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Discussion Starter #1
I got my car back yesterday from a performance shop that was fixing my fuel system problem. They had my car for about a month and fixed the fuel system problem by switching out the fuel hat and new fuel lines. They also did an oil change for me while it was there. They didn't touch anything electrical. On the drive home I noticed that my blinkers didn't work, my horn doesn't work, my side mirrors won't adjust, and my ESP isn't working. Also, on start up no it says 'Check TPM system' and all the warning lights are on.

I called the performance shop and I'm sure they will be able to fix it, but I don't want to have to drive all the way down there again if I can fix it myself. Any ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That's what I'm thinking, but don't want to start pulling fuses until I talk to someone who knows what they're doing because I don't when it comes to electrical.
 

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Check you fuse box in the trunk. See if ya have anything out of the norm. They might have removed a fuse to do the fuel hat install.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I just checked the fuse box in the trunk and nothing looked out of the norm as far as I can tell. But I'm not sure which are supposed to be missing. When I checked the fuse box under the hood the box itself was loose from them lifting it up to run the fuel line underneath it to the pressure gauge. The fuses themselves looked fine. Is there supposed to be one empty spot in that box?
 

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Check your manual to see which fuse covers your trouble? It's a fuse most likely.
 

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Check the Battery also maybe they didn't get all the wires back on or it could have a loose ground. Grounds will make all sorts of sh1t go hay wire.
 

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I seriously doubt it's a fuse or battery. A single fuse does not share all those systems (horn, turn signal, TPMS, ESP, etc). Also, you only need the battery to start the car, once started, the alternator takes over.
 

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I seriously doubt it's a fuse or battery. Also, you only need the battery to start the car, once started, the alternator takes over.
Not the case.
Electrical issues are hard to track. Gotta check the easy stuff first. It don't take much so what's he out 25 seconds.
 

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..... Also, you only need the battery to start the car, once started, the alternator takes over.
Try unplugging you battery once your car is running. Unless things have changed with new cars, you break the circuit and thus, no power. That being said, it may not be a loose battery if all the other systems seem to be happy (radio, etc.).

This seems to be a weird case. If a computer fuse blew, the other systems may not work just because they may also take input from the computer. Also check grounds. If the electronics share grounds and it is unplugged or broken, then the electronics can't get power.

lastly, check wires that indicate acc. mode or ignition mode. If those were damaged then the systems may not think the car is even on.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Check your manual to see which fuse covers your trouble? It's a fuse most likely.
I don't have my manual with me. I left it at work when I was trying to fix my original fuel problem.


I checked the battery and it is good to go. All wires are back on and tight including the ground.
 

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What's not the case? Start your car, disconnect the battery (ground or positive) and see what happens. It will still be running.

I do agree it could be a ground somewhere else though.

I don't have my service manual handy, but I would look at the schematic diagrams to see if the inoperative systems share the same plug, perhaps in the TIPM. You can tilt the TIPM to get a good look underneath.
 

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Not the case. Electrical issues are hard to track. Gotta check the easy stuff first. It don't take much so what's he out 25 seconds.
^^^^^^^ this is the best advice. Always try the easy stuff. Then move on.
 

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What's not the case? Start your car, disconnect the battery (ground or positive) and see what happens. It will still be running
Then I guess that they changed things. I'm not going to try but I have a story. When I installed some gauges in my 300zx, I unplugged the battery. When I plugged the battery back in I didn't tighten it all they way and went driving and the plug started bouncing off the terminal of the battery making the car cut out intermittently. (radio, engine, the lot) thank god I kept some basic tools with me or it would have been a very unpleasant drive home.--but that car is from the late 80's, so things might have changed.[edit]
 

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What's not the case? Start your car, disconnect the battery (ground or positive) and see what happens. It will still be running.

QUOTE]
Yes it will run, the ecm's on these cars are kinda picky on the voltages. Both the trans and the engine. It takes the complete system to make them function correctly. There not like the old stuff.
 

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Then I guess that they changed things. I'm not going to try but I have a story. When I installed some gauges in my 300zx, I unplugged the battery. When I plugged the battery back in I didn't tighten it all they way and went driving and the plug started bouncing off the terminal of the battery making the car cut out intermittently. (radio, engine, the lot) thank god I kept some basic tools with me or it would have been a very unpleasant drive home.
That's probably because your alternator was putting out max voltage when the terminal came loose since the voltage regulator was intermittently sensing voltage then no voltage, which introduced power spikes into the electrical circuits. It's OK to run the car without a battery, but DO NOT attempt to reconnect the positive terminal when the car is running.
 

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What's not the case? Start your car, disconnect the battery (ground or positive) and see what happens. It will still be running.

Yes it will run, the ecm's on these cars are kinda picky on the voltages. Both the trans and the engine. It takes the complete system to make them function correctly. There not like the old stuff.
Agree, the CAN-bus is very sensitive to power fluctuations.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Still no luck. Just took it around the block and still no blinkers, horn, ESP, and my EVIC is stuck on the Tire PSI screen. It shows a picture of the car and just a double dash next to each tire with no read out. The low tire warning light is on, the ESP BAS light is on, and the no ESP (car skidding out) light is on.
 

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Well, I probably should not even be 'jumping in here' since I'm not even a mechanic and even more have not got a clue when it comes to modification, which you sure have a bunch of: and am not an electrical engineer... so please forgive me in advance [and if I might be a bit harsh] !!! Ok, I mean, you do have quite a bit of mods so I'm wondering if any of those are problematic ? Also , when you say the guys didn't touch anything electrical; my basic reply is,' Well, it sounds like you were not there 100% of the time; so how can you be sure ? Now I'm wondering since you're in So.Cal and the temps now are somewhat temperate : if say a little creature i.e a mouse/chipmunk could have "nested" somewhere in your Challenger [assuming it's been outside during this one month hiatus from your possession !!!Ok, now since it's only an '09, can you not take it to where you bought it assumming again from your local DODGE dealer ; or if not because you have more mods than a DODGE dealer would say be out of Warranty Range ??? Oh y-ahhh, now I'm wondering why these "trouble shooting" devices cannot be hooked up and determined instantly where the problem or source is ?:scratchhead:? Oh, yeah, one more item... I'm just wondering with such a new car, why would the fuel lines have to be changed. Even if say bad fuel or somehow particulates entered the fuel line while all these modifications were applied...couldn't the line be blown out instead ???Anyways, I hope you determine just what the heck is going on !!!:)
 

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I would disconnect the battery... let it sit for a few minutes, and then reconnect. This may clear the gremlins..... If it doesn't, then you are at square 1 with little harm done.
 
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