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Discussion Starter #1
I'm installing a Maggie on my 2017 5.7. The instructions call for me to use #6 fuse for my intercooler pump. The newer models have a different fuse box, so #6 won't work. I was curious what fuse some of you other guys have used instead.
 

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On the older cars under the fuse panel there was a fuse labels diesel pcm. It is a switch fuse. I used that on mine. Not sure if that is there in the newer cars it not


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2015 RT 5.7 M6
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Did you run the 25 amp fuse mid wire?
No I used a fuse tap (had to buy it as kit came with the wrong tap - 1st image below) and placed the 25 amp fuse on the bottom and installed a 5 amp fuse (actually a smaller amperage would do) on the top. As you can see in the image in my previous post I had to modify the tap to fit in the fuse box. I then placed the fuse tap into fuse location 35. The 2015s (I believe the 2016s are the same not sure about 2017) don't have a diesel fuse. BTW...make sure you have the right size snout on the maggie (see attached image - should be like the snout on the top). The snout should measure 9 7/8" from front of pulley to blower mating surface. The PCV tap should also be bent and not straight. Also, make sure you have a 3.2 (8 psi) and not 3.4 (6 psi). And lastly, make sure they gave you a short IAC sensor...the long ones in the 2015+ won't work.

Oh and use a 99 5/8" belt size with the 3.2 pulley. My kit came with a 100 5/8" and was slipping all the time. I also bought a dayco HD tensioner but us1champ recommends this one in his post which I plan to run if my belt continues to chirp (will chirp when I down shift and hit WOT).
http://www.challengertalk.com/forums/7533817-post2.html



 

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Discussion Starter #7
No I used a fuse tap (had to buy it as kit came with the wrong tap - 1st image below) and placed the 25 amp fuse on the bottom and installed a 5 amp fuse (actually a smaller amperage would do) on the top. As you can see in the image in my previous post I had to modify the tap to fit in the fuse box. I then placed the fuse tap into fuse location 35. The 2015s (I believe the 2016s are the same not sure about 2017) don't have a diesel fuse. BTW...make sure you have the right size snout on the maggie (see attached image - should be like the snout on the top). The snout should measure 9 7/8" from front of pulley to blower mating surface. The PCV tap should also be bent and not straight. Also, make sure you have a 3.2 (8 psi) and not 3.4 (6 psi). And lastly, make sure they gave you a short IAC sensor...the long ones in the 2015+ won't work.

Oh and use a 99 5/8" belt size with the 3.2 pulley. My kit came with a 100 5/8" and was slipping all the time. I also bought a dayco HD tensioner but us1champ recommends this one in his post which I plan to run if my belt continues to chirp (will chirp when I down shift and hit WOT).
http://www.challengertalk.com/forums/7533817-post2.html



Good information there. The blower checks out ok, as well as the pulley. I'll have to play the belt by ear. So far the only thing off is the fuse tap, lets hope that is it. Magnason did forget to send my diablo T1000. I have one already so I'm hoping they'll just give me a refund instead for it. I will have to wait for my tune to be emailed however. I'm tapping my crank next, gotta way for a rental store to open to get at 90 degree drill. We'll see how it all goes!
 

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Good information there. The blower checks out ok, as well as the pulley. I'll have to play the belt by ear. So far the only thing off is the fuse tap, lets hope that is it. Magnason did forget to send my diablo T1000. I have one already so I'm hoping they'll just give me a refund instead for it. I will have to wait for my tune to be emailed however. I'm tapping my crank next, gotta way for a rental store to open to get at 90 degree drill. We'll see how it all goes!
I just bought an air drill from harbor freight...plenty of room to drill. I had a 90 electric but the cord exited the back which was a problem. I taped a thin piece of balsa sheet (had it from my RC days) on the radiator to prevent bending any fins. Some use a 2x4 for leverage to push on the drill in but I just let the drill do the work. I had a 30 gallon compressor so I would drill for a minute...wait 5 minutes...but it drilled like butter.

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-8-eighth-inch-reversible-air-angle-drill-67474.html

When you mount the blower, be sure to spray silicon on the head so you can wiggle blower with ease. When it seats (make absolutely sure it does) there should be about <1/4" play to move it around. One thing I hate about the kit is the heater core hose fitting are just glued in place. I have read some have used an NPT tap (loaded with grease to trap metal shavings) and used threaded barbs. I wish I had done this as well.

Oh, and I used a hole saw to drill into the plastic air deflector in the front clip (I will post a pic later) to make routing of the hoses a little easier.
 

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Did your kit come with a larger fuel pump? Mine came with an upgraded pump. If it did make sure you have less than 3/4 of a tank (I think manual says 5/8th) and that the car is outside when you do it (keep all windows open).

 

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Discussion Starter #10
Did your kit come with a larger fuel pump? Mine came with an upgraded pump. If it did make sure you have less than 3/4 of a tank (I think manual says 5/8th) and that the car is outside when you do it (keep all windows open).

Mine didn't come with it. I'll upgrade that and injectors in time. Right now I want to get it going and get the bugs worked out of it. Plus I'm a tad gunshy about too much power. My car is practically new, I'd hate to blow the bottom end out of a new motor.
 

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Mine didn't come with it. I'll upgrade that and injectors in time. Right now I want to get it going and get the bugs worked out of it. Plus I'm a tad gunshy about too much power. My car is practically new, I'd hate to blow the bottom end out of a new motor.
The injectors should be fine (the 6 and 8 PSI kits use the same injectors) but I have been told by Arrington the pump prevents the fuel system from leaning out at 4k and WOT. This is where a wide band...and a fuel pressure sensor come in handy.
 

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The worst thing you can do is put a supercharger or any other modifications on and not address the fuel system. Fuel is the life blood of the entire car. It don’t matter if you have fragile pistons ect. Most piston issues in cars are related to detention which is a by product of lean condition.... lack of fuel........


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The worst thing you can do is put a supercharger or any other modifications on and not address the fuel system. Fuel is the life blood of the entire car. It don’t matter if you have fragile pistons ect. Most piston issues in cars are related to detention which is a by product of lean condition.... lack of fuel........


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I hated detention, but detonation is even worse.
 

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Lol you know what I mean


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Discussion Starter #15
The worst thing you can do is put a supercharger or any other modifications on and not address the fuel system. Fuel is the life blood of the entire car. It don’t matter if you have fragile pistons ect. Most piston issues in cars are related to detention which is a by product of lean condition.... lack of fuel........


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Yeah, good advice, I'm checking into fuel pumps as soon as I get this thing pieced together.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
And lastly, make sure they gave you a short IAC sensor...
Drilling the crank was a pain, but only because I couldnt get a small enough electric drill. I don't have an air setup. But tried three different drills, two rentals then just bought one, until I finally just cut about an inch off the drill bit itself to make room. Got the fuse tap taken care of, but just found out they didnt send me a short IAT sensor (I think that's what you meant), so now my build is on hold until Magnuson decides they'll ok sending me one, as well as the Trinity they forgot on top of it. I'm curious if a local parts store or dealer has a sufficient short IAC sensor I can get locally.
 

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