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2010 Challenger R/T Classic
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Discussion Starter #1
I have a '10 Challenger R/T with 5.7 and automatic trans. So, I'm looking at the possibility of doing a budget build in a few months, and this is what I'm thinking.

Long tube headers
*392 cam w/upgraded springs

Custom tune

Then later...
CAI
Throttle body
6.4 intake manifold


*I found Mopar performance valve springs that look like they would save me quite a bit of money. They're still rated for the same lift as the other performance springs, too. Mopar part #
P5160074. Does anyone have experience with those springs? And will I need anythings else, or can I use what's already on the engine for all the other small parts?


I've been back and forth on the 392 cam, but I think it would be the best option--especially if I end up getting a supercharger slapped on it in a couple years. I know the Comp Cams 270 or 274 offers more top end power, but it's about $1500 more expensive of a swap. Also trying to decide whether to have the CAI on the car already when I get a custom tune made or if it's even worth it.

Any input is more than welcome! Thanks.
 

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2014 SRT Core
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10,422 Posts
What are your goals? how fast do you want to go in the quarter mile? do you want to pick up a couple tenths or make a major improvement. I think it's best to figure out where you want to end up and then figure out the best way to get there, that way you will probably waste less money on the journey.



I took my 2010 R/T from a 13.6 car down to a 12.87 with mostly just simple bolt on's. I recommend getting a tuner if you don't have one, you can start with just a 93 octane tune while running good gas, firm up your shifts, increase your shift point and see a nice gain just from that. Eventually you may want to go with a custom tune or two, have one for daily driving that boosts power and maybe one to run with race gas for time at the track.



I also added a higher stall converter (FTI 3,200 stall speed in my case) this when used in conjunction with a Mopar TCM worked as a good combination. Without the mopar TCM I experienced a lot of slip which didn't make the around town driving that great of an experience. Added the Mopar TCM and I got good solid shifts right at 6,200 rpms (which improves the quarter mile time IMO) with out the slip effect of not having the TCM in there. From talking to some of the folks that went with the 2,800 stall converter they didn't need to add the MTCM, but I like the higher shift points so I'd probably recommend that anyway if doing a converter change. In fact I think the increased shift points and MTCM are most likely good for a tenth or more by itself.



Drag radials and good gas are a big help at the track as well. Shorty headers are good for some ponies and you can get used SRT exhaust manifold for fairly cheap that pretty much are equal in power gains to the aftermarket shorty's.


Anyway just a few ideas to pick up some power.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I think what I'd like to do for the time being is get as close to 13 seconds flat or faster in the 1/4 mile for less than $3000 (I'll be doing the work myself).
 

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I think what I'd like to do for the time being is get as close to 13 seconds flat or faster in the 1/4 mile for less than $3000 (I'll be doing the work myself).

Now of course track conditions, elevation, DA etc all play a part in this but I was able to get a 12.9 out of my old R/T with just tuner (and adjusting the 93 oct tune myself), 85mm TB (not sure how much that mod actually helped), CAI, cat back exhaust, drag radials and a dose of good race fuel. You can probably pick up a used diablo predator tuner for cheap at this point, same with a slightly used set of drag radials (that's what I did to start with) and go from there. I bought 17 x 9 Mustang Cobra replica rims (you can get them shipped to your door for about $125 each or buy used or step up to 17 x 9.5 racestars if you want to save some weight). Good drag radials for our cars (from my experience) are the M&H 275/50/17's and I also have a set of 305/45/17 M&T's. But for the R/T I'd probably go with the M&H's. Just the combination of tuner (with a good tune and race gas), CAI and drag radials should get you to knocking on the door, with a low 13's or better car depending on track and temps.


If you go with the Mustang Cobra replica rims you do have to make a minor adjustment to the hubs, mine were a bit tight so I had to open them up a bit. I took a sanding drum and a drill and worked it around the inside of the hub area test fitting on the car periodically until I had the fit I wanted. I used the Cobra wheels for probably around 200 plus passes and have now passed them on to a friend that uses them on his 740 plus rear wheel HP twin turbo car and they are still working great. All that said if you want to save some weight on the rims I'd go with the race star drag star series as they are fairly light and a lot less expensive then Weld wheels.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yea, I'm sure with a tune and drag radials I could get down into the low 13s, but I haven't taken it to the track yet to see what it would run right now, completely stock.

I'm also considering going to the Demon replica wheels. Do the 20x10.5" wheels fit in the rear? What's the widest tire size if so?
 

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I'm running the 20x10.5 Demon replica wheels on my 2010 R/T automatic. Tires are Mickey Thompson E.T Street SS. My only time out with them, I was cutting a 1.96 60' pretty consistently in garbage weather conditions. They tuck in pretty good but, it makes me want to lower the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'm running the 20x10.5 Demon replica wheels on my 2010 R/T automatic. Tires are Mickey Thompson E.T Street SS. My only time out with them, I was cutting a 1.96 60' pretty consistently in garbage weather conditions. They tuck in pretty good but, it makes me want to lower the car.
Which brand are those wheels?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Also, just an update, but I decided I'm gonna go with JBA shorty headers for now, and probably end up going with a catless mid pipe and aftermarket mufflers in the place of the stock resonators behind the axle. Also have an R2C CAI and tuner on the way. Bought everything used for a total of $375. (y)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I've also done a TON of research into cam options, and I think I'm gonna go with the new HRT Stage 2 cam by Comp Cams.
 
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