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I guess what I am not getting is where do you connect the wires to? I have seen one post that says you have to connect to the power and reverse wires. Another to the back up lights. I can figure out how to route the wire, but nobody has shown how it connects. Or, am I missing it? Are the 3.0 and the Nav2Go 2.0 different in how they connect? I am gathering the 3.0 plugs into the radio and the camera plugs into the Lockpick? I would like to save $100 by getting the Nav2Go. They sell it for $169 + another $20 for some connector. Still trying to piece this all together.
 

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you need the audio/video adapter (the one with all the RCA cables) to add the backup camera. that is where the RCA cable from the camera goes. the standard lockpick kit doesn't come with it. i have the TVandNAV2go kit. it was $179 with the AV adapter.
 

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My lockpick was about $100 more than that including all cables and one camera. if your worried about how it hooks up, there's no way to hook this one up wrong.
Rick
 

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TVandNAV2go with camera adapter off of Ebay. 2 hour install with camera. I went with the Boyo license plate cam that comes with the camera built into the cover. I know I have a thread on it somewhere in here. I think it was the VTL300, you would NEVER in a million years know it's there. I was very picky as some look big.

Only problem I has was the back seat removal. That took me 45 minutes, and should of have been 1 minute! I am used to the old school back seats that you have to push in, and up to remove. Well that makes it NOT come out. You simply pull straight up on each side of the seat to remove it.
 

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Thanks, guys. I spent last night reading the instructions from Nav2Go and Lockpick and I think I will go with the NAv2Go for $169 and the Boyo 375 for $139. I don't need the 3.0 for updates. I just want a backup camera, so if it worked during the 2.0 days, it will work for me.
 

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Thanks, guys. I spent last night reading the instructions from Nav2Go and Lockpick and I think I will go with the NAv2Go for $169 and the Boyo 375 for $139. I don't need the 3.0 for updates. I just want a backup camera, so if it worked during the 2.0 days, it will work for me.

Good luck, and keep us posted. Don't forget the rear seat removal. I have installed audio equipment in over a hundred of cars in my life as I did it for a living for quite a few years, and have never seen a back seat that you pull straight up to remove! (18 years ago...lol)
 

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Its not that hard to mount a bullet camera in the rear spoiler instead of on the license plate. I got the lockpick and the bullet camera they sell, i got the multimedia harness for free at the time of purchase which was back in May or June. Routing the camera wire along the wiring harness inside the trunklid was easy, most time consuming was removing rear seat back to route wire thru the rear seat wall, then under the right side armrest cover, under the door sills then behind footwell plastic piece and behind the glovebox. Took about 30 minutes to install the camera once i had it mounted in the spoiler.

Finished look to me looks just like a trunklid keyhole, and i get excellent visibility that eliminates the blindspots on the sides.
 

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Its not that hard to mount a bullet camera in the rear spoiler instead of on the license plate.

Finished look to me looks just like a trunklid keyhole, and i get excellent visibility that eliminates the blindspots on the sides.
WL Interesting mount. How about some pictures? I really can't envision it.

SR, Interesting route. What made you think of going that way instead of through the vent in the back of the trunk?
 

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Here it is installed, hardly noticable from the rear. Unless you look for it.





Here is the gruesome shot where i inserted the bullet camera inside the spoiler, seating the lense in the hole. the two flanges i secured using screws in the center post indentation area (you can see the tiny hole in the pic), screws went in a "V" shape and heads of screws are in the recessed area holding camera in place and the lens of the camera actually sits on the lip of the hole so it doesn't move at all. I had to cut a hole on each side of the center so i could hold the camera in position with my fingers, the size of the hole was just big enough to slide the camera inside. When i finished I covered the holes with 2 sided tape strips. I fed the camera wire out thru a hole in another recessed spot about 5 inches to the right of center, I did have to drill 1 hole in the trunklid under the spoiler to feed the wire into the trunk area, but considering it had 3 holes already for the other clips, 1 new hole wasn't a major amount of work. I installed an SRT8 spoiler mainly because i did not want to drill thru the stock original spoiler, plus i wanted a black spoiler anyway, and the srt8 matches the side stripes perfectly as well as the TA scoop on the hood which is a satin black color as well. (used Organisol paint on TA scoop)


wire feeds into trunklid and along the factory wiring harness, which i just fed the wire inside the factory harness cover and added zip ties to keep the wire inside, it comes out under the rear deck behind the carpet along the metal framing area behind the rear seat, i had to remove the seat to access a hole in the factory frame so no drilling was required, once thru the back seat support, in runs under the bottom seat cushion to the side, up under the side panel to the right side then to the door sills, then to right side footwell plastic piece, and up to glovebox. All the wiring is inside the car protected from the elements. The camera lens is the only visible part, i do not worry about anyone unscrewing the camera and stealing it, they'd have to remove the entire spoiler to get to it. And that is a bit too much trouble for a 79.00 camera. I prefer the visibility a little higher than the license plate area, it has great side visibility so i see cars passing from behind, when they move out of view of the camera, by then i can see them in my side vision without even turning my head. The lockpick allows me to use the camera in forward motion all the time, should i want to, even while listening to the radio, and it automatically turns on when put the car into reverse. I disabled the distance markers, basically if it looks like you are getting close...you are only inches away from the object, far closer than i would normally get when backing up anyway.

Hardest part of entire job was getting old spoiler off the car, took longer for that than anything else. Mounting the bullet camera was fairly easy, i used a drill bit slightly smaller than the diameter of the lens, then used a honing stone (looks like a pyramid in shape) on a drill to sand it out until it was large enough to fit only the front part of the lens thru, not the fattest part of the camera body, when you start getting close, you test fit it several times till its just right, go too far and the camera would stick out too far and be more visible than i wanted.
 

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Here is a shot of the camera i used inside the spoiler.
 

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Thanks loads for the write up. That is exactly what I thought, but I really didn't think anyone would have the guts to do something like this. Now that I know you used a black spoiler, it makes much more sense. And the fact that you got yourself another spoiler to work on in case the whole project went sour. After I just installed my spoiler on my SE, I don't think I will be taking it off any too soon.

You still have the original spoiler in case you want to go back. Might be hard to sell it since anyone with a DY R/T already has one. Hey, how about a black SE owner putting it on and turning their car into a Super Bee? LOL Yellow Super Bee stripes over the back end? Yellow hockey decals?

Anyway, good job. You make us envious who don't want to attempt this project.
 

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didn't intend to sell the original spoiler in any case, long since learned to keep everything i've taken off of a car in case they go up in value decades later, tossed a engine block on my 69 charger r/t when i was 21, wish i had it now...would add 8k or more to the value of the car i still own 33 years later.

When i first started, i wasn't sure if there would be room inside the spoiler for a camera, and hacking into the original didn't sound kosher to me so i bought one from takeoffparts to "experiment" with, the srt8 spoiler is slightly taller than the original so it also gives a little more room to work with inside.

Also, when i first ordered the camera, the license tag version was sold out so i was kind of forced to think outside the box. One note, it pays to hook up the camera before you mount it once to make sure orientation is correct, in my case it was mounted with the arm/brackets downward, not sure if i had to spin it inside the mount prior to mounting inside.

Oh, as a side comment, what i did pretty much anyone could do, I'm usually pretty lazy when it comes to working on my dd car, taking it to a shop for most work to be done, I figured removing the spoiler and bolting on another wouldn't be that hard, getting bolts off was simple, getting thru double edged tape was a bit more challenging, helped to have some plastic trim tools to use. Finding dead center was easy, there is a middle clip, and i used a piece of 3/4 inch masking tape wrapped around the center point so i knew where to drill the hole, used the largest normal drill bit in a set and drilled it in the center, then used a cone shaped stone (looked like a sharpening stone) to sand out the diameter to match the lens. Just had to be patient and not bear down too hard with the cone stone, it would eat thru plastic pretty fast.
 

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Well, I bought the Boyo TL375 integrated into the license plate frame and I have thinking how to mount it. I can't remember if there was another thread somewhere stating how they did it. There are bolts going in from the front and the bolts are long enough to thing that I should drill holes behind the plate and secure it to the bumper. Looks like I would have to drop the valance to get at the back of the bumper. Uhg.
 
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