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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, i have a 2018 challenger SXT with 9k miles, i’ve noticed that it drives funny which is cutting while accelerating specially under 30 mph, and gear under 4, i changed the gas type many times to observe but very slight difference, i took it to dealership twice they say its ok, its very lazy and sluggish and when accelerates rpm goes up 3 or little bit more and comes down to 1.5 i used gas 87 recently, and I’ve been in this situation since it was 3k miles any advice
 

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Phantom Black SXT+ 100th Anniversay
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I noticed my car seems like it adjusts itself to the way you drive. Mine has the NAG-1 5-speed tranny and at first I thought it shifted weird but after getting use to it over the weeks I can

make it so its a lot more responsive and smooth just by using the gas pedal. Can you explain "cutting"? Try sport mode if you have that for a totally different animal around town. B-
 

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I noticed my car seems like it adjusts itself to the way you drive. Mine has the NAG-1 5-speed tranny and at first I thought it shifted weird but after getting use to it over the weeks I can

make it so its a lot more responsive and smooth just by using the gas pedal. Can you explain "cutting"? Try sport mode if you have that for a totally different animal around town. B-

It does. Pull fuse #2 in the under hood fuse block for 20-30 seconds and reinstall.
 

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Just to clarify. Fuse #2 is for the 2008-2014 Challengers! For a 2018, you want to pull fuse #29 (TCM) and #31 (ECM).

Fuse #2 on the 2015+ is the "Radiator Fan #1". :)
 

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Thanks for the tip about fuse number two. I did it earlier and actually did notice a difference. Read that thread also about it so I had to try it. I think the OP should try it. But as mentioned above will have to remove the fuse number 29.Thanks again. B-
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I noticed my car seems like it adjusts itself to the way you drive. Mine has the NAG-1 5-speed tranny and at first I thought it shifted weird but after getting use to it over the weeks I can

make it so its a lot more responsive and smooth just by using the gas pedal. Can you explain "cutting"? Try sport mode if you have that for a totally different animal around town. B-
Thanks for your reply, what I meant actually by cutting is when you are at stop position like a light and you start accelerate gradually from 0 mph - 30 for example, the car start acceleration while foot on pedal suddenly a cut happens in that acceleration causing RPM to go up to 3.5 or 4 and comes back down and that also simultaneously with the gear shifting
 

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Thanks for your reply, what I meant actually by cutting is when you are at stop position like a light and you start accelerate gradually from 0 mph - 30 for example, the car start acceleration while foot on pedal suddenly a cut happens in that acceleration causing RPM to go up to 3.5 or 4 and comes back down and that also simultaneously with the gear shifting
Did you reproduce the behavior when the car was being checked at the dealership? That is not normal behavior.

My WAG is either there is something wrong with the throttle system (I assume it is a drive by wire/electronic system) or possibly the transmission assuming the transmission is an automatic.

In either case to have the car (engine/transmission) accelerate that is not directly in sync with what you do with the gas pedal is a safety hazard.

There is not much you can do on your driveway. I'm reluctant to advise a battery disconnect -- a power reset of the car's electronics systems -- even pulling a fuse or two to reset the automatic transmission controller and a fuse to reset the engine controller/electronic throttle.

If there is a documented throttle reset or calibration operation you can do you can try that. I'm not aware of any. Try googling a throttle reset operation for the model of your car.

If you find this and do it and it doesn't help and I don't hold much hope for this, you need to take the car back in and be sure you can demo the behavior. Then stress because of this and your concern the car would suddenly accelerate which is a safety issue you have lost all enjoyment of the use of the car.

You must be prepared to leave the car. If the dealer can talk you into believing this is normal or even just talk you into leaving with the car you lose.

Be sure your concerns about the car's safety are written on the work order/service request, even if you have to write then on the form before you sign.

The dealer can't just act dumb. If the dealer acts dumb can't help you that is consumer fraud. The car is a Dodge. The dealer is a Dodge dealer. To sell you a car yet claim it can't (or won't) service/repair the car -- especially one under warranty is consumer fraud. I mean who would buy a Dodge from a Dodge dealer if the salesman said "Oh, by the way, once you buy the car don't bring it back, we can't service it."?

When buying a car the implication is the dealer can provide whatever service/repair the car might need. I specifically ask the dealer/salesman about servicing my new car should I purchase the car and every time the salesman offers up all kinds of assurances the dealer service department is up to the task.

Be calm. Polite. Be sure to make notes on who you talked to and what was said. Stress the car is not acting right and the behavior raises -- as it should -- serious questions as to the safety/road worthiness of the car.
 

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...the car start acceleration while foot on pedal suddenly a cut happens in that acceleration causing RPM to go up to 3.5 or 4 and comes back down and that also simultaneously with the gear shifting
What you're describing ^ sounds like shift flare (disengaging clutch is releasing too early, before the engaging clutch is pressurized/ready to receive load). If I'm understanding your description correctly, what you're describing is a transmission issue.

Does it act up with every upshift? (I assume not)
Which gear(s) is the trans shifting to/from when this happens? Does this happen on the same upshift when it flares? 2-3 or 3-4 upshift, etc.?
Only when warm/cold/under heavy throttle, etc.?
If I drove your car and did 100 take offs, how many times would it act up/flare?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Did you reproduce the behavior when the car was being checked at the dealership? That is not normal behavior.

My WAG is either there is something wrong with the throttle system (I assume it is a drive by wire/electronic system) or possibly the transmission assuming the transmission is an automatic.

In either case to have the car (engine/transmission) accelerate that is not directly in sync with what you do with the gas pedal is a safety hazard.

There is not much you can do on your driveway. I'm reluctant to advise a battery disconnect -- a power reset of the car's electronics systems -- even pulling a fuse or two to reset the automatic transmission controller and a fuse to reset the engine controller/electronic throttle.

If there is a documented throttle reset or calibration operation you can do you can try that. I'm not aware of any. Try googling a throttle reset operation for the model of your car.

If you find this and do it and it doesn't help and I don't hold much hope for this, you need to take the car back in and be sure you can demo the behavior. Then stress because of this and your concern the car would suddenly accelerate which is a safety issue you have lost all enjoyment of the use of the car.

You must be prepared to leave the car. If the dealer can talk you into believing this is normal or even just talk you into leaving with the car you lose.

Be sure your concerns about the car's safety are written on the work order/service request, even if you have to write then on the form before you sign.

The dealer can't just act dumb. If the dealer acts dumb can't help you that is consumer fraud. The car is a Dodge. The dealer is a Dodge dealer. To sell you a car yet claim it can't (or won't) service/repair the car -- especially one under warranty is consumer fraud. I mean who would buy a Dodge from a Dodge dealer if the salesman said "Oh, by the way, once you buy the car don't bring it back, we can't service it."?

When buying a car the implication is the dealer can provide whatever service/repair the car might need. I specifically ask the dealer/salesman about servicing my new car should I purchase the car and every time the salesman offers up all kinds of assurances the dealer service department is up to the task.

Be calm. Polite. Be sure to make notes on who you talked to and what was said. Stress the car is not acting right and the behavior raises -- as it should -- serious questions as to the safety/road worthiness of the car.

I went 3 times to the dealer and the man sat next to me, we took a ride and the BS is that it runs so good and normal in a way that I just get pissed off, i tried explaining to him but all he says is its normal and he didn't see any weird thing and he's right because on these rides in the dealer its runs normal
i don't know if you got my explanation because regarding acceleration i doesn't accelerate from within itself, its not dangerous enough to be a safety issue, in that case i would definitely take it and leave it at the dealership, it is just kinda acting up
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
What you're describing ^ sounds like shift flare (disengaging clutch is releasing too early, before the engaging clutch is pressurized/ready to receive load). If I'm understanding your description correctly, what you're describing is a transmission issue.

Does it act up with every upshift? (I assume not)
Which gear(s) is the trans shifting to/from when this happens? Does this happen on the same upshift when it flares? 2-3 or 3-4 upshift, etc.?
Only when warm/cold/under heavy throttle, etc.?
If I drove your car and did 100 take offs, how many times would it act up/flare?

your questions are pretty precise and i think to diagnose what's going on we have to have those specific question

the car does not act up with every upshift, it act up when trans shift from 1-2, 2-3, 3-4, after 4 things are normal
i winter when the car is cold it acts up more than summer, and I'm in Arizona but in summer acts up a lot less

if you drove my car and you did 100 take offs it would act up aprox. 40-50 times

on the highway its runs awesome, anything above 50 mph is awesome, but under 40 mph is sluggish, lazy and acting up, if you stop on the light and then light turns green when you move 0-20 with very careful pedal rpm goes to 3500 and come down to 1500 after gear shifts to 3 or 4
 

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You don't need these headaches seriously consider dumping it to an r/t, the slight increase you'll see In payments will far out weigh it living at the dealers service area, inconveniencing you, and making your life miserable...2 cents
 

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Ok I misunderstood the severity of the symptoms.

What EngiNerd posted reads like he may be on to what is going on.
 

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your questions are pretty precise and i think to diagnose what's going on we have to have those specific question

the car does not act up with every upshift, it act up when trans shift from 1-2, 2-3, 3-4, after 4 things are normal
i winter when the car is cold it acts up more than summer, and I'm in Arizona but in summer acts up a lot less

if you drove my car and you did 100 take offs it would act up aprox. 40-50 times

on the highway its runs awesome, anything above 50 mph is awesome, but under 40 mph is sluggish, lazy and acting up, if you stop on the light and then light turns green when you move 0-20 with very careful pedal rpm goes to 3500 and come down to 1500 after gear shifts to 3 or 4
I would suggest you schedule a time to go back to the dealer to demonstrate the problem, either with a service advisor or the service manager riding along. If that's not feasible, consider leaving the veh w/them for a few days to drive it/get it to act up.

Bottom line is the dealer needs to be able to duplicate any concern in order to fix it, my advice would be to make whatever arrangements are necessary to do that. Be as specific as possible w/your description, or better yet, take them on a drive and demonstrate the concern. G'luck!
 
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