height changes, it goes on the edge or slightly out of spec. That doesn't necessarily mean there is a problem.

I did an alignment because my steering wheel was a bit off center. The camber and caster might be technically out of spec, but the cross camber and cross camber are fine. I Got the toe dialled in and it drives straight as an arrow. No pulling, and so far no abnormal wear. I'll post up the printout.
 

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They are correct that caster and camber aren't normally adjusted with factory hardware.

You can shift the cradle, get aftermarket bolts or control arms to make it adjustable, but you really shouldn't have to unless the car has been in an accident serious enough to bend things.

My car is a 2016 Scat Pack. No accident history. For whatever reason, these cars are on the edge of spec for camber and caster when new. I'm thinking as springs settle and ride height changes, it goes on the edge or slightly out of spec. That doesn't necessarily mean there is a problem.

I did an alignment because my steering wheel was a bit off center. The camber and caster might be technically out of spec, but the cross camber and cross camber are fine. I Got the toe dialled in and it drives straight as an arrow. No pulling, and so far no abnormal wear. I'll post up the printout.
977855
 

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2015 RT 5.7 M6
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2016 Scat Pack Shaker
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I installed Spohn adjustable control arms in the rear suspension of my 2016 Scat Pack last week. The purpose of the Spohn arms is to improve bite on the drag strip. The vehicle just turned 12K miles today. While street tires are wearing very well, the drag radials are wearing very badly on the inside edge.

The vehicle was aligned today buy a Custom shop. As the print out shows, basically very little of the alignments specs were within tolerance. Nonetheless, the car felt ok in all driving conditions. I had rear camber basically set to zero and total toe set to .1. Front toe was adjusted to be within spec as well.

On the 25 mile ride home today handling and steering was noticeably better in all respects.
977879
 

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2015 Challenger RT/STP A8
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They are correct that caster and camber aren't normally adjusted with factory hardware.

You can shift the cradle, get aftermarket bolts or control arms to make it adjustable, but you really shouldn't have to unless the car has been in an accident serious enough to bend things.

My car is a 2016 Scat Pack. No accident history. For whatever reason, these cars are on the edge of spec for camber and caster when new. I'm thinking as springs settle and ride height changes, it goes on the edge or slightly out of spec. That doesn't necessarily mean there is a problem.

I did an alignment because my steering wheel was a bit off center. The camber and caster might be technically out of spec, but the cross camber and cross camber are fine. I Got the toe dialled in and it drives straight as an arrow. No pulling, and so far no abnormal wear. I'll post up the printout.
Thanks for your input BlackHemi41! I purchased my car new from the dealer, and I have not been involved in any accidents (knock on wood!).

I also had not felt any pull to one side or the other. I guess the real reason why I had my car aligned was because Firestone had a special going on for the lifetime alignment. I decided to take advantage, my thought being that it wont hurt to have it aligned. Being that I am planning to keep this car for a while it also made sense to purchase the lifetime alignment.

Will put up my alignment sheet later once I get home, to share the results!
 

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2015 Challenger RT/STP A8
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I installed Spohn adjustable control arms in the rear suspension of my 2016 Scat Pack last week. The purpose of the Spohn arms is to improve bite on the drag strip. The vehicle just turned 12K miles today. While street tires are wearing very well, the drag radials are wearing very badly on the inside edge.

The vehicle was aligned today buy a Custom shop. As the print out shows, basically very little of the alignments specs were within tolerance. Nonetheless, the car felt ok in all driving conditions. I had rear camber basically set to zero and total toe set to .1. Front toe was adjusted to be within spec as well.

On the 25 mile ride home today handling and steering was noticeably better in all respects. View attachment 977879
Thanks for your input Rob46!
My current measurements section looks similar to yours, the only red on mine is left/front camber and caster only. All the other sections are within the alignment tolerances. I'll share it once I'm home.
 

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I installed the Spohn rear links as well as the SPC adjustable A arms up front. Zero camber in the rears with me in the car. All 4 corners changed .1 with me in / out of the car! This alone I picked up 2 tenths on my 0-60.

Fronts are set at .25 and .50 neg up front. The car handles like a dream while gaining straight line traction and losing nothing in the corners. I run 315's in the rear and 225's up front.
 

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I installed the Spohn rear links as well as the SPC adjustable A arms up front. Zero camber in the rears with me in the car. All 4 corners changed .1 with me in / out of the car! This alone I picked up 2 tenths on my 0-60.

Fronts are set at .25 and .50 neg up front. The car handles like a dream while gaining straight line traction and losing nothing in the corners. I run 315's in the rear and 225's up front.
Hey Gene, I didn't test before and after like you did but I did get on it hard enough that the street tires would have gone up in smoke with the stock pieces and camber. With the Spohn control arms set to 0 camber there was a lot more bite. Can't wait for the weather to cool off so I can get back to Atlanta Dragway. Upper 90's as I am writing this ?
 
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