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Discussion Starter #1
Wish I had put these on the day that I bought the SP. No telling how many times I've washed that nasty Brembo dust off the front wheels in the last 2,600 miles. Noticeably dirty after only 20 miles. Night and day difference. Very happy!
 

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WHat are the part numbers for those pads and where did you get them?

Can't stand the dust on mine either.


Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I changed only the front, as you know the rears don't get nearly as dusty. I might change the rears later, if I find that they get dirty before the fronts do.

The part number for the 6-pison Brembos is Z23-1405. I got mine from Amazon, but I found out later that some of the CT sponsors have them, too.

The calipers don't have to be removed. There are several YouTube videos showing how to do it, and one including how destroy the rocker panels with a floor jack. LOL.

The break-in procedure was odd for me to do (it calls for 5 rapid succession aggressive braking from 40 to 10mph, then 5 more from 35 to 5mph, then driving 5 minutes or more to cool them off) after years of reading new car owner's manuals instructing that no hard braking take place for the first few hundred miles. It worked, though!
 

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Thanks for the info
 

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Do you feel that the stopping power is the same or better? Or worse???
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It feels the same to me, on the street. I don't track it, though.
 

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Z23-1405 - Brembo 6-piston

Z23-1298 - Brembo 4-piston

Z23-1053 - Brembo rear (all)


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2015 SRT392 A8 in white pearl coat
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Just got my '15 SRT 392 with 16k miles on it. . Also just noticed the insane amount of black dust on my wheels. Been thinking about replacing my pads with something that doesn't produce so much dust. Noticing the surface of the rotors looks a little lumpy or "ridgie" if there is such a word. Is this typical of these 6 piston calipers and rotors? 16k seems a bit light for visible ridges and the general unevenness of the surface of the rotor. Your thoughts?

Not finding any online info about removing the rotors on these cars, as I'm getting ready to pull the rotors to have them turned. Anybody out there removed the rotors? Have 'em turned? Any issues?

I thought Scat Packs had 4 piston brakes. Did I miss something?

Two questions:
1. You guys use anything special to jack these cars up? Not finding any convenient place to do so underneath the car, at least not with my floor jack.
2. I've done a zillion brake jobs, but these are some odd looking disks. Any tricks to removing them?
Need a recommendation for buying some Z23 pads... where might I get them?

Gary
 

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I was too wondering if any tricks to jacking car up.
Look for that 'frame rail' under the car, and jack there.

And guys...don't be a dummy like me and just click on "SRT" at Rock Auto and order pads...the website is wrong and you will be disappointed if you think you are getting 6 piston pads and receive 4 piston pads instead. Check those part numbers listed earlier in this thread!
 

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Just got my '15 SRT 392 with 16k miles on it. . Also just noticed the insane amount of black dust on my wheels. Been thinking about replacing my pads with something that doesn't produce so much dust. Noticing the surface of the rotors looks a little lumpy or "ridgie" if there is such a word. Is this typical of these 6 piston calipers and rotors? 16k seems a bit light for visible ridges and the general unevenness of the surface of the rotor. Your thoughts?

Not finding any online info about removing the rotors on these cars, as I'm getting ready to pull the rotors to have them turned. Anybody out there removed the rotors? Have 'em turned? Any issues?

I thought Scat Packs had 4 piston brakes. Did I miss something?

Two questions:
1. You guys use anything special to jack these cars up? Not finding any convenient place to do so underneath the car, at least not with my floor jack.
2. I've done a zillion brake jobs, but these are some odd looking disks. Any tricks to removing them?
Need a recommendation for buying some Z23 pads... where might I get them?

Gary
Don't turn those rotors. U don't want to have to replace them at about $1k a piece.

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Don't turn those rotors. U don't want to have to replace them at about $1k a piece.

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What??? Why would you say this? I get that they are expensive, but I've never heard advice like this in my life. I'm not trying to be a know-it-all, but if you're going to post something like this, it seems like an explanation might be in order. Is turning SRT rotors some kind of disaster?

Gary
 

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It was for my dealership. They replaced mine after ruining them trying to turn them. The slots would catch the tool and cause chatter in the surface. Besides when you make the disk material thinner it won't dissipate heat as well. It will get hotter. Do what you want but those rotors are very well engineered to do what they do.

Now I'm not saying that a shop that deals with road racing cars may not be able to lightly skim the surface to take out some imperfections but I have never dealt with such a shop so I don't know if that's a possibility. If u take it to brakex or local shop they will likely ruin them.

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It was for my dealership. They replaced mine after ruining them trying to turn them. The slots would catch the tool and cause chatter in the surface. Besides when you make the disk material thinner it won't dissipate heat as well. It will get hotter. Do what you want but those rotors are very well engineered to do what they do.

Now I'm not saying that a shop that deals with road racing cars may not be able to lightly skim the surface to take out some imperfections but I have never dealt with such a shop so I don't know if that's a possibility. If u take it to brakex or local shop they will likely ruin them.

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First off, I appreciate the time you've taken to explain the advice you've given. Based on your personal experience, I can see why you'd be concerned.
Since I'm new here, and new to the world of Challengers, I will be seeking a lot of advice on this forum, and am thankful for all of it.
But I would like to provide a little background here. I've been wrenching on cars for something like 45 years and was a machinist for many of those years. I know a few things about metals, machining, and brakes in general. Again, your advice is appreciated.

The issue you had with the dealership and their brake machine is most likely due to a worn machine, worn cutters, or a rookie trying to do the job. I would guess that the machinist replaced the cutters as soon as he saw the chattering. Dull cutters certainly would have been my first suspicion. He should have heard this happening long before he saw it. This should've been obvious to even a rookie, and no doubt he knew this as he was cutting them. But since he destroyed your rotors, I'm guessing that he messed them up BAD. So let me guess, he recut them several times in an attempt to get them right, and took off too much.

Concerning fears of getting rotors turned, it's all about who does it and on what machine. Slots and cross drilled holes are nothing new. They don't cause chattering on a tight machine with sharp cutters, but they dead sure WILL on a marginal machine or one with dull cutters. For the experienced brake man with a good machine, there's no need to take off extra material when turning a disk, so the amount lost in turning is very minimal compared to the amount worn off by the pads themselves. This doesn't concern me.

Brakes overheating? That's typically a result of them being undersize. That won't be happening here as they're fairly new.

For others reading this, if you want to learn something about braking myths and why brakes fail, check out some online sources: for example this one from Stoptech: (CLICKY HERE)

Again, thanks for the input. But this boy has HAD IT with brake dust. FWIW, I drive like gramma most of the time. It's likely that I'll rarely ever use these brakes to anywhere near their full potential. For me, some lower performance and lower dust pads will work fine. I just wanted to find out WHERE I might order them.

Gary
 

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Sounds like u know what going on then. I've worked in machining for over 20 myself. I don't disagree that it can be done right but I don't have the machinery to do it myself and I wouldn't trust anyone else to do it for me. The mechanic that ruined my rotors had 25 years as a mechanic according to the service writer.

Anyhow I can definitely agree on the brake dust, it sucks! Here is a little info on the two piece rotors for ya. https://www.zeckhausen.com/catalog

Lots of good info on that site.

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Sounds like u know what going on then. I've worked in machining for over 20 myself. I don't disagree that it can be done right but I don't have the machinery to do it myself and I wouldn't trust anyone else to do it for me. The mechanic that ruined my rotors had 25 years as a mechanic according to the service writer.

Anyhow I can definitely agree on the brake dust, it sucks! Here is a little info on the two piece rotors for ya. https://www.zeckhausen.com/catalog

Lots of good info on that site.

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I had the privilege of working with a number of fellas through the years that had mega years of experience. Sad to say, about half of them did such poor work that I got to enjoy mucho hours of overtime fixing their butcher work. Their incompetence became my opportunity: guess I can't complain. But I dead sure wouldn't want one of them touching my rotors. Ha...I hope these guys never decide to become doctors :| That said, "experience" is no substitute for integrity and competence. Big Dodge, I'm not telling you something you don't know. But I appreciate your feedback sir.
 
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