[zxrider11]

For what its worth, I purchased my 2010 RT with 27J package, sunroof and 6M for $28,950 back on Jan 31st. MSRP was $35,335.

I got the following rebates & discounts:

$2,000 Rebate
$1,500 Six speed manual transmission rebate
$500 Autoshow discount
$2,385 additional discount from dealer

 

[noz34me]

To answer your question, yes there is a difference in rebates and incentives depending on your zip code/sales region you live in.

There are also stipulations on other rebates, such as military, previous lease/ownership, etc.

 

[Whiter]

I'm kinda looking for a 2011 but if a 2010 came along that I liked at the right price, I would probably buy it so I have been searching on a daily basis through Dodge's web site. What gets me is, there is no consistency to the discounts. Some dealerships will offer $6,000 off sticker and others will offer $2,300 while still others will offer nothing. Also, I don't understand why the discounts/rebates would be greater in January then they are in March for left over 2010 models?!? That is the game that people hate playing and what makes buying a car painful. Be honest, post your bottom line number then you'll sell your car. While I'm on a rant, don't you hate when the dealership says to send them an email about buying a car then then don't respond? Crazy. I guess they have all the money and sales they need.

<end rant>

Whiter

 

[BlackberryHemi]

Check the prices between 2010 on Dodge's website. I have a 2011 Classic on order and the MSRP is $34K. The 2010 car with the same equipment prices out to $38K. There is a $2K rebate on the 2010 and a $1K rebate on the 2011. All in all the price for the 2011 is $3K less. I also got about $2K off MSRP on my 2011. With all the improvements in the 2011, steering wheel, suspension, etc. it was an easy decision for me.

I ordered a 6 spd manual in 2010 it cost $995, in 2011 it is included.
If you are getting an auto it was included in 2010 and cost $995 in 2011, so if you are looking for an Auto car the 2010 may be the better deal.

 

[Lonestar]

As noted, different regions have different promotions and they are usually based on the sales in that region. If a vehicle is doing well in region 1 then rebates, discounts, and etc. will be light to none. If the same vehicle is moving slowly in Region 2 then deeper discounts can apply and etc.

Constants are MSRP, Supplier Pricing. Invoice Price, and Employee Pricing. These are set prices and each dealerships has them and it is VIN specific. So, in the dealership's paper work they have the MSRP, Supplier Pricing, "Invoice" Price, and Employee Price. The prices are in that order by the way with MSRP being the highest and Employee Pricing being the lowest. Special interest rates, rebates, special lease rates, dealer discounts, may or may not apply and residency restrictions may or may not apply . It is an ever changing situation.

Added to the confusion are dealer floor plans, hold backs, incentives by the manufacture of specific models that change frequently, commissions lending institutions award the dealerships for loans, on and on.

Two of the best kept secrets in the world are 1) the actual cost to the manufacture to make a specific vehicle, and 2) the cost the dealer actually pays for the vehicle after it is all said and done.


We purchase a vehicle once every X period of time. Dealerships sell vehicles X times a day. They are better at it than we are no matter how good of a deal you think you got.

I have a friend who is a Sales Manager at a fairly large Ford / Lincoln store in my area. I have purchase vehicles from him and as good of deals as I think I got, and I think I have got some pretty good ones, he always lets me know that the dealership made money on me. That only makes sense for if they did not make a profit then they would not be in business for long.

Do the best deal you can and if it good for you then go for it... if it is not, wait.

 

[noz34me]

There are 2 people with jobs during a sale:

1. You, the customer. Your job is to do your homework, shop around, and make sure the dealer makes as little money as possible on you.
2. The sales people. Their job is to separate you from as much of your money as possible. This includes any other personnel involved in the sale that want to sell you afermarket coatings, cleanings, warranties, etc. Just say no to these people. Extended warranties are just as cheap up to 12 months/12k miles as they are the day you purchase the car. Anything else they tell you is b.s.

Lastly, be prepared to walk away at any time before you sign. That includes while you're sitting at the desk with the paperwork in front of you. Trust me, if something doesn't feel right while you're all excited about this new car, it's going to feel like hell the next week.

 

[Thingfish]

if something doesn't feel right while you're all excited about this new car, it's going to feel like hell the next week.

Ain't that the truth.... I should liminate that carry it in my wallet.

 

[724tim]

I've been wanting an RT Classic for a couple years now and I've been keeping tabs on the pricing. Last week I saw a new 2010 RT Classic with a $39k sticker priced at $30.5k on a dealers website. When I called about it, the salesman said it was already in financing but he could find another RT with the same specs. He also said that since I lived in a different region, the pricing was different due to dealer incentives and quoted me $33k. So I called a local dealer and he gave me the same $33k price on the same car that he would bring in for me.

First question, is there really that much difference in dealer incentives and regions to swing the price $2k-$3k?

Second question, I got a call from a friend last night who said he can get me at least friends and family discount, and possibly employee pricing. How does that pricing work using the sticker price or invoice price? I'm trying to figure out the pricing, rebates, incentives, etc. so I know if I'm getting a good deal or if the dealership is not telling me the full story.

Any info, insights and tips is greatly appreciated. Thanks.

John

here is a link to the best place that I've found for great deals if nothing else use them to bargin with your dealer on price also if you send them an email the price is around another $1000 off.
Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep, Ram dealer DARCARS Chrysler Jeep Dodge of Silver Spring located in Silver Spring MD

 

[aj373ku]

I'm kinda looking for a 2011 but if a 2010 came along that I liked at the right price, I would probably buy it so I have been searching on a daily basis through Dodge's web site. What gets me is, there is no consistency to the discounts. Some dealerships will offer $6,000 off sticker and others will offer $2,300 while still others will offer nothing. Also, I don't understand why the discounts/rebates would be greater in January then they are in March for left over 2010 models?!? That is the game that people hate playing and what makes buying a car painful. Be honest, post your bottom line number then you'll sell your car. While I'm on a rant, don't you hate when the dealership says to send them an email about buying a car then then don't respond? Crazy. I guess they have all the money and sales they need.

<end rant>

Whiter

The Stealerships sole purpose is to make money. Never forget that.

 

[Johnnyryche]

Thanks for all the comments and tips. Sounds like it all comes down to negotiating skills and being able to work out a deal that I can live with. Just curious if there is a way to find out the Employee Price if it is VIN specific. Any thoughts or helpful hints on this?

Constants are MSRP, Supplier Pricing. Invoice Price, and Employee Pricing. These are set prices and each dealerships has them and it is VIN specific. So, in the dealership's paper work they have the MSRP, Supplier Pricing, "Invoice" Price, and Employee Price.