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Discussion Starter #3
what is the KW V-1 kit?i guess the P5155435 kit is all srt parts.springs,shocks,isolators for around 500 bucks.
 

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I was going to get the Eibach pro system kit until I saw this Mopar R/T upgrade kit. Good price!
Do you have a link for the R/T upgrade kit?
 

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What I was refering to was the Mopar coil over suspension kit, which is made by KW and is there Version 1. The part number you posted is not for the coil over kit.
 

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Yes" I'm doing the suspension myself, I have a resto shop. I picked up the parts today as the dealer call and told me they came in.:bigthumb:
 

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I had ordered the P5155435 kit as soon as someone posted about it. It only took a few days for delivery too, but they "may" be on back order now and that could be location dependent on the MOPAR parts distributor.

Anyhow I had the dealer install the kit as the air is too cool up here now and while I can get my garage up to 50 F, that is still to cold for me to bust knuckles on springs and struts. The job takes 6 hours if you include an alignment, which I did just to play it safe. I picked up my Challenger today.

You will notice around a 1 inch drop which makes my 20"s look like they belong, but there is clearly a nice improvement in handling on my 6 speed.

The car doesn't have that "floating" feeling, but it is still friendly on bumps.
I can compare this to the Pedders Level 1 touring suspension that I had on my old supercharges SE and it is pretty close at substantially less cost.

I haven't been over 80 mph, but I really like the improvement, even at 30 mph driving around town. This kit is a real bargain. I was the first person to order it and I just told the parts guy it was in the Mopar 2011 Performance catalog and it popped right up. If you have the dealer put it in its not a bad idea to show the manager the kit picture to get time allocated for you. Sometimes you get good stuff from MOPAR at a good price. I think this is one of those good deals.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
thanks for the info matrix.did the dealer say how much your car was out of alignment,if it was at all?
 

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thanks for the info matrix.did the dealer say how much your car was out of alignment,if it was at all?
Essentially the car was in alignment. They tweaked it a bit, only because it was on the rack. This was the same deal when I did the Pedders on the old SE. It is more of spending another $100 dollars to know you don't have a problem. It is never clear that they are perfect from the factory either, but they usually are. I would call it a "feel good" play it safe operation for this kit.
 

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Copy & paste from post I made in General section b4 I saw this thread.
I should have posted this here in the 1st place... oops


does anyone know exactly what the difference is between these shocks, and the ones that came on the SRT's?
I ask because there must be some difference, or the catalog wouldn't say "NOT for use on SRTs'"

I'm looking at these for my wifes 300c... but I also have a line on a set of stock SRT take offs.
So I'm curious what the difference is.
Obviously if you buy this set it is a direct bolt on...
How about a set that comes off a SRT? Are they a direct bolt on too, or do you need additional parts (beyond everything shown in this kit)

Also does anyone know what the Challenger STP spring rates are?
Are they exactly the same spring rate as the standard RT only mounted on Blistons, or are they stiffer?
How do they compare to the stock 300c spring rates?

Here is why I'm asking... I want my challenger lower, and my wifes 300c stiffer but NOT lower.
SO I'm thinking of throwing this kit on my STP Challenger and then tossing my setup onto my wifes 300c.
Hopefully that lowers mine and stiffens up her rock & roller... (would add a stiffer front sway bar to the 300 too)

Option 2 is to get this kit for hers... and then just put SRT springs on mine.
But I really don't want the 300 lower... it scrapes some driveways already.
So maybe I could mount my springs on these shocks & then put them on her car to keep the height.

Any thoughts
 

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New srt spring kit installed

Ok I installed the new SRT kit from Mopar last weekend. Here the deal. DON'T DO WHAT THE MANUAL TELLS YOU TO DO. First I have a lift but if you don't you can still do this on the ground. (USE HORSES) for ground.( Front springs.) Remove strut caps. Loosen all 3 nuts holding the spring mount to your wheel wells. You can take off two nuts and just leave one nut on loose, if you want. With a jack or a long stand for a lift, jack up the car under control arm just a little bit. Remove your ABS and brake lines from strut. They just come loose from strut, and you will have to remove one nut off the strut that wholes the brake line on. Remove the lower strut bolt and let the jack down slow. Now take a pry bar and pry your lower strut from the control arm until it is hanging free. Now go back to the top of the car and remove the last nut from the upper strut. Your strut can now be removed. Make sure you use a Strut spring compressor to remove and intall your new spring. THIS IT A MUST, DO NOT DO THIS JOB WITHOUT THAT TOOL Install new struts by bolting up your top three bolt first leaving them loose. then your lower bolt and so on. The struts will go in easy because the springs are shorter then the old R/T springs. See picture below.
REAR. Don't loosen up your rear cradle This is not needed . Jack up car and set on horses, if your doing this on the ground. Now jack up your car from the rear lower control arm just so you take the pressure off of the rear spring. Make sure your car is as high as it can be jacked up so as to leave you room to remove the jack once your spring is loose. Now remove the shock bolt from the shock at the bottom of the control arm. Now remove your 2 rear muffler hangers from the rear by your rear tips and let the exhaust hang down. The left side is easy and on the right side you will need to pry this down so that you may get the bolt out of the lower control arm. Now with the jack under your lower control arm remove your inner rear control arm bolt and nut. (this is the bolt closest to your diff.) Lower your jack slow and when loose, with all the spring pressure off remove your springs and rubber mounts. Now you can remove the two remaining bolts that hold your shocks in place from inside your cars upper wheel wells. remove shocks. Install new spring and shocks. TIP intall the rear contorl arm bold backwards this will make it much easier then it was before. Also a small cut 2X3 of wood will help keep your control arm from rolling or turning on you. You will also need a taped punch to help you align the hole to reinstall the lower bolts in the control arm. My job took me just under three hours. with a lift. Install your shock first inside the wheel well and then at the lower control arm. Make sure you have your rubber mounts in the right place. If your not sure, how things go back together take pictures of your parts before and after. I cut my front springs about 2 1/2 inches for more drop in the front. (that just me and you won't need to do this. to your car. The cars ride height is just about right and it will settle some more. The car rides nice with very little if any roll at all. I'll get a wheel alignment in the spring .This car is going away for the winter. I thing an alignment is a must with the change in the ride height. Good Luck.:thumbsup:
 

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It was about 3/4 of an inch more in the drop I would say. I have about a inch or less from the wheel lip to the top of the tire. It wasn't a whole coil, just about the lent of a finger.
 

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I got my second kit today. The first kit was missing one shock absorber and one of the shock dust covers was busted. The second kit had all the major pieces but one shock cover was missing and the other was busted. The shock dust covers are real cheap plastic and don't survive the shipping with the springs.
The rear shocks come assembled with the top mount but in a separate box is another top mount and it looks to be the same part. Are you suppose to swap it out or what?
Does anyone know if the stock R/T rear dust covers will fit the SRT Bilstien shocks?
Thanks for any info.
 
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