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2013 Dodge Challenger R/T
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ported 12” KickerL7R [email protected]
KenwoodKAC-5001PS [email protected]
Stock head unit.
Rca convertor.
All wires have jackets, terminals, and heat shrink.
All coated copper terminals scratch tested.
Power to trunk battery terminal.
Ground to same bolt as battery.
Remote wire fuse tapped to cigar lighter fuse moved down to ignition slot. It pulls .3v when car is off, I thought it was supposed to be 0 but amp doesn’t turn on and bat doesn’t die so no biggie.
Gain set to 20v to subwoofer with 36hz tone. That should be around 300w drawing 20 amps 25 tops.
I noticed lights flicker when bass hits at night (brights were off).
On a forum I found, someone said the factory alt to bat wire has a small 2-3ft section in the middle of car that is only 8 gauge between two 2 gauge wires possibly restricting enough flow to cause dimming.
Does anyone know if that is true? Will upgrading the 8 to 2 gauge help? Assuming dodge used an 8 gauge there for a reason, could upgrading it cause issues since your decreasing resistance?

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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I can tell you my first suspect in your scenario, based on my own experience with these cars, would be the ground wire from the chassis point to the battery negative post.

It is only #6 or so, and it has to carry all of the current going out to the car plus the new current going out to your amp(s). It’s sufficient for the car’s electricity to return to the battery, but adding in the amp(s) electricity is a bridge too far.

You can upgrade that ground wire to a #4 cable, or (what I have done in both my Chargers now) you can augment it with another cable as large or larger. I grabbed a #6 battery cable from my local Walmart in the automotive battery section. It’s meant for lawnmowers, but it doesn’t mind being put to work on a car battery...and if it does, screw it, I’m the boss, what I say, goes in my car!

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To confirm that is the problem, you could connect your amp ground wire(s) directly to the negative battery terminal temporarily and see if you still get the dimming. If so, they you know it's the wire between the main factory grounding bolt you were using and the battery negative terminal, as Nuke suggested.

Personally, I just connected everything directly to the battery - power and ground. Supposedly, that could cause issues with power going through your amp instead of the grounding bolt if that main grounding wire between the negative battery terminal and the stock grounding bolt gets disconnected somehow. However, I've also seen a lot of car audio folks say that it's the "cleanest" way to connect things as well ("cleanest" meaning the least chance for noise).... Even if true, the chances of that wire becoming disconnected "by accident" is so slim, that I'm not worried about it. I've had all of my car audio gear connected that way since day one - and it seems that a lot of people do it with FCA vehciles.

But like I said, you can just connect it that way temporarily to see if that short ground cable is the problem or not.
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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My neighbor’s pool guy has a step-daughter who’s lesbian friend used to date a girl whose father was an explosives expert in the army for a while, and ironically enough he was killed one night when his car blew up sitting at an intersection waiting on the light to turn green.

Now, they could never prove it, but I heard that the cops suspected he was dealing in black market explosives he stole while still in the army.

But if you ask me, it was because he had all of his car audio amps grounded straight to the battery negative post.

So, you know, you can do that if you want, but keep in mind you could perish in a fiery ball of flames and jagged metal if you do. 🤔
 
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My neighbor’s pool guy has a step-daughter who’s lesbian friend used to date a girl whose father was an explosives expert in the army for a while, and ironically enough he was killed one night when his car blew up sitting at an intersection waiting on the light to turn green.

Now, they could never prove it, but I heard that the cops suspected he was dealing in black market explosives he stole while still in the army.

But if you ask me, it was because he had all of his car audio amps grounded straight to the battery negative post.

So, you know, you can do that if you want, but keep in mind you could perish in a fiery ball of flames and jagged metal if you do.
Well damn! Now THAT is a mouth fill! Let me see if I got this right - it was a "neighbors pool-guys' step-daughters' lesbian-friends' girlfriends father"? Somehow, I don't think I got my apostrophes right there... :)

EDIT: If you want to get a headache - here is a 4-page thread of "car audio people" arguing about this exact subject (there are actually quite a few of these threads). When I was getting ready to install my system, I remember searching and reading these threads. I came out of even more unsure than I was before I started reading the threads. :)

Grounding amp at the battery - ok?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Wow, thanks for the quick reply! I only have 0,4, and 8 gauge CCA wires atm. I will move the amp ground to battery first and test. Then I will add an extra 4 gauge ground from battery to chassis. Any intel on the wire from alt to bat? I saved the picture from the post I saw about it being 8 gauge in between 2 gauge but haven’t been able to find anything else online.
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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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Wow, thanks for the quick reply! I only have 0,4, and 8 gauge CCA wires atm. I will move the amp ground to battery first and test. Then I will add an extra 4 gauge ground from battery to chassis. Any intel on the wire from alt to bat? I saved the picture from the post I saw about it being 8 gauge in between 2 gauge but haven’t been able to find anything else online. View attachment 1001896
The B+ wire from the alt is smaller than it needs to be, but it’s a gigantic pain to replace, hence why no one ever does it. I’d put it on the list, but move it down toward the bottom. Rule out everything else first, then upgrade it if you absolutely need to.
 
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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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Well damn! Now THAT is a mouth fill! Let me see if I got this right - it was a "neighbors pool-guys' step-daughters' lesbian-friends' girlfriends father"? Somehow, I don't think I got my apostrophes right there... :)

EDIT: If you want to get a headache - here is a 4-page thread of "car audio people" arguing about this exact subject (there are actually quite a few of these threads). When I was getting ready to install my system, I remember searching and reading these threads. I came out of even more unsure than I was before I started reading the threads. :)

Grounding amp at the battery - ok?
I’m just relating the facts as told to me by my barber’s mistress, who as it turns out, used to date this old gal whose step-father does the pool maintenance for my neighbor
 

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2008 Challenger SRT8 #1101. 2005 Dodge Magnum RT AWD
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Also, since no one else has mentioned it yet, a lot of times, capacitors can help with this exact situation.

If it is happening mainly with the louder, more forceful, Bass, you can add a capacitor which holds additional charge to supplement that instant power requirement that frequently is a cause for dragging down lights.

One of my previous vehicles I had a 15 inch Kicker sub mounted in and had only a half farad capacitor that worked nicely to counteract this issue.

The bottom of this page has some great explanations about how they work.
 
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2018 Scat Pack SHAKER in Plum Crazy- GONE :-(
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Also, since no one else has mentioned it yet, a lot of times, capacitors can help with this exact situation.
...
Yeah, that is where I'd start nowadays, well, if I cared to increase the thumpage in the trunk.
 
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Maybe I missed it but the factory 220 amp alternator is direct bolt in.


Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

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Your electrical system is to small for kicker thumping, you’ll need at least a 350amp alt and (4) 2400 kinetic batteries to correct 20 hit dims..that’s what fixed my issues when running a 10,000 watt Hifonics Maxximus amp
 
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