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Discussion Starter #1
I've tried searching, and cannot seem to find any pertinent information :(

I recently purchased my 17 RT+ STP 6MT. Already snagged a set of SRT8 Alcoas, and would like to take another inch of wheel gap out of the equation.

From my understanding, being a STP car, I'm already 1/2" lower. Do I need to factor that when looking at lowering springs for 15+ cars? I.E. would that mean that springs advertised to lower 1.5" will lower me a total of 1"?

What effect, if any, does a lowering spring have on the electronic dampening?

Does anyone know the OEM spring rate for a STP car? I'd hate to buy springs and find out they're mushier than OEM.

I'd like to maintain near factory handling and ride with an inch of gap removed, if we're wishing in one hand and shitting in the other.

PS--I didn't spray paint the wheels, I got them this way. They're being powder coated to a translucent champagne finish over brilliant silver.

IMG_7206.JPG


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The lowering springs will be a higher spring rate than the OEM springs are. Probably get the lowering such as a SRT would have.
-one example are the Mopar Stage I springs - they're firmer yet over the OEM STP springs.

The 1.5" quote is likely for the standard R/T suspension, which has a larger tire / fender gag over the STP option.

Your model has standard (conventional) shocks.

The only models with active suspension are the SRT models with the 3-mode Bilsteins.

You definitely won't have a softer spring rate. Good call on un-doing the black wheel treatment.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I guess I use the term "active suspension" loosely. The STP has the "sport" suspension mode, which definitely *feels* stiffer. Is it not an active dampening? Is this a placebo affect?

The H&R's seem like they'd be the perfect height choice, but I worry that they'll put the OEM shocks an inch already into their compression stroke, and handling will suffer. I've built many a lowered import in the past, and it seems like without a shorter bodied shock, or even a coilover, handling suffers tremendously.

I've been reading recently about replacing the bushings in nearly the entire rear of the car to get rid of the horrendous wheel-hop issue. Any truth to this?

Here's my other toy, that's unfortunately faster than the Challenger...for now. 07 G35. IMG_6538.JPG


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I guess I use the term "active suspension" loosely. The STP has the "sport" suspension mode, which definitely *feels* stiffer. Is it not an active dampening? Is this a placebo affect?

The H&R's seem like they'd be the perfect height choice, but I worry that they'll put the OEM shocks an inch already into their compression stroke, and handling will suffer. I've built many a lowered import in the past, and it seems like without a shorter bodied shock, or even a coilover, handling suffers tremendously.

I've been reading recently about replacing the bushings in nearly the entire rear of the car to get rid of the horrendous wheel-hop issue. Any truth to this?

Here's my other toy, that's unfortunately faster than the Challenger...for now. 07 G35. View attachment 852042


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Your stock Bilsteins (yellow body) will work fine with lowering springs.

The Sport mode with your M6 alters the engine throttle response and (default) puts steering into Sport (firmest feel) and whatever ESP settings you set up as default for Sport mode operation.

No changes to suspension [only SRT models have the ADS Bilstein shocks]. You have a conventional spring and shock / strut suspension.
 
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Discussion Starter #5
Your stock Bilsteins (yellow body) will work fine with lowering springs.



The Sport mode with your M6 alters the engine throttle response and (default) puts steering into Sport (firmest feel) and whatever ESP settings you set up as default for Sport mode operation.



No changes to suspension [only SRT models have the ADS Bilstein shocks]. You have a conventional spring and shock / strut suspension.


Thanks Hal!


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I installed the KW adjustable springs on my SRT and am real happy with over 10K mi. on them. Lowered about an inch and is perfect for me. They settled about another 1/4" in time. That seems to be the limit before you start having camber issues too.
 

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I installed the KW adjustable springs on my SRT and am real happy with over 10K mi. on them. Lowered about an inch and is perfect for me. They settled about another 1/4" in time. That seems to be the limit before you start having camber issues too.


Holy cow Your car is BEAUTIFUL!

I can't seem to find the KW's for an RT. Am I missing something? All I can find is SRT and Hellcat applications. I feel silly even asking that.


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I've tried searching, and cannot seem to find any pertinent information :(

I recently purchased my 17 RT+ STP 6MT. Already snagged a set of SRT8 Alcoas, and would like to take another inch of wheel gap out of the equation.

From my understanding, being a STP car, I'm already 1/2" lower. Do I need to factor that when looking at lowering springs for 15+ cars? I.E. would that mean that springs advertised to lower 1.5" will lower me a total of 1"?

What effect, if any, does a lowering spring have on the electronic dampening?

Does anyone know the OEM spring rate for a STP car? I'd hate to buy springs and find out they're mushier than OEM.

I'd like to maintain near factory handling and ride with an inch of gap removed, if we're wishing in one hand and shitting in the other.

PS--I didn't spray paint the wheels, I got them this way. They're being powder coated to a translucent champagne finish over brilliant silver.

View attachment 852018


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I've had the Hotchkis springs on my car since it was basically new. I've never had a problem with them and they will do what you want. They will drop it a little lower than the Mopar Stage 1 springs.
 
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Discussion Starter #9
I've had the Hotchkis springs on my car since it was basically new. I've never had a problem with them and they will do what you want. They will drop it a little lower than the Mopar Stage 1 springs.


Is yours an STP? That's the trouble I'm having. I'm already lowered 1/2" from a standard RT, and I want ANOTHER inch.


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Is yours an STP? That's the trouble I'm having. I'm already lowered 1/2" from a standard RT, and I want ANOTHER inch.


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The Scat Pack has the SRT Core suspension which should be as low or lower than the STP suspension. I had a 2014 R/T with STP and my Scat Pack seemed slightly lower stock.

Hotchkis 19120 should get you about 1" up front and 1.25" in the rear.
 
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Hell yeah! How was handling affected? I love how neutral the car feels throwing it into a turn. This car REALLY surprises me how well it handles considering it's size


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Hell yeah! How was handling affected? I love how neutral the car feels throwing it into a turn. This car REALLY surprises me how well it handles considering it's size


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The Hotchkis springs are stiffer, but the ride is still good. I do have to be careful entering parking lots or with certain dips in the road. I've scrubbed my front splitter up a little. I also have long tubes and I've rubbed a cat a couple of times.

However, 99% of the time it's fine and I would absolutely go with them again.

One of the best improvements I made was some new front sway bar end links. I went with Speedlogix links (non-adjustable); however it appears they no longer carry these and only carry the adjustable links.

I'm not big on going fast in the twisties, so I mainly lowered for looks. My car does handle well though and has virtually no body roll in corners.
 
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The Hotchkis springs are stiffer, but the ride is still good. I do have to be careful entering parking lots or with certain dips in the road. I've scrubbed my front splitter up a little. I also have long tubes and I've rubbed a cat a couple of times.



However, 99% of the time it's fine and I would absolutely go with them again.



One of the best improvements I made was some new front sway bar end links. I went with Speedlogix links (non-adjustable); however it appears they no longer carry these and only carry the adjustable links.



I'm not big on going fast in the twisties, so I mainly lowered for looks. My car does handle well though and has virtually no body roll in corners.

I seriously appreciate the guidance!

Been looking at links, too! I was more intensively studying the rears than the fronts, though, to try to eliminate the damn wheel hop! Any input?


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I seriously appreciate the guidance!

Been looking at links, too! I was more intensively studying the rears than the fronts, though, to try to eliminate the damn wheel hop! Any input?


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Hehe... been there and done that as well. I have the Spohn rear sway bar end links and trailing arms and I think they help the car hookup at the track. Not a major improvement, but I believe they do help to some degree.

With my car having the A8, wheel hop wasn't terrible to begin with. At the track, the best way to prevent it is with the correct drag radial / slick. If the car hooks, you won't have hop.

With my mods on the 6.4L, I little trouble overpowering the rear 275's, so hop isn't a problem on the street.

My 2014 RT was a 6 speed and it had BAD hop at the track on street tires.
 

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Hehe... been there and done that as well. I have the Spohn rear sway bar end links and trailing arms and I think they help the car hookup at the track. Not a major improvement, but I believe they do help to some degree.



With my car having the A8, wheel hop wasn't terrible to begin with. At the track, the best way to prevent it is with the correct drag radial / slick. If the car hooks, you won't have hop.



With my mods on the 6.4L, I little trouble overpowering the rear 275's, so hop isn't a problem on the street.



My 2014 RT was a 6 speed and it had BAD hop at the track on street tires.


I managed to murder a set of 245's in 3k miles learning how to launch this car and avoid the wheel hop. Seems like a lower RPM launch with a small amount of intentional wheel spin works better than trying to get it to dead hook. Launch control is fun

I seriously appreciate all of this help. I'm looking at ordering the Hotchkis right now!


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Holy cow Your car is BEAUTIFUL!

I can't seem to find the KW's for an RT. Am I missing something? All I can find is SRT and Hellcat applications. I feel silly even asking that.


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Sorry man, they may be just for the SRT. I didn't look into it that far. If interested, you may want to contact KW to see what the skinny is. Anyway, that's pretty much the stance with lowering an inch. Thanks for the compliment!
 

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Discussion Starter #19


I was looking more for the KW adjustable sleeves, not necessarily the entire coilover assembly. What makes KW think these coilovers are worth $2400? I'd love to see real world results from them, though. Always hard to justify that kind of expense when you can't try it before you buy it


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Discussion Starter #20
Or non adjustable.

H&R Lowering Springs 09-16 Challenger R/T, SRT, Hellcat; 15-16 Charger SRT, Hellcat

I would imagine all aftermarket springs are progressive but Eibach springs are advertised as a progressive spring meaning a soft(ish) ride which gets stiffer as they are compressed, like in cornering or braking improving handling AND appearance.


I actually prefer a linear spring. They tend to be more predictable. I drive the absolute hell out of my car; she's abused and slid around daily.


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