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Hey guys I'm looking to buy a Challenger RT with the manual transmission. unfortunately I can't get a newer 2015 plus due to financial issues so I'll be looking for 2009 to probably 2013 ish.

I'm definitely going to keep it under a hundred thousand kilometres which is 60000 Miles.

Anything in particular you guys can recommend me watching out for to avoid problems.

Thanks for any help I can get
 

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2015 RT 5.7 M6
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I believe 2010-2011s had recalls on timing chain guide (autos only but a good idea to replace on a manual), alternators and WIN module (key fobs would not work) so be sure to check that has been done. You can log onto the chilton site and lookup TSBs for particular years to see what are some common issues/problems.

The pre-2015 models with manual transmissions also had a common problem of difficult shifting especially during cold weather. The problem was, the "wrong" lube was used on the input shaft and the fix was a new lube but it requires removal of the trans to do so. Also, not sure if this is specific to the early models but it seems that some (have seen quite a few posts on the forum) have had electrical issues (specifially keyfob not work) after battery has been removed or has gone bad. Manual trans vehicles also see to be more prone to develop a whine in the rear diff. And lastly, the earlier models used rubber dampers on the prop shaft and over time the dampers degrade. Oh and check the intake manifold to head area for signs of fuel stains as the bolts usually loosen over time. That is all I can think of off the top of my head.
 

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Hey guys I'm looking to buy a Challenger RT with the manual transmission. unfortunately I can't get a newer 2015 plus due to financial issues so I'll be looking for 2009 to probably 2013 ish.

I'm definitely going to keep it under a hundred thousand kilometres which is 60000 Miles.

Anything in particular you guys can recommend me watching out for to avoid problems.

Thanks for any help I can get
ChallyTatum gave you some specifics.

I can offer some general things...
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Used Dodge Challenger check out:

My general advice is to visit the used car cold, open the hood and check the oil level, leaving the hood open. Give the other vital fluid levels a visual check at least to ensure none are low. While any low fluid levels is unlikely you want to check and consider if any low this could be a warning flag.

In the car start the engine. Be sure all warning lights come on and then go off once the engine has started. Pay particular attention to the CEL. Be sure the A/C is off. You test the A/C later.

Let the engine idle from cold. You want to listen for any signs of ticking/noises or any other signs the engine may not be healthy. A rough idle, backfires, spitting back, anything out of the ordinary.

If available, call up the Performance Pages app and view coolant and oil temperature and pressure and battery voltage. You want these displayed as you get first a test ride then have a test drive.

Get out of the car and walk around the car checking body panel finish, alignment, and gaps. Note the condition of the wheels, looking for any curb rash. Check the tires. Ideally they should be factory sanctioned tires and in good condition. Check the brakes, look at the rotors for signs of damage/excessive wear -- a lip around the rotor outer diameter.

Check the hood and trunk hinges for any signs the fasteners have had wrenches on them. At the front carefully check the radiator fasteners for any signs of wrenching.

After some few minutes of the engine idling -- the longer the better -- and with the engine still running ok and sounding ok have the seller take you on a test ride. The route should be around 15 miles long and chosen to give the driver a chance to demo the car as you intend to use it. What is wanted is a mix of city driving with stop and go, steady moderate speed cruising on like a boulevard, and some highway/freeway driving. Ideally there should be some opportunities -- once the engine is up to temperature -- for some rather hard acceleration with the driver starting out from a standstill or a slow roll and accelerating hard up through at least a couple of gears. No need to smoke the tires or try to duplicate the factory's 0 to 60mph time but you want to experience the engine under hard acceleration to verify it pulls good, runs right, and afterwards shows no ill effects from the hard acceleration.

While a passenger of course pay attention to how the transmission shifts, how the car rides, feels. The car should not want to pull to one side or the other and the hard acceleration should give the driver a chance to perform a hard braking. No tire lock up but you want to verify the brakes have plenty of bite and the car tracks straight under hard braking.

With an automatic I recommend having the driver do a k-turn with the engine/transmission cold to see how the transmission reacts to repeated/rapid changes in direction.

After the 15 mile test ride then back at the starting point -- leaving the engine running -- get behind the wheel and drive the car over the same 15 mile test route and drive it pretty much the same way although since the car is unknown to you you can dial back on the hard acceleration test. You don't want to let the car get away from you and wrap it around a telephone pole.

And with the engine/transmission now up to temperature you do the k-turn to once again see how the transmission reacts to repeated/rapid changes in direction.

After your 15 mile test drive then at the starting point if you still like the car confirm all systems work. From the head lights to the tail lights. From the horn to the back up camera (if fitted). The A/C. Check all the controls. The wipers. Everything.

At this point if you still like the car and believe you can buy it for a good price -- based on your market research -- it is good idea to arrange to have the car given a pre-purchase inspection (PPI) by a tech who is qualified to evaluate the car. A Dodge dealer tech can be used. These guys evaluate trade ins all the time.

This gets the car in the air so a check can be made for any leak sign. At the same time a check can be made for any signs of damage or damage repair.

You want to really experience the car in its natural state: engine running and on the road. All cars generally look good on the lot. But it is how they look and run and feel and sound and smell on the road, or after being on the road, that really matters.

Be aware and adjust your price accordingly that the car probably needs some attention. Unless the seller can supply paper work the services are current or you can run the VIN through a Dodge dealer and get a list of services budget for various services that are due.

Tires should be in good condition but if not if the tires are worn unevenly budget for an alignment assuming wear is not severe enough to suspect the car's bent. In this case you don't want an alignment you want to walk away from the car.

Remember these things: Price is not fact only an opinion. And there is always another car. If you find something negative about this car don't feel you have to buy it. There is another car out there you'll like just as much if not more than this one and it won't have any negatives.
 

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Thanks for the replies much appreciated.

Sounds like 2015 and up would be a much better bet for me.

Perhaps I will hold off and continue to save for now.
Wise choice.

You save another year, you have more money and the 2015s will be a year older.
 
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I have a 2009 bought new manual with 70K miles no issues what so ever. Car drives today like when it was new.
 

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I have a 2009 bought new manual with 70K miles no issues what so ever. Car drives today like when it was new.
Just curious, have you ever checked your intake manifold bolts to confirm they are at proper torque? My 2015 only had 18K miles when I checked and it took 2.5 turns to get the bolts back to proper torque spec (i.e. they were loose).
 
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