Does anyone know a tutorial on how to install the Overkill ported Lower intake? Mine is arriving by tomorrow or day after and want to know the procedure before I remove the old manifold.
Gotcha, thanks for the heads up, I might aswell get my spark plugs upgraded to better ones while I'm working at it, I was looking at the NGK iridium IX ones, would they work? Do they need regaping for our cars? Or which other spark plus are good?Not too bad, just be patient with those red lock tabs for the fuel injectors. They can be a pain if they're dirty or stuck.
It's certainly a good time to check the plugs, while you have the intake off. Not sure how many miles you have but you can decide to replace them. Sorry I couldn't tell you which ones are better or worse. I haven't tested different ones. I usually just use the Mopar replacement plugs, they come gapped but it's always good to measure just in case.Gotcha, thanks for the heads up, I might aswell get my spark plugs upgraded to better ones while I'm working at it, I was looking at the NGK iridium IX ones, would they work? Do they need regaping for our cars? Or which other spark plus are good?
Its done around 7,400 miles now, the spark plugs were changed at 5,965 miles but thought it would be a good idea to get it checked or upgraded.It's certainly a good time to check the plugs, while you have the intake off. Not sure how many miles you have but you can decide to replace them. Sorry I couldn't tell you which ones are better or worse. I haven't tested different ones. I usually just use the Mopar replacement plugs, they come gapped but it's always good to measure just in case.
Thanks man!It would depend on what shape they are in. I know it's harder getting parts there but I would always get new gaskets. An air leak on an air metering component could play hell on all kinds of performance issues.
Info from The Chilton Library
chilton service manuals new challenger
Well I didn't torque it that way you attached but I just made sure all the bolts are tightened up good on the lower intake, not too tight just nice and tight. Didn't go in that sequence either but went around after tightening them from one side to the other to make sure it's snug and tight. Didn't have the socket needed for the star shaped bolts for lower intake to torque it. I have a torque wrench but I was unsure of the foot / pounds unit to use on the bolts as the torque info guy gave is in a different unit to foot/pounds.Yes you should replace those intake gaskets while you're at it. The uppers and the lowers. I should have mentioned that earlier. Wipe what oil you can out of the grooves too.
For the red injector tabs, you can use a flat blade screwdriver, a 90 degree pick or some flat trim/upholstery tool. Put it under the top of the red tab, put your other hand on the end of the tool and pull straight up. That's how I usually do it, just be patient.
The intake manifold bolts are all 8 mm if I remember correctly. There is a torque sequence too. I'll try to attach it. I see A Guy gave you the torque specs. I should add that you should go around to each one again after.
This didn't tell me how to pull out the tabs or show how to do it, I didn't even pull the tabs out after a few tries with a flat head and some Philip flat head drivers as I didn't want to break them so I just took out the fuel rail with the Injectors attached with all the wiring removed too that was attached to the injector to spark plugs. Then just moved the fuel rails out of the way and then started loosening the lower intake bolts. Spilled some fuel removing the fuel rails with the injectors still attached as one of them came out of its holder but all good, there was no issue.Can you access this link? You can get all this info from the Chilton library I linked to
https://www.roswell-nm.gov/1112/Chilton-Auto-Repair-Library Password: cactus
Put your car info in the Vehicle Selector> Select> Repair> Engine Mechanical> 3.6L Engine> Intake Manifold> Choose Installation or Removal> Lower or Upper
You can navigate around those choices, see if they have what you need
I would say talk to your aftermarket tuner. That's something I don't know enough about to say. Hopefully someone more knowledgeable on the subject can chime in.Guys, is there anything i need to fine tune in my 91 tune now that i have the ported intake installed, such as maybe the fuel % ?
Let me know, also can I try the 93 tune? Will it hurt or not?
I loaded up the 93 tune today and there was no issues with anything whatsoever, did some logging too, checked the knocks, there was no knocks at WOT or even shifting from 1-4 using the stick. So the question is should I stick with 93 tune or go back to 91, will i encounter any problems sticking with 93 tune with 95 octane here?The 93 tune will require actual 93 octane which you don't have available. It won't help, it would hurt. Stick with the tune unless you plan to somehow raise the octane to 93 each and every time
If you are using a canned tune, you may have no issues with the ported intake, but if it's possible to take advantage of it, you'd likely need to log and get a custom tune. Since you can do email tunes, your location isn't as much of a hindrance. Make sure your tuner knows your location and average temp along with all the other parameters they will want from you. You may not get a huge bump, but your tune will now be individual to your car, and that would be better than the canned tunes. I only know what I have learned at Challengertalk, so post in the tune sub section for specific help.