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Ok so let me explain myself first. Im an auto tech and posses many car skills required to build from the ground up. I can see what i want a car to look like and build tward that. I purchased a '11 from an auction for 1200. Yes 1200. Nose was gone(perfect for me) no other damage besides air bags/seat belts. Bought it in west Virginia. I live in Tampa fl. So i fired up my f150( last project) and took a trailer to WV. Loaded the the challenger up and brought it home. I have always wanted a challenger since they came out. The end result im after is a 440(old school engine) and 6 speed.

I started in march '19. Bought fenders from a junkyard. Ordered a nose from ebay( nightmare) would not recommend the nose i bought and redeye hood from dodge. Lights are aftermarket( front and rear) sequential turn signals.

I stumbled across another challenger at the auctions in NJ. Second was destroyed. Someone made mistake and had it marked sxt yet it was a r/t with 25k miles. I bought it for1900. Was 6 speed also. Pass side was gone( hit a tree) had cloth interior. Engine and drive line was fine. I did my homework and researched if it was possible to swap everything out. Very limited info out on the web about it. Im no rookie to making drastic switches to cars/trucks so ive got the knowledge and the tools. Anyways i sold the 3.6 out of the sxt. Sold trans and diff. Recouped my initial $$ for the sxt plus some.

What most of you dont realize and i didnt either is that these cars are actually made for standards. Not automatic. They are set up to be stick. Factory actually has to make changes to become automatics.

The swap is not that hard. Worse part is the carriage(subframe). Dodge switched where the power steering pump goes. A '15 is built into the rack where the '11 is on the pass front fender area and attached to the bumper. I modified my subframe to accept the new rack. I stripped the '15 first. Took completely apart. Once it was dismantled i started on the '11. I actually switched the majority of parts out in 3 days.

I wanted long tubes and bought them. The '15 had borla exhaust from cats back. Made sure i bought long tubes with the extension pipes to have complete exhaust. The '15 also came with 3.90s in the rear with lsd. Will be changing that out to 4.11 or 4.56 eventually. Used the blisteen shocks,struts and springs. I used the '15 harness and everything salvageable out of it. Had to repair some of the harness from accident. Solder and shrink wrap only for all my electrical repairs. I own an older flat bed tow truck and had the '15 on it when lightning struck it. Cooked the fuse box. Had to repair the fuse box also. Was melted and damaged from lightning strike.( always my luck) lol.

First thing that went into the '11 was the pedal assembly. Easy. Ive got pics that show 3 pedals and auto shifter. Next was harness. Wasnt bad but not for the newbie.

I pulled the v6 and put in new mounts from dodge for the v8. Actually didnt see a difference in the mounts but switched anyways. Put the headers on the motor and dropped body back down onto the carriage. My intake was broke on the '15. I purchased a holley sheetmetal intake and 95mm tb. I know theres naysayers that wouldn't switch but air in and out is very important. Besides it looks cool and i can get a bag of ice UNDER the intake to make the charge air ice cold. I purchased a cold air intake box from mopar( expensive). I modified it so only air from the hood goes into the motor, full functioning ram air. I did a hybrid of the ac system. Half '11 and half '15. Yes they are different but easy enough to manipulate into working correctly. Few other things are different and im working thru that now. Because i purchased the head lights and tail lights before i bought the '15 created a problem. Im grafting the older tail light design(still led) into the new '15 bumper and trunk assembly. Same with the headlights. I purchased a set of the black spoke 20's and installed them. Im going to run brembos off a srt cause i want 4 piston brakes instead of the r/t's 2 piston or the sxt single piston. They say you cant do it,but trust me it can be done. Knee brake holes measure the same. Dust sheilds will be the tricky part. Not sure if i can get the big ones or not.

So my car is sitting right now with hemi 5.7 and 6 speed, '15 parts all in it. Including gas tank which was ordered to hold 6 more gallons of gas.( unknown why).

I came across some leather srt seat covers. These were pulled from a car with same miles as mine. I dont care that they say srt, not what i was after. Just wanted a leather interior. Not for the novice to make the swap. Tricky to strip and replace. But well worth the look. For anyone looking for info on interior or exterior swaps ask me anything. Ill try to help you out if i can with info. I did have to drill one hole on the drivers rear for one wire to run thru. Factory has the spot on the '11 but its not drilled. Rest is pretty much bolt on stuff.
 

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Pics IMG_20190313_173401.jpg
 

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Enough for now. Will post more later. Ask questions, i dont mind. All work was done by me. *My wife helped putting dash into car
 

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When the 440 goes in ill run indy cylinder heads. The 440 is getting harder and harder to find. Ill probably get one out of a motor home cause of the steel crank. Use to have an '85 ram 100 short bed with built 440. Had to move the brake booster over 1/2 inch to clear mopar aluminium valve covers. The cam sensor is the hold up. Have been trying to figure out how to get the distributor to read the cam sensor. Crank sensor is easy part. Just use the ring from a 5.7 and weld it to the crank pulley
 

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I like it. I ordered a dual pattern intake and received a single bolt pattern. Single bolt is LS throttle body. No biggie tho. Mocked it up,marked the holes to the 95mm tb and drilled and tapped the holes. Looses a little torque on bottom end but with a comp 274 cam and rear gears i can make the loss back up. I just didnt want the long runner length of the factory 5.7 or 6.1 intake. I like the height of it also. Allows me to stuff a bag of ice under it to help keep air charge ice cold.
 

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I like it. I ordered a dual pattern intake and received a single bolt pattern. Single bolt is LS throttle body. No biggie tho. Mocked it up,marked the holes to the 95mm tb and drilled and tapped the holes. Looses a little torque on bottom end but with a comp 274 cam and rear gears i can make the loss back up. I just didnt want the long runner length of the factory 5.7 or 6.1 intake. I like the height of it also. Allows me to stuff a bag of ice under it to help keep air charge ice cold.
Interesting—do you have any dyno info on the intake? I’ve heard mixed things about it...
 

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I researched and checked a lot of places, but only could find info for the coyote motor or the LS motor. Talked to few guys at the track that were running them also. Knowing i wanted a full functioning ram air setup cause of my hood and going to change the cam out to the 274 CC cam and lower rear gears so i can turn the motor higher rpm. The shorter runners kill the bottom end some but for me the gain at the top end where engine will live most of its life was an equal trade off.
My intake was busted. Tb was ripped off from it. I checked the 6.1 and other intakes but all have basically same design, just different materials theyre made from. I wanted a space between the intake and engine to help keep the charge cooler. Hood alows me the extra clearance over the stock hood.
  1. Not much info out there on mopar engines. Most just follow the leader or what theyre buddies did. Thats not me. Understanding what i want the engine to do and the rpm range it will live in had a lot of influence on my choice. Long runners are great for bottom end but the shorter runners make more power on the top end. Learned that playing with gm's tpi setup and dyno. So for me it was a decision that i hope will show well on the track and dyno. Im more worried about the 95mm tb. Time will tell if i need to make a different change or not. Once cam and gears go in we shall see.
 

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Heres a little more about the holley intake manifold. It does take modification to make it work on '15 up hemi. The fuel rails and injectors dont fit out of the box. The hardware they send has no spacers. The fittings they use are straight. Need 90 degree turns and the only send straight. Im running AN lines anyways so dont need them. The oil provision doesnt clear the rail. Had to ding it slightly. The MAP sensor has a location hole but no hold down for it or way to lock it in. Ill post pics of what i did to resolve these few issues. Fuel line requiers AN adapter. Have a bunch of AN stuff laying around so ill try to show what i did for the fuel and line to brake booster. I still have the evap line out to the purge valve.(for now). Just moved the location to rear instead of front. Heres some pics.
 

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