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Discussion Starter #1
Dear all I just had to put this down on record spent 10hrs stripping down my much loved 392 took out factory pistons to fit forged piston and rods, all went well! ...........until..... we started to put together the new piston and rings (Drop in type Mahle and Manley rods) pistons went well checked, out ring gap as per Mahle spec, trimmed to size, 1" down from bores correct gap!, THEN started to unpack my new Manley Rods!!! the cap bolts were torqued on !!!!.. tight as tight! These ARP bolts are stress related, I can`t use these bolts, to our disbelief they would not undo the whole God dam set, we managed to release the bolts from 7 rods, but as I`ve said I can`t use them, really pissed Off!!! complete wasted day let alone the shock!. this is not the end yet!.... one of the new Rods the ARP cap bolt is totally seized in it won`t come out, and the other started to come but that also jammed, totally gutted!. I have left my urgent concern to Arrington, and I am fully aware that they did not make them! but have no choice and I`m sure they can truly help me .
What now does worry me are these rods all matched??? can Manley supply another complete rod to match my set
These Cap bolts should be left out so installing them can be done correctly and then torqued up to spec
absolutely gutted today,,, I have now to wait and hopefully get my replacement with a set of new cap bolts
and to make things worse I live in the UK (hope the post is quick?)
 

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My set of Molnar rods and another set of Scat rods were all torqued to spec. It's the safest way to transport them. It's a bummer the one rod wouldn't come apart for you though. If you doing all the measurements those rod bolts will get torqued several times during the process.

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you for the reply IowaMeg, strange that they torque up before shipping out just code the cap ends to match the rods
appreciate any other help as to why
 

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I would imagine that when they size the big end of the rod, it would have to be torqued up so the bore is concentric when assembled in the engine.

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for that info, it seems right what you say It would of a great help if Manley put that statement about torque the caps in the
factory instructions sheet then we know what to do
 

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yup, mine were torqued to spec in the molnar rods. I removed the bolts by putting the conrods in a vice wrapped in rubber.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks SRT Andy, I am waiting to contact Arrington`s today (my gmt time about 2pm) to explain that the rod bolt jammed up!
 

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Bummer, sounds like the threads are dry ...

I personally have never bought a set of quality rods that were not torqued to spec upon arrival, this is common ... They torque them to final hone the size and leave them torqued to maintain that bore.

Rods should be stored torqued.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~
 
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Discussion Starter #9
Thank you Festus Hagen ,
now I understand wish they had told me this ! question to ask, I have put the pistons on the last seven ready to put them , but due to the hassle of number 8 can I still leave the caps off,? and then when hopefully the replacement rod comes I can fit them all together it will be about a week or two, is this ok to leave them without the caps on or do I have to put them back to torque ? hopefully not!
 

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Thank you Festus Hagen ,
now I understand wish they had told me this ! question to ask, I have put the pistons on the last seven ready to put them , but due to the hassle of number 8 can I still leave the caps off,? and then when hopefully the replacement rod comes I can fit them all together it will be about a week or two, is this ok to leave them without the caps on or do I have to put them back to torque ? hopefully not!
Shouldn't have to retorque them while waiting for #8. How are you checking clearances? Plastigage or bore gauges?

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Discussion Starter #11
what is best to use?
the car has done 9600 miles bores are good and the rod shells that came from the factory stock are very good crank has no signs of wear at all I am going to check out the bores with a dial gauge and also check the crank journals, thank you
 

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Personally I would use new coated rod bearings and not run used bearings from a different rod. If you are using a dial bore gauge, you will end up torquing the rods to check the bore size with bearing shells installed.

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Thank you Festus Hagen ,
now I understand wish they had told me this ! question to ask, I have put the pistons on the last seven ready to put them , but due to the hassle of number 8 can I still leave the caps off,? and then when hopefully the replacement rod comes I can fit them all together it will be about a week or two, is this ok to leave them without the caps on or do I have to put them back to torque ? hopefully not!
They'll be fine, if you can keep the temp fairly consistent that is a plus.

what is best to use?
the car has done 9600 miles bores are good and the rod shells that came from the factory stock are very good crank has no signs of wear at all I am going to check out the bores with a dial gauge and also check the crank journals, thank you
Personally, I use em all ... mic's (crank), bore gauges (rod) then when I assemble I use plastigage ... Why, because I'm that anal and I prefer comfort over time spent. I ain't in no hurry until the flag drops!

[edit] ooPs, you are ... :)
I also highly recommend new bearings, you will be really upset if one let go ... the cost will way exceed the value of a set of good bearings.

And because I'm new here and have NO CLUE as to what you know, I'll pass on my biggest peeves I see folks do ...
KEEP YOUR GRIMY MITS OFF THE BEARINGS! Wear powder free gloves, the oils and acids in your skin will etch them.

Ensure the saddles and bearing backsides are clean/oil free with lint free's, a single dog hair under a bearing will cause it to fail, grease or oil can assist a spin.
Watch for sharp edges snagging lint ...

Cleanliness is key for longevity.

Apply white lithium liberally (or preferred assy lube) after the bearings are in the saddles ...

I could go on all day but those are my biggest peeves ...

-Enjoy
fh : )_~
 
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Discussion Starter #15
Festus Hagen Really appreciate that, new bearings are been fitted I would never use old bearings ain`t worth it and they will be clean
and check and checked and assemble lube is being used
 

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Dear all I just had to put this down on record spent 10hrs stripping down my much loved 392 took out factory pistons to fit forged piston and rods, all went well! ...........until..... we started to put together the new piston and rings (Drop in type Mahle and Manley rods) pistons went well checked, out ring gap as per Mahle spec, trimmed to size, 1" down from bores correct gap!, THEN started to unpack my new Manley Rods!!! the cap bolts were torqued on !!!!.. tight as tight! These ARP bolts are stress related, I can`t use these bolts, to our disbelief they would not undo the whole God dam set, we managed to release the bolts from 7 rods, but as I`ve said I can`t use them, really pissed Off!!! complete wasted day let alone the shock!. this is not the end yet!.... one of the new Rods the ARP cap bolt is totally seized in it won`t come out, and the other started to come but that also jammed, totally gutted!. I have left my urgent concern to Arrington, and I am fully aware that they did not make them! but have no choice and I`m sure they can truly help me .
What now does worry me are these rods all matched??? can Manley supply another complete rod to match my set
These Cap bolts should be left out so installing them can be done correctly and then torqued up to spec
absolutely gutted today,,, I have now to wait and hopefully get my replacement with a set of new cap bolts
and to make things worse I live in the UK (hope the post is quick?)

I might be confusing things but i dont think ARP sells torque to yield bolts (one time use) that is a factory thing.
 
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