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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi guys,

Wanted to get your thoughts on some Mopar extended warranty quotes that I received.

I have a 2015 Dodge Challenger - SXT and my extended warranty was up in September. Now I’m looking back into protection for the car. I called Mopar & got some rates. Now I wanted to get your thoughts.

Some details about me…
-Challenger has 105,000 miles on it
-I own the car. Bought it at 15k miles. Paid complete cash for it.
-But now that I’m not working, need to make sure Im not just wasting money.
-This car is the best thing in my life now & need to make sure I keep it working well.
-I have around $14k to my name now. And no idea when I’ll be working again. Could be up to a year
-I average 15,000 miles on the car a year

Ideally, Im hoping to part with maybe $3500-$4000 on the warranty. Possibly more if you guys think its worth it.
But not sure which one is the smartest buy, or the best deal. Will probably pay it in full.

Quotes By Mopar:
5 Year, Added Care Plus, Up To 75,000, Cost = $4903.13
5 Years Power Train, Up To 75,000 Miles, Cost $3,783.56
4 Year, Max Care, Up to 60,000 miles, Cost = $5,700
4 Year, Added Care Plus, Up To 60,000 miles, Cost = $4801.81
4 Year, Power Train, Up to 60,000 miles, Cost = $3,095.83
3 Year, Max Care, Up to 45,000 miles, Cost = $5532
3 Year, Added Care Plus, Up to 45,000 miles, Cost = $3836.88
3 Year, Power Train, Up To 45,000 miles, Cost = $2722.64

The car has not had many issues. So never needed manufacture warranty. But now that I’ve broken 100,000 miles. I’m worried that now the major issues are going to start. And just want to make sure I am covered the best I can be.

Want to make a decision in the next couple days. Any suggestions would be so appreciated! Has the Max Care or Added Care plus ever come in handy for anyone??

(Sorry if I overloaded with information)

Thanks you,
-Wayne
 

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2016 Dodge Challenger SRT, Billet Silver, Black Rally Stripes, A8
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Given the information you provided I would not buy any warranty at all. I would focus all my efforts into securing new employment and making my savings last as long as I can. Why pay preemptively out of your limited funds for something you're not even sure you're going to need?
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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That car will easily go another 100,000 miles if you maintain it and keep the preventative maintenance current.

My advice would be to take however much money you wanted to spend on this extended warranty and put it aside for emergencies, auto-related or otherwise. Buying an extended warranty now, on that car, will provide you with peace of mind, but that’s it. There is a low probability you will get your money’s worth out of it in terms of warranty claims paid.

Most everything that requires replacement from now on will be items that are not covered by any warranty. Tires, ball joints, brakes, shocks, etc. These items will eventually wear out and require replacement, but they are considered wear items and not covered by the extended warranty, that I am aware of anyway.

The year models of SXTs prior to yours had some issues that might benefit from a warranty, but they were resolved by 2015. You have a very sound and reliable car. Take care of it and it will take care of you.
 

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2018 TA 392 M6; F8 Green
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Just my opinion: I had the extended warranty on my 2010 RT. Drove it until I sold it at 60k miles and NOTHING ever went wrong with the car except a clutch sensor because I was riding with my toe on the clutch Fortunately, when I went in to pay off the loan, they gave me back a portion and pro-rated it. My wife had it on a Chrysler 300 and never needed hers, either. My advice: don’t do it. For $3500 to $4000, you can afford to pay for a lot of repairs. It’s highly unlikely you’d blow the engine on it!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I would focus all my efforts into securing new employment and making my savings last as long as I can. Why pay preemptively out of your limited funds for something you're not even sure you're going to need?
Yes. I get what you are saying 100%. I guess I feel like (food aside) I need to have a functional car more than anything in life. So I think I want the peace of mind... knowing that even if I don't have the money later on, I will still be able to get the car issues fixed & continue to have a functional vehicle.
Then part of me is scared if I put the money aside, I may start spending it.

That car will easily go another 100,000 miles if you maintain it and keep the preventative maintenance current.
Wow. I am glad to see your confidence in that. I guess I was thinking that after 100,000 miles this is when the car headaches will begin. Like back to back. Almost like when your manufacture warranty is over with your cell phone, thats when it starts having problems. I havent had many issues with the car, except for an accident that I got into. Drivers fender was pretty messed up. But everything seems perfectly fine now.

Buying an extended warranty now, on that car, will provide you with peace of mind, but that’s it.
Honestly, I think its the peace of mind that I've needed. Been a stressful couple years. So just dont want to add to it. I guess part of me is nervous, if I put the money aside, I will slowly start spending it... little by little. Then won't have the funds if I need it down the line.

Most everything that requires replacement from now on will be items that are not covered by any warranty. Tires, ball joints, brakes, shocks, etc. These items will eventually wear out and require replacement, but they are considered wear items and not covered by the extended warranty, that I am aware of anyway.
Thanks This was very very helpful!

Drove it until I sold it at 60k miles and NOTHING ever went wrong with the car except
Yea, I guess I feel scared that 100k miles is the breaking point, when things start going wrong left and right. Up to 100k I had the manufacture warranty.

Thank you guys so much for the replies! Very helpful
I'm still not sure what I'm going to do. But I do have a less anxiety now with the idea of not buying a warranty.

But I do have a general question...

I got a max care 3 year in November for my 2015 SPS from a Dodge dealer. I paid $1100.
Can anyone maybe explain why my rates seem more expensive than most other quotes I've seen on these forums?
I got into 1 accident last year. Insurance covered it.
Is it because I did not renew my warranty before it expired?
I'm just not understanding.
 

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Thank you guys so much for the replies! Very helpful
I'm still not sure what I'm going to do. But I do have a less anxiety now with the idea of not buying a warranty.

But I do have a general question...



Can anyone maybe explain why my rates seem more expensive than most other quotes I've seen on these forums?
I got into 1 accident last year. Insurance covered it.
Is it because I did not renew my warranty before it expired?
I'm just not understanding.
I would think that the higher warranty cost is because your car already has 100+k on it.

Warrantees on a new car cost less. I'm assuming that they know what mileage you have, and the quotes reflect that.
 

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My experience with challengers
Bought a new 2010 r/t in October 2009 and put 120 k miles on it as a daily driver in the northeast including driving in snow with blizzak tires--nothing needed repairs other than normal wear and tear. In 2005, I traded it in for a used 2010 r/t because I had the opportunity to get it with only 25 k miles for a $9 k swap fee. I now have 120 k miles on it also as a daily driver including snow driving--nothing needed repair other than normal wear and tear. Its a small sample of 2 but realize a purchased warranty is buying an insurance policy and I would rather "self-insure" to avoid an insurance co profit and also dealing with the problems of "uncovered items" and replacment parts of "dubious" quality.
 

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What industry do you work in where you think you may have to wait a year to find a job? Maybe make a career change? Go back to school? I got my Bachelors degree at age 50. If I can do it, you can too.
 
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Thank you guys so much for the replies! Very helpful
I'm still not sure what I'm going to do. But I do have a less anxiety now with the idea of not buying a warranty.

But I do have a general question...



Can anyone maybe explain why my rates seem more expensive than most other quotes I've seen on these forums?
I got into 1 accident last year. Insurance covered it.
Is it because I did not renew my warranty before it expired?
I'm just not understanding.
Extended warranties are almost always a bad deal for the consumer, a good deal for the warranty companies. It's like dealing with a Casino, they will rig the game so they win most of the time. Set the money aside and use it for emergencies. You will come out better almost every time. Always go with the odds, not what could happen. Just my .02$.
 

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Yeah , I think you are good wayne (y). Your Challenger has a good track record of reliability. I think you pass on that extended warranty. The bunch that wants to sell you the warranty, they are betting somethin is not going to go wrong. They want to keep that cash.
Yeah I agree with the previous posts, you keep the cash instead and 'self -warrant'. I think you will come out ahead.
Obviously you are not hard on your car. You are in that low point of the long 'bath-tub' curve where the subject 'Challenger' is in the highly reliable time of low failure rate. Of course you could have a small part / sensor go bad, but catastrophic ? Very unlikely.
The better you take care of your Challenger, the longer you extend reliability out in time. The 3.6 Pentastar is a good motor, even the NAG1/WA580 transmission is reliable. Keep the fluid changed.
Don't be doing any 'Dukes of Hazzard' bridge jumping , you will be fine !
Best regards
parrott
 

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Extended warranties are almost always a bad deal for the consumer, a good deal for the warranty companies. It's like dealing with a Casino, they will rig the game so they win most of the time. Set the money aside and use it for emergencies. You will come out better almost every time. Always go with the odds, not what could happen. Just my .02$.
They can be, but it does depend on how long one realistically plans on keeping a car, how hard it's driven, etc.

A lot of folks say "I'm keeping this car forever." Some do, most don't.

I ordered my '16 SP, knowing that I would be retiring in roughly two to three years. Also knew that this would be my last "just for me" car.

Time flies, I've been retired 2 1/2 years, the SP is 5 1/2 years old with 29k miles on it.

I did buy the Chysler Max Care Lifetime Warranty when I took delivery. They were still available on 392 cars back then and paid $3200.

Haven't needed it yet, but really don't care. If something goes South, I'll pay the $100 deductable and have it fixed.

Just what this old retired guy wanted for his muscle car!
 

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They can be, but it does depend on how long one realistically plans on keeping a car, how hard it's driven, etc.

A lot of folks say "I'm keeping this car forever." Some do, most don't.

I ordered my '16 SP, knowing that I would be retiring in roughly two to three years. Also knew that this would be my last "just for me" car.

Time flies, I've been retired 2 1/2 years, the SP is 5 1/2 years old with 29k miles on it.

I did buy the Chysler Max Care Lifetime Warranty when I took delivery. They were still available on 392 cars back then and paid $3200.

Haven't needed it yet, but really don't care. If something goes South, I'll pay the $100 deductable and have it fixed.

Just what this old retired guy wanted for his muscle car!
Yes, I agree that with your situation and the deal they offered you (especially through the manufacturer) that would be one of the few that I would say "makes sense". Don't know how old Wayne is but he needs to expend his very limited resources carefully. My guess is that the $3200 for you didn't really "move the needle". That matters.
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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Wow. I am glad to see your confidence in that. I guess I was thinking that after 100,000 miles this is when the car headaches will begin. Like back to back. Almost like when your manufacture warranty is over with your cell phone, thats when it starts having problems. I havent had many issues with the car, except for an accident that I got into. Drivers fender was pretty messed up. But everything seems perfectly fine now.
Your concerns are understandable, if not a little dated. 100K used to be the line of demarcation for a used car’s reliability. Anything beyond 100K was a crap shoot. Transmission failure, engine failure, etc. were not at all uncommon in the 100K+ mileage.

That can still be the case, but usually on poorly maintained cars. Running oil 10K miles when it should have been changed at 5K, never changing the trans fluid, driving on worn out suspension components long after their vibrations and noises indicated they should have been replaced. These are things many people do, and they will often have major component failure once in the 100K mile range.

But nowadays cars are made to last, if they are maintained. Follow the owner’s manual’s recommendations for maintenance, and there is no reason that can’t go 200K miles on you.

Hell, I’m daily driving a former cop car right, a Dodge Charger, so basically the same as your challenger but not as new (2012), and I got it when it had been retired from cop duty. To say it was in bad shape is an understatement. Yet it still ran, and I’ve put another 100K miles on it now. No major component failures, ive also kept up on the maintenance the whole time.

You also have the advantage of having an engine/transmission combo which are rock solid in terms of low failure rates. The only problems I’ve heard of with the 3.6L were the cylinder heads, which were covered under an extended powertrain warranty, and the oil cooler. Both of those were resolved by 2015, so if you were going to encounter them, it would have happened by now.

Honestly, I think its the peace of mind that I've needed. Been a stressful couple years. So just dont want to add to it. I guess part of me is nervous, if I put the money aside, I will slowly start spending it... little by little. Then won't have the funds if I need it down the line.


Thanks This was very very helpful!
Nothing wrong with wanting some peace of mind, but before you purchase one of these warranties, or any warranty for that matter, I would advise you to closely read the terms of the contract about what is and is not covered, and also take note of what a claims process will involve. Both will be in the terms and conditions section of the paperwork.

I think you will be surprised at how little is actually covered with these warranties, and I think they will make collecting on a claim as big a pain to do as possible. That will keep people from using the warranties as maintenance contracts and limit their payouts to only extreme cases for people willing to put in the labor to make them follow through.

Also keep in mind the consequences of limiting the warranty work to a Dodge dealership. That’s fine in the context of getting OEM parts a s knowing they are installed correctly, but it also means you are at the mercy of the dealership doing the work, and most won’t be thrilled for the warranty claim business.

It wouldn’t be unusual for them to stall you, drag their feet, and make it so unattractive that you will give up trying to get them to fix it under the warranty. That save them the hassle of trying to get approval from Dodge for the repair, and it saves the tech doing the work from the hassle of completing it in less time than it can actually take.

I’ll step off my soap box now.

</rant>
 

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Yes, I agree that with your situation and the deal they offered you (especially through the manufacturer) that would be one of the few that I would say "makes sense". Don't know how old Wayne is but he needs to expend his very limited resources carefully. My guess is that the $3200 for you didn't really "move the needle". That matters.
Fully agree that the needle didn't move. Still working, good money coming in, no biggy. Just planning for a fixed income future, and a Challenger to enjoy.

Completely different situation for the OP and the situation he's living.

That said, if I owned his 100k Challenger, there's no way that I would pay the price for any of those warranties.

There's lot's of reliable life left in that car, and I would fix what's needed, as needed.

Honestly was surprised at pricing, but again, it's based on a 100k ride and not a new one.

Guess I'm saying if I was still working, I wouldn't buy any extended warranty for a 100k mile anything.

I'm too cheap, and I used to drive 250-300k on my cars with very few repairs.

Proper maintenance does help too.
 

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Where you guy find these Mopar warranties for such high miles? I have been using jeepfactorywarranty.com for last 2 cars and they only do cars 4 years or newer and up to 75k miles I believe. It's direct Mopar warranty have not had to use it yet on the Durango and just purchased for the Challenger but I rather have one than not.
 

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Your concerns are understandable, if not a little dated. 100K used to be the line of demarcation for a used car’s reliability. Anything beyond 100K was a crap shoot. Transmission failure, engine failure, etc. were not at all uncommon in the 100K+ mileage.

That can still be the case, but usually on poorly maintained cars. Running oil 10K miles when it should have been changed at 5K, never changing the trans fluid, driving on worn out suspension components long after their vibrations and noises indicated they should have been replaced. These are things many people do, and they will often have major component failure once in the 100K mile range.

But nowadays cars are made to last, if they are maintained. Follow the owner’s manual’s recommendations for maintenance, and there is no reason that can’t go 200K miles on you.

Hell, I’m daily driving a former cop car right, a Dodge Charger, so basically the same as your challenger but not as new (2012), and I got it when it had been retired from cop duty. To say it was in bad shape is an understatement. Yet it still ran, and I’ve put another 100K miles on it now. No major component failures, ive also kept up on the maintenance the whole time.

You also have the advantage of having an engine/transmission combo which are rock solid in terms of low failure rates. The only problems I’ve heard of with the 3.6L were the cylinder heads, which were covered under an extended powertrain warranty, and the oil cooler. Both of those were resolved by 2015, so if you were going to encounter them, it would have happened by now.


Nothing wrong with wanting some peace of mind, but before you purchase one of these warranties, or any warranty for that matter, I would advise you to closely read the terms of the contract about what is and is not covered, and also take note of what a claims process will involve. Both will be in the terms and conditions section of the paperwork.

I think you will be surprised at how little is actually covered with these warranties, and I think they will make collecting on a claim as big a pain to do as possible. That will keep people from using the warranties as maintenance contracts and limit their payouts to only extreme cases for people willing to put in the labor to make them follow through.

Also keep in mind the consequences of limiting the warranty work to a Dodge dealership. That’s fine in the context of getting OEM parts a s knowing they are installed correctly, but it also means you are at the mercy of the dealership doing the work, and most won’t be thrilled for the warranty claim business.

It wouldn’t be unusual for them to stall you, drag their feet, and make it so unattractive that you will give up trying to get them to fix it under the warranty. That save them the hassle of trying to get approval from Dodge for the repair, and it saves the tech doing the work from the hassle of completing it in less time than it can actually take.

I’ll step off my soap box now.

</rant>
Nuke, that is a fabulous post. So many truisms in there and a lot of wisdom.
 

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Your concerns are understandable, if not a little dated. 100K used to be the line of demarcation for a used car’s reliability. Anything beyond 100K was a crap shoot. Transmission failure, engine failure, etc. were not at all uncommon in the 100K+ mileage.

That can still be the case, but usually on poorly maintained cars. Running oil 10K miles when it should have been changed at 5K, never changing the trans fluid, driving on worn out suspension components long after their vibrations and noises indicated they should have been replaced. These are things many people do, and they will often have major component failure once in the 100K mile range.

But nowadays cars are made to last, if they are maintained. Follow the owner’s manual’s recommendations for maintenance, and there is no reason that can’t go 200K miles on you.

Hell, I’m daily driving a former cop car right, a Dodge Charger, so basically the same as your challenger but not as new (2012), and I got it when it had been retired from cop duty. To say it was in bad shape is an understatement. Yet it still ran, and I’ve put another 100K miles on it now. No major component failures, ive also kept up on the maintenance the whole time.

You also have the advantage of having an engine/transmission combo which are rock solid in terms of low failure rates. The only problems I’ve heard of with the 3.6L were the cylinder heads, which were covered under an extended powertrain warranty, and the oil cooler. Both of those were resolved by 2015, so if you were going to encounter them, it would have happened by now.


Nothing wrong with wanting some peace of mind, but before you purchase one of these warranties, or any warranty for that matter, I would advise you to closely read the terms of the contract about what is and is not covered, and also take note of what a claims process will involve. Both will be in the terms and conditions section of the paperwork.

I think you will be surprised at how little is actually covered with these warranties, and I think they will make collecting on a claim as big a pain to do as possible. That will keep people from using the warranties as maintenance contracts and limit their payouts to only extreme cases for people willing to put in the labor to make them follow through.

Also keep in mind the consequences of limiting the warranty work to a Dodge dealership. That’s fine in the context of getting OEM parts a s knowing they are installed correctly, but it also means you are at the mercy of the dealership doing the work, and most won’t be thrilled for the warranty claim business.

It wouldn’t be unusual for them to stall you, drag their feet, and make it so unattractive that you will give up trying to get them to fix it under the warranty. That save them the hassle of trying to get approval from Dodge for the repair, and it saves the tech doing the work from the hassle of completing it in less time than it can actually take.

I’ll step off my soap box now.

</rant>
Spot on with current reliability. As a sales rep, I drove about 60k miles a year. I would run all my vans (Ford and Toyota) up to 325 - 350k and trade them in. In 35 years only had trouble with one transmission. Modern cars (well maintained) are incredibly reliable as a rule.
 
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Hi guys,

Wanted to get your thoughts on some Mopar extended warranty quotes that I received.

I have a 2015 Dodge Challenger - SXT and my extended warranty was up in September. Now I’m looking back into protection for the car. I called Mopar & got some rates. Now I wanted to get your thoughts.

Some details about me…
-Challenger has 105,000 miles on it
-I own the car. Bought it at 15k miles. Paid complete cash for it.
-But now that I’m not working, need to make sure Im not just wasting money.
-This car is the best thing in my life now & need to make sure I keep it working well.
-I have around $14k to my name now. And no idea when I’ll be working again. Could be up to a year
-I average 15,000 miles on the car a year

Ideally, Im hoping to part with maybe $3500-$4000 on the warranty. Possibly more if you guys think its worth it.
But not sure which one is the smartest buy, or the best deal. Will probably pay it in full.

Quotes By Mopar:
5 Year, Added Care Plus, Up To 75,000, Cost = $4903.13
5 Years Power Train, Up To 75,000 Miles, Cost $3,783.56
4 Year, Max Care, Up to 60,000 miles, Cost = $5,700
4 Year, Added Care Plus, Up To 60,000 miles, Cost = $4801.81
4 Year, Power Train, Up to 60,000 miles, Cost = $3,095.83
3 Year, Max Care, Up to 45,000 miles, Cost = $5532
3 Year, Added Care Plus, Up to 45,000 miles, Cost = $3836.88
3 Year, Power Train, Up To 45,000 miles, Cost = $2722.64

The car has not had many issues. So never needed manufacture warranty. But now that I’ve broken 100,000 miles. I’m worried that now the major issues are going to start. And just want to make sure I am covered the best I can be.

Want to make a decision in the next couple days. Any suggestions would be so appreciated! Has the Max Care or Added Care plus ever come in handy for anyone??

(Sorry if I overloaded with information)

Thanks you,
-Wayne
As a retired F and I person from a dealership, here are a few thoughts.

1. Most modern cars have very few mechanical engine or transmission failures if proper maintenance is done and the vehicle is not abused. However, a full coverage extended warranty also covers almost all of the electronic components as well. This is were they usually pay off. Even a seemingly small repair of an electronic component can reach the realm of serious money. Most vehicles factory warranty for these components ends at 36/36000. Price a sunroof motor replacement.......about $1200....that cool Uconnect.....about $1500. And in most cases, dealerships honor the warranties. No more taking your dream car to the corner shade tree or chain store (Pepboys or Goodyear) because the dealer charges too much. The warranty company pays the higher price for you.

2. Be sure that the warranty company that they are selling is reputable. Either buy the factory backed warranty or research the third party warranties. There are some large third party warranty companies that are just as good as the factory (Fidelity and Zurich to name a couple), but also some lousy ones as well.

3. Unless you live is a state that mandates the maximum markup that a dealer can charge, most dealers have a significant markup in their warranties. Be sure to NEGOTIATE. Unless you live is a regulated state, they definitely can. If they say otherwise, they are lying.

4. Talk to the people who know the warranties the best...the Service Department Service Advisors. They can tell you if the warranty company is pretty aggreable or a pain in the ass to work with. No company has a prefect record, but some are way better than others.

5. I recently purchased a 2021 Challenger Scat Pack WB with a manual trans. My Platinum Coverage (Full Coverage) warranty was $2800 with a $100 deductable for 8 years or 100,000 miles. I live in a state that regulates the dealer markup to $300 over dealer cost.

6. As a general rule, I recommend the warranties if the company is reputable, price is reasonable, and you have a good dealer to take your vehicle to.

Hope this helps.

Jim
 

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2018 Scat Pack SHAKER in Plum Crazy- GONE :-(
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Where you guy find these Mopar warranties for such high miles? I have been using jeepfactorywarranty.com for last 2 cars and they only do cars 4 years or newer and up to 75k miles I believe. It's direct Mopar warranty have not had to use it yet on the Durango and just purchased for the Challenger but I rather have one than not.
I was emailing Chrysler Warranty Direct. Last summer, they gave me a quote on my 2012 Jeep Grand Cherokee with 99K miles. I thought about it, but rolled the dice, we'll see what they stop on in a couple years.
 
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