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Discussion Starter #1
About 20 minutes into my drive home from work Saturday afternoon my cars ABS and Traction Control light as well as my brake light came on, my speedometer was jumping up and down, I pull off the freeway and as soon as I got to the intersection I lost my power steering. Pulled in to the first gas station and parked it, turned the car off and 2 minutes later lost all power. Key fob is stuck in ignition, no lights come on as I turn the key, car won?t even crank over. Any ideas? It?s a 2012 Challenger RT
 

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Wow...quite a display of utter refusal from your Challenger. Try and google the symptoms and get an idea. Otherwise, these cars have become so sophisticated these days with their sensors, modules, software and related computers. It really does pay to have a trained, experienced professional diagnose it. The complexity has become ridiculous in my opinion.
 

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It sounds like electrical system.

When the alternators go out, voltage drops and all sorts of symptoms. Another possibility is the TIPM might have been affected, but the charging system would need to be checked to see if its working properly.

If it was running under spec, the battery ran down until the voltage levels were below the threshold for the systems to operate properly.
 

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Why would an electrical/computer problem cause the key to stuck in the ignition? I am thinking something happened to the ignition switch.
 

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Why would an electrical/computer problem cause the key to stuck in the ignition? I am thinking something happened to the ignition switch.
Many of the internal circuits run 5V or even 3.3V when the input supply of 12V is fed into them. When the voltage is out of range, they won't operate correctly or shut down to protect the device.

Often when the voltage drops, the current flowing through may increase beyond the normal rate and cause the component to fail. That is another reason why they design to shut down in case of out of operating range voltage.

The ignition switch has solenoids that lock / unlock and allow the fob to turn.
 
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2015 SRT, 6 Speed, Sublime Green
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Too late now, but if you had been able to hook it up to be jump started you may have been able to determine for sure that the charging system was failing. Checking the voltage of the battery after the fact would have been telling too. Of course, this stuff isn’t easy to do in a remote location while stranded. Wouldn’t fix it, but would have put you on the right path. Good luck with the repairs. Please let us know the outcome....
 

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Too late now, but if you had been able to hook it up to be jump started you may have been able to determine for sure that the charging system was failing. Checking the voltage of the battery after the fact would have been telling too. Of course, this stuff is t easy to do in a remote location while stranded. Wouldn’t fix it, but would have put you on the right path. Good luck with the repairs. Please let us know the outcome....
Unfortunately, the various gauges that we have on the '15+ models - all you got on the '14 and earlier were Oil PSI, Oil Temp.

The displays for coolant temp (in degrees) and battery voltage were in hidden EVIC screens, that took a combination of buttons to bring up (not common knowledge for most).
-the radio head units (even touchscreen Nav) were more basic systems compared to the 8.4" uConnect setup.

there were analog gauges for coolant temperature and fuel, along with speedo and tach.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Turns out to be the alternator, $757 to have it replaced at the dealership. I will be reimbursed as it is a recall but they don?t have parts yet.
 
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