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The Pork Wagon (‘14 Cop Charger)
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
NAG1 conductor plate replacement

Anyone done this? I'm wondering what led them to decide it was necessary...my trans is starting to shift funny in the mid gears, and not funny haha either. I'm hoping indecisive shifts in the mid-gears is precisely what this sort of thing fixes...
 

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Nuke - are you getting and MIL / codes?

The other thing to do would be to hook up a wiTech system to seem what the adaptive values are to determine what's out of whack.

And how many miles? It might be a matter of clutches could be worn and things aren't holding like it should be. The tranny has a range of adaptives to keep things in the parameters it wants to run within...

Another possibility is have a trans shop (that works on Euro makes) scan to see what values or "soft faults" might be stored.

There's the following things that can affect the A5 [NAG1 / WA580A] transmission:
>clutches (worn, damaged)
>solenoids
>valve body
>conductor plate
>TCM
>wire harness (if there's fluid leak / contamination)

These are also sensitive to over or under fill conditions as well
 

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The Pork Wagon (‘14 Cop Charger)
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Discussion Starter #3
Haven't checked for any trans codes yet, but no MILs definitely. And honestly not certain the shifting is all that extraordinary. But a lingering doubt about not changing out the conductor plate (and that beer bottle sized hootus you're supposed to change when u do the conductor plate) back when i did the fluid and filter at 100K may have my imagination acting up.
 

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2013 RT Classic
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You should replace the electrical connection basically every time you drop the pan. They are inexpensive and are prone to leaking. If it leaks it can oil soak the connections and cause issues and damage to the TCU. It is also pretty normal to replace the circuit board at 100K. It's horizontal orientation tends to accumulate sediment and that can cause issues. I doubt that it is causing problems because they most often are much more than a vague feeling of an issue a bad board can cause the transmission to not shift, etc.
 
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The Pork Wagon (‘14 Cop Charger)
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Discussion Starter #5
You should replace the electrical connection basically every time you drop the pan. They are inexpensive and are prone to leaking. If it leaks it can oil soak the connections and cause issues and damage to the TCU. It is also pretty normal to replace the circuit board at 100K. It's horizontal orientation tends to accumulate sediment and that can cause issues. I doubt that it is causing problems because they most often are much more than a vague feeling of an issue a bad board can cause the transmission to not shift, etc.
Oh, NOW you tell me...where were you when I was still elbow deep in the bowls of my transmission and could have done this without having to drop the pan again?! :wink3:

Okay, I'll admit to being aware of the recommendation to do that board and the side plug when you do the first 100K fluid and filter maintenance, but I decided against it for reasons which I cannot reveal due to their highly top secret nature. I didn't do it, and now I should make a plan to drop the pan and get it done once and for all. I'm fine with that, I've been struggling lately to manufacture excuses to do something with the car anyway, it will be nice to finally have a good reason to take pars off and get soiled with some form of used oil or fluid.

Coincidently enough, I replaced 3 qts of the transmission fluid with new stuff this very morning, and although i had already planned on repeating that process a couple more times over the next week to get as much of the old out as possible, I am escalating that plan to take place over the next 2 days after seeing the condition if the fluid i pulled out. It's only been in there for a little over 10K miles (maybe 13K, will have to check my maint notes), but it looks like the factory fill i pulled out back at 100K.

I've attached a couple pics of the old stuff and some fresh stuff for reference (sorry about the 90 degree tilt). The color difference is striking for sure, but the pics where I have an LED light shining through the other side are the most telling I believe.




Fresh fluid; no flashlight:
http://www.challengertalk.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=857577&stc=1&d=1509934532


Fresh fluid; flashlight thru back:
http://www.challengertalk.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=857569&stc=1&d=1509934532


Used fluid; no flashlight (but some camera flash):
http://www.challengertalk.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=857585&stc=1&d=1509934532


Used fluid; flashlight thru the back:
http://www.challengertalk.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=857593&stc=1&d=1509934532


That last one is a little disconcerting... :surprise:
 

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2013 RT Classic
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It looks like you have a handle on things LOL. My daily driver a 2000 MB E320 (It is amazing how cheap they are when they get a few years old) has the same transmission as you and I have (W580, 722, NAG1..... take your pick of names ) and the dealer just did a transmission oil change (in for a intermittent engine computer issue.. that has not returned) the pan was leaking and it had a low oil level 100K miles and original fluid. It was a very dirty color and all they did was oil and filter change, no flush. That oil is darn expensive, I think you will be fine.

A simple oil change would be nice for my Challenger, 2013, 5.7 auto, blown, ... not quite stock power. I had a hard 1st to 2nd high RPM shift a few weeks ago. Damaged the pump. I have a very good transmission shop already on line, they are racers themselves and know how to build to handle the power. Depending upon the power level I build to, $4500 to $5500. The car still runs and drives but the pump wines when cold, quiet when warm. Just took "most muscle" trophy last Sat at a local show.

Good luck with the service, you will be fine!
 
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The Pork Wagon (‘14 Cop Charger)
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Discussion Starter #7
2nd d&f looks better, but I'm going to do 4 total instead of 3 now. That will leave me with 93% fresh fluid according to my calculations
 

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The Pork Wagon (‘14 Cop Charger)
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Discussion Starter #8
3rd drain and fill (of 4!)

3rd drain and fill's old fluid didn't look much different from 2nd one's, but i can see the flashlight thru on the other side a little better...
 

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Haven't checked for any trans codes yet, but no MILs definitely. And honestly not certain the shifting is all that extraordinary. But a lingering doubt about not changing out the conductor plate (and that beer bottle sized hootus you're supposed to change when u do the conductor plate) back when i did the fluid and filter at 100K may have my imagination acting up.
Did you change your conduct plate?
 
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