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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Looking at these two Scat options, the only (not talking parts quality) physical difference between the two suspension set-ups I can find is the wheel size & offset. I like the stock-optional "Warp Speed" rims and I like the staggered look. If I swapped the front rims on a WBSP down to the Std.body size ([email protected] down to [email protected]) would there be detrimental effects I'm not considering? Obviously 305>275 & tire width= traction. Then there's fender construction & cosmetic costs. The Offset Calculator puts the inner sidewall clearance @ reasonable vs stock so my guess is there's no parts clearance or rubbing issue concerns.

I'm more wondering about doing something hinky to general & spirited-twisties drivability. Like I've heard of steering geometry, generally know what it is, but only recently happened to learn that it could be messed up by lowering too much. Not that I'm planning to go super low, but since the SPWB has a unique "Competition Tuned Suspension," is the steering geometry dependent on the wide tire placement? Or is the actual offset & rubber width largely irrelevant to the geometry math because it's based on the {spindle? whatever the lugs come out of} location; which seems to be consistent throughout all the Challenger trims?

Most of my questions are/have been researchable, couldn't find this though. Found lots of folks going Std. up to Wide but not from Wide down to Std. Has this been done and I missed it with problems/no problems? I'd really hate to bone something important because of a cosmetic choice.
 

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...and fenders...


A Guy
 

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Those are widebody fenders/quarters in the pictures. if you remove the flares, that's what you'll see. You'd have to change all that to narrow body parts. You'd be better served getting a narrow body, adding some wider wheels and doing the suspension for handling. To get a Widebody, and remove the majority of what you pay extra for on a widebody, doesn't make any sense IMHO

A Guy
 

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Essentially, yes.
Replace 2 1/4 panels, replace 2 outer wheelhouses, replace 2 fenders, replace front and rear bumper covers.

Those are just the big parts, now add all the support parts, fender liners, brackets, grill and a laundry list of other parts.

You are also talking about disassembling the car for a complete repaint except for the roof.

Should be about $30,000 at any shop.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Replace 2 1/4 panels, replace 2 outer wheelhouses, replace 2 fenders
Not sure on the distinction between "fender" and "1/4 panel?" I've always used the terms interchangeably.
Otherwise the body needs of this idea are rolled into some other things, i.e. rear bumper cover was already going to be replaced to accommodate altered tail lights, adding Cuda Gills to the front {1/4 panel/fenders?} and any other body mods require paint etc... those kinds of needs are fairly easy to anticipate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Why not just trade it for a Narrow Body?
Don't have, going to buy. Seems to me: buying a standard Scat then modding both the body & suspension would be more expensive than buying a WB Scat and modding the body - especially given that I'd be paying labor to mod the suspension, yeah?

edit: Not that I "need" the best track suspension, but given the relative costs of an optioned Scat vs an optioned WB Scat; add a general preference for staggered aesthetics, properly flared fenders and spirited driving out in the boonies... not really seeing the std Scat as my best starting point.
 

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Fenders are in front, and can easily be removed. Quarter panels are part of the body, and you need to cut them to remove them.
 

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Not sure on the distinction between "fender" and "1/4 panel?" I've always used the terms interchangeably.
Otherwise the body needs of this idea are rolled into some other things, i.e. rear bumper cover was already going to be replaced to accommodate altered tail lights, adding Cuda Gills to the front {1/4 panel/fenders?} and any other body mods require paint etc... those kinds of needs are fairly easy to anticipate.
1/4 panels is what's rearward of the door, fender is forward of the door. The custom additions you are suggesting will increase the cost.
 

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Still makes no sense wanting a wider suspension on a narrow body the Center of the Gravity is most effective for the car it was designed for.
If your doing it only to get a Mr. Norms Cuda kit then sell the Wide Body and Get a Normal install the kit and get replica tires and update the Suspension
componets will be cheaper and not destroy the car's value ...
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Not that I don't appreciate all the quick replies, but... I'm well aware of the costs as they're part of/rolled into some other cosmetic plans, and also not what I was asking about in the op...

Imagine I had no care for appearances, two flat front tires, refused to move the rear tires forward and simply swapped the front [email protected] offset with 305s to a pair of [email protected] with 275s. Would it steer funny or be harsh on the mechanics in some way? Or suffer nothing beyond the loss of 30mm front tire width?

And thanks for the 1/4 vs fender clarification. (So why is it cars have four fender flares and no quarter panel flares? /rhetorical)
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Perhaps this is a better way to put it: I generally like the look of flared fenders, I just don't like how Dodge did them. I also like the look of staggered tires. Starting with a SPWB, the end result of my project will have (among other cosmetic alterations) four flared out fenders (1/4s whatever) instead of four tacked-on flare like things. Liking the factory optional "Warp Speed" style rims, I'd like to use the 20x11s in back & the 20x9 up front. Being aware of the body work needed to accommodate this idea, I'm asking about the potential mechanical ramifications?
 
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