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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Wash & Wax Cloths

Maybe a stupid question..
But what is the best way to apply and buff off wax?
Microfiber cloths? Any particular brand? Or as long at it says "micro-fibre" on the package it is OK?
Do I need those little circular pads to apply the wax or is it better to use a cloth?
I was going to have the dealer "Paint Sealer" it but it seems expensive and most members on this form do not recommend it.
Thanks!
Richard
 

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Will be subscribing to this thread. Want to know these answers as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have both, which one should I go with?
Also - what is better for drying after washing? Leather (sheep skin) shammy or micro fiber towels?
Thanks!
Richard
 

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why d they say wash the tires and wheels first? seems like youd want to do them ast since they are the grungiest
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yeah - I bought the Meguires Ultimate Liq. wax and it came with the foam applicator - are they a one use deal? Or can you use them for multiple wax jobs?
 

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I use Micro fiber along with a wax/detailer spray.
But this is after using an electric blower to "dry" the car.
(gets the water out of all the hidden places and don't have to use a lot of micro fibers)
 

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why d they say wash the tires and wheels first? seems like youd want to do them ast since they are the grungiest
In the video, he explains that if the wheels were done last, you would get water spray on the paint surface that you had just dried.

The buckets, with Grit-Guard inserts, prevent any dirt particles from getting on the micofiber wash cloth.
 

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For waxing, foam will be the best. They have the least drag. If you are picking up anything on the foam pads, switch to a clean pad.

For drying, a couple of waffle weave microfibers will do very well.
 

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Similar to another thread, I think clean foam pads are the best way to apply waxes. They prime nicely and glide better on the paint. Microfiber seem to drag more.

For buffing, you let it haze (but may depend on the wax) and the remove using a microfiber towel.

The real key is to apply the wax (or sealant) thinly so it removes easily.
 

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....I would agree with Bunky on this one although like many things in detailing, it can boil down to preference. I would also add (in addition to priming easier and less friction), they don't typically absorb as much product as MF or cotton applicators. I typically buy my foam pads by the bulk so I have plenty on hand.

I also prefer (good quality) waffle weave MF towels for drying vs. a chamois or chamois-like product (when I do dry traditionally). I also like to use a quick detailer or a quick wax like Duragloss Aquawax as I dry to provide more lubricity and extra pop. I use gentle, short, interrupted motions as I wipe (along with blotting). In the event I do pick up a stray piece of potentially damaging debris, the short strokes will mean that I'm not dragging it the length of the panel (damage will not be as extensive).

I also prefer lambswool wash media like Mike is using in the video Cuda linked to. For me, I find they tend to be more free-rinsing than other media I have used, they have a lot of nap (for contaminants), they hold a lot of solution and are quite gentle. ....again, it can boil down to a matter of personal preference so use what works for you.

Having said all that, I use a DI (deionized) water filtration system in my set up. This means I can rinse virtually spot free so I am not bound to some of the limitations I would have using straight tap water. I also used forced air to mostly dry my vehicles rather than towels. .....the less I have to touch my finish, the less chances of inducing blemishes and the less frequently I need to correct the paint.
 

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why d they say wash the tires and wheels first? seems like youd want to do them ast since they are the grungiest
I wash my wheel wells tires and rims first and then a fresh bucket of soap and water for the body...just my habit I guess
 
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