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Hi! I want to lower my RT 2013 6 speed and i heard i need to change the rear shocks. Is ther any kits including everything i need around $300? I have no clue whats good or whats not. Please help me out :)
 

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My recommendation is Eibach their Pro Line lowering spring 1.4" front / 1.7" rear drop. They're firm but not harsh like some other brands can be pretty aggressive on spring rate / ride quality.

Look under your car, especially there rear. If you have black body shocks and there's a white label that says Sachs - odds are you may have Nivomats and those have to be changed out to get the car lowered.

If you have yellow shock body then you have Bilsteins (Super Track Pack option). Or they can be black body and have a silver band with yellow / blue on the lower body (that's OEM packaging.

while the springs are < $300, you're going to need shocks, unless you have Bilsteins already.

The standard R/T spec shocks are soft valving (Sachs) and they won't match up well with firmer springs - you end up with a lot of suspension motion since the soft shock rate doesn't match up with the firmer spring and less travel due to the lowering effect.

Your front suspension requires removal of the shock/ strut unit to change the spring. You don't want to try and cut corners by not changing the shock and then taking it all apart to do it over again - especially if you're paying for the installation to be done.

Bilstein shocks are ~ $100 per corner and they have a long service life and good ride quality. Its the OEM shock on Scat Pack models - a different Bilstein model (ADS) is used on SRT models as well.

I've attached a comparison picture of the rear shocks - the fatter body shock is a Nivomat compared to the standard Sachs that automatics get
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Can you tell what shocks i have just from this pic:?

I didnt fully understand your answer. Do i need to change the front shocks too?

Would this be a good combo?
summitracing.com/int/parts/eib-2895-140/overview/model/challenger
summitracing.com/int/parts/bsn-24-216951/overview/make/dodge/model/challenger
 

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https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...2013/make/dodge/model/challenger/submodel/r-t

The 28111.140 are what I found for your year / application

You did find the correct Bilstein shock - your OEM ones look like Nivomats

A I mentioned, I'd recommend the front shocks to change out as well - there's a bit of labor involved as the entire strut / spring unit has to be removed, compressed. The OEM shocks will have soft valving which won't match up that well with the new springs.

Rear would be firm, front might more float with stock shocks. (won't be happy with that). Then you'd have to take the front apart all over again to change the shock if you went that route.
 

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Hal, I have to disagree on how to identify the Nivomats. I really think part number or having the dealer check based on VIN is the best way. The fat shock body with thin welded rod is not exclusive to the Nivomats. Here’s a photo of my 17 R/T automatic’s rear shocks, which I confirmed are not Nivomats, even though they match your description.
 

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I thought Nivomats were phased out after 2010, 2011 ... somewhere in there?


Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk
 

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I thought Nivomats were phased out after 2010, 2011 ... somewhere in there?


Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk
That I’m not sure of, but Eibach and all the car websites wanted to know if I had load leveling shocks on my 2017 when I was shopping for my Proline springs.
 

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either way - I wouldn't recommend putting a firmer lowering spring with the OEM R/T spec Sachs shocks - a firmer shock is needed (rebound and compression rates) to match up with the spring characteristics.

Otherwise you hit a bump and the shock will bottom out and then the (new) spring expands more quickly with a soft shock...you'll get a lot of suspension motion that wouldn't be dampened effectively.

It would be like driving a hi-po car with worn out shocks - not very well controlled suspension.
 

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Hal, I have to disagree on how to identify the Nivomats. I really think part number or having the dealer check based on VIN is the best way. The fat shock body with thin welded rod is not exclusive to the Nivomats. Here’s a photo of my 17 R/T automatic’s rear shocks, which I confirmed are not Nivomats, even though they match your description.
Here's the Nivomat on my former '09 R/T - note how big the body is - how close to the rear spring the shock is.
 

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2019 Dodge Challenger 1320, high octane red, Race Stars and Mickey Thompson et rs, hurst shifter.
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Hi! I want to lower my RT 2013 6 speed and i heard i need to change the rear shocks. Is ther any kits including everything i need around $300? I have no clue whats good or whats not. Please help me out <img src="http://www.challengertalk.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Smile" class="inlineimg" />
I did it on my 2014 rt a 6 speed and it sat and rode awesome. Used factory shocks
 

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I've lowered about a dozen of these cars, never had to change shocks and none of the owners complained about ride or shock dampning afterwards. However.... Your car is creeping up on 5 years old with probably 40-80k miles on it. Now is the time to replace the shocks, the Bilsteins will perform quite well.
 
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