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2016 plum crazy purple R/T Scat Pack
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Discussion Starter #1
So or the past week my '10 R/T has the ABS, ESP, and Mr Squiggles lights come on within a minute of start up and then go back off within about a mile of driving. Any ideas where to start looking for the issue? Plugged in my scanner but no codes are being thrown...
 

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Becoming a common issue on allot of 2010 & older Challengers and other Chrysler LX vehicles. You need a code scanner that can read ABS codes not just powertrain DTC's. You can rent one from AutoZone. It could be anything involving the ABS/traction control system like a bad wheel sensor, but my bet is it will most likely have 2 ABS codes present. C121A steering angle sensor not initialized & C2205 steering angle sensor internal. My 2010 Challenger RT did this exact same thing for the last year before I traded it in. If you research it you will find several guys on here with the same issue. If the steering angle sensor needs to be replaced it usually must be done at a shop as it involves removing the steering wheel and then the new sensor needs to be calibrated with the use of a hand held computer. There is however a quick fix out there that seems to be working and it only takes about 5 minutes and the use of a Torx T30 screwdriver. Basically if you look at the bottom of your steering column you will see one lone recessed Torx screw at the end near the steering wheel. Loosen that screw 4 turns but don't remove it. Firmly grab the plastic shroud around the steering column and pull it as far back (towards the steering wheel) and push it as far left (towards drivers door) as you can. It may only move just a small fraction of an inch. While holding back and left, re-tighten that Torx screw. If you still have the code scanner, you can clear the codes and test drive the car to see if they come back. You can also just drive the car and if the procedure worked, the codes will eventually reset themselves. Believe it or not this exact quick fix procedure is what worked for my Challenger. I think what it really does is just slightly repositions that sensor so that it has a new spot to pick up a signal from when the wheel turns back and forth. Give it a try it's easy to do.
 

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2016 plum crazy purple R/T Scat Pack
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Thanks for the reply. I do have a bad wheel sensor, never gave it a thought affecting other things. I'll get that replaced first, then if needed I'll try your fix.
 

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Thanks for the reply. I do have a bad wheel sensor, never gave it a thought affecting other things. I'll get that replaced first, then if needed I'll try your fix.
The computers need to know the wheel speed for all three of those systems. ABS, ESC and Traction Control.
 

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2016 plum crazy purple R/T Scat Pack
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Discussion Starter #5
My bad, I meant tire presssure sensor. Guess I'll go get borrow a scanner....
 

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Replaced the bad right front TPMS sensor. Checked and found 3 codes for right front wheel speed sensor. Cleared the codes, all good so far.....
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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It's probably not related to your issue, but I have seen the same behavior (those ESP/BAS warning lights while driving) after working in the engine bay and having to move/reposition the fuse-box-thingy for whatever reason.

For instance, I figured out one day that you can unlatch that fuse box and tilt it over on its side if it's in your way to access that side of the engine. Well, there's some kind of spatially aware sensor on that box, because if you do that to the fuse box, those lights on the dash will light up like a Xmas tree!!

The fix is to just re-calibrate the system so that it understands there has not been a wreck and the car is not actively spinning out of control or anything, and then everything is good to go again. (I forget the re-calibration procedure, but I am pretty sure I documented it in one of my threads on this subject somewhere in this forum).

Also, one other thing that will cause those lights to go crazy is if you unhook the battery for several hours or more, and while it's unhooked, you do something to the steering that leaves it differently aligned than when the power was cut. Something like rotating the tires on the front of the car would do this if you had the front end jacked up where both tires are off the ground at the same time and you can (inadvertently) reposition the direction of the steering wheel angle. If that is done while the battery is unhooked, those lights will come on once you try to drive the car anywhere because the computer has wonky angles in its memory that don't match current inputs.

The reset for that one is pretty simple, something like starting with steering pointed straight ahead (by wheels, not by steering wheel) and slowly turning steering wheel from lock to lock left/right one time each. That realigns everything in the computer's view and those lights go out.

That one is likely not your issue either from the sounds of it, but I figured I would make note of it as well since I was talking about things that make those lights go crazy...
 
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