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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Sorry this is my first post but I'm looking for some input on several issues I’m having.

Last May I traded in my 2015 Scat Pack standard for a 2017 Scat Pack Shaker auto. I put 25,000 miles on the first Scat Pack and the only complaint I had was rattling glove box (there was a recall on the radiator, but the dealer brought it to my attention and took care of it in a day). So after about a month of driving the Shaker, it started to feel like the transmission was in some kind of tow mode with the lower gears always revving high. I also noticed I wasn’t getting the same gas mileage and the oil temp was running warmer than my 2015. Brought it up when I did a 3000 mile oil change but since there wasn’t any leaking and no error codes decided to give it some more time for break in.

February and around 5000 miles and still no improvement. I previously tried pulling the fuse and verifying Hill Assist is turned off but no improvement. It happens in stop and go traffic and especially on a turn running up to 3000 rpms - this is with light acceleration. 4th gear and up feel fine. I’ve also started noticing a scraping noise with moderate acceleration. I’ve been to the dealer several times and on top of that several other issues have popped up. I’m getting either “can’t reproduce problem” or “that’s just the way these cars are” and I drive away and tell myself it’s my driving but it feels far from right.
Revving:
Rattle/Scraping:
(I noticed this about a month ago. I don't drive like this but heard it the first time bouncing off an underpass wall when merging into freeway access road traffic)

And here’s the “on top of that”:
Started getting a clunking in the rear end on deceleration. Almost always happens when downshifting around 2nd gear but I’ve even noticed it in 5th gear. It showed up after the first flash, but I wouldn’t think a flash would cause it. The very first clip in the video shows it happening after coming to a stop and cause the car to lurch forward:

Front end started making a twangy noise. Sounds kind of like if you held the end of a ruler to a desk and flicked the long end. Originally it seemed to come from the drivers side but has gotten louder and comes from both sides. The audio doesn’t completely capture the twang but I think it’s fairly audible:

I’m taking it to a different dealer tomorrow. Any ideas?
One other thing. A Drive Mode button showed up after the first flash but doesn’t really work. Anyone else have this and does it work?

Thanks for any input
-T

Edit: Reached 10 posts (yay!). Added accompanying videos.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Called and spoke with a Service Advisor yesterday. Took my car in and he had me take him for a drive. Car wasn't at its peak but all the conditions were reproducible. Only hiccup I ran into was they won't provide a loaner unless I purchased the vehicle from them. At this point I don't mind paying for a rental if it means my car will be repaired, it's the minor logistics of scheduling a rental (he said at least four days) to coincide with how long the repairs take...
 

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Called and spoke with a Service Advisor yesterday. Took my car in and he had me take him for a drive. Car wasn't at its peak but all the conditions were reproducible. Only hiccup I ran into was they won't provide a loaner unless I purchased the vehicle from them. At this point I don't mind paying for a rental if it means my car will be repaired, it's the minor logistics of scheduling a rental (he said at least four days) to coincide with how long the repairs take...
Hello DCSPS 2017,

Have you heard anything about the diagnosis? If you need an additional layer of assistance, please let us know. We'd be glad to help.

Jasmine
Dodge Social Care Specialist
 

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Discussion Starter #4
It's scheduled to be dropped off on Monday so no diagnosis yet. I didn't leave the car on Wednesday because he couldn't tell me when they would be able to get to it. After some back and forth yesterday we came up with Monday for an appointment.
 

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It's scheduled to be dropped off on Monday so no diagnosis yet. I didn't leave the car on Wednesday because he couldn't tell me when they would be able to get to it. After some back and forth yesterday we came up with Monday for an appointment.
Please contact the Dodge Cares specialist so that they can open a case number and work the issue from both ends. It should not matter where you purchased your vehicle from, they should make every effort to handle the costs if it is under warranty. I have extensive experience with Dodge's warranty service and trust me when I say that you are in for a ride. They will keep that vehicle for nearly a month while they troubleshoot with the STAR Team and if replace anything if necessary. If you are truly prepared to pay for a months worth of rental fees then by all means go for it. I would highly advise that you contact the Dodge Cares department in that post above and let them take care of you. If you do not, the dealership will rake you over the coals and do it with a smile. I have had to replace my motor, transmission, and exhaust on my vehicle. Between two dealerships my experience was nearly the same. Remember this, the service department is not authorized to make decisions for themselves as far as diagnostics and ordering parts. The STAR Team will require the service department to run through a gamut of tests before they proceed. The process goes like this: Day 1 - STAR Team says do test and dealer does it and uploads results. A day or two later STAR Team says do another test of some sort which the dealer will do and upload the results. Another day goes by and it is the weekend where you car is moved outside to sit while other cars are worked. STAR Team responds on Monday with a response of do another test or replace X part. If it it is another test then rinse repeat. If it is parts replacement then dealer must get supplier to release part and ship it which will take another 7-10 days or more depending on back order. Part comes in after 10 days and service department must schedule your car to get repaired. Car finally goes in for repair and another day or two will go by until it is signed off as good to go.

At that point you better hope the it fixed the problem or you are back to square one. As you can see, that troubleshooting/repair process can easily go three weeks or more with all that testing and communicating. If your problem is not a clear cut issue and requires some digging then you will be without your vehicle for quite some time. Contact Dodge Cares and let them help you with putting pressure on the dealer and possibly covering some costs.
 

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Front end started making a twangy noise. Sounds kind of like if you held the end of a ruler to a desk and flicked the long end. Originally it seemed to come from the drivers side but has gotten louder and comes from both sides. The audio doesn’t completely capture the twang but I think it’s fairly audible.
When do you hear this noise? I once had a similar problem with another one of my cars. It was a broken motor mount.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
@grimmysnr It's already been a long ride. I came here (challengertalk) because I'd found helpful info here over the past few months. Ultimately was hoping I could link videos, get feedback from other owners, and then go in with "Can you please check XXX?" Granted I don't expect the Service Department to make a complete diagnosis based on description or a video (I sent links to this Service Advisor) but it should help to narrow down where to look and help them reproduce the problem.

I have been in contact with FCA. Here's the LONG version:

Moved to a different city in February. Located the local Dodge dealership and brought the car in for the transmission (late shifting in low gears, high oil temp, and low gas mileage) and Uconnect (not saving some settings when powered off).
- "Reprogram TCM and perform quick learn" was done. They gave me a loaner, had the car all day, called at 5:30 to say it's all done and ready to be picked up. When I showed up and went to the Service Desk, the Service Advisor exchanged keys and said your car is ready to go. On the way home from the dealership I heard a loud thump come from the rear when I went to slow down (like two miles away from the dealership) but didn't think much of it at the time (just thought it was something on the road). The following day took the car for a long ride to see how the transmission was responding and to give the adaptives some time to do their thing(?) and noticed a rear thump on downshifting on almost every deceleration. Also discovered Performance Pages was no longer working. No real change in the transmission. This is also when I first heard the front end rattle. I waited 10 days to go back to the dealership just to be sure I wasn't being nitpicky...

Back to the dealership a week and a half later for the above issues and also asked if they could check the transmission fluid:
- Service Advisor told me they checked the fluid level and it was normal but the invoice has "No fluid leak at this time"
- "Reset radio"
- "Unable to duplicate described condition at this time" (tech response to the front end rattle)
- They confirmed the rear end clunk and told me they would have to order parts (3-4 days) but otherwise the vehicle was safe to drive so I opted to take it home rather than leave it waiting on parts. Got into the car and checked Performance Pages before leaving the dealership, still not working. Also noticed my gas mileage was down to 13 mpg. I went back inside to ask the Service Advisor about the Performance Pages and he got someone else (who turned out to be the Service Manager) to help. The Manager came out to the car with a USB he got out of his desk and flashed the Uconnect again. After about an hour, Performance Pages was working but Navigation wasn't and the time was off by 45 minutes. I drove home and let it set overnight thinking to just give it time but the next morning when I started the car up a Chrysler splash screen displayed and the background was a blue/gray/silver/gold theme not the red/gray/black Dodge theme. Spent that morning researching (lot of info on challengertalk) and went to the Uconnect site and downloaded the linked flash for my VIN. Flashed the Uconnect myself, restored the Dodge theme but no Navigation, Performance Pages, or Radio. Tried to find a customer support phone number for Uconnect but ended up with FCA and opening a case number. Was told I would be assigned a rep who would contact me in 2-3 days.

10 days later, still no word from FCA or the dealership (ordered rear end parts) so I called FCA back and was assigned a Case Manager. Still hadn't heard back from the dealership so the next day I went in. Same Service Advisor, said they had the rear end parts in but now were going to replace the head unit and it would be another week for it to arrive.
One week later I drop off my car. Repairs take 5 days (not enough rear end parts were ordered) and I pick up:
- "Radio and Telematics Gateway Module - Test and Replace Exchange Unit"
- "Rear Differential Mount, Replace One"
- "Unable to duplicate described condition at this time" (again, tech response to the front end rattle - by now it's been nearly a month since I first noticed this sound and now I'm completely sure my 2015 didn't make it, plus it's becoming louder)
This time when he hands me my keys and say my car is ready to go I ask him to come out and verify the repairs. I also insist that the front end rattle is easy to reproduce. Took two different people out for ride alongs, one confirmed the rattle but said "it would be like finding a needle in a haystack". Back to the Uconnect, still not holding time :)45 minutes slow). After some exchanged I'm told "Give it another 5000 miles your invoice is on the front seat have a nice day".
Spent the weekend trying not to lose my sh!t and called FCA on Monday. She had communicated with the dealership already which reported the car was completely repaired. I explained everything from my end and that I wasn't going to return to that dealership. I told her I'd have to call her back (she said she was going to close the case if she didn't hear back from me by the end of the week).

So here is where I got the idea to "capture" the issues to expedite the process at the next dealership and spent the better part of the week trying driving around with different cameras. Video wasn't an issue, sound range on the other hand... is whole other discussion.

02 Apr I contacted the FCA rep who made an appointment for the following day with the Service Manager at the next dealership. This dealership doesn't provide loaners and their go to car rental agency was completely out of cars that day. Their transmission tech was also injured so I was going to have to wait anyways. They also wanted to find out from the first dealership what all was done to the car. AND they invoiced a "look at fee" of $110 for each item which was 5 in all from the way the Service Advisor wrote it up.

Calling back and forth for a week but their transmission tech ended having to have surgery and ultimately be out for some time. I brought it in for my 6000 mile oil change and asked if there was anything else they could also look at after the oil change. The tech was able to repair the time issue (setting to Synch with GPS causes the clock to be :45 minutes slow even after manually setting time) by performing a "hard reset with capacitor discharge"***. So the clock was fixed. Small victories :)

That brings us to about a few days before my first post here. I spent the week following the oil change recording and clipping videos to hopefully expedite the process.

***This (capacitor discharge) may or may not help some people with some of the other Uconnect issues. Not sure, just putting it out there as it did fix the GPS clock synch. I also noticed conflicting info in the flash process: On Uconnect's website there is a video explaining the process and states the car does not have to be running during the flash however in the .pdf guide on their site it says the engine must be running. I can't link but if you search "08-007-17-REV.H.pdf" and look on page 6 towards the bottom "CAUTION! The engine must be running and radio powered on..."
 

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Discussion Starter #8
@Cuda340 Thanks for your input. It's most consistently reproduced when going over bumps - not so much speed bumps but the kind of cracks you find in older parking lots where the slabs meet and some settling has occured. Perhaps another description would be that it sounds like dropping a billiard ball onto a pool table from a short height?

-T
 

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Just an update - videos were able to be linked.
Car has been at the dealership since the 23rd. Went by last Friday and they said they were no error codes and would look into other things.
@Cuda340 if you get a chance can you listen to the 4th video and let me know if that sounds similar to what your car sounded like?

-T
 

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Just an update - videos were able to be linked.
Car has been at the dealership since the 23rd. Went by last Friday and they said they were no error codes and would look into other things.
@Cuda340 if you get a chance can you listen to the 4th video and let me know if that sounds similar to what your car sounded like?
The 4th video is Dancing with the Stars, lol. :laugh2:

The "cracking" noise, caused by my broken motor mount, only occurred under acceleration, when the torque of the engine lifted itself off the mount and then slammed itself down.
 

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The 4th video is Dancing with the Stars, lol. :laugh2:

The "cracking" noise, caused by my broken motor mount, only occurred under acceleration, when the torque of the engine lifted itself off the mount and then slammed itself down.
Literally Dancing with the Stars? Weird. As for the rest, thanks, I think mine is more suspension related.

-T
 
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