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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A brief snapshot of my Top 10 and Bottom 10 runs out of a total of 47 of the 50 quarter-mile runs I've done with it, that I haven't butchered the run by trying to use the Transbrake or some other knuckleheaded move on my part...(and some car porn as a reward for reading)

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(and now, the car porn)...

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1017798
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Looks good, how consistent are your reaction times. Average light cut?
When I stop worrying about my launch, 0.08- to 0.06 on a Sport tree...but that’s the inconsistency I referenced. I get so caught up quantifying my burnout, or load while footbraking, that I exhaust myself & fall asleep at the light.
 
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When I stop worrying about my launch, 0.08- to 0.06 on a Sport tree...but that’s the inconsistency I referenced. I get so caught up quantifying my burnout, or load while footbraking, that I exhaust myself & fall asleep at the light.
"Fall asleep", crap, better than I could do! But then, I'm old. Awesome! Told myself I wouldn't track my 21' SPWB but sure sounds like fun. I raced Supercross Open Class for years. I love racing!
 

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That's very good consistency for both the car and the driver. Congrats on some real nice runs. I find my Scat Pack is also very consistent when DA, & track prep are also consistent. I'm jealous of those DA's, last Friday was the best I've seen at Atlanta, high of 750 low of 290. Normal range is 1000 to 2700. The 1320 suspension appears to work well, your best 60' times beat my best by .04 to .05. Nice.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
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When I stop worrying about my launch, 0.08- to 0.06 on a Sport tree...but that’s the inconsistency I referenced. I get so caught up quantifying my burnout, or load while footbraking, that I exhaust myself & fall asleep at the light.
concentrate on the last yellow on the tree. They changed the timing on the lights since I last raced, used to be 0.500 between the first yellow and the green, it is now 0.400, non pro tree. I used to punch the gas when the last yellow lit up, I once cut a 0.506 light (perfect was 0.500) racing a stock 94 Thunderbird 4.6 L
 

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concentrate on the last yellow on the tree. They changed the timing on the lights since I last raced, used to be 0.500 between the first yellow and the green, it is now 0.400, non pro tree. I used to punch the gas when the last yellow lit up, I once cut a 0.506 light (perfect was 0.500) racing a stock 94 Thunderbird 4.6 L
I've always heard the phrase "go on yellow" too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I've always heard the phrase "go on yellow" too.
Yes, I've trained myself to go on the third yellow also.

However, there's a loooooong time between when the third yellow begins to glow, and when it's fully lit; that's the difference between a RT that begins with a "0" and one that begins with a "1" or "2".

The Pro Tree is the one that has me flummoxed; probably because I've read too much about it. Technically, at the MSHS events I run, they use a Pro Tree that has a built-in random "lag" of between 1.2 and 1.7 seconds from the time the final stage light is lit, to when the 3 ambers flash. It is this "lag" that I struggle to compensate for...though as I write this I simply need to focus on an amber bulb and go when it begins to glow.
 
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A brief snapshot of my Top 10 and Bottom 10 runs out of a total of 47 of the 50 quarter-mile runs I've done with it, that I haven't butchered the run by trying to use the Transbrake or some other knuckleheaded move on my part...(and some car porn as a reward for reading)

View attachment 1017796
(and now, the car porn)...

View attachment 1017797



View attachment 1017798

Great data! I'm impressed with your 1/8 mi speeds of 93's and 94's mph. My stock 1320 (with the original Nexens, full cloth interior, and one relatively heavy driver) has gotten after 12 runs
1/8 mi speeds of 90's, through 92's. No consistency by me as my 1/4 mi times are from 11.8 to 12.2 with a 12.3 outlier.

One consistent stat is the last 1/8 mi times have been 4.275 within .03 seconds, so I think the engines HP is very consistent over different days, times, and places. So, getting a [email protected] 1/8 mi time is my ticket to a coveted 11.7 1/4 mi time. Again, great times.
 

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A brief snapshot of my Top 10 and Bottom 10 runs out of a total of 47 of the 50 quarter-mile runs I've done with it, that I haven't butchered the run by trying to use the Transbrake or some other knuckleheaded move on my part...(and some car porn as a reward for reading)

View attachment 1017796
...
I'd like to see all of your data in Excel, then play with some "Conditional Formatting" You sort them by E.T or MPH at the end (better indication of actual power that run) and can visually tie in the DA or something else.
 

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I'd like to see all of your data in Excel, then play with some "Conditional Formatting" You sort them by E.T or MPH at the end (better indication of actual power that run) and can visually tie in the DA or something else.
Sure, give me some time to put it together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I'd like to see all of your data in Excel, then play with some "Conditional Formatting" You sort them by E.T or MPH at the end (better indication of actual power that run) and can visually tie in the DA or something else.
Data the man asks for...I've got your data for ya!

My data log. If I can't get the DA at the time of the run, I devised a formula to calculate it at a later date using historical data (in red). On the far right are my notes on the run an quantification of the variables I try to control.

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From the raw data above, my data tables self populate

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Graphs for better visualization

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
And because I don't have years to gain practical experience and "feel" to learn how to "dial in" and lift off during a run, I've graphed this in terms of fender lengths
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...so, "mash the loud pedal" then?

A Guy
 

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I gotta say, I'm geeking out big time on your graphs! Cool.
 
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