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Guys, I'm new to the forum and also new to owning a Challenger. I LOVE the car. It is a 2011 R/T 6-speed. My issue is when I'm in a gear, usually seems to be the even gears but mostly 1st, and I push the clutch pedal down, I have to literally FORCE the shifter out of gear. Another symptom is if I let off the brake with the clutch depressed (only when experiencing it being stuck in gear) the car starts to roll as in being under power. It's slow, but it's enough to bump someone in traffic. I have not even owned the car for 3 weeks and have had it into the shop once already to look at this issue. They called Chrysler who says it isn't an issue. Help!
 

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The rep may not have understood the issue as it is a problem. I have the same issue, but most (from what I understand) are fixed with a re-greasing of the pilot bearing. I actually still have this issue on occasion. The problem is the clutch disc still has contact with the flywheel. If you can show that the car is still moving on a slight incline (or even steep incline), that will convince them it's a problem. If not, find a new repair shop.

Other problem you may experience is it being hard to shift into gears (especially second) on hard acceleration (e.g. drag strip, merging with traffic).
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the response. Multiple people from the garage (dealership) even drove it and experienced the issue. I do also experience the hard shifting issue you mentioned. Can I damage something driving it like this?
 

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The only thing I can see ever happening is if for some odd reason you can't get it out of gear when it's happening is eventual clutch disc burning out or glazing. I have 68k miles on mine (plus four trips into the dealerships to attempt to fix it) and I've not had to replace the clutch or experience any other issues other than those I noted above. Clutch is still pulling strong and engaging without slippage. One of these days I'll take some time (and buy a transmission jack) and open it up and take a look myself.

There's a few web video demonstrations of others opening their TR-6060s (other brand cars like the Corvette) and finding cost cutting parts (plastic shift fork pads for instance) and they replaced them with either the upgraded carbon version or something else was replaced with a brass version. I plan on doing some of this during my teardown, but that may be a year or so off (still doing a lot of house and yard redesign/rework).

edit: I found one of the Corvette teardown procedures:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-...manual-transmission-teardown-and-rebuild.html

Yes, I know they may have some things slightly different between the two, but the basics are there.
 

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Guys, I'm new to the forum and also new to owning a Challenger. I LOVE the car. It is a 2011 R/T 6-speed. My issue is when I'm in a gear, usually seems to be the even gears but mostly 1st, and I push the clutch pedal down, I have to literally FORCE the shifter out of gear. Another symptom is if I let off the brake with the clutch depressed (only when experiencing it being stuck in gear) the car starts to roll as in being under power. It's slow, but it's enough to bump someone in traffic. I have not even owned the car for 3 weeks and have had it into the shop once already to look at this issue. They called Chrysler who says it isn't an issue. Help!
Hope this helps.

Case Verification; Vehicle affected is the LC Challenger equipped with a manual
transmission. It may be difficult to shift in and out of gear.

Recommendation ;Repair this condition by removing the transmission, cleaning the
transmission input shaft splines and the clutch hub splines, regreasing,
and putting all the same parts back together. No parts need to be replaced because clutch disc wear or shaft/hub spline wear are not contributing factors.
The clutch should be removed from the flywheel to properly clean
the clutch splines, because it is not possible to thoroughly clean
the clutch splines otherwise. Do not use harsh spray solvents
(brake clean, etc.) on the clutch discs... care must be taken to
keep cleaning solvents away from the clutch friction material.
Mineral spirits or similar will get the job done. Both of the clutch
hub splines and transmission input shaft splines must be
carefully cleaned. When applying the grease for reassembly, the
entire exposed length of the clutch hub splines (both discs) and
the entire length of the input shaft should be lightly coated with
the P/N 05083150AA grease, spread evenly on all splines
without excess. The flywheel does not need to be removed for
this repair. New clutch pressure plate to flywheel bolts P/N
06508880AA (quantity 6) must be used.

Modification Date 12/10/09 5:02 PM
Review Approved

I've been told the engineers are working on a design change to correct this in the future.

Hope this gives you an edge with your techs

the case # for the bulliten Rovertech posted up is K38556860
 

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Just a note, this KB was applied to mine the first and second trips into the dealerships. Subsequent ones were "we can't reproduce the issue" and even had me drive with the mechanic in an attempt to recreate it.

Have this KB applied, but be aware it may not resolve it (or completely). And oops, it's the spline, not the pilot bearing (that was another issue). :)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Is this a common issue? Thank you both for the info. Was this an official service bulliten?
 

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Is this a common issue? Thank you both for the info. Was this an official service bulliten?
While it's not uncommon, it has quite a few amongst all the brands (Mustang and Corvette are the two I'm aware besides us). The KB is an internal document in the Star system and not publicly available. Or it wasn't as of the last time I went for service (two years ago).
 

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Chrysler fixed mine under Powertrain Warranty

I also had this problem and had it repaired at my dealership and was able to have Chrysler take care of it under Powertrain Warranty. It was by no means easy, but made possible because of all of you out there who armed me with the information needed to convince my Service Manager to take me seriously and agree to remove and inspect the transmission input shaft and pressure plate splines for restricted movement.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
** I pulled this from one of the discussion boards **
Manual trans won't come out of gear or hard shift
Well, Finally got a response from engineering. Once these cars are getting into mid-milage (15-25k) the clutch discs are binding on the input shaft of the transmission. Here is a copy of the actual doc's

The Star Center Case #K38556860


Vehicle Issue Trans is hard to shift into gear.
Year 2009
Model LC - CHALLENGER
Engine 6.1L SRT HEMI (SMPI) V8, 5.7L HEMI VCT, 5.7L HEMI VCT
MDS (EZD)
System or Component;Gear
Driver Input / Vehicle Operation; Shifting

Case Verification; Vehicle affected is the LC Challenger equipped with a manual
transmission. It may be difficult to shift in and out of gear.

Recommendation ;Repair this condition by removing the transmission, cleaning the transmission input shaft splines and the clutch hub splines, regreasing,
and putting all the same parts back together. No parts need to be replaced because clutch disc wear or shaft/hub spline wear are not contributing factors.
The clutch should be removed from the flywheel to properly clean
the clutch splines, because it is not possible to thoroughly clean
the clutch splines otherwise. Do not use harsh spray solvents
(brake clean, etc.) on the clutch discs... care must be taken to
keep cleaning solvents away from the clutch friction material.
Mineral spirits or similar will get the job done. Both of the clutch
hub splines and transmission input shaft splines must be
carefully cleaned. When applying the grease for reassembly, the
entire exposed length of the clutch hub splines (both discs) and
the entire length of the input shaft should be lightly coated with
the P/N 05083150AA grease, spread evenly on all splines
without excess. The flywheel does not need to be removed for
this repair. New clutch pressure plate to flywheel bolts P/N
06508880AA (quantity 6) must be used.

Modification Date 12/10/09 5:02 PM
Review Approved
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
My car is a 2013 R/T Classic (Tremec 6 spd) with 55,000 miles on it. My problems started at 40,000 miles one day in traffic, with the clutch in and still in gear, the car seemed to want to roll forward. At first I thought the clutch wasn’t fully depressed. Not the case. Then when I just decided to pull it out of gear, it resisted, but could be forced into neutral. As time and miles passed, the problem progressed. I could tell that normal shifting wasn’t quite right, it was getting really hard to get into and out of gear quite often at stop lights, and when parking the car it would still want to roll with the clutch in and engine on. The bottom line is that the engine and transmission were not being fully separated by the clutch system.
I made an appointment for a meeting with the Service Manager to discuss my shifting problems. I talked to my Service Writer on a previous visit and got nowhere, “we can’t duplicate it, the clutch isn’t covered”. I think everyone has one of these stories. So I sat down with the Service Manager in his office and explained that I wanted to describe my symptoms, show him Star Case # K38556860, then take a test drive and demonstrate the problem. He pointed out the Star case didn’t directly apply to my model year. I knew this going in, but let him know my position, over and over, so there was no mistake. This is a powertrain issue and we will find the root cause is not an excluded item ( clutch, pressure plate, actuator/bearing, slave cylinder) from the Powertrain Warranty. This is known problem and the fix will be to remove the transmission, clean the input shaft and pressure plate splines, then reassemble using the correct grease. I learned that I could cause the pressure plate to stick by nearly forcing a stall. By driving in first or second and putting on the brakes, like a panic stop in a parking lot, but clutching it just before the engine dies. I did this several times with him in the car. Each time I could tell him the clutch wasn’t fully disengaged and I had him look at the rpm and feel that the engine was dragging down a little. I asked him to take it out of gear so he could see how hard it was, and that just as you take it out of gear, the rpm goes up. He had a clear idea that the transmission wasn’t fully disengaging from the engine the way it is supposed to. Based on our meeting the Service Manager agreed to set an appointment and get me a loaner vehicle while my car was in the shop. He did however state that he couldn’t cover it under Powertrain Warranty until the trans was removed, the problem verified, then signed off by an Area Chrysler Representative. This made me very nervous. What if the Area Rep. isn’t honest or fair?
To make a long story longer, I brought my car in and it was torn down in a few days. The Service Manager agreed that the input shaft and pressure plate were binding and the grease is the cause. Of course we weren’t done yet – the Area Rep still had to decide if he would pay the dealership to make the repair under Powertrain Warranty. The answer was YES. Chrysler would handle this as a Powertrain Warranty claim. They also noticed the actuator/throughout bearing had a rough spot in it and replaced it at no charge. That was a big surprise because this is an excluded item from Powertrain Warranty.
So I can now say, “it shifts like butter”. Thanks again to all of you who posted about this problem and provided the Star Case information.
 

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I’m currently experiencing this issue with my 2010 rt 6spd. It’s quite frustrating bc it doesn’t always do it but when it does it’s at the worst times
 

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Guys, I'm new to the forum and also new to owning a Challenger. I LOVE the car. It is a 2011 R/T 6-speed. My issue is when I'm in a gear, usually seems to be the even gears but mostly 1st, and I push the clutch pedal down, I have to literally FORCE the shifter out of gear. Another symptom is if I let off the brake with the clutch depressed (only when experiencing it being stuck in gear) the car starts to roll as in being under power. It's slow, but it's enough to bump someone in traffic. I have not even owned the car for 3 weeks and have had it into the shop once already to look at this issue. They called Chrysler who says it isn't an issue. Help!
Having same issue with my 2013 it has 48,326 miles.
 

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Having same issue with my 2013 it has 48,326 miles.
best thing is to have the trans pulled clean the input shaft splines and the hub of the clutch and apply the proper grease.

In some instances there's been some that had almost no grease and rusty splines. With the years and clutch dust build up that grease had probably become very dried and sticky.
 

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"ARTIE" is a Black 2016 R/T+ with Super Track Pack, 6 speed, Ruby Red Interior
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Having same issue with my 2013 it has 48,326 miles.
I'm also experiencing this issue in my 2016 RT, it started at 48 000 miles or 77 000 kms and happens especially when I park it and take it again a few minutes later...

What I usually do to ''un-stick'' it is to rev the engine up to 2500rpm (clutch pressed) and on it's way down to 1200rpm it usually pulls out of the gear easier.

I'm tempted to show up at my dealer with this KB and see if they want to do it under warranty. I'm at 57 000 miles now so it's at the end of the powertrain warranty. I doubt they will.
 
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