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2016 Jazz Blue A8 Scat
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Discussion Starter #1
What mods can you do to a 392 to make more power and run quicker ET's?
 

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Is your warranty important? What year car? Manual or auto?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It’s more of a general question. Not for my car specifically.
What mods make more power and reduce ETs on the 392 cars?
 

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What would a converter do for a car with a stock cam?
Make it launch like a missle. But there are other things I would do first like a good drag radial and tune if warranty isn't a concern.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
MY plans definitely include better tires, a differential brace and possibly an upgraded drive shaft.

I’m doubtful of the 392 needing the torque converter early on with the A8. The car already has enough torque at the tires to generate over 1.3 Gs of acceleration in 1st gear. That seems like plenty, at least until it will dead hook and provide those 1.3 Gs on demand. A converter is difficult to change (I’m lazy) and will surely void the warranty on the transmission.

Forged pistons and rods also seem like a pretty drastic mod unless a person was planning on forced induction or a much higher rpm limit. The crank is already forged.

On a naturally aspirated engine, usually the changes that make a substantial difference are the cam, compression ratio and headers with a supporting tune to match. The cam moves the torque peak to a higher RPM generating more horsepower. Yes, warranty is definitely gone here too.

It seems odd that the 392 would not respond to these types of modifications well.

But the 392 IS tuned really well (aggressively) from the factory within the limits of warranty claims and the EPA. And by TUNED, I mean the hard parts (cam, compression, heads, etc) are matched well for good power.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yes, there is always n2o.

Although I keep reading that the limit on the 392 is pretty low. On “old school” engines near this size, a 125-150hp shot was recommended. The 392 seems limited to only 75hp?

Plus, gotta keep it filled and watch bottle pressure.
 

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Yes, there is always n2o.

Although I keep reading that the limit on the 392 is pretty low. On “old school” engines near this size, a 125-150hp shot was recommended. The 392 seems limited to only 75hp?

Plus, gotta keep it filled and watch bottle pressure.
I have always read 6psi boost (good for ~100 to 120 HP gain) on a 392 was the limit but I see folks running 8psi (probably water/meth) on stock pistons.

It would have been killer if the 392 came with forged piston/rods from the factory. >:)
 

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Keeping things cheap: As noted drag radials would be the first step. A good tune for race gas and a device to store it on so you only have to use it at the track.
 

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MY plans definitely include better tires, a differential brace and possibly an upgraded drive shaft.

I’m doubtful of the 392 needing the torque converter early on with the A8. The car already has enough torque at the tires to generate over 1.3 Gs of acceleration in 1st gear. That seems like plenty, at least until it will dead hook and provide those 1.3 Gs on demand. A converter is difficult to change (I’m lazy) and will surely void the warranty on the transmission.

Forged pistons and rods also seem like a pretty drastic mod unless a person was planning on forced induction or a much higher rpm limit. The crank is already forged.

On a naturally aspirated engine, usually the changes that make a substantial difference are the cam, compression ratio and headers with a supporting tune to match. The cam moves the torque peak to a higher RPM generating more horsepower. Yes, warranty is definitely gone here too.

It seems odd that the 392 would not respond to these types of modifications well.

But the 392 IS tuned really well (aggressively) from the factory within the limits of warranty claims and the EPA. And by TUNED, I mean the hard parts (cam, compression, heads, etc) are matched well for good power.
Don't assume the pistons are safe at any power level if you have true detonation. It would be hard to beat a tune and tires for bang for the buck.

I would recommend you look at HP Tuners. Absolutely superior to Diablo and you can learn to make tweaks to your car if you desire.

Completely disabling all engine TM in the tune will yield some gains and is safe for a car with near stock power levels.

If you want to go beyond that, then look at a cam and headers. The Modern Muscle NSR cam or the Comp 270 are good grinds. Having the auto, you would need to change out to Hellcat lifters.

With 10.9:1 compression, you are pretty much at the max for what pump gas will allow, so really nowhere to go there.

Forget any real shot of N20 with the factory pistons... maybe 50-75, but you better keep the timing dialed down.

Also, no need to replace the drive shaft at this point. You have the same rear axles and driveshaft as the Hellcat. A DSS shaft isn't much lighter and there is no gain to be had other than a few ounces gone from your wallet.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Thanks kennandjenn.

I’m following your progress with your own car. When I was shopping for my Scat Pack, you and cdahl383 were two that I looked at when deciding to go 6M or A8. With minimal mods, both of your cars have gone into the 11s. I have also found others, in the 11s with the 392 and A8. B. Mason and Lonnie Aspinwall on youtube have also run in the 11s.
 

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Best advice in this thread. :cheers:

Drag racing is about making power, but if you can't put it to the ground, it's just tire smoke.

The old saying goes: "Spinning ain't Winning"!
I am POSITIVE its been asked and answered, and I've looked at different threads, I am not seeing the forest for the trees I am sure, BUT, what are the best options out there for a good set of DR in regards to price, size (I want to maintain 20in wheels, maybe a 10.5?, and although of course will not be great in rain, but one I wouldn't have to swap out based on weather often)....would love to get your all's input! I just had a procharger installed in my '16 392 SRT, and traction is my biggest enemy right now.....than you in advance!!!
 

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I am POSITIVE its been asked and answered, and I've looked at different threads, I am not seeing the forest for the trees I am sure, BUT, what are the best options out there for a good set of DR in regards to price, size (I want to maintain 20in wheels, maybe a 10.5?, and although of course will not be great in rain, but one I wouldn't have to swap out based on weather often)....would love to get your all's input! I just had a procharger installed in my '16 392 SRT, and traction is my biggest enemy right now.....than you in advance!!!
Quite a few of the Hellcat Guys like the Mickey Thompson's or the Nitto's. The 305's would fit well on a 10.5" wheels too and give your Beast a more aggressive look and be more functional in helping to put down that power.

I've heard that the M/T's don't last very long and the Nitto NT555R's can still be driven in rain (not standing rain, but in the wet), as long as you're not acting silly.

I had a set of NT555's (before the NT555R's came out) on my old C5 and they hooked up good enough to get me consistent 1.5-16 short times and run 10.52 @ 130 mph and I heard that the NT555R's are even better.

They should help quite a bit with traction, especially on the street and occasionally the track.
 

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I am POSITIVE its been asked and answered, and I've looked at different threads, I am not seeing the forest for the trees I am sure, BUT, what are the best options out there for a good set of DR in regards to price, size (I want to maintain 20in wheels, maybe a 10.5?, and although of course will not be great in rain, but one I wouldn't have to swap out based on weather often)....would love to get your all's input! I just had a procharger installed in my '16 392 SRT, and traction is my biggest enemy right now.....than you in advance!!!
Quite a few of the Hellcat Guys like the Mickey Thompson's or the Nitto's. The 305's would fit well on a 10.5" wheels too and give your Beast a more aggressive look and be more functional in helping to put down that power.

I've heard that the M/T's don't last very long and the Nitto NT555R's can still be driven in rain (not standing rain, but in the wet), as long as you're not acting silly.

I had a set of NT555's (before the NT555R's came out) on my old C5 and they hooked up good enough to get me consistent 1.5-16 short times and run 10.52 @ 130 mph and I heard that the NT555R's are even better.

They should help quite a bit with traction, especially on the street and occasionally the track.
Sweet, thank you for the info! Are there any positives or negatives reference a 315 versus a 305? Would a 315 with 25mm offset fit? My car isn’t lowered at all. And will this fix the wheel-hop issue?
 
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