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I've read the cam swap threads on here and other forums until I'm blue in the face. Now I'm in the middle of it and wishing I had someone with experience aiding me. If anyone lives in Oklahoma or near Stillwater, Ok and has previously done a cam swap successfully, I would be willing to pay fuel cost and some amount of payment for help. I already have everything done until the point of removing the timing sprocket and old cam.

Thanks
 

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A few tips:

*rocker shafts removed? this will take the pressure off the lifters and pull the push rods.

*spin the cam a few revolutions to knock the lifters up their bores. They're nearly horizontal and will remain there while removing/installing the cam.

*with the combo a/c condenser-p/s cooler lowered, you'll have the room to remove the cam (I didn't have to remove the facia or grille to do this)

*you'll remove the sprocket and have the 4 cam thrust plate torx screws that must be removed

*when pulling the cam, go gently and you'll have to lift/lower/balance while pulling (turning the cam slightly while doing this helps) to balance the cam as the journals clear the bearings. You don't want to yank or jerk the cam out and nick the bearings...

*installing the cam is the same idea - balancing the weight, holding it straight and guiding it in carefully. I put the cam bolt in for the last part to provide leverage to get the last bit in. Install the thrust plate and torque those screws down. [use assembly lube on the cam]

*timing marks: (oil pump must be removed to see the crank sprocket mark)
-cam sprocket mark is 12:00 o'clock
-crank sprocket (small dimple) is 6:00 o'clock
-crank keyway will be @ 2:00 o'clock

Install the timing chain with the double marks aligned on the cam sprocket, the single mark on the crank mark. Having the TC guide installed helps take up some of the slack. Install the tensioner but don't deploy it yet...

Once you have the chain installed on the marks, deploy the tensioner to keep the chain tight...rotate the engine (one plug removed or loosened to relieve compression in each cylinder) and make sure the cam mark and crank mark stay aligned (the chain marks won't line up anymore...they're provided to get the chain and teeth lined up for assembly). I rotated the engine a couple of times to double check all was good. Since the rocker shafts aren't installed, no risk of valve-piston contact if the cam/crank timing isn't correct...if you have to re-set the timing, this is the chance to get it correct...

-To make it easier to install the oil pump:
I used plastic zip ties pulled really tight to keep the chain taut in the mid-section...removed the tensioner to gain room to rotate the oil pump and re-install the pickup tube and bolt. Compress the tensioner and re-install the retainer pin.

Rotate the the pump and bolt it into place. Then install the tensioner and re-deploy it by pulling the retainer pin. You can then cut and remove the zip ties that held the chain taut in place.

Double check the push rods are seated into the lifters. Then, make sure they're seated into the rocker arm sockets as you start tightening the rocker shafts down.

Reinstalling the rocker shafts - go step by step and torque the hold-down bolts in steps. You'll find which valves are open/opening by which bolts get snug sooner than others. This will help prevent bending the rocker shafts.
I also rotated the engine after installing the rocker shafts to make sure everything looked good before putting rocker covers back on...

Hope this guide helps - I'd never done a cam swap before and went carefully and used common sense approach and all went well.
I've done 4 cam engine timing belts, so some of this was familiar territory.
 
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Mark,

Here's some shots of my heads for reference for the pushrod layout:
Shorter pushrods = Intake
Longer pushrods = Exhaust




 

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09 RT Challenger auto
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I see your in a bind some. Well, I probally can help you. Im in Northwest Arkansas. Dont know how far your are Ill take a look. Im at Tulsa dragway alot. Its 1.5hr from me. Ill shoot you a PM with my number and we can see whats up.
Not in the business of auto repair, but I do my own work and have a matchine shop that a friend owns I use as a play ground. I dont mind helping a forum member.
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